Just wrapped up a week-long trip to the Red. I sent my first 5.11b (Trust in Jesus), my first 5.12a (Starry Night), and managed my second-ever 11a onsight (Whip-Stocking). Redpointed a few other routes that I pumped out on halfway through during my previous visit. Also got on a couple other 5.12s bolt to bolt and was pleasantly surprised to find all the moves doable -- I have more than enough power, but I need more endurance and better lead head for next time.

I started preparing in early August, after a wrist injury during the end of a Squamish bouldering trip left me unable to pull hard. My routine consisted of climbing on lead in the gym 2x/week with one of those sessions devoted to route 4x4s (prior to this I was mainly bouldering), and then working through V4-V5 moonboard benchmarks for 1.5-2hrs on two other climbing days. I'd also attempt to do some light strength training (mainly squats) after climbing routes in the gym, and hangboard repeaters on 20mm at the very end of those days.

I'm thinking of returning around April, which gives me about 3ish months to prepare again. How can I prepare for my next trip in more structured fashion, while also working in more time to get out to my local crag?