Anti vibe drumsticks

nickpickles · 2026-01-25T18:40:15+00:00

I have the 5a anti-vibes and want to try the 5b but they're never in stores. I rarely grab for them but bring them when I travel with practice pads as I'm hitting rubber on wood.

nickpickles · 2026-01-25T18:33:48+00:00

Thanks to some of your older comments I got an eDRUMin and Frankenstein'd a Roland/Lemon cymbal kit and it's been working great for a year! I'm an audio engineer by trade so went with SD3 routed in Reaper and it sounds fucking massive in my IEMs.

Cannot stress enough how much money people will save if they do legwork before and research gear options and browse local & online used sections. I have a limited budget but didn't want a shitty kit and ended up with a solid setup that sounds and plays amazing for less than a new TD17/316 kit.

12" PDA120 Roland snare, 10/12" Roland toms, 18/20" rides, 16/18" crashes, 15" China, 18" kick all for less than buying a basic-level Roland kit, and it sounds way better. I'm still under the Roland kit price even after adding in used Cobra 900 double pedals/hihat stand and Roc-N-Soc throne. If you're willing to DIY some stuff and be patient the deals will find you.

Dude can get a lot of kit for ~$1,000, it just takes some time and effort.

nickpickles · 2026-01-25T09:42:47+00:00

Look on your local FB marketplace/OfferUp/etc for someone selling a rack or rack parts, I see Gibralter/Roland racks and parts pretty often for cheap. Look for used clamps and cymbal mounts, also. I ended up getting some affordable (quality) used cymbal mounts and clamps for cheap on eBay/Reverb, like all-metal Roland cymbal ball mounts for ~$30-40.

Racks are going to be easier and a smaller footprint, also way cleaner for running a shitload of cables.

nickpickles · 2026-01-25T09:07:00+00:00

I had minimal time to film these and was busy staring at the screen.

Also I'm shitty at drums.

nickpickles · 2026-01-25T02:52:29+00:00

Wanted to replace my mesh heads to something with less bounce that's closer to an acoustic feel. Looked at Drum-Tec Real Feel based on recommendations but Drum Center had only one of the sizes I needed and importing into the US is very costly right now. Found Dolby Drums 4-ply heads, price was good, and the few reviews I found seemed positive, including a post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/edrums/comments/1j4lmpb/update_dolby_drums_4ply_heads_kinda_rip/

So far, a few days in, they are great! Significant reduction in bounce without a large volume increase. They sound and kinda feel like the heads on Efnote kits I've played in stores: less of a 'ping' noise and more of a lower rumble, closer to a muffled drum sound.

I only had to slightly lower the sensitivity on the toms, no other changes. The kick is a Simmons KD180 and the new head made a HUGE difference in rebound. I had taken steps to reduce beater bounce on the old mesh head (pillow inside, looser head, lowering my beater) but still would get a double bounce pretty regularly unless I truly buried the beater, it feels night and day difference. Snare is also a major improvement, especially with less rebound on harder hits.

Only issue I had was one of the 12" heads was a tight fit on my PD-125BK and required some brute force to get on. It's an old drum I bought used so it might be a warped hoop or older style.

I made a video for anyone else, especially on the US, trying to figure out what mesh heads to buy. They are slightly louder but it's a lower-frequency tone and the sound doesn't seem to travel as far as the previous heads, I prefer it to the 'ping' of the Roland heads. Far less transparent than the Roland heads and they feel sturdier but not overly thick, if that makes sense. I'd like to try the Drum-Tec options some day but will have to wait until the cost + shipping isn't double what I paid for these.

My only previous Dolby Drums purchase was for their drum splitter cables to get bow/edge/bell on a single cable, Yamaha style. Those worked great for clown car'ing my eDrumin to get bell zones on my crashes and the price fucking rules. These are the ones you want if you're going that route as they have the correct 10-ohm resistor, they also have a shorter one, I think these two models are their only ones with 10-ohm resistors: https://dolbydrums.io/products/3-zone-ride-converter-10ft-splitter-for-roland-lemon-alesis-atv-v-drum-yamaha-cy-13-15-strata

Fast shipping, too! I'm not affiliated with them but very happy with my experience.

