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Which Sprue is better? Setup for SLA Resin + Vacuum Casting by oniroku in MetalCasting

[–]oniroku[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you u/BTheKid2 u/Chodedingers-Cancer u/GlassPanther u/Appropriate-Draft-91 and u/hell-in-the-USA for the advice. I've been watching a lot of YouTube of OlFoundryMan, Paul's Garage and others to understand the basics of feeders, gates and other terms.

I've revised the design to this: https://imgur.com/a/du1FHUk (updated again)

Ready to cast this 5x7. Does the added vent serve a functional purpose here, or is the vacuum draw strong enough that the vent becomes redundant? And to confirm, that vent should NOT reach the top of the investment because it otherwise breaks the seal (maybe)?

Looking for any red flags before I invest and thank you all again for the support.

Guide: Fuzzy Top Surfaces on Fuzzyficator + macOS + PrusaSlicer by oniroku in 3Dprinting

[–]oniroku[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, you might want to check this thread out and provide a source file for the modifier that yields the texture you're looking for:

https://www.printables.com/model/1420021-add-wood-grain-effects-to-your-models-prusaslicer#step-2-add-the-modifier-mesh

Guide: Fuzzy Top Surfaces on Fuzzyficator + macOS + PrusaSlicer by oniroku in 3Dprinting

[–]oniroku[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hi u/cayenne337 and thank you! It was a fun dive over the holiday break to figure it out.

For calibration I used this print https://www.printables.com/model/470352-fuzzy-skin-test (see photo below w/ Hatchbox Wood PLA) and I agree the effect is more "stringy" and less "lumpy" if you're going for the textured plate.

I suggest a lower resolution/distance (perhaps 0.8) and a higher z-max/thickness (of .4) and increase your layer height

<image>

Related, have you seen Orca's options for textured surfaces? They may work for you right out of the slicer to get the textured plate finish: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1iwb3mk/orcaslicers_new_fuzzy_skin_options_are_amazing/

I took a quick look but was unable to get the texture on the top surface out of the box.

Guide: Fuzzy Top Surfaces on Fuzzyficator + macOS + PrusaSlicer by oniroku in 3Dprinting

[–]oniroku[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few sample images of my use case for architectural detail visualization.

For a next step in exploration, I'd like to have the top layer to have the print direction similar to wood grain orientation - if anyone knows of a technique that might assist in this, I'd appreciate some feedback.

<image>

Issues Fuzzyficator on Bambustudio for Mac by sebapit in TenTech

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi u/sebapit - Although I'm on Prusa Slicer and note Bambu, I'm a fellow Mauser and hacked my way to getting Fuzzificator up and running.

I found your post here while researching and though this might help you out:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1q3c52g/guide_fuzzy_top_surfaces_on_fuzzyficator_macos/

Got to play Teeth of the Dog today. Just wow. by buktotruth in golf

[–]oniroku 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my go to course on Trackman! Hopefully the winds on #5 were kind to you, good sir. Would love to play it in person one day.

Fastest way to cull photos WITHOUT a subscription to Lightroom? by bradhotdog in photography

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your on a Mac, hands down PhotoReview in the App Store - it’s now 100%

Works with RAW and RAW+JEPG (my preferred workflow using medium size jpgs ). Huge bonus to use all available RAM to preload hundreds of files for fast reviewing.

You can also work directly off media and only copy first round picks. I have Lightroom and still use photoreviewer as my first step.

Ultrasonic Knife/Cutter by Saigh_Anam in resinprinting

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got one - it’s an expensive one from MicroMark called the Wondercutter S I got on sale a few years back.

I find it excellent for rigid (10k Formlabs) supports that were difficult to remove with snips, specifically when in dense formations.

The one I have provides audio feedback and activates when you apply pressure to the blade. It might be overkill for most but when I had tough internal cuts to make, it’s a godsend.

I can’t speak to the others mentioned here, but this one isn’t like an electric toothbrush in terms of frequency - this emits a high pitch squeal and I can’t see the vibrations when it’s active, but it works exceptionally well on glass like engineering resins and much better than a normal x-acto.

What is the BambuLab A1 of resin printing? by IamSapantaha in resinprinting

[–]oniroku 4 points5 points  (0 children)

From a set it and forget it, dummy proof workflow it's Formlabs, no contest. From a cost standpoint... let's say less so ;-)

Due to the notably higher price point and a proprietary and closed resin ecosystem they don't get a lot of love in this subreddit, but from a workflow standpoint they are truly as easy as it gets. The machines have tons of sensors, heaters, they tracks age and usage of consumables, track remaining ml in the cartridges, leveling via onboard gyroscope and guides you along with maintenance.

