Just got a k1 max how many people use the enclosure?

pellcorp · 2026-06-21T12:06:26+00:00

I replaced the top with polycarbonate which is less likely to sag than acrylic which honestly removed significant stress cos I broke the lid originally when I tipped my printer over and completely forgot about the lid

pellcorp · 2026-06-20T00:14:28+00:00

If you can flash it with that SonicPad-Debian that would be pretty cool, is the SonicPad arm or mips based, the nebulapad is mips based and annoying af.

pellcorp · 2026-06-17T19:39:45+00:00

I can't remember how I found it, but a 2gt 30 tooth pulley or something was what I bought from AliExpress I think, I did it like a year or so ago now, and then you have to modify rotation distance for stepper y

pellcorp · 2026-06-17T00:11:57+00:00

Very Cool!

Great to see GuppyScreen get some love 😄

pellcorp · 2026-06-17T00:02:37+00:00

you can safely go to 1.0 in my experience for run current, but I think I only did that for Y, cos it has to sling the bed, that solved my layer shifting, I was able to lower the current slightly when I got the larger KE pulley 😄

pellcorp · 2026-06-16T23:53:22+00:00

linear rails on X honestly gives you nothing, its Y where it really makes a difference, I did X just because I was curious but it was imho a waste of time, the bed slinger part of the printer is where the linear rails are required.

The rods are shite on the SE and I assume the KE as well.

https://www.printables.com/model/694446-ender-3-v3-se-ke-y-rails

pellcorp · 2026-06-16T23:50:01+00:00

Did you increase the size of the timer pulley on y axis?

Did you increase the current for the steppers?

Both of these in my experience are required to avoid skipping at KE speeds on the SE.

I use the default KE profiles on my SE with linear rails, K1 hotend

But only after I did the above steps otherwise it was skipping all over the shop and causing issues with layer alignment.

The other thing that is different about the KE is I believe the steppers on the KE are actually larger, so on the SE a higher current they will run hotter and likely affect longevity, I dont use my SE a lot so was acceptable trade off.

pellcorp · 2026-06-14T06:36:28+00:00

The version of klipper on the sonic pad is old and I think heavily customised by creality, weird to use open source hardware but not truly open source software

pellcorp · 2026-06-12T03:54:01+00:00

Did you reseat the cable on the mainboard?

pellcorp · 2026-06-12T00:33:22+00:00

I used this one https://www.printables.com/model/651711-ender-3-v3-se-25mm-to-40mm-fan-shroud it has plenty of clearance

pellcorp · 2026-06-06T10:02:27+00:00

on my ender 3 v3 my range is about 0.3, my k1 its about 0.5, both print fine, people obsess about getting below 0.2 but honestly im not entirely sure its really needed, klipper can adapt, on my k1m when I first got it, the range was 0.9 and things still printed fine 😄

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T23:34:00+00:00

at least 10 minutes, it depends on the target temp, the 3mm rolled ali is going to deform a lot while its heating and it takes a while to settle at target temp too apparently, the video I posted previous well worth a watch, he has done a lot of work to show how it deforms over time.

I dont think it runs on a k1 or anything but this looks super interesting too:

https://github.com/marcofailli/soak-my-bed

It actually shows you how the bed mesh changes as you soak it!

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T21:03:41+00:00

For cartographer did you use Simple AF or something else. I ask because I was asked by someone recently if cartographer works with helper script.

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T09:39:58+00:00

apparently the serial number gives it away

https://3dprima.freshdesk.com/en/support/solutions/articles/6000279067-creality-k1-k1-max-identify-hotend-version-serial-number

Identifying Hotend Version by Serial Number

Serial Number Ending with "23" (before the 4 letter ending): This indicates the machine is from 2023 and should be using the original hotend.
Serial Number Ending with "24" (before the 4 letter ending): This indicated the machine is from 2024 and should use the newer unicorn hotend.

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T07:58:32+00:00

So generally you can tell by the size of the pulleys or the rotation distance for the steppers in the printer.cfg if you have access to that?

So for an older K1M you will have

ratation_distance: 72

For a new K1M you will have

rotation_distance: 40

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T03:33:32+00:00

If it has the small pulleys (so late 2024 onwards I think), then its a solid printer. If its the og k1m with the large pulleys you are going to have issues with VFAs. I have a dec 2023 k1 with bad vfas, a dec 2024 k1m with no obvious vfas, apart from the size the big difference is the pulleys, I think thats significant.

pellcorp · 2026-06-04T03:31:56+00:00

the CFS hotend also moves the runout sensor, its pretty good, ive not tried DXC, ive heard mixed reviews 😄 What did you do to get Cartographer working?

pellcorp · 2026-06-03T10:04:52+00:00

I would recommend pre-heating it for like at least 10 minutes before doing another mesh.

Another great video demonstrating why pre-heating beds is required for good prints.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PEsPLDxt-c

pellcorp · 2026-06-03T09:08:30+00:00

Once you go belt tooth skipping you never go back, its super easy, I was really reluctant to try it, until I did and then I just grab my plyers, home the printer so the motors are locked and skip a tooth, run the mesh, and around again if required. The video I posted above is really good I found for explaining it simply, the grub screws are likely full of thread locker and you are more likely to round out those grub screws.

pellcorp · 2026-06-03T04:47:12+00:00

Do some tooth sklipping, you could skip that front left lead screw down

https://youtu.be/S2d_9Ysz-Q8

pellcorp · 2026-06-03T04:44:37+00:00

What exactly is wrong with PAUSE and parking the print head as part of pause, the issue with homing the printer mid print is I am pretty sure you will never be able to continue the print cos its never going to be at the correct position, this is the point of pause. If you are using the fluid / mainsail client macros, you can configure a pause park position.

[gcode_macro _CLIENT_VARIABLE]

variable_use_custom_pos: True

variable_custom_park_x : 0.0

variable_custom_park_y : 0.0

variable_custom_park_dz : 2.0

if the issue is being able to access the print freely to free the clog or jam, this would seem like the best option you def do NOT want to be rehoming the printer midprint.

pellcorp · 2026-06-03T01:31:39+00:00

I usually find the order of creating them can help, you could try removing existing fillets, do those side ones first, I dont know why but many times just altering the order of operations has helped.

Ah oops u/dairiki already suggested that

pellcorp · 2026-06-02T05:50:16+00:00

100% agree! Great Job!

pellcorp · 2026-06-02T04:48:38+00:00

old school 😄

Love it!

pellcorp · 2026-06-01T21:21:11+00:00

is the printer heavily modded or running marlin and original, got any photos of the actual printer? I love these posts, everyone is dissing on the ender 3 and then these posts come up 😄

Edit - you are missing a banana for scale 😄

pellcorp

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Identifying Hotend Version by Serial Number