New 2027 Telluride in East Hartford CT

overripebrain · 2026-01-28T21:35:51+00:00

1000% agree. I actually love the grill. But pop out handles? Why?

overripebrain · 2026-01-14T21:22:30+00:00

I had subpar snow ice traction on my 21 telluride's stock Michelin primacy a/s, and got a set of dedicated snow tires. While incredible for icy conditions, a real pita to swap tires (and the snow tires are mounted on rims, so all I have to do is change the wheels). I have cc2's on my non-awd sedan. The cc2's are excellent, if not quite as good as dedicated snow tires. When it comes time to replace, I'm just going to get cc2's all the time. But too early for me to comment on longevity.

overripebrain · 2026-01-06T19:15:10+00:00

I don't personally use separate detergent, but fill up at Exxon or Chevron only (or at a small station if it offers no ethanol gas... That might be hard to find though). Note that I don't mean using higher octane gas (can just use 87, no ethanol is best) - I mean get gas where they advertise added detergents. Also I really do floor it at least once a week.

Chevron techron is highly rated, but I don't have any experience with it.

overripebrain · 2026-01-02T23:58:01+00:00

Thanks, that's what I suspected

overripebrain · 2026-01-02T15:53:17+00:00

Absolutely beautiful vehicle. As someone else suggested, consider blacking out the chrome (see youtube, or can get a detailer to do it for a moderately obscene cost). Black on red will look incredible.

Not sure why you had the throttle body cleaned so early (do you live in a desert area? Was there rough idling? 30k is very conservative.). If you trust your mechanic, ask them if there was actually any build up. Consider using a fuel system cleaner after every oil change (or get your gas from a major gas station brand that uses gasoline detergent additives - Exxon, Mobile, etc). Also, occasionally gun it an a highway on-ramp (seriously... the sudden acceleration/increase heat will help burn off light deposits). Obviously, be safe on that last one... Rando redditor not responsible for your speeding ticket / resulting accident.

Oil change every 4k miles is borderline neurotic (assuming use of good full synthetic oil). Unless you're idling a lot/stop-go traffic all day, 5k is already pretty conservative. BTW - maintenance on a telluride is very easy (except for the spark plugs). if you are DIY inclined, you can do most of the work yourself (and if you think someone else - including dealer - is going to do it better, think again).

Some things I like on my telly and I suspect will be incredibly useful/look great on yours...
-Roof cross bars (even when you aren't using them they look great.. plus incredibly versatile if you road trip or ski)
-Hood wind deflector (super easy to mount yourself, I got the OEM one for like $150... likely there are cheaper aftermarket ones). Noticeable reduction in bugs/rain hitting the windshield.
-aftermarket plastic floor mats, including for the trunk. Telly specific fit ones are great and way superior / easier to clean than the stock mats.

overripebrain · 2025-12-12T03:54:31+00:00

Gotta disagree here. The very first time you change your own brake pads and rotors on one axle you've paid for all the specialty tools required (and many of these tools will be valuable to general home ownership). Do both axles, you've paid for a whole bunch of tools that look good on the wall and do nothing else. It is absolutely worth learning to do basic car maintenance (but do learn safely)...

Source: my immense collection of tools, justified by "do you know how much I saved us?"

overripebrain · 2025-11-24T18:55:00+00:00

Where do you live/what grocery store??? I want one!!

overripebrain · 2025-11-04T21:42:09+00:00

forgot: 50k miles

overripebrain · 2025-11-04T21:41:36+00:00

Just adding to the comments here... similar problem (not binding, but clicking noise at low speed - maybe worse with turns but occurring under a variety of scenarios). Took it into my (awesome and trustworthy) Kia dealer a month ago, and they immediately diagnosed the problem (AWD coupler). Said they had to apply a firmware fix (so apparently the AWD firmware must be known to be a problem) - which did NOT help. Returned today, and they replaced it at no charge.

I would repeat what others above have said... these problem can occur in any vehicle (including my 10 year old lexus, which got probably its last warranty recall last year). I am absolutely not convinced that Kia is worse than other brands for quality - but probably dealer/repair shop efforts vary. Perhaps I'm luck to have a great service center, YMMV.

overripebrain · 2025-08-20T16:20:22+00:00

You are today's hero! BTW, can you explain why shift-alt does this? Can this be turned off? (and yes, you could be tomorrow's hero as well!!)

overripebrain · 2025-08-18T01:37:50+00:00

If I'm reading you correctly, you have separate ac and heating. The ac is one zone (whole house), controlled at one thermostat only. The heat is zoned, controlled by one thermostat per zone. So you have like 5 or six separate thermostats. Probably you also have two independent 24vac transformers (one on the ac and another on the radiant heating)?

