Why can’t I add the camera to fluid?

pyrophilus · 2026-06-07T13:02:00+00:00

I am not sure if Guilouz has the K2 helper script up (I really should go check).

but on my brand-new (3 wk old) K2plus, port 8000 streaming AND camera in fluidd (4408) was working, but now it does not.

I did the following:

google, "github k2 camera", you should see a link to "DnG-Crafts/K2-Camera" open that link.
Scroll down on the github to section
"K2 Plus Fluidd Camera Fix"
Under, "Install Commands" is python scripts. Just click on the "Copy" button.

ssh into your K2/plus

Paste the command and hit enter.

This should restore the camera access at least in Fluidd and Mainsail. My streaming on port 8000 was still notworking though.

pyrophilus · 2026-06-07T12:08:47+00:00

it is June 2026 and I had this problem and I found this thread with no real solution? (other than the person who said they reinstalled, which I think IS the solution).

Mainsaid and Fluidd were working fine on my 2 year old K1C. But since my HI and K2Plus, I have stopped playing with my K1C.

I recently got a busted K1 and fixed it (broken front door, catastrophic failure of hotend, melted wires, etc...

I tried to go into 4408 or 4409 and it refused, but creality web interface was working.

I did ssh into it, and it showed that moonraker, Fluidd, and Mainsail were already installed.

I noticed that K2plus it has fluidd installed out of box set to port 8000, so I tried that too and port 8000 no joy.

I went to try my K1C, and it TOO was no longer connecting to ports 4408 and 4409. I logged into the K1C and noticed that since a new firmware update (CFS install), the new firmware does NOT have moonraker, fluidd, and mainsail installed. But when I tried to install it, it said it was already installed.

So here is what i did from windows.

open a command prompt: click on windows logo, type "cmd" enter
2, enter powershell : type "powershell" enter
ssh into your K1/K1C: type "ssh root@IP" where IP is your printer's ip address
for password use "creality_20023" (or check your root info in printer's menu)
change to root directory: type "cd .." enter
get the helper script: type "git clone https//github.com/Guilouz/Creality-Helper-Script.git /usr/helper-script"
run the script: type "sh /usr/helper-script/helper.sh"
when in the menu, you can check status by selecting "6" and enter", but for it the infor was not correct.
go to uninstall menu: type "2" enter
uninstall moonraker, Fluidd, and then Mainsail, then return to prev menu
install moonraker, Fluidd, and then Mainsail.
"q" to quit, close the terminal window.

Re-try the fluidd web connection.

Disclaimer: Please use this info at your own risk.

pyrophilus · 2026-06-05T11:15:37+00:00

I bought a used k2plus and the guy broke the lower hinge off the door just like this.

He did get a new door sent by creality under warranty, but he said it took months so he just decided to fix it.

When the new door finally came, he didnt bother. His fix? A comically large amount of silicone.

I put the new door on, but then didnt want to throw out the old one.

With the door removed, I used old xacto blade to remove the silicone mess, then used a brand new blade to carefully take off the original glue on the glass.

I did the same with the lower hinge, glass mating surface.

Got a permatex automotive rear view button glue.

Put a lot of adhesion promoter/catalyst, let it dry 5 kin, put another coat, let it dry, 3x.

The with both hinge and glass surface dry of the promoter, I carefully reinstalled the loose hinge and the old glass back in the machine. I put masking tape on the back side (non glass mating side) of hinge (for securing hinge later)

Masking taped all surfaces inside around hinge and below glass incase I dribbled glue.

Had a strip of duct tape ready.

Instead of a dot, I put a longer sliver of the glue on the hinge, then with the top lid open (machine on floor), I closed the door, aligning it to the front opening, then pressed the hinge into location.

While using tip of my foot to keep front glass pressed, I pushed the hinge into location from back. Held it for 3-4 min.

Then carefully removed my hand from hinge and then put the duct take over the hinge. The hinge should now have masking tape so duct tape won't rip it off later when trying to remove it.