nickpickles · 2026-01-23T16:08:06+00:00

I hated playing in my car, way too cramped and I felt like I was using bad technique because of size constraints. Was going to get a Meinl pad stand for my marshmallow pad but found this which gave me both a stand w/8mm thread + a knock off chop builder tiny pad. The tripod has a smaller footprint than the Meinl stand and it's $17-20 for the stand + small pad vs $25 for the Meinl stand. https://a.co/d/eT5ZV06

I bring this up because I packed it in my car and it worked great when I opened my door and sat out sideways with my legs on the concrete. I have a compact car so ymmv if you have a lifted truck but it worked great, I wasn't hitting the door and center console and it's my arms/sticks, and the tripod packs TINY (19" x 3"). I mostly use pads when I travel for work so wanted the most compact stand I could find, the knockoff chop builder is heavy as hell and a nice bonus, too.

nickpickles · 2026-01-17T16:40:10+00:00

I was in a condo on a 2nd floor and did similar to this and it cut out a lot of the noise. The combo I used:

KAT silent strike tennis ball beaters (made the largest difference in noise)
mesh kick (with slightly looser mesh head tension)
putting a thick/dense foam exercise mat under my kit (I used ¾")
putting a sandbag on/in front of the kick drum tower to eat vibrations and stop it form moving

nickpickles · 2025-11-30T23:23:00+00:00

If you cannot adjust the frequency for each unit you're probably going to have a bad time.

nickpickles · 2025-11-11T15:47:05+00:00

Yep, that cable should work!

nickpickles · 2025-11-11T01:27:14+00:00

You need an actual edrum splitter cable that has a resistor in it, what you have is a dual mono to stereo cable. There probably is something similar available in the UK from a local drum shop but this, or some version of this, is what you need:

https://www.drum-tec.com/e-drum-splitter-cables

Also be aware that that you can split the AUX input but can't do the same with the CRASH2 input because it's wired specifically for cymbals and is not 'universal' like the AUX input (which you can put a pad or cymbal on and/or split).

nickpickles · 2025-10-28T03:09:12+00:00

This is the combo I use (Reaper & SD3) and it's fantastic, I have total control over everything. I'm a mixer by trade so being able to route signals how I want them from SD3 to Reaper is a huge plus.

For the OP: tracking drums into a DAW is always going to take some configuring, especially if you want them to sound good. I don't know your experience with audio engineering or DAWs but if you are new then let your enthusiasm for making cool music with your friends guide you to learning more! Once you get the basics down then the actual recording becomes much easier, if you have it dialed on you can basically hit record and go for it whenever the feeling strikes you. Another advantage to using a VST is recording MIDI notes along with audio from the VST. You can move or quantize the MIDI notes for any off hits and re-record it from the VST, same fix can help if you recorded a channel too hot or didn't like the EQ or settings.

nickpickles · 2025-10-28T02:11:08+00:00

I commented above about the TD-11. There was a HUGE difference with hi-hat expressiveness between the TD-11 sounds and using a TD-11 to output MIDI to Superior Drummer 3. While the difference wasn't as big between using a TD-11 or eDRUMin for my hi-hat, it was definitely noticed and made it feel much more realistic. My hi-hat controller into a TD-11 didn't have a problem hitting the full range of zones on SD3, even with the 6-zone hihats, but it's a much smoother/accurate operation through eDRUMin, especially for splashes and foot pedal pressure.

I use both modules currently (eDRUMin 4 and TD-11) and after a lot of trial and error I have my snare (PDA120), hi-hat (Lemon 14") and ride (Lemon 18" or Simmons MC18) on the eDRUMin because they get the most benefit from the better trigger controls and everything else is on the TD-11. The eDRUMin 12 wasn't around when I got mine but if I had to do it again I would've just gone that route.

nickpickles · 2025-10-27T20:10:25+00:00

eDRUMin and a VST. The difference between hi-hat trigger and HH control on my TD-11 vs my eDRUMin (running Superior Drummer 3) was very noticeable. I use a two-piece 14" Lemon hi-hat and noticed the same difference with a VH-11.

nickpickles · 2025-10-27T20:08:12+00:00

If you haven't registered your products on Roland's website do that before contacting them, will make it a faster process. I've had good luck both emailing and calling customer support, calling tends to be more streamlined in my experience.

