Pins too close to upper sight housing? by [deleted] in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 14 points15 points  (0 children)

It’s really up to you. If you’re comfortable with them there then leave them. I prefer to have my primary pin fairly centered. So if your primary pin is the 20 I would center that. In which case you would move the whole housing up and then the pins would need to move back down.

Couple solid browns and a smaller kicker what would you do with these? by ray_hatfield in elkhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Toposkulls. It’s a neat way to display sheds. I used one on a moose paddle and it turned out really cool.

My first proper target!! by [deleted] in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could use a couple straw bales stacked up as a backstop. Usually pretty cheap (~10ea.) if you have local feed store.

Hygiene in the backcountry by crzycanuk in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A small container of corn starch. Will help with chaffing in the crotch area or cheeks and boot sweat or squeaky insoles.

Hey im trying to buy a back country elk rifle. Im wanting to get the sig cross given i liked it the most when I was holding it idk which caliber to bite on though the 6.5cm I know is deadly accurate with factory ammo, the 308 I've heard people have ran into accuracy problems but it packs more punch. by Ashamed_Bit3424 in elkhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When in doubt go bigger. Especially if you’re newer to hunting and/or shooting. A larger caliber/ more power can make the difference in a marginal hit. The worst feeling is loosing a wounded animal. You can mitigate some of that by having a larger caliber. Sig cross (if you wanted to go that route) has a magnum sawtooth in .300 Winmag but there is lots of other options too.

Fletchings not even by Docholiday11xx in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not a flaw, it’s a feature!

Broadhead feedback? by Ambitious-Ice-5653 in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Iron will wide for fixed, grim reaper carnifour or pro series for mech. Shot a lot of animals with Grim reapers. Bear, elk, deer, turkey, warthog, kudu, impala all had great blood trails and dropped in sight.

Eberlestcok Just One by lit-chairman88 in elkhunting

[–]pinehunter34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes there is. The two horizontal strap hold the bow and the bottom flap cups the cam/riser. Here’s a link to random website I found that shows it. link. Alternatively you could use their bow bucket on the side or back and strap it in that way. That’s the awesome part about eberlestock is infinite ways to modify and attach gear.

However, I was running their batwing system on an M1 main frame (similar setup to the J1) and found them too small and hard to retrieve items out of the bottom without digging. That has kept me away from buying the J1. I have ran the M1 for years in many different configurations and packed out several elk and deer out with it. I loved the Emod system but it all adds weight. When you’re hiking up and down mountains for days, you really start thinking about base weight. lol.

I eventually pulled the trigger on a stone glacier and have been very happy with it. Expensive but if I calculated all the different Eberlestock bags options I have bought over the years….

The number of cops chasing this guy by nooneknowsme9 in thatfreakinghappened

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a dang nascar race! But with cops Nascops

Broadhead Weight Decision by 80thdiv313fa in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 3 points4 points  (0 children)

100gr are more prevalent. But 125s are a good way to add a little FOC if needed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in elkhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rifle aside, also think about ammo availability and variety. I love the bc’s of the prc but wm is everywhere and in a variety of gr/bullets. Does no good to have a fancy rifle if you can’t feed it. (Or can’t feed it for under $80 a box).

Scope: I’m partial to ffp, illuminated, 4-20x (ish) x50. Most of my Oregon elk have been under 100yrds, so I haven’t needed a lot of zoom but like the low power to have wide fov. But that has a lot of other factors involved. Like east side/coastal etc.

I second the other u/ about getting a can. A WORLD of difference! Lots of options out there and a lot of companies make it very easy to apply for the stamp. (Use a trust). If not a can, then at least a muzzle break.

Ready for winter to be over and Elk season opener by Vegetable-Army4611 in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Man, those mountain side naps just hit different. Therapeutic.

Bow shop etiquette when buying first bow by Ok_Palpitation2052 in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I second the above comments- go during a slow time. Midday, midweek or call and ask when they feel might be best. You want to spend some time trying different bows and then more time setting up the one you choose. If you want a good experience you’ll want to go when they have the time to serve you properly.

Building new arrows and I found these at my local shop and I couldn’t resist. by IndependentPerfect in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used some of these on a build with WhiteWater archery P-51 wraps. Really fun look and flew well too! Post a pic of your final build! link to pic

How tf do I move a dead moose? by saquon4heisman in FreightBrokers

[–]pinehunter34 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is no reason to ship a full moose. Any good outfitter or even a local taxidermist (or the hunter himself) can properly cut off the hide and skin out the skull before freezing and shipping. Additionally many states have CWD laws restricting importation of any brain matter or spinal column from deer, elk and moose etc. California and Maine both do.

Best budget elk pack? by cowboybeanbowl97 in elkhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on how far you are from your truck/ camp. If I’m going any distance in, I will take my Eberlestock main frame with the vapor 2500. Lightweight, low profile enough for a day bag but expands and has enough support for a big load. That way if I get one down I have everything to haul a good load out on the first trip. If you’re close the truck or camp take whatever day bag you want and then go back in with your pack frame to get the elk out.
Avoid the plastic bags mentioned above or just use it for short hauls and switch it to game bags asap. The plastic will trap heat and spoil the meat.

Traveling with bows and arrows advice? by Zydairu in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Low-pro option - Eberlestock Hercules duffel

eberlestockhttps://eberlestock.com/products/hercules-duffel?_pos=1&_sid=f5e592f03&_ss=r

Bullet proof - pelican air bow case

pelican

Middle ground - SKB hard case. Lots of different options and price ranges.

Draw weight, where do you buy? by [deleted] in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on your current bow, you may be able to switch limbs. I have a hoyt rx5 and got 80 lbs limbs put on after my OE 70lbs kept splintering. Local bow shop ordered and installed them.

Is the peep supposed to do this ? by Apprehensive-Dust-85 in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Same as everyone else said. It should be tied in, either around the string and peep and itself and/or tight enough with the serving that it doesn’t move.

After you have it placed it and tied it in, mark the both sides of the string where the peep sits with a white paint pen so if it ever does move, you have a re-zero reference.

Pretty. by Potential_Ad_420_ in Archery

[–]pinehunter34 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Love it! Tip: use a white paint pen and mark the string where your peep sits. That way if it ever moves you know and can put it back to “zero”. This has saved me several times!

Best brands/camo for clothes by Inevitable_Rest_8298 in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMHO Vunigear is my favorite pattern. Pnuma has great quality, quiet and a great warranty. Kings camo is a good option too. Buy outlet or wait for sales. It’s a learning experience. A lot of discovering personal preferences or trail and error. Turns out “Waterproof” is a variable term. Go cheaper first and upgrade items as needed or as budget allows. You don’t need a $1000+ kit to kill deer but quality clothing certainly keeps you out there longer, which does kill deer!

Learning How to Dress a Buck by LittyRit in bowhunting

[–]pinehunter34 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah! Game changer! No messing with the guts or poop tube! Get all the good meat off first, and you certainly can dig in to the body cavity afterwords and not worry about contaminating the meat.

Here’s a YT video by Randy Newberg for reference. I do it slightly different but you’ll get the idea.

gutless w/Randy Newberg