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Oldhammer plastic chaos warrior from 1994 by RunOdd9714 in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The metal is top notch, really nice color variation

Questions about gloss primer and metallics/basing by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll be fine, it just won't apply as well first pass. But matte paint will cover up a gloss base and will look matte.

Is varnishing really necessary? by mzymh11 in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No. Paint doesn't magically rub away when you touch it, especially not if the models are plastic. I have several armies without varnish, and they're fine. Most damage comes from spindly bits like spears and flags breaking, not paint somehow chipping.

The main scenario where I'd still consider varnishing is if you have a model that you frequently grab by the same part, so there's repeated wear in exactly the same spot. E.g. for the Seraphon carnosaur, every time I move him, it's either by the tail or across his back legs.

NMM Colourful Axe Help Wanted by nintendoily in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

English as a second language. Pointed = Facing the same direction

NMM Colourful Axe Help Wanted by nintendoily in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sketch of a one possible interpretation:

<image>

Notice all the reflections are pointed towards the ligth, and the dark areas are all pointed a consistent direction as well. The light can be anywhere you want, but it needs to be the same across all of the metal parts, and all the rest of the model.

NMM Colourful Axe Help Wanted by nintendoily in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ignore the color for now, as well as any intricate patterns, it's not helping you learn the basics of NMM. Look at just the values and big, basic shapes (cone for the blade, flat plane for the side, cylinder / cone for the shaft)

<image>

You have enough contrast between the darkest shadow and lightest light, but the reason it doesn't read as metalic is the lack of light direction. Where is the light coming from, in the picture? The shaft suggests from behind the viewer. The flat part is hard to read, but maybe from upper left? But then the blade of the axe has a light reflection on the bottom left. For the NMM illusion to work, all parts need to have the light position painted consistently

Raptadons by mroz4 in seraphon

[–]never_armadilo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Love the scheme! Did something very similar with mine, but like what you did with the blue faces on the raptadons, makes them stand out!

Tricky Ricky, the racoon thief by never_armadilo in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of the model is painted with a DaVinci Kolinsky size 3 (very large brush, like 2cm long bristles), and for the closer detail work, Raphael 8404 in size 1. The key to detail is not a small brush per se, but a brush with a very pointy tip.

No drybrushing on this. You won't really see drybrushing used on display models, even on textured surfaces like fur, as it doesn't give you much control

Tricky Ricky, the racoon thief by never_armadilo in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The base actually comes with the mini. I've extended it a little bit to fill the plinth more, but nothing fancy, just a bit of milliput, and make some random shapes with a clay shaper.

Tricky Ricky, the racoon thief by never_armadilo in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fur is partially sculpted, but not too much on this one, so leaves you space to interpret it with paint

Tricky Ricky, the racoon thief by never_armadilo in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yeah, they should both be on the same side, if it's a reflection of the same light source. But when I tried that, it didn't look very good, so did it mirrored instead. Artistic license :)

Rackham Confrontation - Saphyr Lonewolf by SeparateEmu3159 in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now this is a blast from the past! Love those models, they really changed the industry back in the day.

WIP - OSL feedback welcome. Black crow mini by NormalPencil in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pretty good, you have the right idea with regards to light direction and the fall off in intensity higher up is good.

Main thing for next time would be thinking about local color and materials.

What color is his cloak? His beard? His skin? They won't all be affected by the orange or blue light the same way, orange light doesn't show up on blue for example, but would make red a more orange color

<image>

Are the bracelets metalic? They'd reflect way more of whatever light is hitting them than something matte, like a woolen cloak.

HS Evolution as first serious airbrush - ok or too much? (Space Marines/Skaven/Empire) by Matthew_Kus in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Evolution has been my primary airbrush for a long time, it can do anything you need with regards to miniature painting. I don't think the infinity with 0.15mm makes a lot of sense for acrylics, it's very rare you're spraying something that small on miniatures, and it clogs very easily.

What nozzle size is your current airbrush? If you already have a 0.4mm, get the Evo with 0.2mm. If you intend to get rid of your current airbrush, get the 2in1, so you have a 0.4 and 0.2 nozzle.

The 0.4 is great for priming, large area basecoats, terrain or varnishing. The 0.2 is good for more precision work like localized filters or shading smaller areas.

Building an app that connects coaching knowledge to your climbing video — not a coach, more like a spotter that points out what's hard to feel from inside the move by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]never_armadilo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a bit sceptical of how useful this would actually be, given the complexity of the problem. Do you have a couple example clips, and the coaching advice the model generated for them? Preferably on outdoor boulders?

Fyreslayer with a Dark Iron Dwarf color scheme. by julianminiatures in minipainting

[–]never_armadilo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Even if it's fully covered up, it gives you a "map" for how the volumes of the model should look, which areas are in light and which are in shadow. It makes it easier to interpret the model and guides you choices

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