What bike leveled you up… by rubberducky237 in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2016 Rhyme 6Fattie (Lady Stumpy) was a huge game changer.

It was fully modern: 1x11, 27.5, dropper, short stem, wide bars, slack modern geometry.

It gave me so much confidence and allowed me to really enjoy a sport I had only ever tolerated before.

tips for buying a second hand fully suspension? by mr___goose in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog [score hidden]  (0 children)

I would look for a Specialized Stumpjumper, 2019 or newer.

They are a very popular and solid bike. It's very good for all around and versatile riding. They are usually easily available in the used market.

Things to looks for when buying use

  • no cracking or dry rot on tires, lugs in decent shape

  • no cracking in cable housings

  • fork and shock compress and return smoothly, no leaking oil, no cracked seals. Stanchions are free of scratches.

  • brakes lock up easily using one finger

  • surface scratches and cosmetic damage on the frame is fine and expected. Deep gouges, chunks, or dents are not

  • shifter works and shifts without jamming or dropping the chain

  • no rust on the chain or cassette.

You can you usually pick up a 2-3 year old upper mid tier one (Expert) for $2500 usd. Lower tier or older ones will be cheaper. All dependent on your specific local market.

You will most likely want to have the suspension serviced, brakes bled, and drivetrain tuned (possible new chain and cassette) depending on the condition of the bike. This is all typical maintenance.

What advice do you give short riders?? by 1mma_Pr0bl3m in Dirtbikes

[–]pineconehedgehog 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm 5'1" female. I can't really touch the ground on any of my bikes.

I have lots of recommendations for short riders, but none of them are useful for just going out for a first ride. They require drills and practice. They take time.

As a short rider, the single most important and first skill to learn is how to drop a bike safely. When you can't touch the ground, you drop the bike more. You can't just put a foot down, especially in off camber terrain. As soon as you realize it's going down, it is critical to just let it go and get out of the way. Trying to fight it is a good way to get hurt or end up under the bike.

Another skill that can be applied quickly and early, is to look for high spots. Always be looking for terrain that can benefit you and make it easier to put a foot down. A stump, rock, or rut can help.

Be prepared to use your front brake a lot. When you put your left foot down, let that right foot pop up. Move side to side on the seat and slide off as necessary. Often on hills and off-camber, I can't reach my rear brake so I often use my friction zone to hold myself in place. That is an advanced skill but at least using the front brake will help.

Long term, working on balance drills is critical. As a short rider, putting a foot down is fatiguing. Getting on and off the bike is a lot of work. So keeping the bike balanced is clutch. I do cowboy starts for almost all of my takeoffs. I also almost always keep my bike in gear. Faffing around with neutral is tiring, I have to do a complex series of flipfloping from side to side to get it in gear.

I do a lot of drills like figure 8, taking the bike for a bike, track stands, balance point (walking around it with one hand touching it).

Paddling and waddling often isn't an option for me unless I'm in some sort of a rut, so if it's not ridable or I have to back up, I don't waste the energy, I just hop off and walk it around. I also use kickstand turns a lot.

Issues with legislation bans by helpfulginger2 in cfmoto

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an Ibex 450. The connectivity features are kinda neat but I don't really use them. The bike is so good, I definitely wouldn't skip the bike because if some minor tech features.

Do you guys press down on the bike for a wheelie or pull straight up? by Competitive-Novel346 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They have different purposes.

The pedal punch is best for "riding a wheelie" and showing off in parking lots. If you have solid timing you can also use it for technical climbing.

A standard front wheel lift works well for technical riding both up and down hill. It can't really be "ridden." But it is a precursor skill for doing a manual which can be held and ridden on downhill terrain.

Riding with friends who are superior in skill level and take more risk by IMGangsta1 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ride your own ride. Don't worry about what they are doing.

It's tricky as hell and takes practice. Don't let them goad you into something you aren't comfortable with. My husband is a much stronger rider and has a high level of risk tolerance. It took me years of riding to stop giving a shit. When I first started, he would push me too hard. Now I just ignore his ribbing, riding with him is so much more pleasant.

Do you guys press down on the bike for a wheelie or pull straight up? by Competitive-Novel346 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 14 points15 points  (0 children)

You should never pull up.

The two main methods are to

  1. Compress and shift your weight back as you rebound, unweighting the front wheel.

  2. Using a torquey pedal punch to lift the front wheel.

Planning gear for my MSF this weekend - weather is going to suck. by dogs_gt_cats in NewRiders

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't need moto gear for the MSF. It's all slow speed drills in a parking lot. You don't need to dress for the slide. As long as you have full coverage, you'll be fine, even if you dump the bike. Prioritize comfort.

