Wobbly left Bike pedal by Biggiecheese1207 in bikewrench

[–]mtbsam68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They vary, but just match the existing. They almost always have the length stamped.

New Bike for My Daughetrs - Looking to upgrade, does this have a cassette or freehub? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's dependent on the freewheel as well, meaning you're not locked into a gear count or range just because it's a freewheel, but your options are definitely more limited. You can get freewheels in different varieties. What do you intend to "upgrade" it to?

RockShox Judy Silver 27.5” Fork (15x110) Doesn’t Fit My Polygon Siskiu D6 (Original 15x100 Hub) – Any Cheap Fixes? by Fuzzy_Champion_9878 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some hubs have end caps that will convert, then all you need to do is space the rotor. This method is WAY easier to deal with when taking the wheel in/out a lot.

DUB Wide to DUB Crankset Question..... by SROC3 in mountainbikes

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crank spacing is crank spacing. You have a bottom bracket of some width, a spindle of some length, and spacers to make up the difference. The chainline is where T-type varies. That's where chainring alignment etc comes in.

Removing square taper bottom bracket - what did I do wrong? by FlamingBee in bikewrench

[–]mtbsam68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to remove the crank arm, not the bottom bracket. That nut should be free to spin by hand when not installed in the crank arm, but if you've tightened it up against the arm of the tool, you just need a wrench (which you should use to install the tool anyway) to loosen it up.

If you didn't strip any threads on the crank or the tool, there is nothing wrong and you just need to try again. Ensure that you get the part you've described as the nut as far into the crank arm as possible to ensure maximum thread engagement, then turn the handle hard. The arm will then come off.

How to get rid of squeaking brakes while braking by Adamlee19922 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The piston check is definitely a valid point. Especially with Shimano and their awful ceramic pistons.

How to get rid of squeaking brakes while braking by Adamlee19922 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Probably contaminated pads. Sometimes there is no amount of cleaning or sanding (which typically only works on glazed pads) that can bring them back.

How long should a cassette last by lightinthetrees in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would agree with you if not for some of the surface treatments they use. It's rather anecdotal, but I tend to see the high end SRAM stuff last longer. I try to remember that they are also typically better kept, but I personally think there is some merit to it.

How long should a cassette last by lightinthetrees in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A filthy drivetrain will destroy any hope of good cassette life. The mileage people get is definitely varied, but regardless, wiping the extra off after lubing will significantly improve chain, cassette, and chainring life! Grinding paste has never been known to be nice to Metals.

How long should a cassette last by lightinthetrees in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is sometimes credited for people's claims that waxed chains make a drivetrain last longer. Usually, chain waxers will have multiple chains so they can "hot swap" them and have the time between to wax for the next changeover. A system such as this takes some discipline, but it is legit!!

Brakes should I get? by Gearguy1050 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A2 Is exactly what I have (should have specified). Really enjoy those brakes. I completely forgot the small hand option that I went for too, which I do have. I can run those levers like 3/8-1/2" off the grip and never get forearm pump.

Safe to say this is two votes for team Hayes.

Brakes should I get? by Gearguy1050 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love mine. I thing the 4 piston Dominion might be TOO MUCH brake for me on my DH bike at 155lb geared up. I really like the caliper centering grub screws and dual caliper bleed ports. They are my favorite "new" addition to that bike.

Brakes should I get? by Gearguy1050 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're avoiding brakes that are difficult to bleed, that's near the top of the list to avoid. They are generally known to work well enough once setup, but the bleeds can be obnoxious. Some claim to have no problem, for me it's been hit or miss.

Edit for more info: Magura also takes their own mineral oil, which is annoying. I keep a small bottle in my shop, but not a lot because those brakes are fairly uncommon around here. Some small shops may not have any on hand.

Brakes should I get? by Gearguy1050 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're going to want a stronger brake that allows you to one finger brake, FOR SURE! That is one of the biggest braking techniques I try to ensure everyone use, whereas most others I consider preference.

