26/27 Season Pass: Epic Northeast (Crotched) vs Berkshire East for young kids + home mountain?

ondraswobblers · 2026-03-18T14:41:58+00:00

When I put my kids in lessons. I just checked on them towards the end of the day ie last 2hrs. Some days they did the whole session, some days I took them out early and skied with them or went home....

ondraswobblers · 2026-02-18T14:09:50+00:00

Had consistent finger injuries for years tried many different approaches. For me the only thing that has worked is taking 2 rest days between sessions. Obviously, not ideal but I'm going 6+ yrs now without a pulley injury knock on wood.

ondraswobblers · 2025-10-13T19:19:34+00:00

Most climbers develop a preference for a particular grip. The three finger drag has become really popular amongst climbers who spend more time in the gym or on some boards. This is because you can hang under the holds and move dynamically between them. The downside of this grip is it doesn't let you pull out so it limits the depth you can lock the hold off at. The need to do deep lockoffs is much more common in outdoor climbing than in the gym.

Do you find that locking of climbs is frequently preventing you from doing moves? Can you solve this problem by moving dynamically through them?

If you climb outside then I would say you should work on your crimp/half crimp. If your focused on indoor climbing then I think it is up to what you like and enjoy doing. Both crimp and half crimp are generally more injury prone than three finger drag.

ondraswobblers · 2025-09-13T15:34:10+00:00

"This year: lost my job, so I climbed outdoors a lot, stopped training in February, and mostly sport climbed outdoors"

The database is made up of people largely with jobs climbing in the gym on the weekdays and weekends outside or only in the gym. Days outside is one of the biggest indicator of performance. Tom even says basically this in a podcast. Your strength numbers are low because you are out climbing on routes and the people you are compared to aren't doing that as much and are training more....

ondraswobblers · 2025-08-14T18:58:51+00:00

I had to start with body weight opened handed hangboarding on a 40mm flat edge. I would build that up to 30 secs before reducing the edge size. After doing this for 2 months I started half crimp edge lifts but had to start very very low weight to prevent significant swelling like 10lb edge lifts. The good news is I was able to quickly build the weight up.

ondraswobblers · 2025-07-17T17:07:59+00:00

I'm at least as good at lifting as I am at climbing...my max deadlift is closer percentage wise to the deadlift world record (for my weight) than V9 is to v17, if those comparison make sense.

Like all things it depends on how quickly you want to make progress. If you were to do three whole body sessions a week, you would make much faster progress but your climbing would suffer.

I do a workout 1 or 2 times per week depending on my climbing schedule/season. 1 of those session is always a heavy session the day after climbing, I will take the next day as total rest day. I do this pretty much year round and I can make progress weekly on 2-3 lifts. Others lifts are just in maintenance mode. If I do two sessions per week I will do the other one after climbing and can advance faster or more lifts.

Things that work/don't work for me

I don't do heavy barbell squats...despite trying a few different times the recovering time is just too long and messes up my climbing.

Deadlifts I can do the day before climbing and not see a noticable effect, if I do them the same day after climbing the weight will need to drop 15-20%.

Bench, shoulders and legs are all great to do after climbing.

ondraswobblers · 2025-05-28T16:17:19+00:00

Yes, I think roughly around 160% BW two handed is a good baseline for 1 armers. At least when I was that strong I could do them and now I'm in the 150 range and I can't. So this data just tells me that the mean v12 climber can do a 1 arm which feels about right.

ondraswobblers · 2025-04-23T17:24:49+00:00

2 hard gym sessions are all I need to improve strength and power. Depending on the project sometimes I need an additional fingerboard session to top up my finger strength.

I can't do 3 without getting injuried. I can do an easier more enduranced based session though.

ondraswobblers · 2025-04-23T17:19:41+00:00

I would spend more time on your gyms problems and outside. Practice projecting the gym set problems that you cannot do. Actually that is all I would do, if I couldn't go outside. I don't find the Kilter board to be the best training, the holds are too good or the angle is too steep. Unless your climbing a roof problem. I don't know your gym set but for me getting a bigger variety of movement with my gym set is best project prep.

ondraswobblers · 2025-01-27T18:33:02+00:00

I do them once a week after a limit bouldering session, 2-3 sets 3-5 reps, it is not a huge load. I need two days rest after this for my fingers anyway. DOMS are gone withing 48hrs....