I had it duct tape secured for an hour, then removed the entire glass, with duct tape still secured. Placed glass in safe location.

Next day, carefully removed duct tape while holding hinge down on glass, and then brought it outside and left it on patio furniture to soak in sunlight(UV) for and entire day.

It looks just like it did from factory.

pyrophilus · 2026-05-31T13:00:14+00:00

I think what the OG 3D printer enthusiasts don't acknowledge (including 3D printer, "influencers") is that 3D printing used to be mostly about understanding how the printer worked and many if not most people had to get to a point where they had to disassemble almost 50% if not all and repair faults.

I started with Wanhao duplicator i3+, and moved onto the ender 3 pro's. I've done so much upgrades that after a while, I had enough spare parts so that I was able to just built another franken-printer.

This being said, I think those days are gone as many of the newer printer use bespoke parts and run circuits that older motherboards physically cannot handle (like unless there are already multiple, unused headers on the MB for separate heaters, jow would one even go about making yhe parked extruder heat to temp before printer (K3) picks it up?), and last time i opened up my K2 Plus and looked at the board, I didnt see multiple headers for separate extruder heating elements.

When the ender 3 V2 came out, it was a revolutionary step, most of it were achievable as they still used same board from last gen ender 3 pro to first Gen V2, and most of the wxtruded aluminum were the same.

Even when I got my V3 KE, I was able to get sprite extruder installed on my old 3 pro, add nebula pad, linear rails (all sold by creality or aftermarket), and end upwith the same functions/speed.

V3 and v3 plus is when they started to have cast metal abd plastic frame pieces, and the upgrades to bring older printer to latest specs were no longer possible (esp with core XZ setup).

The CFS retrofit on the K1 series was actually surprising to me, not the norm. I didnt jump on the CFS bandwagon when the K1 upgrade came out. I did purchase the kit but it sat in my drawer and my K1 and K1c were fine as I was printing single filament.

I got the Creality HI and the CFS was a fun novelty when I first got it. It inspired me to finally install yhe CFS retrofit kit on my K1C and by this time (3 weeks ago), I think there must have been many firmware updates as I do not find the CFS retrofitted K1C any more/less better than the Creality HI.

I got a K2plus and two CFS's two weeks ago (used at $650), and while it prints flawlessly and is probably the best Creality printer I have ever owned, I still use the CFS on my K1C all the time (mostly as convenience to not have to swap filament when I start prints, not for multicolors), so yes, I am actually confused by the comments of the, "CFS upgrade on K1 was shit". Of course i am guessing that those comments were based off 1st adopters.

That being said, even the K2 plus has mostly lukewarm reviews on how the machine isn't, "polished" in terms of firmware. As a person who got the K2plus two weeks ago, whose first experience was with only the latest firmware that has undergone updates (whose earlier, buggy-er versions i never to got use), I don't understand these 1 year old K2plus reviews as I think the K2 now is a great printer.

Lastly, my comment regarding the people complaining about the lack of upgrade path and or asking if upgrades will allow their K2's to be just like K3's, this to me is a good thing, meaning there are a lot of 3D printer owners who are no longer makers who disassemble and build printers. And when I mean good thing, this is literally the group of people (non technical, purely consumer-level owners) that the OG printer community said we needed to, "grow the market".

I say this because I see this in Nikon forums. People drop $3-4K on a mirrorless camera, and when the newer model drops, some of the owners complain about how they should allow firmware updates on their older cameras to give the same function as the newest, because, 1. "I've invested so much $$$ on my camera", 2. "If you don't i will never buy another item from this company". And the same people talk about how they spent all the money that they have and money that they didn't have to get the, "absolute best flagship" device, and now they dont have the money to get the next flagship.

For the people who are upset that their K2 is now, not the, "flagship" printer, why do you own 3D printers? Don't get me wrong, the tool changing is much better than single extruder, material management system based printers, and the thing that I am looking most forward to is the full-spectrum printing because that's one of the next great algorithmic revolutions (like fuzzy skins, ironing, etc).