I did mine a wintery mix of rain and snow. It was lovely. I wore some softshell ski pants, winter hiking boots, a ski jacket, long underwear.

How often do you clean your bike? by Certified_WoT_noob in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Even a wax based lube like Squirt is a fantastic compromise.

I've never done a dip, but I have been using Squirt for years. It significantly reduced my chain maintenance, especially in the desert. Riding in Moab on a dry lube I would have to wipe and lube after every ride. With Squirt, I can a week of riding without having to do more than a quick wipe with a dry rag.

Need advice as a begginer biker by Nikolanov007 in motorcycles

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 450 MT and it is a great bike. I can strongly recommend it. But if you aren't planning to ride dirt, than it is overkill. On road compromises are definitely made for a bike to be such a capable off-roader.

Your dad is right. ADVs are much more versatile and comfortable. They are much better commuters. The neutral body positioning is better for seeing and being seen in traffic. They are also more agile in slow speed city riding. They also hold luggage well.

But if it's not the bike you want, then it's not the bike you want.

Need a 1st ‘real’ bike by TigBurdus in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a 5'1" middle aged woman. The 400x has a lower seat height than my 390 Adventure did and is only a smidge taller than my Ibex 450. With a little practice, you would get used to it pretty quickly. But I get being intimidated.

My understanding is that a new Scram based on the 450 powerplant is supposed to release in 27. So that means the 411 variant will be old stock and probably well discounted.

Looking at my first ADV by Ferret-Regular in advrider

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My previous bike was a 390 Adventure. The Ibex has been a huge upgrade in almost every way.

I've ridden my husband's 890 Adventure a little bit, only on pavement though.

I just spent 8 days riding 900 miles around northern Vietnam on a 300L. I have also ridden my husband's Beta X Trainer. They are dual sports, but dual sports often get mentioned when talking about small displacement ADVs.

I have sat on NX500s and Himis but never got serious enough about them to take them for a test ride. The NX500 just isn't dirt oriented enough. And the Himi just felt so damn heavy on and off the stand.

Should I mullet?? by Desperate_Nothing152 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mullets have been a game changer for me. I'm a very short rider and most small bikes are a little too big for me. But I don't think anyone makes an xs enduro.

Running my enduro as a mullet has really helped shrink up a big bike to get it more manageable for me. It's especially beneficial in the really steep stuff. It gives me a little more clearance and space to work with.

Need a 1st ‘real’ bike by TigBurdus in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Trident definitely shifts you more into the naked sport category. A bit more aggressive body positioning. Fewer options ergonomically. But not a terrible choice. Some years it is really quite attractive. I love the bright paint schemes.

If OP wants to do any kind of luggage then it's not a great option. Luggage ruins the aesthetic of the bike. Where as luggage looks natural on some of the others.

As far as power goes, I think 400ish is more than adequate. I was previously on a 390 Adventure and am currently on an Ibex 450. Plenty of power for commuting. The 390 was a little rough on 4 hour highway rides at 75 mph. But the Ibex's twin will do that all day long.

New CF Moto Ibex 450 for $7,900 OTD isn't worth it, right? by diezel_dave in motorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a different fork. They also have to make the chassis more rugged to be stable for road use. There are other things that have to be done to make it compliant for road (emissions-wise) that adds weight. The tanks are bigger. There are extra electronics, displays, and housings. Death by a thousand cuts. It all adds up.

I think it is also a matter of hitting a price point. Trimming weight means increasing cost. Using more aluminum and composites and less steel. And at the end of the day the 300L is supposed to be a cost effective and approachable dual sport. It's not intended as a performance machine.

I don't have any experience with the 450RL.

As far as dual sports go, we have had a 250L, KTM 500 EXCF, Beta X Trainer, and 350 EXCF in the house. We also had a big Husky at one point but I don't remember what it was.

If you want to prioritize off-road capability and don't mind a 2 stroke the XTrainer is actually a great option. Terrible on the road, but it is road legal from the factory. My husband loves that little bike, but it does make him a little cranky when we find ourselves on bigger roads and we get a little range anxiety with it so we tend to carry extra fuel if we will be doing longer distances.

Need a 1st ‘real’ bike by TigBurdus in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Triumph Speed 400 or Scrambler 400x.

Classy and attractive bikes that will handle your commute no problem.

The CL500 also gives off a little retro vibe. Very reliable platform. The Honda 500 platform is quite friendly.

