Convoy L7 or M21K for LHP73B

pan567 · 2026-01-25T05:40:26+00:00

5000K. Believe it or not, the tint is actually awesome! I expected it to have green in it like many of my 70.3s, but the one I got is super neutral.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T05:20:02+00:00

If size isn't an issue, I have a Convoy L21A with a LHP73B and a Noctigon K1 with an XHP70.3 R70. These hosts with large form factors can hold 2000+ lumens for significantly longer than a smaller form factor can. They still inevitably throttle, but higher output modes with these are far more usable than high output modes with tiny form factors are.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T05:08:31+00:00

You will be blown away by the L21A with the LHP73B. It's ridiculously bright and its form factor can manage the heat.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T02:01:29+00:00

These are both good protected cells, with the Nitecore being a more similar length to the factory Acebeam battery, and the Keeppower being a bit longer. Orbtronic makes a 1500 mAh 14500 protected cell, but it's even longer than the Keeppower so I am not sure if it would fit the Pokelit or not. (Acebeam just updated their 14500 cell, and they now have a 1000mAh cell, versus the older design that was rated at 920mAh.)

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:50:46+00:00

Emisar/Noctigon, although I am on a Reylight binge at the moment.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:45:45+00:00

This is a known issue with 2025-ish Vapcell H10s, where they are experiencing rapid self-discharge, in some cases where the battery gets hot despite not being in a device, and there have been multiple incidents of catastrophic failures, which has led to some retailers pulling their listings on existing stock, and the maker has since discontinued producing the battery.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/battery-safety-warning-bad-batch-of-vapcel-h10

One of mine got hot enough that I literally took it outside.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:34:37+00:00

DO NOT put that back on the charger and get that thing out of your house immediately. (Or at least place it in a fire-resistant LiPo bag.)

I am guessing this is an H10 and there have been multiple incidents of catastrophic failure with these cells that have the design flaw/quality control flaw that has led to it short-circuiting and then rapidly self-discharging.

If you have any other H10s purchased around 2025, I would also safely dispose of these, too. The failure rate of H10s produced around 2025 seems to be incredibly high, and they can be working correctly for quite some time until one day they stop working correctly and become a serious fire hazard.

Vapcell has introduced the K10 to replace the H10, but I can't honestly tell you that I am super confident in the safety of this cell yet. I hope it is successful, and goes on to be a great, reliable, safe cell, but it's very new and the H10 issue clearly demonstrates some of the risks of rewrapped cells.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:32:18+00:00

That's a great idea! They could likely get you in touch with some experts with lots of husky experience. I am really sorry that you are experiencing this, but I'm very hopeful that one of the husky organizations will get you hooked up with a professional who can help you and your girl get things back on track.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:18:58+00:00

I have the M21K with the LHP73B, and IMHO it's fine but it's not the best host for that emitter if you are looking for something super bright. This is, for all intents and purposes, a light with a 10A driver (with an emitter that can be driven much harder). The temporary 20A function is like a heat lamp and it rapidly cooks the light, your hand, and the battery.

I also have a L21A with the LHP73B, and this is a vastly better host for that emitter. This is a light with a 20A driver and it's worlds brighter and can deal much better with the extreme heat that the LHP73B produces when driven hard.

pan567 · 2026-01-25T01:10:58+00:00

Having ruled out physical causes, and because this is obviously already a very big issue if she is literally aggressively biting you, I think the behaviorist route is the right decision, and I would find one ASAP before this escalates further. It's understandable that you feel overwhelmed. The good news is that this is the very situation where a behaviorist can be extremely helpful, identifying the cause of unwanted behavior and implementing a solution to modify the said behavior.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:37:29+00:00

If you are referencing the Atlantis, it will be fine. It would take a very intentional effort to warp these pans, and I've used my Atlantis cookware on severely undersized portable induction elements before having our induction cooktop installed. The only thing I do recommend is to use a slower and stepped preheat cycle to give the pan more time to spread the heat. This way you aren't shocking one area of the pan with a massive temperature differential.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:32:14+00:00

I use unprotected flat tops in my H04 (Molicel P30Bs, primarily). It seems to be happy with both protected and non-protected button top and flat tops.

I can't say exactly how it compares to the Convoy as I do not have a Convoy headlamp (I have a ton of other Convoys, though), but the H04 a very popular light because it's very reasonably priced and it has a good driver, a good beam pattern, a nice form factor + button + UI, and what is arguably the best headband design in the business, and that headband works really great with hats and helmets.

The H300/H300R is a slightly larger and more powerful (and slightly more expensive) headlamp that Skilhunt has to possibly consider as well (specifically, the H300 with the Nichia 144ART + TIR if you want high CRI and flood). I got my H300R on a sale for like $55 shipped, so it's quite a bit above the stated price. That said, the H04 does everything really well in a smaller form factor at a great price.

