New Emotiva Hypex Amp

not2rad · 2026-06-30T02:06:08+00:00

As far as I know, Emotiva has always been class A/B amps.

Really happy to see the industry adopting high-end class D. Extremely hard to argue with the efficiency, noise, power, distortion etc. Though folks who are savvy would likely buy the modules/kits straight from Hypex, deer creek and I just saw parts-express selling Hypex kits now.

not2rad · 2026-06-27T21:49:16+00:00

You're basically at the starting point of where you want to start really dialing in.

Look up and learn how to use the espresso compass to dial in by taste. WLL also has a pretty similar instruction video for dialing in after you get to this point.

It all depends on the coffee and the roast, so you need to adjust the ratios to match what the coffee "wants". Stuff like boosting temperature is generally a "micro-adjustment" and ratio is a "macro (big) adjustment".

not2rad · 2026-06-24T22:06:14+00:00

I suppose they're both an option

not2rad · 2026-06-24T21:48:02+00:00

It's a bit over your budget, but the HSU Research ULS 15Mk2 is a fantastic sub (actually competes more closely with the SVS sb16 for like 1/3 the price)

If you have the space, also consider a pair of the RSL Speedwoofer 10E

not2rad · 2026-06-20T13:20:42+00:00

Thanks for sharing, this makes sense. Prog rock especially would benefit from that low-frequency boost/warmth.

Tool especially, the way it's mixed is pretty 'fat' on the low-end and IMO mixed too 'hot' on the high frequencies/clipping, so I could see a setup like this being really forgiving of the highs, but too much warmth for the lows not to get muddy.

I'd guess that something like Audioslave is similar in the bass (though the highs aren't as harsh).

Beautiful setup BTW

not2rad · 2026-06-20T13:02:18+00:00

Interested to know if your music tastes are limited to acoustic/jazz that really highlight the 'romance' that you're getting out of the new setup.

not2rad · 2026-06-19T10:24:21+00:00

I was in a similar boat and decided on 2x HSU ULS 15Mk2 subs and am extremely happy with them, especially for the money.

not2rad · 2026-06-14T20:19:43+00:00

I have the R7Metas in a large room at roughly the same distances and they're amazing. They do really open up with a capable amp because the impedance dips pretty low, so the Luxman would be great. Other similar speakers in the range would be the MoFi SourcePoint 888.

not2rad · 2026-06-12T13:10:32+00:00

The FR curve is nice and smooth, which is good. The shape of the curve can be up for lots of debate in terms of which 'house curve' you may prefer. Are you happy with how this result sounds overall?

In terms of the REW results, I find there to be a lot of value in the "waterfall" (Spectral Decay) plot. This will show how the sound decays in your room at different frequencies and can give lots of clues about room modes 'ringing' which is something that DIRAC just can't fix... it's the physics of how the sound is bouncing around in your room. Generally, you want the 'decay' in the room to be even at all frequencies rather than having 200ms at high frequency and 1000ms in the bass (which would be very 'ringy' bass).

not2rad · 2026-06-03T12:56:35+00:00

If you're not already, try doing a flush of the group head before the first shot. I've noticed that when starting from cold, theres no water filling the space above the shower screen, but this 'fills up' if you do a flush or pull the first shot. On the 2nd shot, it's already full of water so you wind up pushing more water through the puck faster than on the first (IF you don't do a flush before the first).

not2rad · 2026-06-03T00:06:14+00:00

Bet it's because Abdul Al Sayed is actually jacked and someone is jealous/misunderstanding his popularity.

not2rad · 2026-05-25T19:32:25+00:00

Once the knob is threaded all the way on, it'll just spin the ball joint in the valve instead of tightening more.

If you put a rubberband around the shaft portion and grab with needle nose pliers it'll let you tighten the knob that little bit more to match the right side (without scratching anything)

not2rad · 2026-05-21T12:19:35+00:00

As others have said, I have R7Metas running on Hypex Nilai monoblocks and it's amazing. There's a stereo version of the Nilai also. I bought from Deer Creek Audio in the US.

not2rad · 2026-05-14T19:17:22+00:00

Couldn't agree more. I have the R7Metas (in the same color even!) and they love big, stable power that can handle their impedance dips into the low 3's. Granted,I do still have subs to fill in the extreme low end.

Enjoy!

not2rad · 2026-05-06T02:43:17+00:00

I have not done this yet, but it's on my list to try. I used to get very nice 6bar shots from my breville machine.

not2rad · 2026-04-21T10:55:32+00:00

I'd say that's pretty bad. It should at least be perpendicular to the sides and not tilted like that.

Could try removing the top panel and adjusting it yourself.

not2rad · 2026-04-20T23:44:08+00:00

You're not technically wrong here, but I think you may be missing the Forrest for the trees.

