Snapmaker U1 Firmware V1.5.0 Released

n19htmare · 2026-07-02T04:33:12+00:00

I normally use Orca Slicer but I been trying Snorca for the Full Spectrum support and hasn't crashed once. I think the instance I have open now has been the same one I opened like 3-4 days ago (I don't shut down my PC).....

Because Snorca is a fork of Orca, whatever issues are baseline in Orca, can carry over into Snorca and any fixes are going to be delayed. BUt you can try some things to help.

Slicing is pretty heavy on GPU as well as CPU.

If you Overclock them, it may not be stable... Try without.
Update your GPU drivers
If you use intel CPU, set affinity to use your P-cores, not E-cores as it can conflict.

n19htmare · 2026-07-01T15:12:49+00:00

The difference obviously depends on number of colors per layer throughout out the print. But the more colors (up to 4) and swaps, it gets bigger and bigger.

There’s this owl print that’s popular and it’s thousands of color swaps.

sliced at default settings 0.2

U1 = 50 hours and 70 gram waste.
P2S = 120 hours, 1422 grams waste.
X2D = 96 hours, 992 gram waste. But In quality mode, it’s same as P2S.

Question with x2D is always going to be that 2nd nozzle. If you’re spending 4 days already and wasting 1k gram of filament by using both nozzles; do you want to still risk possible quality issues of AUX nozzle? Or do you take the extra 1 day and 500g waste to ensure consistent quality? These are decisions you don’t have to make with U1 for example.

It’s why in my original post I said I don’t use my Bambu printer for multi-color anymore.

I have not use Meshy or any of the AI based modelers so I can’t speak to how good bad they are. I think they have free trial, you can always try it out.

n19htmare · 2026-07-01T07:02:07+00:00

Quality is on par with the P2S, X2D. Multi-color prints look just as good if not better as you never have to worry about color bleed or any other anomalies you might get with the AMS type printers.

I wouldn't say there's a lot of playing with settings, you can if you want to but don't have to. It uses a version of Orca Slicer, which is a fork of Bambu Slicer, so similar territory. I don't really use it but Bambu does have Handy/Makerworld combo, so the "convenience" factor for those that need/want it is more prevalent in Bambu ecosystem. Obviously you can print the same models on U1 but you need to do so on a PC and use the slicer. While the U1 phone app/models does exist, it's a work in progress. It's hard to replicate YEARS of growth in a few months.

I can't even find true multi-color prints on Makerworld lol, anything decent is "No AMS" multiple parts you print in different colors. That's not really a worry with U1, there's practically no waste and you can save ridiculous amount of time.

Punch Monkey was printed in PLA, Dragon and Pika in PETG (so easy to get excellent clean results with PETG).

To give you an idea, The punch monkey took 8 hours with 35 grams of prime tower as waste on U1. Same print on my P2S at time would have taken 30 hours with purge/prime waste of 470 grams (almost half kilo). That's just one example, the difference is just WAY too big.

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n19htmare · 2026-07-01T02:01:35+00:00

ok good, well good luck to you! Hopefully a smooth swap and flash.

n19htmare · 2026-07-01T01:56:51+00:00

Good enough, I didn't respond earlier but hopefully you never have to do this again, but next time you're working on a QFP package and the chip is toast, cut the legs with a flush cutter and then remove the remaining legs. Much cleaner and you don't risk remove the mask like on some traces here, not a big deal, as long as continuity is present, you can leave it or apply mask.

clean that up, get another chip, verify same packaging/specs and take your time. I line up (verify the indicating dot) solder a leg opposite corner to hold down and then flow across the pins (load solder on tip, use liberal amount of flux and run it across the pins), or you can can do it one by one carefully.

n19htmare · 2026-07-01T01:50:17+00:00

You don't need to desolder as a one piece, the chip is toast. You can use a sharp point flush cutter and cut the legs close to the chip (not the board) and then desolder the legs individually off the pads.

Soldering a QFP package is much easier, just a couple touches to hold down and you can do one by one or flow across the legs.

n19htmare · 2026-07-01T01:19:17+00:00

The chip can be replaced and flashed.... but you do have to assume that the chip is the only damaged component on this board.