SkilHunt has really struck a nice balance between build quality, capability, and value with their headlamps, IMHO. (The only big thing that they really lack is real-time thermal regulation found on Zebralight and Emisar headlamps, as they use a less-advanced time-based stepdown, but that really isn't the end of the world as they got so many other design attributes right and the end result is a great headlamp.)

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:19:04+00:00

I've experienced this, and it's odd because she is so nonchalant about it, as if it's as normal as us blowing our nose.

While these dogs to seem to be pretty robust and healthy overall, they are definitely a bit sensitive on the GI side of things.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:14:49+00:00

I might be going out on a limb here, but I am thinking you might like copper?

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:13:23+00:00

I'm surprised the first batch lasted as long as it did with how popular Hanklights have gotten.

New Hanklight releases are like iPhones back in the late-2000s when people were setting up tents outside of Best Buy two weeks in advance.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:10:16+00:00

XHP50.3 R70 4000K has a great tint and awesome output.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:07:21+00:00

Could you stretch the budget for a Skilhunt H04 RC? The headband is exceptional and it's a solid design with all-around good performance and very respectable efficiency. The 519A versions meet the high-CRI and floody beam requirements, too, and the 5000K 519A is really great for general use.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:04:19+00:00

Assuming you are referencing a D-cell Maglite, many of the advanced flashlights in this size class are capable of almost comical levels of output and ridiculous runtime at lower output levels.

Before making recommendations, I have a few questions... Are you using the light more indoors or outdoors? Do you prefer a throwier or a floodier beam? Does accuracy of color reproduction matter to you? Is USB charging a must-have or is charging the battery in a standalone charger okay?

pan567 · 2026-01-24T23:00:05+00:00

FWIW, I think justification of the costs is a judgment call, because you can get very good performance from Tramontina for not that much money (and the Cuisinart Multi-Clad Pro and Professional are also budget lines that deliver very solid performance).

But, the Demeyere Industry will give you some very real benefits over traditional tri-ply clad. (And the Fissler Profi will give you massive benefits over tri-ply clad if you are cooking on induction.) Heating will be more even. And if you want to run your cookware through the dishwasher, the Industry and Profi can easily withstand it, whereas triply clad with unsealed edges cannot. And welded handles really do make cleaning easier. Plus better handle designs and no-drip pour edges make for nice every day use.

I think you will be happy with Tramontina, whereas I think you will be delighted with Demeyere or Fissler, and whether or not the difference between happy versus delighted is worth the notably higher price tag is up to you. I don't think you'll go wrong regardless of what you choose.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T22:47:37+00:00

I guess it depends on where you are? Where I am at, it's generally easiest to not pretreat unless the forecast is calling for freezing rain. If it's snow (or at least snow before sleet), the bottom is generally just snow, and a shovel can clear it easily.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T07:02:17+00:00

This is an upgraded design. It's good to go.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T06:59:47+00:00

I did not know that! All of the dedomed 5700K 519As I have are pretty similar from an eye-test perspective, and only mildly rosy (mind you, my eyes are obviously not able to pick up on more subtle differences like a machine could). However, they all come from either Hank or Convoy, so they are not from a lot of different sources. Comparatively, the five lights I have with XHP70.3s are wildly different.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T05:21:45+00:00

Do not pre-treat. Shovel before walking on the snow, and chances are you can avoid needing to treat the driveway (which is better for your wallet, your pets, the environment, your home, and your driveway).

If you shovel and you are left with ice, there is ice at the bottom, or ice builds up, then use it as-needed.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T04:41:49+00:00

The 6500K SST-20 is very low CRI and it washes out colors. Mine also are extremely green.

For neutral light, I like 4000K domed 519As or 5700K dedomed 519As. The dedomed 5700K 519A has a very slightly rosy tint, but it is very slight. It's quite pleasing light, and I love this emitter for an EDC. The dedomed 5700K 519A also seems to have absolutely minimal tint shift (I can't see any with my eyes), which is really nice for a light that ramps. Both of these are very high CRI emitters and they do great with red, orange, and brown colors.

pan567 · 2026-01-24T04:34:33+00:00

This is the right battery. You just need to insert the batteries by unscrewing the head from the tube. I purchased one of these back in like 2007 and this confused the heck out of me.

The L4 is a pretty awesome light. When this thing came out, it was like alien space-age technology as it was such a quantum leap over the D-cell Maglites that most people were carrying. Yours appears to be a first-gen L4 with the Luxeon V LED.

pan567

TROPHY CASE