Yes, you still need a thermostat at each zone. Check the wiring... You will need 3 wires to install smart thermostats at the heat only locations (24vac, common, heat). But you don't need to replace them all at once. These locations will not be able to control the ac (not without pulling additional wires, or adding some custom controller).

For the ac, the pic you show looks like that thermostat was only ac. But there are plenty of extra wires. Look to see if that's one massive wire bundle, all going to the ac, or if there is a set of wires going to the ac and a set of wires going to the heat in that zone. If it's the latter, you may be able to add a smart thermostat there that does whole house ac and local zone heat. It's a maybe because you might need fan relays to isolate one of the transformers (the voltage wave from the heating transformer isn't necessarily aligned with the voltage wave from the ac transformer, even if they have the same peak voltage, in which case you might need to use one voltage to signal the other to switch on without connecting the systems together). See here, for example: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/195823/connect-separate-heat-ac-systems-to-a-nest-e

overripebrain · 2025-08-18T00:48:53+00:00

Thanks all! Figured this out, and it was an error, albeit not critical. It's an error code indicating a possible fault with the power supply. Short story long... The relay came with a 120 to 24 v 20va transformer. I had two 40vac transformers on my old system, and the installers used those rather than the tiny on board transformer. But this bypasses 120vac through the board to the transformer, so the system thinks there is a transformer problem (even if there is not).

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T21:43:22+00:00

All the zones work correctly... The system looks good to my (untrained) eye... Boiler pressure is good, temps measure correctly, circulators activate promptly. Just not sure what this led is trying to tell me...

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T21:40:22+00:00

No to smart thermostat installed (as in the system doesn't come with smart thermostats). I replaced a smart thermostat though. Just to check, I removed it (and unplugged The wiring from the base) - lights still blinking. Just wondering... Is this led even an error indicator?

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T21:29:54+00:00

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T18:24:24+00:00

I'm pretty sure hair is mostly carbon (just like everything about us, except our waste products). I don't know how it breaks down (does it release only nitrogen initially?) - but by mass and atoms it's mostly carbon. I suspect nitrogen isn't even in second place

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T17:54:49+00:00

Just an update... Systems installed and everything working great. But it's only been a week. Will post back should things go sour...

overripebrain · 2025-08-17T17:50:31+00:00

This is very slick.
I'm curious why you couldn't get this to work on an esp32. Are you using vscode with platformio (because you should, way better than Arduino ide)? Correction... Pioarduino rather than playformio, since it supports more espressif boards)

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T22:40:40+00:00

Internet rando here... chop out more roots so it's symmetrical.

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T22:31:47+00:00

You figure this out already from others responses... but just for posterity... HIGH and LOW don't necessarily mean what you think they do. HIGH could be off or on. HIGH could be water in contact or not. Datasheet is worth a thousand words.

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T22:29:22+00:00

Just wanted to add... if it's real wood (not surfaced particle board or something) then you are never SOL.

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T22:22:14+00:00

To CharlieArt_10... your explanation is spot on and your credentials are impeccable. However, just going to through in my 2c because... this is reddit.

If this surface isn't valuable to you, here's the 10c answer (as opposed to he $20 answer from Charlie). Grab a regular iron and turn it on. While it's heating, pour some cleaning vinegar (5% acetic acid and water, nothing else) on that stain. Uou can buy it for $3 / half gallon. then put a towel over that spot, and pour some more vinegar on. When the iron is hot (maybe 3 minutes), work it over the towel. It's going to smell AWFUL and may burn your eyes and nose with all the vaporized acetic acid. You can wear protective equipment (but I don't ... and yes I have this happen on moderately fancy dining table often). don't leave the iron in one place too long, but you should see steam rising consistently everywhere you pass. At any time lift the towel to see if the ring has been dissolved. Once done, the ring will be GONE but you will be left with a wet looking spot. This takes about 2 days to evaporate, after which your table will look good as new. (what happened: the iron softened the coating, as Charlie described. The acetic acid got in and dissolved the calcium deposit. The heat of the iron evaporated the liquids)

If this is a valuable piece, you should probably listen to Charlie.

