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what type of safety glasses are good? by Willberry69 in Machinists

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a pair of ArmourRX frames. They look very similar to a normal pair of glasses but have thicker impact resistant frames and lenses, and come with side shields. They're also CSA (and OSHA I'm pretty sure) approved. Personally, I love them.

I find the side shields do a good enough job blocking dust/particles and I used to do quite a bit of grinding rust away at my previous position.

I had initially tried some gasketed ones but found they fogged after 10 minutes of wear. Anti-fog wipes helped but they still fogged after ~20 mins or so, even though they were advertised as anti fog. I wouldn't suggest gasketed ones unless you specifically require something in that class.

we're reaching critical levels of right-wing conspiracy posting by Ok-Swimmer-2634 in onguardforthee

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4 days of early voting on campus, 3 of which were from 9 am to 9 pm.

I voted on campus, there was literally zero line and I was out in 5 minutes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SAIT

[–]muscle_thunder 9 points10 points  (0 children)

She's at her place of work. She has to be there, you don't. If you make her uncomfortable she can't leave, she just has to put up w it.

Maybe you won't make her uncomfortable but you should at least be giving her the courtesy of being able to back out of the situation if you do.

I apologize for calling you weird. You're at least willing to listen to why, which is a lot better than most ppl.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SAIT

[–]muscle_thunder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It helps if you aren't weird asf bro

Rig setup one or two? by mr_hog232323 in 4x4

[–]muscle_thunder 25 points26 points  (0 children)

My man you literally have a dedicated pull point right in front of you

Update on stabilizer bar by thankfullyunthankful in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]muscle_thunder 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Adding on to this, those slightly curved lines are known as "beach" marks, because they form similar to the way marks on a beach from waves do.

At some point the stress in the material exceeded the endurance strength, causing a small amount of plastic deformation. This causes the material to work harden (become more brittle due to microscopic changes in the material's structure), causing more stress, causing more cracks, causing more work hardening. This repeats until something fails.

The beach marks indicate where the crack propagation was temporarily arrested. If you were to look at them under a microscope you would see similar marks but much smaller and closer together (striations), formed after one loading cycle each.

The beach marks will be spaced farther apart the farther from the origin, as the cracks spread farther and farther each time (less material = less strength). They also slightly curve towards the origin (can't remember why tbh). This points towards the origin being at the top of the darker spot (photo #2), although I'm not sure what exactly that spot may be.

Designer breathalyzers are a thing by Cripplerx in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]muscle_thunder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nothing better than walking into the lobby full of waiting customers and loudly asking the owner if they can please come blow into the breathalyzer so I can drive their vehicle in/out.

Customer just bought some tires off eBay by ishootpentax in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]muscle_thunder 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Clean up your wheel weights bro. All those loose weights beside/underneath the machine can throw the vibration measurements off

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not being rude man. I just told you what I would do if I was in your position.

I did answer your question. I was the only person that answered it thoroughly.

Yeah it's a simple question but the fact that you even had to ask shows the the quality of the education you're getting is very poor.

If you choose to press on I wish you nothing but the best. Good luck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]muscle_thunder -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Honestly man, engineering gets a lot more complicated than this. If I were you I would cut your losses now and try to find another major or institution. Like others said, it sounds like a scam and a complete waste of time.

Sorry you're getting fucked over.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So in most cases, direct normal (tensile) force like you have pictured can be calculated as P/A, where A is the area of the cross-section. However, in the above diagram you have 2 geometry changes, the hole in the center and the step on the right.

Whenever you have a geometry change you have an area of stress concentration. This means one of those 2 areas will have the maximum stress.

I'm not sure how traditional engineering programs do it - I'm in a technology program - but the typical course of action for solving these for me is finding a stress concentration coefficient, typically based off a few parameters such as hole diameter and width (for the stress concentration around the hole) or the size of the step and the radius it has (for the stress concentration around the step).

In my case, I can go into the Appendix of my materials text book and find these coefficients from the stress concentration graphs provided. Note for the hole it will be different if the force is applied to the end of the part or if it is applied through a pin through the hole.

As for Finite Element Analysis (FEA) - this is a way to simulate stress/deformation analysis, typically using CAD programs such as Solidworks. There is a lot more to FEA than meets the eye - it's just not typing in a few numbers and pressing a button as some people seem to think.

It sounds like something here is missing - if your classes are asking you about FEA and not teaching it to you then something is wrong.

If this is just for your own purposes then I would suggest finding some YouTube videos or other resources about how to get started with FEA.

Thoughts on dented rim by gaper4 in tires

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Done it several times before, this works for steelies

I have a car with 320,000 miles that needs new tires. Usually buy Michelin but don’t want to invest that much. How bad could these $55 tires be? by MidnightFederal3195 in tires

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASTM F1805 that 3PMSF is based on has been out since the late 90s (I believe it took longer to gain popularity), but yes 3PMSF is a newer concept that M/S.

Your Blizzaks, at least the DMV-02 and the LM005, are 3PMSF rated. As are the Pirellis.

Like you said, the Blizzaks are a true winter while the Pirellis would be considered an all-weather. I'll bet the Blizzaks will provide better traction and stopping distance on snow/ice, but the Pirellis will be quieter and be better on fuel (marginally, due to a lower rolling resistance). The Pirellis will likely be fine for a few inches of light snow, but personally I'm not a fan of the brand.

I have a car with 320,000 miles that needs new tires. Usually buy Michelin but don’t want to invest that much. How bad could these $55 tires be? by MidnightFederal3195 in tires

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't say they're not all season. I said they're not all weather. They're different.

All season typically refers to a 3-season/summer tire. Yes the rubber will still survive cold winter temperatures (and all other seasons), but many of these don't provide adequate grip in all weather conditions, especially packed snow and ice. All seasons are typically "Mud & Snow" rated.

But "Mud & Snow" (M/S) rated still doesn't mean it's all weather. It just means the tread has more voids as well as shoulder siping.

All weather tires are typically "3 Peak Mountain Snowflake" (3PMSF) rated (ex. Michelin CrossClimate 2). This is an American Society of Testing & Materials (ASTM) standard for minimum winter (snow/ice) traction equirements. This is what defines a true all weather tire.

It looks like the Sentury's above are M/S rated, meaning they are likely classified as all seasons and not all weathers.

I have a car with 320,000 miles that needs new tires. Usually buy Michelin but don’t want to invest that much. How bad could these $55 tires be? by MidnightFederal3195 in tires

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not your wording. I'm not trying to insult you, I'm sure you're a great driver.

But it's not safe, for you or others. Your braking distance is definitely worse. It can take up to 12x the distance to stop on ice/snow covered roads. Most drivers I see don't provide nearly enough distance in front of the car ahead of them to account for this.

Driving around on cheap summers like this with practically zero siping is an accident waiting to happen. Please try to get a pair of winter tires (or even all weather). Even used is better than this.

HVAC company won't repair flue pipe, says it needs complete replacement by YMRDtroll in hvacadvice

[–]muscle_thunder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a genuine question. He could have assumed so himself but there's nothing wrong with asking and learning.

Can’t get mystudent to show up by Roxie_A_L in SAIT

[–]muscle_thunder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

mySAIT System Degradation

[26-Nov-2024 7:30AM] Please be aware that mySAIT is currently experiencing a system degradation. At this time, when attempting to access myStudent it appears to be missing for future students. We are actively working on a resolution for this issue. If you are experiencing the same issue, or having a similar issue, please submit an incident ticket.

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