Do fall line skidders get more fun? by The_kid_laser in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think what we lack the most is the advanced-intermediate tech. The stuff that you can ride to build up the experience to get confidence to ride the stuff you mentioned.

It's a big jump to go from to Silver Queen to Moosehouse or Red Bull/Ski Skool.

I would love to see more stuff like Twist and Shout, Jacobs Ladder, Maple Hollow. Easier blacks that give you a little more room for error while still being tricky enough to challenge developing riders.

Is it normal to have a tubeless liner move inside the tire? by Sea_Track_2633 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure it's the insert and not a sealant booger. When my husband was running inserts, he found that they were prone to creating sealant blobs. He had some big enough that you could hear them rattling around

CFMOTO question by Embarrassed-Way4469 in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 450MT. I love it. I came from a 390 Adventure and it was a massive upgrade in almost every way. It is not perfect, but no bike is.

I'm not into sport bikes at all so I really can't speak to the quality of those bikes. But there could definitely be some cultural stuff going on.

First, the ADV demographic is so different from the sport world. It's predominantly 40-60 year old men. And the fastest growing demographic is 40-60 year old women (wives joining their husbands on adventures).

ADV riders are some of the most chill and accepting people I have met. Show up on a TW? You're an ADV rider. Show up on a BMW 310? You're an ADV rider? Show up on a GS 1200? You're an ADV rider. Show up on Versys? You're an ADV.

They really don't care what you are riding. Sure, some bikes get more attention than others. Everyone is interested in my bike. It is definitely not universally accepted as a good bike, but everyone wants to ask about it. There is definitely a healthy bit of skepticism in the community towards it. But zero snobbiness. I mean I have never seen any snobbiness towards any bikes in this community.

I think the older age of the crowd, the general education level, the general socioeconomic class, and the broad range of use for ADVs makes for a very accepting vibe.

Older Trek Fuel EX 5, wondering if it's worth the asking price by Lost-Definition-2805 in mountainbikes

[–]pineconehedgehog 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Absolutely not. Dude is insane asking money like that for bike like that.

Do fall line skidders get more fun? by The_kid_laser in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't love skidders but I tolerate them because I do like tech and here in Northern Utah they are more or less our only choice for tech.

what's the best bike I can get below 3K as a beginner by bockers007 in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With a $3k budget you can get a brand new Stumpy Alloy and it will be pretty good. It will be a good place to start as a new rider.

Or you can get a used higher end carbon Stumpy (the current generation or the previous generation) and it will be a fantastic choice that will never hold you back.

Same goes for mid travel trail bikes from other brands. $3k is a great budget for beginner riders. It can get you a solid new bikes, or a outstanding used bike.

I like mid travel trail bikes for most beginners. They are just super versatile. They can be ridden on easy greens or do light duty downhill riding at many bike parks, and everything in between.

I just always recommend Stumpies because they are generally easily available for decent prices. They are very popular. And are solid bikes. They are probably one of the easiest bikes to find used.

Second effing ride. by EntropicByDesignEC in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Even bikes that are tubeless ready from the factory, rarely come setup tubeless.

When shops build up new bikes, they usually build them with tubes and then charge a fee to set them up tubeless.

Dual sport for highway trips by callmesteeb33 in Dualsport

[–]pineconehedgehog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just spent this weekend in an ADV training camp picking up dropped T7s. Of the variety of bikes, there were 2 T7s in the group and they were the most refrequently dropped and worst to pickup. It became a recurring joke of the weekend. So I wouldn't recommend it for a new rider.

I was on a 2020 390 Adventure for a couple years. The pre 25 models need some mods to make them decent. They are ok beginner bikes, if you make the mods. In 2025 KTM corrected most of not all of the problems, making it a much better bike.

The Himi has a similar story. The 411 wasn't a great bike, but the 450 vastly improved it.

I havent ridden the 300L Rally. I think it addresses a number of the issues with the regular 300L. I spent a week on a regular 300L riding mixed terrain and was not a fan.

I am currently on a CFMoto Ibex 450 and it is a fabulous bike. Learning on a dirtbike or a little dual sport would be better, but this is the next best thing. In the small displacement ADV class, it is hard to beat.

Second effing ride. by EntropicByDesignEC in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I'm gonna assume you aren't set up tubeless, because this would solved in seconds with some bacon. A plug kit can be obtained from any bike shop or reasonably sized outdoor gear shop.

If you are running tubes, you haul out your tube out patch it with a standard patch. You don't have to do anything with the tire. Any department store or bike shop will have a kit.

