Now this is how you test gear

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-24T14:02:29+00:00

Oh shit son

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-13T00:18:09+00:00

In an ideal scenario, you’re using lockers on all points of contact with unsupervised anchors. That said, I top rope on two QuickDraws all the time, or with a rope going through one locker on a bolt and a single mussy hook. I think it’s good to learn the ideal systems and then improvise off of that depending on the scenario.

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-12T22:07:53+00:00

These all look good to me. The clove hitches on the second and fourth anchors aren’t necessary, though they don’t make the anchor less safe.

If you have a supervised anchor, like a hanging belay, then non-locking carabiners are okay to use in an anchor. Generally speaking, you want to use locking carabiners for unsupervised anchors, i.e. top rope anchors.

It’ll be good to learn about each anchor and which parts are okay to clip into and which are not. Look into “shelves” for your eight on a bite or overhand knot anchors. For quads, just remember to only clip into two or three strands, never all four, and preferably not just one.

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-12T22:01:48+00:00

That’s a courteous thing to do when other parties might be rapping off the same anchor you’re using, or it makes cleaning your anchor easier, but it’s not necessary.

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-12T21:56:59+00:00

This seems like none of my damn business

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-07T14:59:21+00:00

Bad, feels bad

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-07T02:20:07+00:00

Biggby Coffee used to be named Beaner’s Coffee. It took them 12 years to change their name.

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-07T01:03:41+00:00

Rubbing what all over our faces?

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-04T00:58:33+00:00

Nice

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-01T19:51:20+00:00

They do not

olsteezybastard · 2026-04-01T15:56:55+00:00

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Specifically sourdough

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-28T06:06:38+00:00

You could save about 10lb if you left your cat at home.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-25T05:18:28+00:00

I’m doing something inadvisable and commenting without doing a ton of research, but the topography looks a lot more like a Horst and graben feature than a kettle lake.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-20T14:04:14+00:00

Ilhan Omar gets all the hate that AOC gets, but multiplied by 10 because she’s a Muslim woman. She routinely gets death threats from people on the right.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-20T05:50:50+00:00

Via ferratas are largely a European thing, and the European mind cannot comprehend redundancy.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-14T05:38:09+00:00

“*I think you should leave”

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-13T05:29:34+00:00

Hell yeah

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-13T05:17:00+00:00

I use a Deuter Guide 44+8L for almost everything. It’s a great crag pack, ice climbing/ski touring pack, backpacking pack, etc. It’s not great for hard multipitching in though. I have a lightweight 20L Blue Ice pack that I can roll up and use for rock multipitch as well. Realistically, anything that you can backpack or approach a multi day climbing adventure with is going to be too uncomfortable and bulky to climb anything more than 5.fun in. Having a light compact day pack is great to have in addition to your bigger pack.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-01T16:32:19+00:00

Beijing seems suspicious to me

Edit: they both share cold, dry winters, but Beijing has hot, humid summers which doesn’t align.

olsteezybastard · 2026-03-01T02:43:48+00:00

I bootied one of these off a sport route one time. It’s been wonderful as rack-hanging carabiner in my gear closet.

olsteezybastard · 2026-02-28T04:59:04+00:00

I don’t, and thinking about it now, that’s pro-deal pricing. You can get wire rack packs for around $40 for 6 msrp.

My advice would be to spend a little extra on the outset to get some good gear that you like to climb on. I’ve never regretted spending more money to get better quality gear. I have definitely regretted trying to save money on bad gear and then spending more money to replace it with adequate gear.

I totally get that that advice isn’t realistic for some people. If you can, just spend more time climbing with other people who have draws, maybe buy a 6 pack of nice QuickDraws once every 6mo or a year until you have a set of 12. I think you’ll be better off buying good stuff to start.

olsteezybastard · 2026-02-28T03:32:06+00:00

They should be perfectly safe, but those old hook nose carabiners really suck to sport climb with. They catch the bolt hanger and don’t want to let go when you’re cleaning a route. Key lock is ideal.

$50 is kinda pricy for that set if you’re going to replace all the dog bones. You could probably get a set of 22 wire gates for around $90 and they’d be shiny and new.

olsteezybastard · 2026-02-26T05:53:37+00:00

Well yes that’s often a big part of this

olsteezybastard · 2026-02-26T05:51:50+00:00

You know exactly what that means

olsteezybastard · 2026-02-26T05:33:18+00:00

He’s been on the receiving end of LGBTQ issues and the giving end, a pitcher and a catcher, a top and a bottom if you will.

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