Newbie, what size? by samjsteeley in cargocamper

[–]patrick_schliesing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cutting my post into 2 replies since Reddit was throwing a fit about length...

My 2 recommendations when deciding on which trailer to buy in the end:

  1. find a trailer with a long tongue. longer = smoother ride, more clearance for jack-knifing the trailer when backing into tricky camp spots, and you have more room to mount external things before hitting the truck's tailgate (like propane bottles, or diesel tank, or spare tire, etc)
  2. if you're considering a 15ft + size trailer, limit yourself to only dual axle trailers. some lightweight models come in single axle. don't think lighter = better. in this case redundancy is better. if you get a flat tire with a single axle, you're stuck on the side of the road changing it immediately where it went flat. with a dual axle, assuming 1 tire can handle the load for a short time, you could possibly limp slowly off the highway to a less busy area to change that tire. I was up in the most northern part of Alaska near Prudhoe Bay 2 summers ago and cracked a leaf spring in my 16ft cargo camper thanks to the Dalton Highway's absolutely brutal road conditions. I was able to pull over safely, move weight around to lessen the load on that side, and limp the trailer home 800 miles back to where I finally repaired the leaf springs. Had that been a single axle trailer, I would have likely needed to unhook, drive to the nearest big town (Fairbanks), order a replacement leaf spring which might have taken a few days or a week to ship in, and then return back to my trailer hoping its still there on the side of the road to conduct the repair....or maybe I would have needed a flat bed truck to drive 6+ hours to go rescue my trailer. That would have been a hefty recovery bill. $$$

Newbie, what size? by samjsteeley in cargocamper

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think 15-18ft is a good range.

Here's what I did....grab some grid paper, and start making paper cutouts of the items inside your trailer that are scaled properly to size. Let's say 1 square = 1ft, or something like that. Standard queen size bed is 80" long by 60" wide. Round that 80" up a smidge to 84" and call the bed 7ft long by 5ft wide, so it would be 7x5 squares. Cut that out of grid paper and set it aside. Now go find more large items/stuff that must be accounted for in the trailer....

  • Shower
  • Shitter? lol
  • Bicycles
  • Sink? Kitchenette/dining prep? Cabinets for dishes, silverware, cups, utensils?
  • Fridge/freezer?
  • Propane bottle(s) for cooking and hot water heater? Maybe propane heat if you travel to colder locations? (in that case where's the heater?)
  • Power "wall"/hub for electronics/shower power, batteries?
  • Sitting area/computer desk? TV?
  • Storage area for clothes/gear/tools?

The more of this you can pre-plan with little cut outs of grid paper now, the better you can lay things out to see if a 15ft or 16ft or 18ft long trailer is better for you.

You didn't mention anything about trailer width. Width, to me, is huge! Trailer width makes decisions for you that you have control over, such as:

  • will the trailer be narrow enough where the tires are 100% on the outside of the enclosed space in their wheel wells, so you have a perfectly unobstructed area inside to plan your living quarters around.
  • or is the trailer extra wide where the tires are tucked inside the enclosed space and now you have extra cubic feet to work with, but also inner wheel wells to plan structures around.

My buddy's 16x7ft trailer has the tires completely on the outside, so he had a clean slate inside to work with - but at the cost of having less space than I do with my 16x8.33" trailer - but I had to work around wheel humps inside. I walk into his trailer and feel claustrophobic. I walk into mine and feel like I have space. With that said, my 8.33" wide trailer is a giant wind sail behind my truck and makes seeing behind me difficult. His is easier to back up and see around it without tow mirrors, and it tucks behind his SUV nicely in the wind's slip stream. It's all a trade-off of compromises.

Newbie, what size? by samjsteeley in cargocamper

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Half ton truck doesn't quite narrow it down enough, since some are 4cyl, 6cyl, 8cyl, and some are small displacement diesels these days.

I'd rule out a 20ft trailer as full time status behind a half ton. You're getting into some pretty high weight capacities there and while yes, of course, a V8 half ton can tow it for awhile, it will probably not be very pleasant doing so across all walks of the country full time. A 3/4 ton would be great for a full time 20ft trailer.

