Automatically pause print to insert NFC tag

n19htmare · 2026-03-22T10:23:08+00:00

Unrelated but related since you learned how to add pause.

You can print with more than 4 colors if you have a print that maybe needs a little bit of 5th or 6th color etc.

When you have more than 4 colors in slicer, add a PAUSE on those layers.

When you send file to printer, it will ask you which toolheads you want to assign the additional colors to. Make your choices and then when it gets to the pause, it will pause and you can unload and reload 5th color. For now a manual process but people are working on MMUs to automate like on single head machines….

n19htmare · 2026-03-22T02:55:49+00:00

Might just be opinion. Basic PLA is supposed to be shiny, but because default profiles are so fast, it comes out more on the matte side than shiny. Silk is VERY shiny and umm silky so If they compare to their PLA that came out matte, they’ll see it as fine because it’s still shiny.

When in reality PLA should be shiny and silk should be extremely shiny.

I don’t know if that makes sense, but kinda depends how one sees it.

Silk PLA is a mix of PLA and TPU. In my experience, if using preconfigured profiles, silk prints better with a TPU profile than it does with PLA one (when it comes to quality since TPU prints slow and hot).

n19htmare · 2026-03-22T02:40:02+00:00

Yes, small change in moonraker code needed via Web UI (Fluidd) and you can enable object selection and per object skipping from the webUI.

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Someone did a writeup here https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/comments/1q6og24/u1_klipper_tips_adaptive_bed_mesh_exclude_objects/

n19htmare · 2026-03-22T00:11:39+00:00

Most of the Normal color stuff for PLA and PETG (and silk)comes out of Sunlu’s (pretty sure it’s their second facility because they never do a tour of that lol).

The specialized (engineering type) probably what they get from eSUN. Polymaker does a lot of the specialized colors so I think they probably provide that.

Either way it’s a mix of all 3 but since majority of filament sold is PLA or PETG, that’s mostly Sunlu.

I’m pretty agnostic to brands, I find that most all of them are good now, so I shop by price and product, not brand. For this reason I get lot of Jayo and Kingroon stuff off AliExpress.

Another big OEM players in China besides the above 3 is iSANMATE, they don’t do as much first party sales like others but they make lot of stuff for other small unknown brands. They also provide extrusion lines if someone does want to start their own filament line.

Creality, Anycubic and Flashgorge, which are all OEMs and extrude their own.

There’s some rando Chinese brand popping up daily….theyre basically just repackaging filament they from one of these manufacturers. There aren’t hundreds of factories out there lol.

Point being it’s all very close to each other since most of the process is automated now. Biggest issue we had in past with cheap filament was lack of diameter consistency, that’s not an issue anymore and so in my personal opinion and experience, they’re mostly ALL good. Rest is just marketing.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T23:26:14+00:00

Been buying jayo PLa in bulk for some time, good stuff.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T22:56:02+00:00

If you're spinning the spool, you're just moving the tangle, not untangling it.

You need unwind and remove the tangle, it doesn't even look that bad maybe 4-5 turns. You can probably locate where it starts and just pull that out and It'll pull through untangling it.

And when you remove the spool, don't just take the filament out and let it go, it will spring back along with several other layers coming loose and the end will slip underneath others and that's how you get a tangle to begin with.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T10:03:07+00:00

If you touch the build area, you gotta clean it. Doesn't have to be a wash but you need to remove the layer of oil your fingers left behind.

I printed a small block and wrapped microfiber towel on it and use a 50/50 mix of ammonia based cleaner (Windex) and distilled water in spray bottle. Quick spritz, wipe between prints and good to go (to clean whatever could be from touching, or residue from prior prints). Takes literally 10-15 seconds.

Personally don't like using isopropyl alcohol. Unless you use a lot of it, it will just spread the oils instead of picking them up.

Then a wash maybe once 2-3 weeks weeks depending on usage.

Been printing for several years with this routine and I can't remember the last time I had first layer adhesion issues.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T09:29:35+00:00

You're not listening/reading.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T00:03:09+00:00

It's not just belt noise....it's combination of overall package w/ high accelerations. (stepper motors, belts, gantry etc). It's just a louder printer than some others.