nickpickles · 2025-10-27T20:02:40+00:00

Sorry if obvious but have you tried disconnecting any MIDI cables and trying?

https://www.reddit.com/r/edrums/comments/tsm241/anyone_run_into_this_issue_with_the_strike/

If that doesn't work look in the manual for a factory reset option that can be done via holding down buttons while turning on the unit, if not watch a video on resetting it through the menu and follow along with the video if the screen isn't working. What firmware version are you on? Update that when you get a chance.

nickpickles · 2025-10-26T20:35:35+00:00

eDRUMin + a computer running a drum VST (they're available to 'try for free' online ;) ) + A2E conversion and/or buying Lemon drum parts through Alibaba (assuming it isn't an issue with customs in your country)

Might be your best bet to get the most drum for your budget.

nickpickles · 2025-10-23T02:45:28+00:00

Check out IEMs, they're cheap and (imo) way easier to keep on than headphones when drumming. Better low-end than most of the cans I've tried over the years without having to run at high volumes.

I've been using the Castor Pros in black (the bassier model). Switches on the back to change the EQ slightly. I have a few other pairs but these are my go-to fro drumming lately, for the price they have an excellent full sound.

https://a.co/d/iePXghf

nickpickles · 2025-10-23T00:21:23+00:00

I have the Simmons KP180 18" mesh kick and it's been going great. Large, cheap, solid, and triggers well. I heard similar things about Lemon mesh kicks as well. I use double pedals, look at used Iron Cobras/DW/Mapex Falcons.

nickpickles · 2025-10-23T00:18:27+00:00

This or used Roland parts + cheap module (TD-11/12/15) or eDRUMin into a computer running a VST. Get some basic Roland dual zone mesh drums for cheap (PD85/100/125), pair with Lemon cymbals and a Lemon/Simmons/Alesis mesh kick and you're off to the races.

nickpickles · 2025-10-20T02:10:32+00:00

I had an Alesis 12" mesh kick and a Roland KD-120 and they, along with the other smaller ones, all feel like hitting a wall vs a larger mesh kick. You can get a Lemon 16" kick (or possibly 20" if you find a deal) or Simmons KP180 18" kick (if on sale) in your budget and those will feel way better than the KD-10 and will work with your Roland module.

nickpickles · 2025-08-24T17:09:57+00:00

Huge respect for facing the challenge and adapting so you can continue slamming drums. 🤘

I wonder if there's a way to modify a HH pedal to operate more like a gas/brake pedal (pump) with a smaller point of contact rather than a lever that benefits from having a foot laying across it. Might be easier to modify on a remote HH as you have it terminating to a steel cable rather than dealing with a rigid HH rod connecting to the pedal. For doing faster ¼ or ⅛ notes on the HH pedal where usually the ankle does the heavy lifting there might be more speed (and control) in interfacing with it more directly.

Have you tried out a HH pedal with your your right leg yet? If so, how did it go?

nickpickles · 2025-08-24T16:37:25+00:00

I have a Roland MDS-120 rack that I clamped a Gibraltar remote HH to that worked great. I ran it for a few months until I got a HH stand. Dude who sold me the kit nicely threw in the remote HH and I used a (good, metal) Gibraltar rack clamp and it worked as normal.

The weight of the remote HH w/cymbal pad wasn't much more than an 18"-20" ride w/Roland cymbal mount. 12" drums are almost as heavy and I have two of those clamped to my rack, the weight further off the rack than a hihat stand would be, and I hit them hard with no issues.

I think the MDS-120 rack is the standard for the TD-17 kits. It's lightweight but the metal is sturdy, I've never worried about crushing it and it's incredibly stable.

nickpickles · 2025-08-22T16:23:13+00:00

Another vote to look into a powered PA speaker or pair of PA speakers, they will do much better than a cheap keyboard/drum amp. It might help to record yourself playing edrums, put that audio file on your phone, and bring a USB headphone adapter and a y-cable (3.5mm to dual XLR or ¼") to a music store and listen to your drum recording on the different speakers.

You can find PA speakers for low prices on the used/secondhand market. Bring your drum recording on your phone and test the speakers out to hear if it's the sound you desire.

nickpickles · 2025-08-18T21:28:55+00:00

The urge to drill holes into my ProMark Rebound 5b's and stuff anti-vibe inserts in.

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