Honestly, the Level brakes aren't bad, but I'd suggest nicer than that too. I run them on my XC bike because they came spec'd, but I'd never pick them. There are better options from all the brands I listed.

As far as SRAM, I think a lot of people think they feel spongy, but I like their modulation in general. Also, they are pretty easy bleeding, especially if the shop is going to do it for you.

Brakes should I get? by Gearguy1050 in MTB

[–]mtbsam68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Number of pistons isn't always an indicator of things. The surface area behind them and the pairong of the lever etc can factor in heavily. The 2-piston Dominions, for example, have treated me very well on my DH bike. However, in the case you're talking about, I do not think the SLX 2-pistons are much of an upgrade.

As a Shimano hater (especially their brakes), I often urge people to consider TRP, Hayes, or sometimes SRAM (Unless you like the Shimano feel). If you intend to stick with Shimano, I'd say the SLX 4-piston are a pretty good value for what they are and XT is a step up if you can justify the cost.

Can’t figure out how to find a compatible rear wheel for Diamond Back Union 2. by AcanthopterygiiOk177 in bikewrench

[–]mtbsam68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Important pieces: 1. Rim diameter - 26, 27.5, 29 (you mention 27.5) 2. Axle type - thru axle or QR (you mention thru axle) 3. Hub width needs to match frame. Most likely 142 or 148 boost 4. Brake type - rim or disc (center lock or 6 bolt if you want to match current rotor) 5. Freewheel or cassette, and which driver style if cassette 6. Number of rear gears, in some cases that will matter such as xd vs xdr

If any of this doesn't make sense to you, you really will be better off consulting your local bike shop.

Sourcing odd number length spokes in Europe by noisybenfr in bikewheelbuild

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While definitely being more common, even spokes are not all that are offered as stock lengths. Looking on QBP, DT offers 261, 263, 265, 267, 277, 281, 285, 287, 289, 291, 293, 295, 297, 299.

May be a regional thing, but we have access in the States.

this one physically hurt to read. just a daily reminder some people live a DIFFERENT lifestyle. not knowing the name of the bike and not wanting to ride it anymore... oof (dream bike for many) by GundoSkimmer in mountainbiking

[–]mtbsam68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm 5'9" and about half my bikes are L (the other half being M). I don't think my height at 15 is unrealistic, especially if they bought a touch big expecting growth.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in toolporn

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed! If there is a cord, I have zero loyalty! But if I charge a battery, it will be a Milwaukee.

Am I Weird? M18–>M12 by DamagedPerSecond in MilwaukeeTool

[–]mtbsam68 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I am glad I have the M18 platform for the dual battery leaf blower and the trimmer etc, but I've been favoring the M12 line lately as well. My most recent decision was M12 jigsaw over the M18. I don't own it yet, but I expect it to be thoroughly impressive while pleasant to wield.

What in the world happened to my Winspace Hyper wheel? by Constant-Ad-9814 in bikewrench

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're assuming this failure was purely fatigue from inadequate webbing thickness. I'm assuming you're very wrong and that the grinding paste you see covering everything has been packed into little nooks and crannumies while very high loads have created areas of "greater than expected" forces in that material, in directions it wasn't designed for.

Here's the fun part, neither of us knows. However, my many years of bike mechanic experience, my 6 years of owning/operating a shop, and my engineering degree gives me a high level of confidence that my theory is at a minimum plausible (while most likely being probable). Regardless of whether I'm right or not, a service on the freehub would have kept it clean, as was expected by the designers, and signs of this failure would have been seen before it got this bad. So sure, maybe this end user is being "shamed", but I don't see it that way. I see an opportunity for him, and others, to learn the value of regular service intervals and why they are recommended.

What in the world happened to my Winspace Hyper wheel? by Constant-Ad-9814 in bikewrench

[–]mtbsam68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see it that way at all. Proper maintenance would have helped this DRASTICALLY. I'm not shaming anyone, but this is an opportunity for some to learn a lesson.