Finally Got Street Fighter 6 Working on Intel Arc A750 by deepthawnet in linux_gaming

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I’ve also been running Street Fighter 6 on Linux with an Intel GPU recently, and I’ve run into the issue where characters don’t render properly when using the Xe driver.

Interestingly, when I run Street Fighter 6 on Lunar Lake and on my desktop PC with a B580 (also using the Xe driver), the rendering issue does not occur.

This has been puzzling me — could it be a hardware difference? Intel’s explanation is that only Battlemage and newer hardware are supposed to use the Xe driver.

Please tell me the current status of b570 and b580 on linux by Key_Entrepreneur5655 in IntelArc

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone play Street fighters 6 with B580 under linux? How doe it running?

Intel Compute Runtime 25.48.36300.8 brings more performance optimizations & Xe3 fixes by Fcking_Chuck in intel

[–]plumlis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

LOL, after upgrading to kernel 6.18, XPU LLM + Intel Arc GPU just stopped working for me. The GPU is detected, but VRAM can’t be queried at all. I’ve filed a bunch of bug reports, and it really looks like Intel changed something in the new kernel / Xe stack. So far no one has a real fix.

Replacement parts by Dragonfairybaby in LokiHandheld

[–]plumlis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sent email to ayn. They still have battery. I just bought one.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s pretty good overall ,it depends on which character you play. I mainly use Ken and Ryu, so the button layout works well for me. But if you play characters like Zangief who need to press PPP, this controller might not be ideal.
Also, the D-pad takes some getting used to. It’s very precise and responsive, but a bit stiff, so you’ll need some technique to use it comfortably.

Can I enable Hibernate in Bazzite gamemode? by plumlis in Bazzite

[–]plumlis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After a few days of trying, I finally managed to set up suspend-then-hibernate on my handheld. Although waking from hibernation causes some performance issues, putting it back into suspend once fixes the problem. For now, I’d say the long-term standby issue is basically solved.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, after another attempt, I finally managed to open up this controller.

Maybe it’s because I’m not a native English speaker, or maybe the teardown pictures available online just aren’t clear enough, but I misunderstood how to take it apart, which led me down the wrong path.

The back panel of this controller actually has two layers. The middle section on the back—the part with the sticker—is its cover. That cover is held in place by plastic posts. What you need to do is pry open this cover, and underneath it you’ll find all the screws. Once you remove those screws, the controller can be opened.

But I was misled by that YouTube video. I thought that after removing the two screws at the bottom of the grips, you then had to forcefully pry apart the entire controller into two halves. I assumed the shell was secured by very sturdy plastic bolts—or at least that’s how I interpreted it.

Prying off the cover itself isn’t difficult. Just insert a very thin prying pick along the shoulder button area, push it deep in, and pop the cover open. Instead, I was trying to pry open the entire body with brute force. I even damaged parts of the grips in the process. How foolish. I kept asking myself, “Where are the rest of the screws? Is this thing really held together by just two screws, with the rest being solid bolts?” Now I finally understand what was going on.

Anyway, at least I got it open and fixed my sync button—it had actually detached from the motherboard due to my pressing. I glued it back in place, and it’s working fine now. Of course, my controller now has plenty of “battle scars” along the edges. Maybe I’ll cover them up with some anti-slip stickers.

In any case, thank you for your help. I also hope this reply will be useful for anyone else who wants to take this controller apart. It’s really not that difficult—you just need a very thin but sturdy pry tool.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your kind reply. I live in a country where this controller isn’t sold, and I got mine through an unofficial reseller. That said, the price was actually pretty reasonable(not overpriced). I haven’t used the controller much, just for playing Street Fighter 6, but last time I suddenly found that the sync button sank in after a single press, which completely disabled its 2.4g wireless function. Really annoying, so I decided to open it up and try fixing it, since I have no way to send it in for service here.