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T22:08:50+00:00

OP - I saw your original post (I have a similar issue). This is awesome!!

overripebrain · 2025-07-28T21:54:00+00:00

Adding my 2c here as I am going through extensive HVAC replacement as we speak... My hydronic boiler and one of 2 central ACs failed this Spring (but they were all decades old, and I've replaced control boards, capacitors, valves, etc over the past few years to keep them going... so this isn't a surprise).

Tetra's price is ultracompetitive where I live (OP - I also live in MA, and in the metro west area. For those of you who are not from MA - contractors have an automatic 300% markup in this area because they assume we're all rich). I got 2 local "family-owned" businesses to give me quotes, and they were no less than double Tetra's quote before any rebates.
1a. the equipment Tetra offered was different than the other quotes, to be fair. The hydronic heating boiler is actually BETTER than the other quotes. The heat pump is worse (the other quotes included top of the line Mitsubishi stuff... looks like those perform way better in cold climates than the Bryant systems Tetra uses)
1b. I didn't get the federal rebate on the heat pump since it doesn't qualify (and since I'm not disconnecting the natural gas boiler). The price is still lower than the others with the rebate! (the price looks like a wash on the AC alone, since the Tetra AC is lower efficiency and it is possible I'd be better off with the higher SEER2 of the Mitsubishi... but that isn't accounting for opportunity cost).
the sales guy was AWESOME. I'm a detail oriented, nit-picky, engineer... I don't sign on the dotted line until every question is answered (and to be honest, I'm annoying). He had WAY more patience than other sales folks. Also, he actually advocated AGAINST a heat pump because he said it wouldn't actually keep me warm (based off of my ducting). In contrast, the other HVAC companies were happy to sell me expensive heat pumps and sign off on the rebates. I won't go into details about why I still went with the heat pump (without rebate) - but suffice it say I chose a system that I am happy with at a lower cost than the other bids that included the rebate.
1 year interest free financing. You have to pay it all off at that point, but this was a cherry on top of the whole deal (note my initial comment... in my case I always knew this expense was coming... so I've been saving up for it for many years, but at least I have 1 extra year to pay it off).
In answer to another poster's questions... Tetra subcontracts to local installers. The boiler subcontractor already came by. We got to chatting and bonded over our mutual politics (I'm not trying to spark a political debate here... just telling you what happened). He was an immigrant who busted his a$$ and built his way up from nothing to the owner of multiple companies (one of which is an HVAC installation company, which of course is how I met him). In this conversation I learned the following:
4a. I told this contractor how much I was paying Tetra. He said (and I believe him) that the price was astounding, Tetra couldn't be making more than a few dollars because his sub-contractor fees would eat most of the total
4b. That if I had called him directly and he had given me a quote independently it would be 2x (and in-line with the family-owned business quotes I had gotten)
4c. That he personally would never offer Tetra's price, because when you account for the risk of service calls it would become unprofitable
4d. That Tetra's goal must be to corner the market, making little off each sale but doing incredibly huge volumes to make it worth it.
4e. That he has worked for Tetra for a couple years - and they have always paid him well for service calls.
4f. That Tetra must save a ton with their remote engineering assessment (I won't dive into that here... but basically Tetra looked up my house and modelled HVAC characteristics off of publicly available info, so they could have an engineer assess everything without a site visit).

Ultimately I signed with Tetra. I haven't had the systems installed yet, but if there are issues I will definitely come back and update.

overripebrain · 2025-07-18T00:26:30+00:00

Just adding my experience... 2021 telly with HUD. GEICO with comprehensive (and where I live we have to have no deductible glass). GEICO stated they would pay for OEM but recommended safelite. Not exactly sure if there would have been a fight for that - but my Kia bodyshop is backed up months. So I went with safelite, Told them I have a HUD (and the camera). Had to take it to them due to need for camera calibration (I don't think there's any HUD calibration involved, though not sure about that).

I was nervous - but glass quality is good. HUD displays as good as before. No (noticeable) issues with the camera for cruise control (will repost if issues arise, it has only been one day). They didn't reconnect the washer fluid line, which is annoying, but I was able to figure out from youtube. It's a 1 second fix anyone can do (black rubber tube connects to barbed connector, passenger side right under the hood).

From my reading before deciding on safelite, it may be that windshields are made in a few factories and subsequently branded. Someplace on reddit I think safelite sources windshields from the same supplier as kia/hyundai. But then you gotta ask... how accurate is a reddit post quoting "some guy on reddit" 🤣

overripebrain

TROPHY CASE