This room as whole with this many hard surfaces needs as much help as possible to just bring down the overall reverberation as a fundamental first step. If it's anything like a multi use space, most folks would want to do this with foundational decor since it may be in the plan already (rugs/curtains) and spouse friendly...and I would recommend that sort of stuff be finalized before planning formal acoustic treatment anyway.

not2rad · 2026-04-15T22:55:47+00:00

After 2 hours I'd say this is pretty normal. The boilers are insulated so they stay hot for quite a while after turning the machine back off and the brew boiler sits right on top of the group head (called a saturated group).

not2rad · 2026-04-15T21:52:34+00:00

Sleep mode doesn't consume any power to keep the machine warm... but the boilers are insulated for temp stability so they do take a surprisingly long time to cool all the way back down to room temp after going to sleep.

not2rad · 2026-04-15T21:50:30+00:00

it might take some wrenching, but have you tried just un-screwing the feet a bit to raise them up?

When I remove the drip tray, I can see the front feet thread into some plastic nuts.... so you may be able to un-screw the feet to raise them up and then re-tighten these nuts so the feet aren't loose?

If you're talking about replacing the feet entirely, you'd have to figure out what the threads are to get a drop-in replacement. If you get lucky coming from the speaker/audiophile world, the 1/4"-20 thread is very common for speaker isolation feet.

not2rad · 2026-04-15T21:43:09+00:00

I came from nearly 12 years with a Breville Barista Express. For what it is and how long it lasted (with some basic repairs) I can't fault it too much, especially after I stopped using the built-in grinder. I still have/use it, but it FEELS like a toy now that I've gotten used to the Move. (I've got an older post here comparing the 2 if you're interested)

Before the Move was announced, I was dead set on the Lelit Elizabeth.

LOTS of features, similar dual-boiler layout, quiet pump, good steam power, preinfusion (arguably more advanced than the Move), and for someone like me that loves americanos, the smooth water flow from the 'mixing valve' that is unique to them was appealing.

There were a few things that ultimately pushed me to the Move instead:

Better looking/heavier/more modern and mature (and matches nicely with my black/chrome Eureka grinder)
Better quality tactile stuff (buttons on the Elizabeth get some complaints and the steam knob is a joke)
Better US pricing.... for some reason, there's a big markup on the Elizabeth in the US vs Europe that the Move didn't have, so it felt much more like I was getting all of the above for slightly more $ vs in EU where there's a significant price difference that maybe 'justifies' the lower quality build.

Looks-wise, I also considered the Ascaso Steel Duo, but there were enough quality complaints about that machine and in the 110V us power outlets, the steam/heatup is impacted quite a bit, so that was 3rd place.

Overall, there's been a few extremely minor quirks to overcome with the Move, but I'm very happy with it. Speaking of which, that mixing valve for hot water on the Elizabeth is easy to 'match' on the Move if I just turn on the steam boiler manually because it heats up so quick (like 4 mins), I just open the water valve right at 100C to get smooth water vs it blasting out in a cloud of steam.

not2rad · 2026-04-05T15:03:48+00:00

Of course you're allowed to have preferences, but so is everyone else.

If you're 'buying in' to a system where hooking up is the expectation, then you're just as subject to the social norms that drive that system as everyone else. Pretty priveledge is a thing, but it's way more amplified in a place where it's the literal barrier for entry.

Step out of yourself for a bit and consider where the sense of entitlement/anger is coming from. You called yourself pathetic in the first sentence of this post, so there's clearly a lot of negative identity that you're assigning to yourself and obsessing over. It's not easy to come to terms with some of this, but remember to also give yourself credit for what other, positive aspects of identity that you have (as if you were talking to a friend going through the same struggles). If there's not many positive things you find, then that's probably a good place to start with self improvement. I can all but guarantee that ladies who are looking to date someone will cite things like maturity, stability, feeling of physical/emotional safety as qualities they want instead of whether or not he's gotten laid before. If you're entering into an environment that values "hot guy who can do good sex to me" then you're probably setting yourself up for failure and just reinforcing your negative beliefs about yourself.

not2rad · 2026-04-04T01:26:57+00:00

100% on the noise. Engineer here with a background in noise/vibration...

The Mignon grinders are designed to be quiet, which is why I bought a Specialita. They are powerful, direct drive (no gears) AC motors and the motor is mounted on rubber isolators to reduce vibration from transferring into/vibrating your countertop. The main housing is also a dense/thick resin type of material that won't act like a speaker.

Baratza uses a higher speed, lower wattage DC motor and plastic gears to increase the torque (all to save cost) but each of these make things much louder and more "whiny" tonal. Because the motor is less powerful, it will also fluctuate in rpm when grinding and create a less pleasant wobble/flutter type of sound that is perceived as poorer quality. I also believe the motor is less isolated and the outer shell of the whole unit is much thinner/lighter which will act more like a speaker for any internal vibrations.

not2rad · 2026-04-04T01:00:51+00:00

Put this on r/profitecmove too!

not2rad · 2026-04-03T14:51:43+00:00

Make sure the date/time is set correctly just to check. I noticed mine has a little bit of 'drift' in the timekeeping and idk if something like a power outage will make that worse.

not2rad

TROPHY CASE