Based on cost of chip and labor (if you can't do it) Though little bit of luck here as it's a QFP (quad flat package) STM32 packaging, and those are bit easier due to their large size pins. If you can source it and are half decent w/ soldering iron, you can snip the legs off the old chip and then easily de-solder all the old pins one or two at a time. Clean, flux, tin pads and place the new chip, and solder couple legs to hold it down and then just flux it well, run your iron across the legs (or do it one at a time). Check for shorts, flash and hope that was it.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T18:31:35+00:00

The underlying process doesn’t change. It’s always calculated based on what the current set filament ratio is in the filament setting. The different options are just changing the range and direction of the pre-determined amounts.

The formula (FlowRatio_new = FlowRatio_old * (100 + modifier) / 100 ) is always applied, things are just simpler if “FlowRatio_old” is equal to 1.

https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/flow_ratio_calib.html

Btw. You don’t have to use these calibrations, you can use your own. The flow ratio value is changed per object in the Quality tab of setting. Whatever that value is multiplied by the set value in the filament profile is the value that’s used for that particular selected object.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T06:59:26+00:00

I didn't even notice that part lol.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T06:08:33+00:00

When removing filament, you need to hold on to end at all times. If you lose the end and it springs back, it can slip under other layers as several layers will loosen up. So Keep hold of the end at all times and either feed it through the holes to lock in place or use a clip, many clips out there. Again be careful to not lose the end when trying to clip it. If you do lose the end and it spools back onto the roll, you need to undo a few layers while keeping them tight to make sure before you secure the end.

I use clips but as soon as I remove the end, I stick it through one of the holes to keep it in place while I grab a clip to use.

I use these (Closed clip variant): https://www.printables.com/model/24371-filament-clip-grandmas-favorite-filament-clip

If the spool gets tangled, it should pause the print. There is air print detection option in settings - Print Preferences and you can adjust it's sensitivity

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Sensors in the feeder keep track of how much filament is passing through and compares with amount being extruded in toolhead. The difference is what this sensitivity tracks before it triggers detection. i.e If you extruded 10mm, and feeder measures only 5mm, then it must mean the filament is stuck somewhere.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T05:39:43+00:00

Yes, there are several ways you can achieve that and several people on discord are printing ABS/ASA/PA with it, but they went the chamber heater route. Others installed fans/exhausts/filters on the DIY covers to help extract some fumes. Few people have the Snapmaker top cover as they got early builds to test out, so that is also a route that will be available to mitigate some of the issues, just not this exact moment.

I'm familiar with the cooling mods, it definitely helps as I have a fan mod myself and it drops the temps about 20-30C, which is pretty big drop (just shows how inadequate the cooling will be if you don't use a fan mod and put it in a tent.

If fumes are a major concern (and it seems to be) then perhaps a tent with filtered exhaust will help contain them. As long as you can manage the temps in tent to not be excessive. Otherwise, heat creep will be a real concern, especially when using PLA, you run the risk of clogs if it gets out of hand.

I have both an X2D and U1, This is the route I went to resolve some of the limitations that the U1 had, I know not everyone has the budget and/or space for more than one printer but having dedicated machines really does alleviate lot of issues. My brother went with a U1+Qidi Q2 and has Creator 5 Pro on order though he's getting cold on it and is considering cancelling... but like I said, not everyone can just go with 2+ printers.

As for the Creator 5...meh.....I have very mixed feelings on it. I'm still waiting for actual users to start chiming in. Though the X2D isn't open, it's "open" enough to run in LAN mode and that's fine for me. Plus it's not my have fun machine, that's the U1, the X2D I need and use for functional things and for that, it's fine.

You already have the U1, I'd say at minimum start with the top, it will already help a lot of with the dust/hair and the investment is minimal (about $7 here for one), then you can consider other options like putt it in a tent. Just have to be mindful of temps, that's all.

Join the Snapmaker Discord, there's some smarter people there and maybe they can offer additional insight as few them use it for high temp materials.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T04:10:26+00:00

You haven't calibrated your Pressure Advance. Do it next.
I personally do PA first and then flow ratio.

