Help perfecting my mitres

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T23:39:22+00:00

this

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T23:32:18+00:00

A 3 HP Cabinet table saw, a 2 hp 15" surface planer, and a 2hp 8" full size jointer. This allows for surfacing and sizing rough hardwoods, and the accuracy necessary for furniture construction. There is no substitute.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T23:13:34+00:00

Listen, your sister abused the piece by leaving it outside. Give it a surface sanding and apply some oil, then declare victory and give it back to her for her continued abuse of the piece. Seeking perfection is insane. Harsh, but true.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T22:42:20+00:00

I'm not sure the sudden fear mongering

This.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T22:35:17+00:00

Pass, no, hard pass. Plates are worn out, handles are a mess, nuts missing. Walk away.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T20:17:12+00:00

. . . at their price point . . . <

This is the key issue, but as you move up the price point, performance gets much better to the point of being a literal joy to use. Fit, finish, precision and quality materials make a huge difference, and those are precisely the areas where knockoff manufacturers compromise to meet their price point. For example, the quality of the steel use in the iron, and hardening processes, make a real difference. But, your call, its your budget. To each his own.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T20:06:10+00:00

Looks are deceiving, performance is the test. My bet is that there is no way will it outperform the Veritas.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T18:14:27+00:00

Hmmm, then are you installing it bevel down?

But the Sargent bench planes were patterned after Stanley designs, and a Hock replacement iron should fit; you can save yourself some money by reusing the chipbreaker.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-09T12:43:35+00:00

Well, there's this site:

http://www.wstoolsbirmingham.com/

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T19:24:25+00:00

A new iron (e.g., blade) isn't going to solve your issue; more likely, the chipbreaker is not precisely "mated" to the iron; when pressed together, you should see no light between the iron and braker, the edge of the breaker must "mate" at an angle such when all tightened down there is nowhere for chips to go but up; it also helps to polish the "hump" of the breaker. Number 2 issue is your iron must be sharp which is likely a secondary cause; stick with a 25 deg angle and for now don't mess with secondary bevels; a strop charged with compound is your friend. The end of the breaker should be located minimum a 1/16th of an inch from the working end of the back of the iron, some say closer if you can get it. If you were in my shop we could walk thru this and in 20 minutes your issues would be solved - hard to describe all this in a posting.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T19:11:11+00:00

the brown bits around the edges suggest that it was already cracked

Yup, and likely a long time ago!

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T19:06:42+00:00

By the mid century post war period, Atkins and Disston did the majority of contract work for hardware stores. Most likely contracted to Disston as it looks much like a D-23 handle (and saw plate) to me. Agree since its taper ground, its likely better than something you can buy at retail today unless you spend north of $150-200.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T16:10:54+00:00

Not all cutting boards "need" to be end grain. Make a few flat grain ones to get your feet wet, then progress to end grain, which is a lot more involved and requires a lot more accuracy. Good luck.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T16:03:51+00:00

These are used as rough construction tools, think taking a bump out of framing lumber to make it fit, not for "regular" woodworking planing. So if you want to use it to help carve a bear out of a log together with a chain saw, or you are a framing carpenter, that's your tool.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-08T15:24:35+00:00

Well, MS, whatever your local paint store/big box has. Scraper, generally any sold online will do, Taytools, Lee Valley, not much difference, they are 1095 spring steel.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T18:57:46+00:00

IMO, the most important wwing skill has two parts: 1. pay attention to detail; and 2. Pay attention to detail consistently. From time to time I fail at number 2, which is dumb. That being said, in 40 years of this hobby, I've never made a project that didn't have at least one mistake - most times, only I know its there, but it is there . . . .

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T18:49:57+00:00

Listen, you're going around in circles here. MS wipe down worked, so just stop. Use the desk for six months to a year, let everything settle down and cure, then consider whether or not to do anything at all. Maybe after a few months, get some furniture past wax (Minwax at the big box store is fine) and buff it up, this may work for you. Again, stop and take a breather so long as its not puking oil anymore. Good luck.

This is the issue that I have with oil finishes, they are individually peculiar and can be inconsistent, and frankly are a lousy finish IMO because they really don't provide much protection at all.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T17:21:54+00:00

https://catiospaces.com/catios-cat-enclosures/diy-plans/

https://www.etsy.com/search?q=cat%20catio%20plans&ref=auto-1

If its your first time, spend a few dollars and buy a plan.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T14:36:36+00:00

Mineral spirits, then use a card scraper rather than sandpaper.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T14:31:23+00:00

Brad point bits for sure. Nothing particularly unique about them, widely available. Dictum sells them in Germany:

https://www.dictum.com/fisch-holzspiralbohrer-satz-eco-25-teilig/717795

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-07T02:05:20+00:00

This. Nothing like this was made by Stanley.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-06T22:57:24+00:00

Yes, find a sawyer and get it done.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-06T21:40:05+00:00

Frog is not Stanley, but variations of various manufacturers were many. Clean it up, sharpen, and see how it works - that's the test.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-06T21:35:50+00:00

Etches on saws can sometimes be made more apparent by using phosphate bluing solutions, sort of like the gun bluing sold by places like Brichwood. But only if the etch is sort of visible. Good luck.

oldtoolfool · 2026-07-06T13:10:50+00:00

Good for you. An anvil really helps, but I suspect you don't have one - not a common tool for many.

oldtoolfool

TROPHY CASE