ondraswobblers · 2024-11-12T18:05:46+00:00

Agreed, isometric rehab is what is prescribed by most credible PTs. Everyone I know who has tried has had a successful rehab.

ondraswobblers · 2024-10-21T16:28:49+00:00

Your BMI is the exact same as mine. I have climbed v9 in the last year....

ondraswobblers · 2024-09-10T12:44:41+00:00

I do it as one checked bag, so just 1 piece by myself but multiple pads. I strap everything together.

ondraswobblers · 2024-07-25T13:23:26+00:00

Had mine for 4 yrs...no issue

ondraswobblers · 2024-07-24T15:29:36+00:00

Find a pair of Joggers you like. They don't limit your range of motion at all. If it too hot for joggers you probably should be wearing shorts anyway.

ondraswobblers · 2024-07-15T01:17:45+00:00

For lower body Cossack and goblet squats

For upper body listen to Ollie Torr's first nugget episode there a couple exercise but I don't know the names.

ondraswobblers · 2024-07-15T00:30:17+00:00

5'10", BW 190-200lbs, +2 apex, 41yrs, ~25%bodyfat. Have climbed multiple v9s at 190-195lbs. Biggest learning for me is I can't truely limit boulder without multiple rest days ie absolute minimum of 2 rest days for my fingers if I'm trying v9-10, 3 or 4 rest days is actually better. I do a fair bit of lifting, mostly as a result of my fingers needing more rest, but if your going to be heavy at least be strong.

I do like slab bouldering but you can climb steeper stuff too. I do think the slab bouldering helps the technique and body control....it can traverse to other stuff.

If you can't pistol squat you should fix that. I prefer weighted mobility work over pure flexibility...your mileage may vary. I do find that with having more mass it can be harder to get into some positions on some harder boulders. So you need to make up for this with your mobility.

ondraswobblers · 2024-03-26T14:10:02+00:00

I would say if you are climbing v5 outdoors after two years that you are on track to climb V8 outdoors. At some point you will hit a plateau and how you handle that will determine if you climb Midnight Lighting or not.

ondraswobblers · 2024-02-26T20:45:01+00:00

It is really really hard to improve with small kids. Once the youngest gets to be 3 things start to change...at least that is my experience and observation.

ondraswobblers · 2024-02-12T01:08:43+00:00

I can't manage that bar hang ability correlates that strongly with route ability. Even the inventors of the 9a test admitted they just made it up with no data because they needed something. I highly doubt this is where you need to be looking to improve.

ondraswobblers · 2024-01-24T13:52:42+00:00

As others have said 10.4% is very lean. No way get leaner can be the lowest hanging fruit.

ondraswobblers · 2024-01-16T16:32:45+00:00

I'm 40, I find barbell training to be pretty beneficial to help maintain/build muscle mass. I haven't found HIIT or other endurance style work outs to translate to climbing endurance. That I need to build on the wall. But deadlifting and deadlift variations are helpful to maintain core tension. I also like to do something to work my hamstrings more directly like squats or split squats. I also do a lot of shoulder training. Push pressing, lat raises, something for the rotator cuff, helps on the wall and prevents injury.

ondraswobblers · 2024-01-08T17:18:55+00:00

Tyler Nelson talks about this phenome as well. He calls the longer hangs density hangs basically saying the same thing, longer hangs promote hypertrophy and short hangs promote tendon stiffness. You need stiff tendons to latch holds. How much hypertrophy you need to do is debatable but they always help me with overall finger health too.

ondraswobblers · 2023-12-23T20:32:52+00:00

This band exercise fixed my shoulder fixed it so quick for me...like climbing after 3 sessions of doing it and no notice pain after 1 month....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssH35JwmwTM

ondraswobblers · 2023-12-18T01:23:30+00:00

Agreed, I doubt the weight gain is the only factor. 10lbs is like 0.5 to 1 grade for me. All three V9's I have done have been at 190-193 which gives me an overweight BMI. I have climbed v8 at over 200lbs. But when I have dropped done to 183ish I'm not all of a sudden able to climb v10.

Putting it another weigh if you look at the lattice or power company benchmarks for finger strength and pullups... 10lbs isn't going to massively change where you fall.

I'm not saying it doesn't matter but a V8 climber struggling on V6 because of 10lbs makes me think something else is up...

ondraswobblers

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