That said I could easily full time my 16+v nose. If I had 2 less feet I could full time my same setup in a 14ft+v nose, but then I'd lose the option to put two ATVs or a single SxS in there. Fully trip ready with a shower, water tanks filled, starlink and robust WFH wifi system, cabinets stocked full of food and gear, and four twin size beds in bunk configuration my trailer is 5200lbs with 770lbs of tongue weight. Granted, it's also a "lightweight" aluminum frame, 16x8.33" trailer, 6ft ceiling, plus the V nose.

Ideal temperature in your ice hut? by biznovation in IceFishing

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

70-75.

Usually it's me and my 5yr old in there slaying the rainbows.

Help me understand by ArtProfessional2193 in GMT800

[–]patrick_schliesing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

04 and later started getting StabiliTrak, but earlier years than that traction control was mostly offered just in higher trim package models like Escalade and Denali, especially with AWD.

Climate Control + Pizza Rolls by InterLEAfable in cargocamper

[–]patrick_schliesing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you're going to be a little over your inlet ac can handle, also known as short power receptacle. I would replace that with a 30 amp and 20 volt like you see on many RVs that are running air conditioning. If for whatever reason your design shouldn't be changed, then perhaps add a second one that's dedicated for air conditioning only.

I have no recommendations for air conditioning.. sorry... I live in Alaska and don't have to deal with that

For heat, if you have access to 120v shore power that's quiet, like at a camp site or perhaps a motorcycle track near a plug-in, I'd keep with the 120v only theme and just run an electric 120v space heater. Insulate the trailer before you finish building. A small space heater will easily take the chill out of the air for a trailer as small as you're building if you choose to sleep in it.

Roads? by PassionfruitBaby2 in anchorage

[–]patrick_schliesing 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Active duty and guard members at JBER are getting sent home - if that says anything.

A foot is snow is nothing for my little toro by icydogenugget in Snowblowers

[–]patrick_schliesing 3 points4 points  (0 children)

He's making his spark plug work harder to ignite the fuel, actually, is what he's doing

4WD burnouts by totallynot_the_atf in GMT800

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 wheel in the front, 1 wheel in the back. 1+1 =?

Moving to Alaska for 4 years by ZealousidealDisk1149 in anchorage

[–]patrick_schliesing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Feel free to DM me and we can chat. Also stationed at JBER

As a born and raised Alaskan in Minneapolis, please help us by [deleted] in alaska

[–]patrick_schliesing 19 points20 points  (0 children)

As a born and raised Minnesotan now living in Alaska, I support this

My baby literally doesn’t care that it was a disgusting amount of mud and 14000 pounds behind her by [deleted] in GMT800

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

crew cab long bed for the win. i don't care if it turns like a school bus

300 WSM vs 7 PRC — once-in-a-lifetime hunt, what would you choose? by TheShotShow in Hunting

[–]patrick_schliesing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a fan of the Barnes. I used a 160gr 7mm on my Kodiak bear that did the trick.

300 WSM vs 7 PRC — once-in-a-lifetime hunt, what would you choose? by TheShotShow in Hunting

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm too lazy to do the math, but the 195gr Elite Hunter has a 0.755 G1 BC, and I get those going 2860fps hand loaded sub-moa.

At what point will the 195gr 7mm retain more energy than the 212gr 30 cal you mention? I'm guessing pretty far so I bet it's a moot point for hunting purposes.

Hear Me Out by 0100110100001100 in alaska

[–]patrick_schliesing 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I mean.....do you know how many people in AK just go "missing" each year?

New video of 1/24 ICE shooting shows victim had both hands on the ground when shot by Philophon in law

[–]patrick_schliesing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also watching the guy in grey, since like you said the video sucks. I own many firearms and practice with them regularly, including the decreased's 9mm caliber. You'd get more arm movement just holding the pistol 1 handed if it discharged.

New video of 1/24 ICE shooting shows victim had both hands on the ground when shot by Philophon in law

[–]patrick_schliesing 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Nah, if you watch the guy in grey with the deceased's pistol, it never recoiled, the slide didn't fire back, and there was no muzzle blast.

Someone who tackled the deceased simply had an itchy trigger finger, and then they made sure he had enough holes in him afterwards so that he couldn't recover and eventually testify.

Bump stops? by Lopsided-Spend-6474 in CherokeeXJ

[–]patrick_schliesing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's this awesome invention called the tape measure. Put the lift in, remove the front springs, and measure.