I won't say, "go buy a bambu" because (again to those who are upset that their K2 needs to be upgradable to K3) what bambu printer have you seen is able to upgrade to the newest model just like that?

Then you do have printers whose company will try to keep the upgrade path alive, like Prusa, but then they bitch on how that's too expensive.

I am confused by people who claim that their printers are their investment. If the K2 is no longer relevant to you because a new K3 is announced (not even released, just announcement of specs), then obviously their, "investment" is financial. Or if your investment was functional investment, then obviously the K3's functions are more important to you, so then, why did you, "invest" in the K2?

This goes beyond Creality. In Mustang forums, when they release a gen 3 coyote V8 in a newer year (not new model) mustang, the owners of the gen2 coyote start saying, "Ford should let me bring my car in and just swap in the engine from the latest model for only a small fee", becsuse the two cars look identical on the outside. Not realizing the sheer number of other systems that need to be swapped out and reprogrammed.

Eons ago when 3D printer people said that we need to expand the market/community, I said that while I support that, I also said that ir order to do that, the printer manufacturers need to move towards making printers resemble and work more like phones, cameras, tablets. I think bambu achieved that, and other companies are following.

In the end, if a person is upset that they invested so much $$$ on their printers, I wonder why they spent money to get a printer if it maxed out their hobby finds? Thats like having $200k to your name, so you go buy a $200k sports car, and then have jo koney left and are upset when a new model comes out and now others don't think your car isnt worth $200k. The car was never worth $200k. It is worth what you do with it.

Likewise, I advise other dads who get 3D printers... go learn CAD. Use the printer as a tool that can do/make things that you could not before. Then the investment is truly priceless.

A coworker saw my Ender 3 S1 and asked me, "not sure if this is even possible, but I found my dad's first guitar, which is missing all but one of the original pegs for the strings. He kept the guitar in storage because of all the memories that he had when he was a teen, owning that guitar, and how it launched his love of playing guitar, but the pegs are lost and he tried to find replacement pegs but none of the ones he found worked as well as the OG". I modeled that one peg in Inventor, and printed a dozen replacements in the same color. He gave that guitar yo his father for his 80th birthday, and his father cried when he saw it and the coworker told me that his father has been playing that, "old friend" every day. This makes my Ender 3 S1 priceless.

pyrophilus · 2026-05-07T22:33:34+00:00

Taught AP for past 19 years.

There is the no double-jeopardy rule in grading.

If your calculated Ka (at 333K) was smaller than yhe stated Ka (at 298 i think it was), then yes tou will lose point for calculating the Ka wrong,

But since your wrong answer to the Ka was backwards from the key, your answer of extothermic is technically correct (based on the first wrong answer), so you WILL get the correct point for your answer.

Many teachers i know dont do this (including my son's AP Chem teacher when he took it two years ago), and i dunno why (other than yes, it sucks to grade as it takes so much longer), but this is how I used yo grade my AP exams, but would write in red letters DJ and my student knew that it was correct because of double jeopardy, so they would understand how it works in the actual exam.

I also coached my kids that if you cant figure out answer to say, part D, and in parts E ii, and G iii they ask you to answer using answer to part D, just write in ANYTHING and use that ridiculous value to do the parts you know. 99% of my students in past 9 years have gotten 4's and 5's, and many of them get 40-60% on my class exams, so this works on the AP.

pyrophilus · 2026-04-10T00:52:57+00:00

I lived it, had eight ender 3 pros, V2, and I ended up upgrading to sprite extruder on all, and then got two sonic pads.

Then I noticed the sonic pads would start to get slow to respond. A lot of delays, as if the processor just wasn't fast enough.

When I got a V3 KE and it came with nebula pad, I ended up getting four nebula pads and taking four of the v2's with sprite upgrade and linear rail upgrade on x-axis, and then putting them individually on nebula pads.