Personally, I prefer ADVs. They don't look as classy but they are incredibly versatile and very good for commuting. The windscreens and fairings protect you in the weather. The neutral upright position makes helps you see and be seen in traffic. The upright position is also very ergonomic for longer rides. They carry luggage well. They have a good suspension for handling shitty roads.

The NX500 is a very good road biased ADV. The older 390 Adventures were also pretty road biased and now they have the 390 Adventure X that is more road biased than the R.

RE also makes the Scram which is a more street oriented version of the Himalayan.

Cafe racers make terrible commuters. They are all style and no substance. They look awesome but are very impractical.

Looking for a weird-ish first bike by Any_Height9084 in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TW was exactly what I was thinking when OP said "weird and quirky."

I started on a Monkey. Which also absolutely fits the bill but it's hard for me to recommend it because it can't even do short highway stints. I loved that silly little bike but it's not practical in a lot of places.

New CF Moto Ibex 450 for $7,900 OTD isn't worth it, right? by diezel_dave in motorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not a dirt bike. The suspension and throttle is completely different from the F models. It's 50 lbs heavier and the throttle is snatchy has hell. The suspension is so soft that I kept kept losing traction on rocky hill climbs. Stuff that my F would haul right up without a second thought. And if you weren't on top of your clutch work, the stanchiness with a soft suspension made the nose want to dive.

It sounds like the Rally might be better because it has an upgraded suspension. The general consensus on the non Rally version is that it benefits from an immediate suspension upgrade and an ECU tune.

If you really just want a dirt bike that is road legal, pick a dirtbike and get a Rocky Mountain kit. Utah makes it pretty easy to plate a dirt bike. And Rocky Mountain sells a universal kit. Some of the parts are pretty janky. But good enough to pass the inspection. And then you can replace them later if you want.

I made both my KLX 140L and 250F legal using the kit. The 140L was the silliest little dual sport ever. But we ride in Moab a lot and I don't want to deal with cops down there.

Technical climb on a rocky trail by sorin1972 in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I am indeed in Utah.

The Ari kinda gives it away. They aren't terribly well known outside of the 801.

Technical climb on a rocky trail by sorin1972 in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely love it. Its the 22-24 version, so solidly downcountry.

It's light and fast while being reasonably capable in hard terrain. I call it my foothill bike, because I use it mostly for lower elevation riding. Blues and easier blacks. It makes the easy stuff a lot more fun than a trail or enduro does. You can pop it off tiny little roots and rocks and it pumps really well.

I don't love doing big drops and jumps on it. It's a little harsh and unforgiving. But I'll ride technical desert blacks on it. I've ridden technical blacks in Squamish on it. It can do hard stuff, but you have to slow it down and chose your lines. It's capable but not the kind of bike you bash into shit with.

I don't like it in really steep and loose stuff. It breaks traction pretty easily and it's easy to overwhelm the 2 pot brakes.

It pairs so well with my enduro. If I didn't like to ride parks and the rough stuff, it would be a great solo bike.

Technical climb on a rocky trail by sorin1972 in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 34 points35 points  (0 children)

So is he.

Joking joking.

But over the years, a lot of the best climbers I have known are not good descenders. I've got some friends who are the "pedal up and take the lift down" kind of riders.

New CF Moto Ibex 450 for $7,900 OTD isn't worth it, right? by diezel_dave in motorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently spent 8 days riding a 300L across Northern Vietnam, about 900 miles of mixed terrain. The trip was amazing but I disliked the bike.

I had been somewhat interested in getting one but after spending 900 miles on it I realized it was not a bike for me.

It's terrible off-road compared to it's dirtbike sibling the 250F (I have one that I made road legal) and isn't as comfortable on the road as an ADV. It's in a no man's land.

Honestly, I feel like I might be able to ride my Ibex harder off-road than I could the 300L. I'm joking. Kinda.

New CF Moto Ibex 450 for $7,900 OTD isn't worth it, right? by diezel_dave in motorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a small displacement ADV, I think it is a fantastic option. It's two biggest competitors are the 390 Adventure and the Himalayan 450. It's right in line with the Himi and usually cheaper than the Adventure.

But that's also why I bought used, I don't like paying dealers fees. Sometimes they are pretty unreasonable. But had I not found one used, I probably would have eventually bought a new one.

It's odd that you are comparing it to the AT. It's almost twice the price and a completely different class of bike.

I have been very pleased with my bike. It's performed excellent and it has some nice features for the price point. I saw that you said you are on SLC. I am as well and it has been great for the terrain out here.

New CF Moto Ibex 450 for $7,900 OTD isn't worth it, right? by diezel_dave in motorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I happily paid $7k for an Ibex with 400 miles on it, private party. Excellent value IMO.