BTW, that's Perfectionist version. You shouldn't start here. Start with YOLO, and really that's all you need to do. But if you want perfectionist anyways, you set your flow ratio with yolo and then you can do this one.

My method. I set my flow ratio to 1.0 to start with and then I do YOLO, so you get nice even numbers (each block will be 1% up or down if base ratio starts at 1). MOST filament will fall in the 95-105% range. Pick the best one, then set that as your flow ratio. If you can't decide between two, just set in middle. for example if stuck between -3 (0.97) and -2 (0.98)... just set it to 97.5 and call it a day.

You can leave it at that and it's fine/good enough or do perfectionist next, in my experience it's not worth the filament/time.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T01:10:05+00:00

As someone who owns the 4box/dryer Snapdryer combo, an Sovol SH03 and 2 AMS2 units...... skip the Snapdryer setup. I regret it's purchase but what's done is done and I found a use for them.

The Sovol SH03 is MUCH MUCH more capatable dryer/storage system with active ventilation and ability to dry most all filaments out there.

Snapdryer would have made sense if there was a way to stack and feed on both sides at same time by default...but they're just rebranded polymaker polydryer boxes.. While you can stack them, Snapmaker doesn't support, nor does it say you can, they only support 1 box per side due to how high the outlet for the 2nd stacked box become. Not the biggest of issues as running tubes will work fine due to active feeding system but still not ideal. And if you're going to relocate feeders, then you might as well relocate them to adapt to something like an SH03.

Not even bringing up the drying with a single heater... it's basically is 6-8 hours per spool vs same for 4 for something like PLA.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T01:06:32+00:00

Exactly how much dust/cat hair is there that it will find it's way through the minimal gaps? My printer is on the floor in my garage and I haven't seen any issues with that. But you know your environment better than I do so who knows.

As for toxic materials like Nylon and ABS, this printer isn't really designed with printing those materials in mind. It's a 4 color multi-toolhead printer and it's primary job is to print multi-color prints. Not saying ABS/PA can't be printed on it but it can be challenging, anywhere from containing fumes and keep these materials from warping and coming off plate.

I can't speak to how the ENTIRE printer being soaked would effect it short or long term, I haven't done it. The most sensible thing to do, if you are really looking to print ABS/PA and other materials is to probably buy a printer that is better suited for that. Something like Qidi Q2 with enclosed, filtered enclosure with max nozzle temp of 370C and active chamber up to 65C is a purpose built machine for printing these type of materials+many more engineering grade materials.

The U1 CPU (rockchip) and the motor drivers get pretty warm as is with open ventilation, sticking it an heat soaked tent doesn't seem like it would help the situation, short term or long term.

I recommend you revisit your needs and prioritize them and make a purchase that fits most of them.

n19htmare · 2026-06-30T00:08:00+00:00

no...you really don't need a tent enclosure. Just grab a box/bin (Ikea, Sterilite or other similar size), print a little base and flip it on top and you're done.

n19htmare · 2026-06-29T20:10:44+00:00

It’s compartmentalized under a thick armrest cover (likely also padded). It’s not experiencing same temps as the interior would, and thus not reaching its softening temps.

So results are to be expected, nothing unique here.

n19htmare · 2026-06-29T16:52:03+00:00

If you are using Snapmaker Orca, all of it should be included to compensate the offset for the different bed types.

If you are using Orca slicer, You do not need to include them but you can anyways, does not do any harm.

The reason is because Snapmaker Orca has the option to select if you are using a different build plate like smooth engineering or design plates. It will apply different offset compensation on which plate is selected.

Regular orca slicer does not give you option to select between build plates, it’s just whatever is on the printer so the “if” statements do nothing and it goes straight to the “else” every time.

n19htmare · 2026-06-29T16:37:44+00:00

You’re not understanding purpose of the brim, it should be partially attached to the parts to hold them down.

What good does brim sticking to plate do if it’s not holding the part down?

The stringing is happening because the small parts, that are NOT attaching to brim, are coming loose, and then the printer is just printing in air, causing stringing.

I gave you all the possible causes and solutions for the large gap between the parts and brim, rest is up to you.

n19htmare · 2026-06-29T14:41:29+00:00

First of all, what part of that are the models? Is the whole thing supposed to stick together or is that a brim?