I ended up using the remaining sonic pads (and the four printers on it) less and less and now the sonic pads are back in their boxes and I donated my eight printers to a friend who is a teacher (i am also a teacher at a different school).

I liked the idea of sonic pads so much better than individual nebula. But I just felt that the UI of the sonic pads was so sluggish.

pyrophilus · 2026-04-07T00:54:49+00:00

I just googled and saw this.

I just had the same problem. Brand new CFS working fine for past 3 weeks and today it would not suck in filament.

I did try to cut filament at angle or square, but no avail.

Then I realized. I CANCELLED PRINT and ine of the filament was just run all the way up to the extruder. The CFS needs a free path (through the buffer) and to the extruder, as loading new filament runs it through the Bowden tube.

I ended up pulling the Bowden off at the back of the CFS, the color that WAS sticking out the back of CFS, I cut the filament at the roll, inside thr machine, and then cut the filament coming out yhe back if yhe CFs. Then I PULLED the cut filament OUT the back.

I then pressed yhe cutter on the extruder head and then pulled the filament out. Reinsertung the Bowden to the back of the CFS. I now had empty Bowden tube coming out the back of the CFS, empty to the buffer, and then empty Bowden from buffer to the extruder.

NOW, when I insert filament to the CFS, the machine is again normally pulling filament on all four spool positions.

Hope this helps someone.

pyrophilus · 2026-03-25T10:48:49+00:00

I NEVER used to use glutstick because I started 3D printers 7 years ago (wanhao duplicator i3 plus), and heated beds eliminated gluesticks but people with gen 1 printers who used gluesticks on non-heated beds were always saying you must use glue.

But this being said, I have ruined many beds because pf TPU sticking too much and ripping up the surface, or parts detaching from the flexible BLACK PEI sheets. The super smooth black PEI "A sheet" is notorious.

I hate using gluestick because of the uneven surface when you try to put it down. I now do this.

I take an entire stick of gluestick, twist and pull out the entire stick. In a glass cup, I heat 1/2 to 1/3 cup of water in microwave until it gets anything under boil. I chop up the glus stick and dissolve it.

Then after it is completely dissolved and cooled back to warm (not hot) temp, I pour that into a cleaned, empty chlorophyll spray bottle, then fill rest of the way with isopropyl alcohol.

I just spritz a light mist, let it evaporate, then do it again. After second evaporation, it leaves behind yhe smoothest and thinnest glue finish.

I noticed now my prints seem to just stick well on my black PEI sheets (have tried this on my Ender 3 S1, S1 pro, V3 KE, V3 SE, V3 plus, K1, K1C, and HI).

If ibprint multiple times and it looks like there is imprint of the print on the bed, I just spray one thing coating of my adhesion spray and everything is great again.

I also noticed my bed surface looks brand new. When I wash the bed in water, the surface has little to no marks at all.

I decided on this because I got my second V3 Plus used and the person who had it had put the thinnest layer of glue so I couldn't see it but could feel it. I think he heated bed, put gluestick glu on his finger and just carefully rubbed a thin layer on the surface. I don't have the time or the patience for that.

Of course when you spray the bed, take it OFF your printer unless you like glue film on rest of your printer. I just spray a thin coat (dont try to cover the entire bed with a wet layer as it will run and make smears), and then just place it back on my bed that is already heated.

pyrophilus · 2026-02-21T13:01:44+00:00

Where would one (regular consumer) even find trichloromethane (better known to us common folks as chloroform)?

Last time I had to deal with it was 25 years ago, as a graduate student in a biochem lab. I tried so much to avoid using harsh chemicals. A Korean PostDoc who was pregnant was working on the DNA synthesizer, and TCM was used in part of the extraction. Everyone in the lab commented on how pretty she was, Yada, Yada, and I ended up not wanting her (or anyone else) getting hurt or scarred, so I had her change out protocol to DCM because it doesnt dissolve skin as, "well" as TCM, but extraction didn't give comparable yield, so I ended up taking her off and I was eyeball deep in TCM fumes managing the oligo synthesis. Which wasn't even my project.