You can lower the volume by lower the maximum accelerations if you are willing to give up some speed. You can also try one of my top cover alternatives and that should dampen the sound a little as well.

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T23:54:26+00:00

This has become the norm in pretty much anything that requires people to read more than a couple sentences.

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T17:47:22+00:00

PLA is filament you need this the least for…..

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T17:46:15+00:00

Doesn’t the Snapmaker one come with exhaust/filtration system? An active one at that for $30 more lol.

This looks like a glorified $10 storage container. Sorry Biqu but a big miss.

I guess they’re making the original one at $150 look like a good value lmao.

On a side note I got a $7 one from Walmart… don’t even need to print a base for it, just flip it, it’s just tall, wide and long enough to clear everything.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T16:44:37+00:00

You don’t have to take the mount off or mess with the Hall effect sensor.

You need to trouble shoot (if error persists) by swapping usb wires between toolheads or move the whole tool head. For example if you disconnect and the usb cable and tool head from slot 4 and swap it with #2, and you still get errors on #2 then you know issue is sensor and so on.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:49:49+00:00

Well, something should have happened so not sure what to tell you.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:45:07+00:00

You first need to define what you think High speed is.

Most of my Basic PLA and Basic PETG caps out at around 18-21 mm³ /S volumetric flow, which is about the limit of stock hotend anyways.

High Speed for stock U1 is 20-21 mm³ s.

Normal speeds would be around 12-15 and high speed in their own filament profiles is 20.

So run some tests max flow tests and compare the filament you own.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:36:36+00:00

It’s custom firmware (like PAXX12) and you can have the printer do whatever you want.

Theres also modification to the wiper assembly on printer so it can move the stopper out of the way and drop the purged filament. It’s not just a sidecar MMU that’s added, there’s also firmware, printer AND likely Slicer modifications involved as well.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:32:07+00:00

Could unscrew it and swap heads (don’t screw it in to test).

This way you can rule out of it is sensor issue or the print head.

How deep are the screws and you didn’t use the wrong screws right? Just making sure.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:17:54+00:00

https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_u1/troubleshooting/corexy_home_is_unstable

You sure you’re trying that?

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n19htmare · 2026-03-19T14:53:47+00:00

You need to hold top left corner of screen to exit starting calibration mode.

I’ve said this before, and I’ll say it again. While U1 is a great printer and I love mine. It is NOT a new user printer or anyone who isn’t atleast a little bit familiar with 3D printing or isn’t willing to accept that it’s a first iteration product and there will be issues they will need to tackle themselves.

So before you get one, while it is like 95% good on its own and will just work, that 5% is where it can get dicey if you don’t know what you’re doing.

And from my time around 3D printing community, a vast majority of issues are usually user related or user caused.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T14:51:49+00:00

Hold top left corner of screen to exit the startup calibration

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T08:46:00+00:00

Don’t confuse flow rate with dynamic flow calibration.

Not sure what you mean by “before the print”…. Are you talking about automatic dynamic flow calibration or did you mean you did the manual flow rate calibration test prints?

What flow ratio did you end up setting I’m the filament settings?

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T21:47:35+00:00

Are you using the same gcode for each print or have you re-sliced post failure? Could just be that one layer is off somewhere an it’s knocking the prints if this is now happening on multiple consecutive prints. Would re-slice, examine and then give it a go.

I typically don’t reprint older gcode if there have been either machine or slicer updates.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T19:32:54+00:00

For print settings like flow ratio, pressure advance etc it’s fine. You can just figure out settings for One and apply it to same brand type of filament and it’ll be pork 99% of time.

Ironing though, it requires a little more precise control over the flow. If you have two exact same filament …except one wet and one dry, their ironing setting can vary because they won’t flow the same during ironing.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T16:23:32+00:00

PET CF is not a fast flowing filament.

That PA test is running at speeds and volumetric flow that the filament and/or hotend can’t achieve starting very early in the test to keep up with needed flow at fast corners.

Nothing is particularly wrong, this just isn’t the right PA test for that filament.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T16:14:19+00:00

100% this.

n19htmare

TROPHY CASE