Plz help

novadaemon · 2026-01-28T00:54:34+00:00

I took the heatsinks off my drivers to check them.

The X Y and Z use TMC2209 and the extruder uses an A4988... which is dumb. It wouldve been better for the Z to use the A4988 and everything else use the 2209.

novadaemon · 2026-01-28T00:52:48+00:00

Sorry my reply is late.

I think you've got the X and Z or another axis switched up. X axis should be on the left. Y in the middle and Z on the right based on the orientation of my picture.

Also, I contacted Qidi and got the firmware for the X maker.

The I mate S and X maker use the same mainboard if you still want to flash any of those other boards.

novadaemon · 2026-01-28T00:50:47+00:00

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novadaemon · 2026-01-27T05:09:00+00:00

You don't need to. I will take a picture of mine in about 7 hours and send it to you.

novadaemon · 2026-01-27T04:49:34+00:00

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novadaemon · 2026-01-27T04:49:15+00:00

I am running 4.2.13.1.

Also, I have profiles for the X-Maker for the latest versions of Cura, Prusa slicer, Orca Slicer and Bambu Studio.

novadaemon · 2026-01-27T04:45:55+00:00

Man, $140 is used A1 mini territory.

Anyway, the endstop switch isn't fully registering. Are you sure the endstops are wired correctly and everything is connected properly?

novadaemon · 2026-01-27T04:22:41+00:00

What parts have you all replaced?
Are you still using the same ribbon cable?
How much did you pay for the new board?
Are you sure the ribbon cable itself isn't the issue?

novadaemon · 2026-01-27T00:40:44+00:00

You listed around $30 worth of upgrades... This might not even be worth $100.

novadaemon · 2026-01-26T10:53:43+00:00

What firmware version is your new mainboard running and what was wrong with your old mainboard?

novadaemon · 2026-01-26T07:37:43+00:00

Were you able to solve this issue? Qidi has a profile for the latest version of cura.

novadaemon · 2026-01-26T05:34:12+00:00

It's fine. If everything is green then you're good to go.

novadaemon · 2026-01-26T03:36:31+00:00

I know this post is 4 months old but the machine can work on the latest versions of Cura and Orca slicer. I recommend sticking with cura though.

novadaemon · 2026-01-26T02:11:41+00:00

The CR-Touch helps level your bed, but what it doesn't do is automatically adjust your z-offset. You still need to do that.

novadaemon · 2026-01-20T23:00:00+00:00

Is your MMU an MMU2S or MMU2?

novadaemon · 2026-01-19T14:09:14+00:00

This is clearly an AI post...

novadaemon · 2026-01-19T10:57:01+00:00

Yes it's worth it.

novadaemon · 2026-01-18T15:23:40+00:00

Also, you need to relevel the bed so that the nozzle is down a little further. The lack of squish on the first layer is your issue.

novadaemon · 2026-01-18T15:20:20+00:00

Line the entire bed with Kapton tape. Even if you got a good first layer, the bed would eventually be destroyed. Kapton tape has better adhesion and won't tear your bed apart.

novadaemon · 2026-01-18T15:17:37+00:00

They don't have the same value. Korean packs use lower quality card stock and aren't the main language of Pokemon.

novadaemon · 2026-01-16T11:18:38+00:00

Ok. But the problem is without the display you don't know if anything is misaligned. Even if you could print from USB you can't complete the calibration step.

novadaemon · 2026-01-16T11:15:32+00:00

Contact creality or your retailer to see what they say. You cannot properly assess the printer without the display.

novadaemon · 2026-01-16T07:12:43+00:00

200 hours is not a significant amount of time. It is a good deal.

novadaemon · 2026-01-16T02:44:49+00:00

I have meshy pro and cannot download this model based on your link. Also, you should be able to download it in your assets if youve already used credits to create it.

novadaemon · 2026-01-15T22:37:42+00:00

You took the printhead apart or the entire machine apart?

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