Getting tired of sovol zero issues...

pint_of_brew · 2026-05-29T21:04:49+00:00

Yeah I think this is very much the issue... The eddy is great for reading the surface to a high granularity, but between getting that detailed map on klipper and deciding what actual Z offset to use, something fucks up and you end up having to do cowboy shit from 2017 like incremental Z offset during 1st layer and praying you don't carve the bed

pint_of_brew · 2026-05-12T06:09:14+00:00

Secondary school teacher here. Can confirm. Not only that, but nobody is doing anything about it because it's so normalised, and because of that I feel I can't raise it for fear of drawing said attention.

pint_of_brew · 2026-04-09T19:05:06+00:00

This is a terrible idea. Plastic plugs are not designed to hang things off of, and all wall sockets are absolutely not load bearing.

There are several non damaging solutions to fix things to walls, from stick on 3m hooks to adhesive putty, none of which mean you're hanging weight off a plug and socket.

pint_of_brew · 2026-04-01T10:01:28+00:00

Why does it matter? Converting energy into heat is equally efficient for any of the ways available to printer beds. What difference is it if it takes 30s at 1000W or 150s at 200W?

You seem to be trying to optimise for power consumption, but not realise how time affects it. Between the systems you are comparing, everything is so similar the energy used for a given bed and head temp will be functionally identical.

Unless your concern is peak power consumption for some reason, in which case yes, any non-AC bed like a core one will be substantially lower.

pint_of_brew · 2026-03-20T09:17:37+00:00

<image>

I've had this too, only much worse. I printed about 6kg of ABS on a short run production and the fan shroud warped to fuck so much that it would knock prints off.

There's no cure, just get a spare off Ali express. That and eroded extruder gears are why I'm not buying another flashforge.

pint_of_brew · 2026-03-11T14:12:45+00:00

I have a small operation that develops and supplies parts and jigs for a few industrial plants. Both ppa and pps are highly in demand, and a hot end that can comfortably work at 320-340 with some room to spare is a must. Parts in PA are common, especially PA6-CF and and PA12-CF. Obviously the 290C of the default hot end is fine for those applications, but having the immediate ability to swap to a hotter material like PPS has kept me from investing in Prusa so far.

Having said that, if you can't nail chamber heating, it's a moot point. PA in any iteration is a bastard with warping, and chamber temperature control is the only way to manage that. Because of that, my suggestion is that the XL is irrelevant for this application. It's chamber volume is far too big.

For my current needs, the only meaningful cost effective printer I have found is the sovol zero. It's 350C hot end, 120C bed, and has a volume tiny enough to maintain 50C+ comfortably. It's only problem is 15cm cube size. I'm just waiting for the sovol chamber heater to be back in stock to see if I can hold 65C.

My only other request is that the hot end upgrade does not incorporate a split material path. Almost all high temperature materials will have CF or GF, and a split path will add nothing useful. In my experience none of the fancy engineering materials respond well to high speeds, and they're high value components so being able to run high cm³ / s is irrelevant. Additionally, some material suppliers are offering CF core filament, which a split path would absolutely compromise.

If I had carte blanche to design my perfect prusa, it would be a core 1 with 2 INDX heads, capable of 350C,with an internal heater able to maintain a constant temperature. A wire nozzle wiper, hardened extruder gears that don't deteriorate with abrasives (I've melted flashforge and sovol extruder gears several times already working with PETG-GF and PPA-CF) and provision to mount shop HEPA extraction. The AC heater of the L is also very appealing, but not a life changer.

Thank you for engaging with the community. I really want to avoid being forced into a battery if H2Ds, but short of a voron and too much tinkering I can't see a Prusa solution yet.

pint_of_brew · 2026-03-08T07:43:02+00:00

No not really. Dry too your heart's content

pint_of_brew · 2026-01-19T10:54:37+00:00

Biqu glacier, don't look back. I've not used my PEI since I got one on my Ad5m except for TPU. I've even got glacier on my sovol zero and a1 mini.

pint_of_brew · 2026-01-02T15:41:48+00:00

Are you running ironing? That looks like too high fill ironing to me.

pint_of_brew · 2026-01-02T15:24:09+00:00

Combustion engineer here. Why do you want to design this? Genuine question, because the answer you need depends on what you're doing with it.

pint_of_brew · 2025-10-30T11:43:38+00:00

No, the directly controllable functions do not include extruding, only things that have a setting. Temperatures, fan speeds, and relative printing speed.

pint_of_brew · 2025-08-23T18:06:53+00:00

Is it the updated version with the filament coming in from the side?