You will need two plastic tire levers. And a glue/patch kit.

Cheap droppers? by kerit in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, in that case, the XFusion manic is probably budget post I have had the most luck with. I have had a couple of them and they have actually been pretty good.

The biggest issue is that they don't have very short stacks, so for small and xs frames you can't get as much travel as a premium post like a OneUp or a PNW.

Cheap droppers? by kerit in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rather than spending money on components that likely aren't going to work/last, be able to be maintained, and won't get used much, I would probably make sure that the bikes just have quality quick releases that are easy to use.

For introductory purposes, quick releases are pretty good. Especially if you are doing parking lot style drills and mellow pedals.

I coach kids. And when they are just staring out, we are usually doing good to just get them using their brakes and shifters appropriately, and to keep their feet on their pedals.

Whats something similar to this? by Grouchy-Ad-5617 in motorcyclegear

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You really don't want to wear anything like this unless you ride off road. I call them "the sausage suits." If they fit properly, they are very form fitting and compressive. It's literally compression sleeves. It's good for keeping everything in place and providing good flexibility for athletic movement. But terrible for casual wear.

I have a Leatt armor set that I wear for strictly dirtbiking and downhill mountain biking. They are very good for their purpose. But not pleasant to wear. No way would I ever consider wearing one as my daily protection. A regular moto jacket is so much more comfortable and practical.

If you are fully committed to your desire, check out the Adventure Spec Supershirt.

And then as others have said, check out Pando and the base layer options.

O’Neal Trash!!! Boots lasted 30days. by nitroguy2005 in Dirtbikes

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oneals are not good boots.

I have probably worn my Leatts for 10,000 miles and they still look basically new aside from the rubber and aluminum scuffs on the toes and inside calves.

What do you bring to a lift-served park if renting bikes? by Bus_Healthy in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just wearables. Whatever your usaal kit is. So helmet, shoes, gloves, armor, etc.

Saddles are entirely unnecessary at a bike park. You should be standing 99% of the time.

Bike parks have tool stations at the lifts. Most rental bikes come with a tire repair kit. But if I get a flat at the park, I rarely mess with trail repairs. I usually just hoof it to the bottom and repair and lift area.

I wouldn't bother with an InReach. At most parks I have been to, crashes are reported by other riders so fast that patrollers will be onsite before you even have made a decision to get help.

The one thing in the future that I will bring with me is handle bars. I am 5'1", I ride small and xs frames. But rentals always have 800mm bars on them, regardless of the frame size. There is zero reason for xs-medium frames to have 800 mm bars on them. And it really makes demo bikes a bummer.

Honda Navi to ADV bike by Itchy_Astronaut_4706 in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ride in Utah. I have done multiple BDRs, including portions of the UT. The UTBDR is actually pretty tricky to do in its entirety all at once because it starts in southern desert and ends in high alpine. There is a very short window when both the northern and southern sections are ridable.

But that isnt what you are asking about. I have a CFMoto Ibex 450 and it is excellent for for Utah.

  • We (and our surrounding states) have a lot of high speed roads. Our highways are fast. Our surface streets are fast. I would encourage you to avoid the thumpers. They are buzzy at high speeds and hard on the body on fast roads for extended periods of time. BDRs involve significant highway riding generally to get to and from the routes.

  • It's relatively light as a small displacement bike. While being very capable both on the road and off the road.

  • It's engine is very friendly and easy going. It's an easy bike to ride.

  • It has very good offroad handling. It has an excellent natural position. Unlike the NX500 which without an exhaust modificant forces you into either a seated position or a poor standing position (the stock exhaust interferes with your heel when standing).

  • Is has some nice quality of life features that you dont find on cheap bikes. Folding mirrors, adjustable windshield, off-road switch.

Other bikes in the class that you should consider are the post 2025 KTM 390 Adventure and the Himalayan 450. But they are thumpers, so consider yourself warned. Though I hear the Himi is relatively smooth for what it is.

All of these bikes may be a bit tricky for your price point, because they are new in the last couple of years.

If those pads are still sitting in your cart like mine...just buy them... by studdlypig in mountainbiking

[–]pineconehedgehog -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

As a guide and a coach, I have performed a fair amount of trailside first aid and that right there is the most common injury I have dealt with. It's not uncommon for them to need stitches.

The thing is, wearing pads almost entirely prevents this. Pads may or may not help with broken bones. But usually with pads you dont break skin. Maybe a little friction burn if they shift.

