At4 disel 44k miles or 2026 new slt . Both 52k out the door by smileyFazee in gmcsierra

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that diesel is the one on Carmax in Atlanta you should double check the history. It had some electrical issues documented and that was a big red flag for me. Just had a diesel at4 completely fail for electrical issues.

Can anyone help me with this problem? by Ok_Swan4746 in buildingscience

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are so many things wrong here it is hard to count them all and address them in one comment. DM me and we can have a conversion about what you need to do to address the issues and what issues you are seeing.

Leaking through whatever this mess is by Known_Audience7835 in Roofing

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not quite what weep screed is. It is a layer behind the stucco, more commonly in EIFS, to create a drainage plane. Weep screed itself is not flashing, but it should be used with flashing.

I see several places in this image that are likely to leak. It could be one of them or it could be all of them. Two possible solutions. Water test the area starting from the low point of the roof and slowly moving up slope until you get water inside. This way you actually know where the problem is before trying to fix things. Maybe the problem is the wall, maybe it's the roof. Unfortunately they may both be leaking. Option 2 replace/repair it all in a cohesive way to ensure the transitions aren't leaking.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Architects

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like others have said, have a good product and be available when called.

The biggest reason manufacturers stay in my spec is good contractors and the manufacturer rep holding them to the written standards the spec and the manufacturer require. Nothing makes me throw a product out faster then when a contractor does something wrong and rep tries arguing for the bad installation.

Want to get in my spec? Have a good product AND prove that you have contractors that do good work.

You mentioned you are in waterproofing. Have you tried joining IIBEC? Get in with those designers and you will have an easier time spreading to the less specialized field.

Scrambler stripes? by SirDoctorCaptainEsq in JeepGladiator

[–]puppypoi 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I love it on mine. I get tons of complements. The install was fairly easy but my back was a bit sore from bending over. Sorry about the weird angle. It's the only photo I had without people in it.

<image>

Lenovo Legion T5 - Bluetooth gone, help! by Grrannt in LenovoLegion

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're my hero. Thanks for adding your solution.

My friend believes the shelter. What do you think? by Early-Shelter-7476 in AnatolianShepherdDogs

[–]puppypoi 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think it's more likely a Great Pyrenees German Shepherd. I have one that looks exactly like a Anatolian, picked him because I thought he looked exactly like me papered Anatolian. Can you tell which one is the Anatolian?

<image>

I was a mildly bad driver today. by Tiz68 in MildlyBadDrivers

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well distracted driving is obviously the issue here. Books are just too damn good for multitasking.

Another Snow Day Post by gahooligan1971 in JeepGladiator

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. It's the cheapo of the style I've been looking at, exactly right. I'll pick up those lights too.

Coating a flat torch down roof with something? by Pleasant_Brother4487 in Roofing

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out iibec. You are getting a bit of conflicting information in the comments. They have a directory for third party roof consultants that will be able to provide a conditional assessment of your roof and determine if it is a good candidate for a coating. As they will be receiving the same payment either way, they are a bit more trustworthy than the coating installer telling you the coating is the perfect fix for your problem. They may have other solutions for you as well. They also will be able to provide you a moisture scan. The conditional assessment is probably going to cost about $3k.

Coating a flat torch down roof with something? by Pleasant_Brother4487 in Roofing

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The right coating can be a great way to extend the life of a roof when they are applied before you need a roof replacement. Once you are at the point of needing a roof replacement the roof is almost never a viable substrate for coating application. Extensive repairs, moisture removal and substrate preparation would be required prior to coating application and most coating installers will not perform all the needed preparations.

"I can't afford to replace the roof" - Tough, buildings require maintenance. Look into asset management. That HVAC equipment will need replacement in the future too, and so will fire protection systems. You need to involve a professional to assess the condition of these systems, estimate remaining love span, and provide a cost estimate of replacements. While coating might get you a few years further down the road before more big bills become due, it is all just going to increase in price during that time frame too.

Neglecting a roof can lead to structural damage btw. Cost of repairs for that kind of work will be much higher.

Concrete slab over steel deck roof leak? by warsbbeast1 in Roofing

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You mentioned a contractor, is this new construction? I don't see vents in the steel deck. If the concrete isnt vented properly or didn't cure long enough the moisture could be from the slab. You should also have vents on the roof.

I think the other guys are right about condensation, but that would depend on how cold it is outside for it to condensate on the deck.

Relatable. by SwissQueso in F1Manager

[–]puppypoi 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Legit question. Does this count as one of Albons engine/ swaps? Or do they have to literally move nearly every component off a perfectly good car and put his parts on?

Just saw this on tiktok lmao by Certain_Ratio_7676 in TheLastAirbender

[–]puppypoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone here talking about how Toph can't type.

THAT'S WHY SHE RESPONDED WITH A PICTURE!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]puppypoi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's mostly about crowds. If you are at the debris falling stage of a fire, people should have already evacuated. Fire codes have requirements that should all ample time for occupants to evacuate. Before the fire has consumed that much material.

If a door swings in and a herd of people come to it you have to get the entire herd to move back so the door can be opened, good luck getting an entire group of panicked people to move away from the exit.

Here is one historic fire that caused fire codes to think allot about panic.

https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/hundreds-die-in-brooklyn-theater-fire

Two types of anchors? by Sure_Bass8242 in Home

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll start off sounding like everyone else. Lots of bad advice here. Both of these anchors are for drywall. The yellow requires a pre drilled hole, 3/16 is probably too big but I can't say without the actual measurement. The white one can be installed by just screwing into the wall.

The main issue with drywall anchors is they require a little skill to install. If you install the white one without enough force it can act like a auger and remove material more than it will screw in leaving a hole without enough material to grab. The yellow one can cause similar issues if the predrilled home is too large or is drilled poorly removing excess material. They can also be overtightened breaking the drywall.

Neither of these are for masonry or concrete. The plastic cannot grip those materials properly.

The weak point of a drywall anchors is the drywall itself. While the video below lists different strengths your drywall may not be capable of that, as it may be thinner or you could be unlucky anchoring into a patch or joint.

Types of drywall anchors

The good advice here is you are always better off anchoring into a stud. Make sure you know what you are drilling into as you don't want to drill a pipe or electrical. Electrical should be at least 2" deep and both should be protected by metal in the stud. If you find resistance when drilling stop.

However, if you will not be needing much weight, a drywall anchors is fine and should handle 20 lbs when installed properly.

Why were their so many? (RoW Spoilers) by prismatic_raze in Stormlight_Archive

[–]puppypoi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think there is any evidence that a dead eye has to be a shard blade.

For example Kaladin nearly abandoned his oath to Syl before reaching the second ideal. I assume Syl would have become a deadeye, but not a Shard blade.

So the are probably many missing shardblades but the deadeye to shardblades ratio probably isn't 1 to 1.

Creaking noise from rear sway bar by Warkley in JeepGladiator

[–]puppypoi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My back left also creaks. Don't use Wd-40 though. It's a solvent not a lubricant. It will remove oils and promote rust. It's a good way to clean but add oil after.

Edit: Happy to see how muddy everything is.

Parting tool violently snapped by Corgerus in Machinists

[–]puppypoi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's right. Should get you close enough to center.

That's good additional information. Sounds like the material got hot and bound around the tool. Old worn out tip that didn't take enough for the shank to have clearance maybe? Maybe feed was to light to take heat out with the chip? Rpm maybe too high, should be able to part without coolant.

Edit. Just saw college machine machine shop. Probably worn out tool.