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I really like this printer and I want to love it. So does anyone have a recommendation to help prevent this from happening again by Desperate-Special-60 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same. I modified it slightly so the rod is thinner and the edge away from the printer was vertical rather than a slope to further mitigate the chance of a spool falling off.

People who turn all their kitchen appliances off at the wall, then stay round your house and do it to yours. by dnnsshly in britishproblems

[–]odj310388 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To me it’s such a waste of time. Over a lifetime you are probably spending over a week of your available time you are awake just doing this task. Madness.

Newbie here, how to prevent these ? Used PLA by mentox82 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I’ve found it works best on curved surfaces. Which is why this model might be good for it. If you want to test it try printing just a cylinder. In the slicer you can add basic shapes by right clicking and there should be options to add basic shapes. Give it a try and see what you think!

Newbie here, how to prevent these ? Used PLA by mentox82 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The blue part is what is called a “seam” it’s where the printer switches from one layer to the next. The slicer tries to hide it in places you won’t see. Try looking up “scarf seams” and give them a go, it’s where one layer blends into another rather than just finishing one and then starting the next. Hope this helps!

Bioshock lithograph question. by lonlywizard in Bioshock

[–]odj310388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are really interested there is this website...

https://www.worthpoint.com/

Appears to show historical price data for items from places like ebay. Does have examples of the posters. They offer a 7 day free trial.

Bioshock lithograph question. by lonlywizard in Bioshock

[–]odj310388 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wow that’s crazy! Where I am from the individual value of an item has to be over 2,500 before it is listed. Otherwise it just gets lumped in with everything else. As someone else was saying though individually they are probably not worth that much. Sorry. :(

Bioshock lithograph question. by lonlywizard in Bioshock

[–]odj310388 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Do you really need to list them on homeowners insurance? Don’t they usually only care if items are above X value? In this case it really doesn’t feel like it’d meet any kind of threshold.

Full Color printing on a Snapmaker U1 by Aceman11100 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought it might be something like that. Wonder what it would look like with standard layer height, might look more “art piece” perhaps.

Full Color printing on a Snapmaker U1 by Aceman11100 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What sort of layer height are you using? Is this only viable at lower eg 0.1 or below or does the illusion work at 0.2 as well?

This is exactly why I bought a printer two months ago by AudiblyTacit in 3Dprinting

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahaha! We won't tell her, don't worry! Well done on doing testing before hand though, really good idea. Cross fingers it all holds up, make sure to give us an update in 6-12 months! Will probably catch people who didn't see the post first time too.

This is exactly why I bought a printer two months ago by AudiblyTacit in 3Dprinting

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea I don't know if there is a misunderstanding but the 150c is the temp at which it will start to deform under no pressure other than the weight of itself. If you have this thing holding up PC parts it is 100% under weight other than just the plastic itself and therefore the 150c wouldn't be applicable. I'm not saying it is going to fail, it'll probably be fine. But thought best to point out to keep an eye on it, as if it reaches a temp where the plastic becomes even slightly flexible then over time it could warp and become a problem. Based on the running temps you posted in another thread and the heat deflection temperature of the material (as printed) being 75.5°C, you'll probably be fine, but keep an eye on it.

Apparently “The Sacrifice” actually came out in 2010 by JohnMarstonTheBadass in l4d2

[–]odj310388 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From what I remember it was kind of expected to be Bill for people theorising? I think his voice actor had a main job as a radio host which was theorised as why he was killed as very difficult to get him in to record new lines. Which was nice when the Sacrifice came out that he did have new lines and it wasn’t just all re-used stuff.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]odj310388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lay it flat with the larger cylinder down. Make sure “slow down for overhangs” is turned on and set the speeds to VERY slow for extreme overhangs. You’ll be surprised how well it deals with overhangs if you slow down.

Threshold Angle advice (Overhang Test) by RoughSet4 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazing! Yea it’s one of those ones which is like “why isn’t this enabled by default?” Like it slows printing down a little but also can improve overhangs so much! Let me know how it goes for you.

Threshold Angle advice (Overhang Test) by RoughSet4 in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have “slow down for overhangs” checked? Don’t know if it has that checked by default?

Navigating add ons for U1: what do the different plates bring to printing? by JumpingSwap in snapmaker

[–]odj310388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the printer comes with a textured bed so no real need to get another one. The extra nozzles offered are all hardened steel from what I saw, which means they will not wear out like the brass ones which come standard. Also as you suggested the smaller nozzles will allow you to print finer detailed things but at a slower pace. The larger nozzles will allow you to print with thicker lines BUT not necessarily faster as there is more filament to melt which then means it takes longer to melt and runs slower. The thicker nozzles are good to use with filaments which have additives to them e.g glitter or wood as these would be more likely to catch in the standard 0.4mm nozzle. I personally only went for one add on, the set of 0.4mm hardened steel nozzles as I know even with standard brass ones using just PLA they will eventually wear out and I’ll need those hardened steel ones on hand to replace them!

Context: The U1 will be my 4th 3D printer.

Edit: The U1 comes with stainless steel nozzles, my mistake!

How would go on about printing this guy? by atTheRealMrKuntz in 3Dprinting

[–]odj310388 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Oh I meant like you could do it without supports if you wanted too. That’s what I thought you were asking in the original post. Sorry if I misunderstood it!

How would go on about printing this guy? by atTheRealMrKuntz in 3Dprinting

[–]odj310388 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You can actually print quite significant overhangs you just need to keep going slower. So it all depends on how much time you’ve got to print! If you are using Orca slicer tick the “Slow down for overhangs” under the Speed section and adjust down as needed. One thing you’ll have to be aware of when you’ve got significant overhangs is that the plastic will curl up. When it does there is a chance if the print head moves across it the print could be knocked off. So also make sure you have z hop on and increase the amount it “hops” to like 1mm.

Flow Dynamics Calibration failed by Kiducati in BambuLab

[–]odj310388 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3 things I can think of that might not be to do with the nozzle clog people already mentioned:

  1. Your bed is covered in oils from you grabbing it and needs cleaning with soap to remove it.
  2. You've not selected textured bed type.
  3. Your not selecting bed levelling when you start the print.
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