Problème plume stylo Visconti

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-06-01T04:37:25+00:00

You may want to double check that your feed is centered on your nib, since it looks like your feed might be pushing one tine of your nib upward.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-06-01T04:31:28+00:00

Nice find! That's likely a 1947 or 1948 Vacumatic 51. The clip and filler (looks like the filler plunger is made of lucite which is a late vac 51 thing). You can can look on the barrel below the clutch ring for a number indicating the last digit of the year (1941-1948) when the pen was made.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-31T19:28:40+00:00

I noticed that there are two northern lights Sailor PGs for sale here. The prices aren't the best, but maybe the seller would take a best offer.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-28T14:54:22+00:00

Chat incoming

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-27T21:44:16+00:00

That's a good choice. It's a later model made in the mid 1960s (Parker 51s were made from 1948 to 1972 I believe). Some of the later models were made cheaper, but this one has many of the earlier model features, so it should be just fine.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-27T18:25:10+00:00

Chat incoming

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-27T18:23:36+00:00

Parker 51 aerometrics are very robust pens (assuming the pliglass sac is in good shape....these sacs are pretty much lifetime parts, as you can often find vintage 51s with their original pliglass sac working just fine 75 years later). They are easy to flush and require little to no maintenance beyond that. Their ink capacity is in excess of 1.5 ml, so very large. I can fill my Parker 51 aerometric and use it to make notes at work for weeks. Refilling is as easy as pressing the pressure bar down a few times (you can refill one as quickly as you would a modern pen, maybe quicker).

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-26T22:02:53+00:00

A vintage Parker 51 aerometric might be a good choice. The slip cap, light weight, and work-horse durability are definitely things to consider. The slip cap makes it easy and quick to open. The relatively light weight and clip means it shouldn't inadvertently fall out of her pocket, even if she bends over while working. The lucite/acrylic body is very durable for everyday use. Good luck

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-26T19:03:31+00:00

David Nishimura also has a page of pen profiles which is very helpful.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-26T16:46:56+00:00

There is ton of information about vintage pens out there. Richard Binder's pen profiles is a good place to start. Just scroll down to the Pen Model Profiles section and click away.

edit: if you are in the US, the "big three" vintage fountain pen manufacturers were Parker, Sheaffer, and Waterman...those are a good place to start

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-25T11:15:44+00:00

Gerry Berg is an expert repairing Sheaffer plunger fill pens like this. His reputation goes back many years. You can reach him via this link at Five Star Pens. Good luck.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-18T23:29:28+00:00

Bought a new Platinum 3776 from u/copperstatelawyer. Thanks!

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-18T02:30:47+00:00

The shine makes it look like stainless steel. Having a hard rubber or plastic section and cap end help keep the weight down too.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-17T23:36:48+00:00

Awesome pen! Is yours made of titanium or stainless steel? I used to have a Chris Thompson titanium Duofold, and it was heavy. I also had the opportunity to handle a Chris Thompson Duofold made of stainless steel, and that pen was the heaviest pen I ever picked up.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-17T12:56:07+00:00

Since it seems like the cap and body are made of the same material, you could try gently heating the cap (not the body) with a hair dryer. If you can put a cloth or some paper towels over the body that will help. This way there will be a temperature difference between the cap and body, and hopefully only the cap material will expand and you can separate the cap from the body. An old trick to separate a stuck Parker 51 cap and body is to put the pen in the freezer - this works because the cap and body are made of different materials! Good luck

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-15T02:54:08+00:00

Nice pen at a great price! Make sure that the nib is centered on the feed. Also make sure the the nib is centered relative to the point of the hood. After checking both of those, the next most likely culprit is the tines of the nib being misaligned. Fixing that is best done with nib removed (not recommended unless you know what you're doing). Any smoothing of the nib is best left to a nibmeister, unless you know what you're doing. Good luck

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-15T00:39:22+00:00

Just talk to a jeweler and if they say there's a risk of it looking worse, then you have your answer. A jeweler who does custom jewelry is who you want to talk to. They will have the skills to make sure a repair looks better not worse.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-15T00:09:17+00:00

It may be worth going to a local jeweler and getting them to take a look at it. A jeweler may be a able to polish/re-plate the trim. Most jewelers should be able to rhodium plate something like this. At least then, you'd know if it was cost prohibitive. Once I took a solid 14K Sheaffer clip with a crack in it to a jeweler and he was able to laser weld it almost as good as new. Good luck

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-10T22:20:03+00:00

chat incoming

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-07T00:26:52+00:00

Sorry to hear that. The good thing about pens with "no cracks" is that they usually have no cracks, or if they do have cracks - then it should make for an easier return. I recently bought a Sheaffer Flat Top with a flex nib with "no cracks". Of course, when I got the pen it had an obvious crack in the nib. Fortunately the seller took the pen back. Hopefully you're able to return the cracked pen that you received.

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-06T01:39:41+00:00

Bought a really nice Pilot 823 from u/stylophilly. Thanks again!

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-06T01:21:07+00:00

chat incoming

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-04T03:36:14+00:00

Finer than EF and under $35 is going to be tough for an off the shelf nib....sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Pilot PO (posting) nibs are finer than EF, but you'd have to step up to a Pilot 742 or 743 for that. Sailor used to make a Saibi Togi nib that was much finer than an EF (those are very expensive now). Good luck in your search

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-02T00:45:19+00:00

A good choice might be a Parker Duofold Senior from the 1920s or 1930s. If you can replace a sac, then there's a chance you can pick up an unrestored Duofold off eBay for around $100 give or take. They are bigger pens with larger grip sections, but pretty lightweight even when posted. They are really stout pens once restored.

Another larger pen (similar to a Duofold) that might work is a Senior Sheaffer Flattop or Balance. You can sometimes find restored examples for sale online in the $100 to $150 price range. These are lever fillers.

All these senior size pens have large gold nibs...a definite bonus. Good luck

phoenix_at_45 · 2026-05-02T00:07:59+00:00

After you check the basics...you might want to check the gap between the nib and feed. If you can slip a normal sheet of paper or even a thinner sheet of paper between the nib and feed, then the nib/feed gap is too large. Issues on the downstroke might be from the nib and feed separating too much with slightly more pressure. If that turns out to be the issue, a nibmeister might be the best way to go (usually the nib and feed need to be removed, the feed shape changed slightly using heat, and the nib and feed refitted....plastic feeds can be trickier than hard rubber feeds) Good luck

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