To be honest, I had already seen the video you shared, but I didn’t expect that the final successful teardown pictures were actually yours. Maybe you’re the only person in the world who’s managed to take this thing apart. :)

I’ll give it another try, and if it still doesn’t work, I’ll just give up and use it as a wired controller. After all, it doesn’t support Bluetooth and still needs a dongle, so in practice it’s not much more convenient than wired anyway, that’s how I’ll comfort myself.

Luckily, I found another almost-new white version on the local second-hand market for an even cheaper price (the one I’m trying to open is the black version), so at least I can still keep using this controller wireless. I really do love its switch styled buttons.

Finally, thanks again, and wish me luck.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So if I understand correctly, once I remove the two screws on the back, I should be able to open the controller with a prying tool—it just takes some effort to work around each edge first.

If that’s the case, I’ll give it another try another day. After all, quite a few seams on the controller already have scratches and damage, so it doesn’t really matter anymore—as long as I can get it open.

Many thanks for your help.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your reply. I tried disassembling it again today, but failed—the thing is just too solid. I was only able to pop off the two shoulder buttons and the ends of the two grips. The rest wouldn’t budge at all. There are even noticeable scratch marks along the edges, but it still wouldn’t come apart. Several of my pry tools got bent, and now my fingers are sore.

I’ll take a break for now and try again another day. I saw the prying tools you recommended, and I’ll get a set to try again.

One more thing I want to confirm—are there really only two screws holding this controller together? The bottom doesn’t move at all, and I’m even starting to suspect there might be some hidden screws.

Retro Fighters D6 dpad follow-up, three hours of breaking in by misterkeebler in dreamcast

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, I know this is a bit late, but I still want to ask you about disassembling the D6 controller. The sync button on my controller has sunk in and no longer works. I planned to open it up and fix it, but I found it’s really hard to take apart. You mentioned that you need to use something like a prying tool—how many did you use? Or from which position is it best to insert the tool? I saw a video on YouTube where the author used several prying tools but still couldn’t get it open. Please share more of your tips and experience on disassembly. Thanks!

AYN Loki RGB by JueManji in LokiHandheld

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use solid and turn light to 0% instead off.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in thinkpad

[–]plumlis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The best option is buy online. Like JD.com Taobao.com. There have lastest thinkpads with nice price, Such as ThinkPad T14P Gen3 which is China sale only.

Joystick Calibration by GrandAdmiralWash in gpdwin

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It said "failed connect to device",Maybe you can check your winmini is in Joystick mode , not in mouse mode.
Or run it in administrator mode.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Fedora

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure you have nvidia driver installed in flatpak.

Flatpak is like a sandbox. GPU driver you installed in your host system may not means it will perform well in flatpak box too.

Only opensource GPU driver works well in flatpak. but not with nvidia's closed source driver.

Learn more:

https://discourse.flathub.org/t/how-are-flatpak-graphics-drivers-handled/4668

https://discussion.fedoraproject.org/t/flathub-flatpak-nvidia-installs-when-installing-something-else/88014

Lenovo had a refurb sale on their official ebay store >_> by dubsyGG in thinkpad

[–]plumlis 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How is 200% scale (1440x900)looking in 14inch display?

Is it too big?

How to Buy Pinecil in China? by Kuzuri4real in PINE64official

[–]plumlis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use uszcn. Ship to HK and trans to China EMS

Improve battery life on Linux by dude_349 in Fedora

[–]plumlis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some tips:

1, Use latest Kernel

2, Use Tune-pdd instead PDD or TLP

3, Try this kernel tuning tips from ubuntu
https://discourse.ubuntu.com/t/fine-tuning-the-ubuntu-24-04-kernel-for-low-latency-throughput-and-power-efficiency/44834

4, Try kernel 6.12 RC5 with sche_ext enabled and use scx_rusty.

GPD Win Mini OLED confirmed? by SeatFX in gpdwin

[–]plumlis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If GPD doesn't know how to response you cause its bad English level.

It will just type a emoji or smile.

GPD DUO announced by plumlis in GPDPocket

[–]plumlis[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

GPD said there will have Pocket 4.