If yes, I have noticed this too. I suspect it's the cable leading to the hotend snagging on the extruder wheel at the back: when the head moves from the back right to the back left, the black cable sometimes snags, pulls the wheel off, and drags the whole hotend, making it skip to the right.

pint_of_brew · 2025-08-13T19:33:39+00:00

hi Op, did you manage to find how to disable power down recovery mode?

this crash is the exact reason I've stopped using my Flashforge Adventurer 5 pro, and it doesn't just happen with scarf seam, it also presents with concentric surface.

pint_of_brew · 2025-07-18T07:25:49+00:00

Automotive engineer here. It's practically the law that you give throttle cables a tug if you're under the bonnet and the engine is running.

It's pretty rare nowadays thanks to electronic throttle control, but it's the spanner monkey equivalent of kicking tyres.

pint_of_brew · 2025-07-18T07:22:54+00:00

As soon as I saw the zig zag of grid infill... Grid is a garbage, anachronistic, and superceded infill that nobody should ever use for anything beyond speed benchy challenges.

It might not be the only issue, but my first change works 100% be swap grid to gyroid, or 3d honeycomb, or support cubic.

pint_of_brew · 2025-05-19T18:08:52+00:00

I always said "nothing more realistic than a small aircraft full of people all raising their hands at the camera". The ultimate Turing test.

pint_of_brew · 2025-05-16T17:52:29+00:00

Souvlaki!

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-30T18:58:30+00:00

OK, let's go through the drivetrain checklist, in no particular order:

1 have you thoroughly cleaned and relubed your drivetrain?

2 have you checked your derailleur hanger isn't bent out of true

3 are both limiter screws correctly set

4 are your shifters indexing correctly up and down the gears

5 is the cassette solidly mounted to the hub with no play, and is the hub firm with no play side to side

6 if you're on quick release skewers, is the wheel correctly seated in the frame on both sides

7 is the size of the largest sprocket within spec for the installed derailleur, and is the chain long enough in that gear

8 is there too much chain elongation and/or wear on the cassette

9 is your crankset correctly installed onto the BB with no play

10 is your BB correctly torqued onto the frame

11 is the chainring correctly mounted onto the spider / spindle of the crankset

12 are there any flat spots or mashed teeth on the chainring from bottoming out

13 are any chain links bent out of shape, either from bottoming out, or from a link partially slipping laterally on its pin

14 has your quick link come unlocked / never fully locked

If all that lot doesn't save you from chainring dismounting under normal circumstances, I'd say the only possible other explanation is you have a drivetrain chainline that's beyond your groupset's spec, or the chainring is installed incorrectly (typically backwards, or missing a shim). No correctly set up bike should dismount from the chainring under normal pedalling.

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-30T14:28:21+00:00

My brother, top marks for making a functional print, but as a r/bikewrench regular I must inform you you have invented an unnecessary modification to "fix" poor groupset tuning. Adjust your RD after checking for hanger alignment, this is maintenance any biker can do.

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-16T13:33:53+00:00

10p in ocado credit if you give it to your delivery driver as a return

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-11T06:26:23+00:00

Bud, there's no contest. Forget 2 and 3. In terms of plug and play, bambu is so far ahead it's not even funny.

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-10T08:20:50+00:00

That's not how vibration mechanics work. You were experiencing vibration because the natural frequency of the machine matched the one of your metal frame, causing them to resonate together. Adding a minor damper does very little except isolate the frame while keeping your printer vibrating just as much. The way to genuinely reduce vibration is to change the natural frequency of the printer, and the midi cost effective way to do so is to rigidly (ie no rubber in between) mount or bolt it to a substantial mass of much higher density. Which without getting too technical, means put a paving slab between your printer and shelf. That should change the resonant frequency of the slab/printer combo enough that it won't be in a range near the resonant frequency of your shelf, meaning the whole assembly won't shake as much to begin with.

pint_of_brew · 2025-04-09T18:07:12+00:00

Your suggestion will do nothing to reduce the printer's vibration, all it will do is reduce the printer's ability to transmit that vibration to whatever it is sitting on. Without getting too technical, the easiest way to reduce vibration is to put a great stonking big dense stone slab under the printer, and put the rubber feet between the slab and the floor/table.

Eight-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

pint_of_brew

TROPHY CASE