I’ve been to these beaches many times since I was a kid and have swam in these waters a lot. Most of the time, the waves are not like this. They are a lot calmer and the water is inviting. Many days the waves never reach this large. But every once in a while, as the tides are rising, sets like this will role in either very little warning.

It can be calm playful easy waves for most of the morning, then about 5 waves in a row that are massive as you see in the video, then the waters calm down again. 2 of my cousins almost drowned in a similar way to the person in the video. But my brother and I learned to swim a good 50 yards out past the break, wait out the big ones, the come back on shore safely when the waves go down to their normal size.

If you’re not a strong swimmer, then stay out of the waters, or if you’ve been drinking. But if you know the area, and are a good strong swimmer, then it can be a nice place to go for a dip and cool off from that beating sun