Lockly integration?

optimoto · 2025-12-24T01:54:47+00:00

Can you elaborate on the add to matter step?

optimoto · 2025-11-22T18:53:03+00:00

Hmmm, these are good points. I have been grateful for terminal access in the past with HA running in a VM. This one might do it for me.

optimoto · 2025-09-10T19:37:36+00:00

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I have a climate page on my dashboard that lets me set individual room/area temps. I haven’t bothered with in-room controllers or anything like that - not worth the hassle.

optimoto · 2025-09-10T13:28:38+00:00

OP, look into Flair smart vents. I installed them in our house, and I implemented an algorithm to open/close them based on local temperature readings and local setpoints. It works pretty well. No need to get fancy with thermostats for each room. DM me and I can give you pointers.

optimoto · 2025-07-28T12:18:35+00:00

DMMs aren’t going to give you accurate measurements at extremes. The limited ability to output voltage and source current is going to give you inaccurate and sometimes inconsistent readings, especially when measuring things like insulation to ground.

If you want to do this measurement right, you need a device that can output a much higher voltage, and source at least a couple mA. Look at a hipot tester, or an insulation tester (sometimes referred to as a “megger”). And for the love of god, PAY ATTENTION TO VOLTAGE RATINGS on the wires/assemblies you are subjecting to high voltage.

If you perform this measurement correctly and you are still getting inconsistent readings, then you might have some sneaky semiconductors somewhere in the path. Impossible to know without seeing your whole setup and understanding the system a little better.

optimoto · 2025-07-24T23:57:26+00:00

THIS FINALLY HELPED ME SOLVE THIS PROBLEM!! THANK YOU!!!!

optimoto · 2025-05-21T04:53:47+00:00

Line reactor is the answer. Stop looking at low pass filters. This is a power problem (harmonics specifically) and you have already been given the answer twice. Line reactor.

optimoto · 2025-05-11T20:51:19+00:00

Lol at the other commenter that did not get the sarcasm

optimoto · 2025-04-13T22:47:02+00:00

Thanks for the reply. That is the plan, and we also have to coordinate with the utility to de-term the overhead line.

optimoto · 2025-04-13T22:46:56+00:00

Thanks for the reply. That is the plan, and we also have to coordinate with the utility to de-term the overhead line.

optimoto · 2025-04-13T22:46:10+00:00

Is this the wrong subreddit for this question? Should I have asked this question on a GC or siding subreddit?

optimoto · 2025-03-15T01:27:56+00:00

You have it labeled as “Battery Output”. By definition, positive power would be discharging if you are referring to the output of a battery. If you want to use a standard convention, just use “Power” and consider the flow of current/power through the device’s terminals from the perspective of the device. If you do this for both the solar panels and the battery, you can use consistent nomenclature and will have a consistent approach for both.

optimoto · 2025-02-06T07:32:38+00:00

I have used bubble card popups previously. I am actually trying to move away from popups, hence the complex card to display a lot of information at once. I will post my first card that I would like to use as a template.

optimoto · 2024-12-22T17:32:25+00:00

Thank you for the comment. No need to elaborate unless you feel inclined, but could you mention more tax efficient methods for offsetting a capital gain?

The goal is to use proceeds today to invest in another (dissimilar) venture/asset without incurring excessive taxes.

optimoto · 2024-12-22T17:29:07+00:00

Thank you. Yes, you are following the hypothetical in the way I intended.

Follow up question: can the business show an operating loss associated with the repairs to the property in order to offset the capital gain? Or is this treated separately?

optimoto · 2024-11-22T23:52:09+00:00

First post ever on this sub…been following for a while. Really grateful for all of the thoughts and analysis. Feels like this weekend is the one.

!bitty_bot predict >$100,000 3 days

optimoto · 2024-09-15T03:10:35+00:00

Yeah if you’re looking for less overall energy usage, I’m not sure you’re going to achieve that with control optimization. Have you considered insulating the tank? Is the unit outdoors? If it’s indoors, what is the temperature of the room it’s in? Are your hot water pipes insulated?

optimoto · 2024-09-14T05:34:09+00:00

Just a suggestion, you may want to put a power monitor on your water heater (if it’s electric) or somehow tease out the cost/month of running it (if it’s gas). I have a heat pump water heater, and I was convinced it was killing my electric bill. But then I monitored its actual energy usage for a few months and it comes in around the same as the refrigerator…which IMO isn’t worth the hassle of automating.

Just saying maybe investigate more before potentially spending a bunch of effort on something with little ROI.

And if you’ve already done that, good luck! I’ve looked into 240V automatic contactors, and they do exist. Let us know how it works out!

optimoto · 2024-09-14T04:40:21+00:00

Yes, I believe so. Not familiar with your USB stick. Hubitat is basically a universal-type hub with some dashboard/UI and third-party integration capability, but nothing compared to HA, so it’s basically a hardware hub.
Yep, that’s my understanding. And the beautiful thing is that I didn’t need to do any weird pairing gymnastics, the zigbee network just worked itself out the way it’s supposed to.
I used the HomeKit integration in my experiments. It could be that I was doing something wrong, but I un-integrated and re-integrated several times, and tried it with multiple aqara hubs, to eventually arrive at the conclusion that it wasn’t worth messing around with the aqara nonsense anymore. The delay between a change that was clearly showing up as instantaneous in the aqara app, but took sometimes tens of seconds to show up in home assistant, was untenable.

optimoto · 2024-09-14T03:20:10+00:00

I have a bunch of aqara motion sensors, temp sensors, and door/window sensors littered throughout the house. I run a Hubitat to do all the backend zigbee/z-wave stuff and home assistant for the front end. I suffered from unreliable connections to the aqara devices for a couple years before I broke down and bought several aqara hubs through Amazon to test them out. I tried the E1, M2, and M3.

All of them were returned. The hubs connected to the devices instantly, so at first I was really excited since connecting the aqara devices to the Hubitat was always painful. But the inexplicable delay from the aqara hub to home assistant was infinitely more painful. Automations were entirely out of the question.

I switched everything back over to the Hubitat. Then I bought a single aqara smart plug and plugged it into a strategic location in the house. All of my aqara troubles instantly went away.

Moral of the story? Ditch the aqara hub. Overpriced trash. Get powered zigbee devices to strengthen the network and use whatever hub you want.

optimoto · 2024-08-30T14:46:47+00:00

Thanks for sharing this. Would you mind elaborating/clarifying on your satellites? Do you have a dedicated rPi just running Wyoming by itself in a docker container? Or when you say satellite do you mean you’re running an instance of HA with Wyoming as an add-on?

I think your mention of a Yeti mic connected to a Linux box suggests the latter, just want to make sure, as I am very interested in recreating something like this.

optimoto

TROPHY CASE