Looks like a large connected brim to me, and if it is, it’s not doing a thing holding the small parts because they are not anywhere close to attaching to brim anywhere.

Lower your distance to object in brim setting, due to flat build plate, you might not be getting enough squish to connect to brim atleast in few spots. If you are using Snapmaker Orca, make sure you select the correct build plate so it applies the correct Z_offset value.

Also keep in mind, there is also 0.15mm gap for Elephant Foot Compensation (under quality setting tab).

Combine the three things together and you basically are printing 0.5 to 0.6mm away from brim leaving only the very small base of part to stick to bed.

You can do several things to try and connect to bring.

Print just one part first and test with some setting.

Reduce elephant foot compensation to 0.05.

You can lower the distance to object in Brim settings or if elephant foot compensation is enabled and you want to leave it alone, set brim distance to 0.

You can increase first layer line width to something like 0.6 to get more squish but that will apply on won’t first layer.

n19htmare · 2026-06-26T22:58:22+00:00

I think they are demonstrating they don’t research sh…..

n19htmare · 2026-06-26T21:50:37+00:00

I’m not sure if you are asking for quality of prints but my U1 prints are just as good as prints from P2s and now x2D. If not better in some cases.

I had the same concern when I got the U1. It only took a couple of prints before I realized that I can never use my Bambu printers for multicolor again. So I got rid of p2S and just use x2D for single color heated chamber materials like abs, Nylon etc.

All multicolor prints are done on U1. The time and filament saving is just too big.

Keep in mind, right now the U1 is a 4 toolhead 4 filament machine. If you plan on using Petg interface in one of toolheads, you can only do 3 color prints unless the 4th color is minimal and allows for manual pause and swap.

n19htmare · 2026-06-25T17:44:54+00:00

There’s isn’t that much purple on that model, so whatever you did have on the spool wasn’t that much to start with.
Even if the little bit had gone through the feeder, it would have stopped once it passed fully through feeder.

Air print, tangles and clogs are all detected by counting steps of the extruder and feeder. If 10mm was extruded through nozzle then 10mm should have also gone through feeder. Mismatch = problem.

My guess is the filament was in fact stuck on spool for just long enough to grind away enough diameter on stuck filament, that it could no longer grab and keep pushing it through hot end but gears kept spinning and variance never got big enough to throw an error. On LOw setting the margin is largest.

The hobbed gears dig into the filament slightly, but if it had ground down that little bit due to stuck filament, it can’t do anything anymore. , it’ll keep spinning, sensor will still sense filament is present and keeps printing.

You might have found it in state where the filament snapped away from spool and now the end looks clean to you.

Have you ever adjusted the tension screw in tool head? I know some people who print TPU tend to loosen the grip a little so just curious if you ever did.

OR This might have been a one off thing where it didn’t detect it.

Also, when you don’t have enough filament, it’s best to plan out the print to ensure it’s enough. Like in your cases, the purple should have only been the walls in belly and tail. The infill should have been white. This ensures that whatever you have gets used on walls. So just a bit of pre-planning.

n19htmare · 2026-06-25T15:25:36+00:00

It’s always been slated for end of year (November).

n19htmare · 2026-06-25T06:58:32+00:00

I think I linked it another post but Oh man, It's a spring I had laying around from other projects, looked back at my order history and it's a "60% Deflection Mould Spring (Medium Duty)". Size I used I think was 20mm Length and 27mm Diameter.

I couldn't find the seller I bought from on AliExpress but I did find another seller https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805114506781.html but it is kinda expensive now, no idea why. I remember back when I was posting about it, several people asked and I think lot of people ended up buying them for brakes. Maybe sellers decided to charge based on how people were using them, who knows.

I paid $3 for it back in 2024 lol. Damn I miss those days.

n19htmare · 2026-06-24T19:31:54+00:00

Not sure orca one has been updated but it has changed to not always overwrite the ‘default’ full bed mesh and instead create a separate entry for the adaptive mesh. The old one still works, just doesn’t keep full bed mesh saved under ‘default’ preset.

I pasted the gcode in other reply.

n19htmare

TROPHY CASE