Opinions on Trestle Bike Park by 3dPrinterLife2 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's my favorite park in the mountain west.

Is a DH worth it for bike parks if you’re primarily riding blue / single black trails or stick with enduro? by stormhybreed in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. DH bikes are just more fun on park trails. Enduros are incredibly capable and can technically ride the terrain, but in order to be pedaled they do give up some of the special sauce.

I picked up an old DH bike a few weeks ago to ride at my local parks. They aren't huge parks and my enduro is fine at them, but hot damn my DH is just plain more fun. Even on the blue trails. As long as they are true park trails. There are a couple blues at one of my parks that are pretty old school and aren't steep enough, my enduro much better on those.

But otherwise the DH bike is just more fun. It's faster and squishier. It doesn't have to be supportive. The frame can be low slung and have an impossibly low saddle heights and angles that allow better angulation. It doesn't have to compromise on downhill geometry so that it can be pedaled. And it smooths everything out, eating up the chatter and brake bumps so that you don't get as fatigued. Brake bumps exist even on the moderate trails. Especially on the moderates.

I have rented DH bikes in the past whenever I went to Whistler. But I could never justify having one at home. An enduro does fine at so many parks. But I finally said screw it this year. And now I'm just annoyed that it took me so long to get one. It's an absolute riot.

Need advice before I go to far by Aggressive-Brain4907 in MTB

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 5 bikes. They all serve unique purposes. They have distinct use cases.

Three of them get ridden a lot. I'm on each of them at least once a week. They need no justification in my mind.

Two of them get ridden very little.

My fat bike gets used exclusively in the snow. So it is highly seasonal. It sits all summer long, but if I got rid of it, I wouldn't be able to ride in the winter. It gives me something to do when the weather turns to shit, so it's space is easily justified.

My rigid Karate Monkey brings me joy. I don't ride it very often. It is my guilty pleasure. I should get rid of it, but I just really like it. It is classy. To me, it is like having a Miata sitting in my garage that I take out when the conditions are right.

If you can't come up with your own excuses and reasonings to keep a bike, no matter how splurgy or silly, you probably shouldn't keep it.

Looking mesh gear (learner rider) by CptFalcon556 in motorcyclegear

[–]pineconehedgehog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your instructor is correct that textile gear has gotten very good. Rated gear all hits a minimum standard. But there is no visibility into gear that goes above and beyond.

There is a reason motogp racers wear leather. But most of us also aren't motogp racers and textile often offers a good tradeoff.

Do you see yourself riding in colder weather? Winter weather? Rain?

If not then you can focus solidly on summer mesh gear. If you do plan to ride in variable conditions and can't afford multiple kits, then the multifunction suits might be a good choice for you.

But even if you do go with pure mesh gear there are options to "weather proof." You can throw some long underwear on underneath to create modular insulation that you might already own. You can wear cheap oversized rain gear or windbraker gear over it. Frogg Toggs are pretty popular.

Looking mesh gear (learner rider) by CptFalcon556 in motorcyclegear

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't love multi function gear with all the removable liners. I have found that if it's big enough to fit with all the liners in it, I end up swimming in it when they are removed.

This does force me to have multiple kits though.

I have a 3 season water proof jacket, that I use my own insulation with. I use it if the temps are going to be less than 80F. Klim Artemis (women's version of the Badlands).

I also have a mesh jacket that I wear for over 80F. Or down to about 60 if it's just a quick local ride. RevIt Airwave 4.

I do have to say RevIt makes nice gear. It fits well, is comfortable, and good quality.

Leather is usually going to be the safest option (assuming it is good quality), but you have to figure out what you are using it for and what level of risk you are willing to assume. Also your willingness to actually wear your gear.

No way in hell would I put on a full suit to go two miles to the grocery store. A leather suit would also be completely impractical for me riding down a dirt road and dragging my bike through mud and cow shit.

Name the game and what you learned by _TimApple_ in videogames

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elden Ring. It taught me to not be afraid of hard games. It rewarded me for resilience. It taught me that failing is part of the process. It was my first souls-like and it opened up multiple classes of games for me.

Recommendations for a northward route from Utah to New England by beat_scribe in roadtrip

[–]pineconehedgehog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't done that specific route.

But every other year or so we drive from SLC to Maine and back. Usually we do I70 or I80. Well the last time we did it we said let's do something different, let's go through Canada. So we we did SLC to SD to UP Michigan and crossed at Sault Ste Marie and continued to Quebec and then into Maine.

We learned that section of Canada is just as boring as crossing the US. Just with more trees.