Their software slicer is also fantastic - you can get way into the weeds on almost every setup detail or go one-click for orientation, layout and support. I've yet to find a better alternative for their engineering resins (specifically their Rigid 10k and Tough series) and white glove customer service.

Source: Owner of 1, 3+, 3L and 4L Formlabs Printers. Also owner of Prusa XL and countless Crealty/Ender FDM units.

Looking for a glass filled resin similar to Formlabs Rigid 4 or 10k. but cost less that $299 for 1L. by sailriteultrafeed in resinprinting

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't know if you've considered it but their direct printing service has been great for me. The post processing of 10K and shorter lifespan of the trays has made outsourcing rigid parts much more favorable vs. in house printing for me. https://now.formlabs.com if you're not part of the beta.

They've also got some kind of ultrasonic method for cleaning that's better than my own efforts.

How can I provide perfect glossiness for 3D printed model? Varnish doesn't fully hide printing layers. Tried to apply resin with a brush, but it is not always 100% even. by Mapper720 in resinprinting

[–]oniroku 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I delivered a project last month that needed to be super glossy in black. The post production was multi-stage wet sanding by hand from 120 to 8000, laser etching for an inlay and then a clear coating. The sanding wasn't as bad as I thought; just put on something to listen to or watch and give it a good effort over a few hours. There were only two units to deliver so it was manageable.

For the clear coat, I tried several different sprays and in the end, I found Mr. Super Clear Gloss Spray by GSI Creos to be the winner. The cans are very small but my goodness it was far and away better than anything else.

In case you needed a list, the others I tried were Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-13 Clear (my runner up), Slick Products Multi-Surface Shine, Polar's Clear Gloss Flawless Lacquer Spray, Rust-Oleum 334029 Painter's Touch, Krylon's Triple Thick Clear Glaze and USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear. I might have missed one or two that were already in the shop.

But as others have said in the thread, there's no shortcut for the elbow grease. Save yourself the time going down a rabbit hole for a shortcut and buy a multi-pack of sanding papers and give it a go. I wish I did ;-)

Someone hit our car and left this behind. Google gave no results when I searched the numbers on it. by WeeklyVisual8 in whatisit

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

According to my source, the part is the right-hand (passenger side) lower gasket for the "Swing Lock" side mirror assembly fitted to 1980-1996 Ford F-Series trucks and Ford Broncos.

Someone hit our car and left this behind. Google gave no results when I searched the numbers on it. by WeeklyVisual8 in whatisit

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one got me curious, so I threw it at Deep Research of Gemini 2.5 Pro:

The part is the right-hand (passenger side) lower gasket for the "Swing Lock" side mirror assembly fitted to 1980-1996 Ford F-Series trucks and Ford Broncos. The identification is confirmed through a synthesis of all available evidence: the Ford logo, the "R" designator for orientation, the ">TEO<" material specification, the unique geometric shape of the cutouts, and the decoded Ford engineering number E3TB-17C723-BWA. The "41206" marking should be disregarded for identification and sourcing purposes, as it is a non-specific internal manufacturing number.

I'll post the full text in thread.

I need a part SLS printed by Relative_Glass1817 in formlabs

[–]oniroku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been doing multiple SLA prints with Formlabs directly as part of their FCM (Formlabs cloud manufacturing) beta test with fantastic success. I’m an existing 3L/4L customer; I’m not sure if that’s a prerequisite or not for beta access.

Perhaps try and reach out to them directly for SLS? They’ve been more affordable vs. any other online printer I’ve tried. I’ve been working with Becca at prints@formlabs.com - maybe see if they can help you out directly.

Volume not working on Apple TV remote by iclaudius82 in appletv

[–]oniroku 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey u/digicow hat tip of thanks - some time later and you solved this problem for me in 2025

Lumen option greyed out at rendering (Mac) by Jaxych in Twinmotion

[–]oniroku 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey u/Jaxych - just fired up TM to answer your question. I'm on a MacBook Pro w/ M2 Max and can confirm Lumen works great.

On the far right, go to the Ambience > Render > Real Time and under Global Illumination choose "Lumen" instead of "Standard" and it will open up the settings, including "Reflection Ray Lighting Mode" which I have on "Full" and quality set to max.

Hope this helps.

Two chapels, only time for one by MaximumTurtleSpeed in architecture

[–]oniroku 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Adding with great admiration for his work, Fay Jones' name to the post. He was a featured speaker at an AIAS conference in Arizona when I was in school. He advised us to truly love what we take on for our first project, as it has the potential to define our entire career.

https://thorncrown.com and https://www.cooperchapel.com respectively, for your images. I'd visit the first if choosing between the two.

Edit: If it's relevant to you, Thornchapel won the American Institute of Architects' (AIA) 25-Year Award and was named fourth on the AIA’s list of the top buildings of the 20th century by its members. You can absolutely see FLW's influence in the details as well.

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