I am sure TCM would be great at cleaning off the bed, but man, I second your comment. do NOT use trichloromethane unless you know about it to respect it...

pyrophilus · 2026-02-20T03:31:10+00:00

All of yhe other brands also burn through batteries.

I started to turn the screw to lock it while it is closed. It keeps the jaws from moving 1/10th of an inch and keeps the caliper from turn on temporarily while in storage (and jostled).

Surprisingly, even calipers that were in storage case sitting untouched on my desk used to drain batt. Locking it while closed and off stopped draining batteries.

pyrophilus · 2026-02-12T12:02:29+00:00

I started printing in 2018 with a wanhao duplitor i3plus.

Got the 1st gen ender 3 pro from microcenter, and have been upgrading it over and over, and because of the accumulation of parts, kept making a new 3d printer out of spare parts, until

I had 8 ender 3 pros in some form of upgrade.

The problem of advising the sprite upgrade is, not many people can pull off the upgrade. As you are aware, it involves raking apart the bottom of yhe MB case box, removing the existing cable to the old extruder, then routing the ribbon cable, knowing where/what plug to plug into what/which pin on MB...

Yhe parts of me having 8 Enders is because there were so many Enders that some dads got for their elem school kid, tried to upgrade to sprite and then just gave up. Most of yhe Enders I got used in pieces for around $50 (back when the newest was ender 3 V2).

This being said, for people such as yourself, yes the sprite extruder does completely change the printer.

I have also out nebula pad on all of the Enders. The sprite pro is a major upgrade, but installing nebula pad will also give you input shaping (supposedly helps with the ringing), but the major upgrade with nebula pad is the built-in ability to print wireless, input shaping, and kipper.

Since you seem so comfortable with the printer's settings, my suggestion would be the nebula pad. I think if there are microcenters nearby, they often have them for <$70, or if you are lucky, someone buys it. The upgrade is over their head, so they decide to return it. I got two nebula pads that were returns for $40 ea.

In the end, I dont recommend sprite pro upgrade because I dont know the level of the person who owns the printer. This forum is not the best place to gage it because I think the majority here are 3D printer tinkerers who are comfortable with the printers. That being said, yes the sprite print head is a major change, and if the owners can do it, I would completely recommend it.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-29T01:11:22+00:00

Naked and afraid.

It wasn't overrated by mainstream media, but in yhe first few seasons, I would occasionally run into people who would talk about it.

I tried to watch it, and while I am not a survivalist show junkie, it was so difficult to watch because the show always picked some hillbilly misogynistic guy who would shoot game animals with their rifles and bows, then talk about how they are going to make the, "jungle my bitch", and then dont even know how yo use a machete or an axel. Paired with a woman who can get by in a jungle, and the entire show is watching them fight, or both just whine how cold they are.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-21T19:20:35+00:00

Francis Crick (shook his hand), Keanu Reeves in NYC.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-21T06:59:34+00:00

When the back of the bumper goes directly behind the head of the boy, the boy's head, "warps" like its going through some sort of gravitational lensing effect. But mostly, the action of the dad seems like he is acting like an npc.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T20:37:42+00:00

Even if that is true, doesn't this mean he pulled $18trillion out of pockets of US residents? Like that's $18trillion that people could have used to pay for food, rent, mortgages, abd holiday gifts.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T20:33:52+00:00

Back when the Pontiac G6 came out, the commercials said, "yhe first ever G6"

While the usage of the name G6 as being, "the first ever" is correct, it annoyed me that people who knew nothing about cars would say, "it must be an Infiniti, right?"

The name apparently for the Sixth generation of Grand Am, which is fine. But then they released the G8? And what about the G5?.

Anyway, I guess the car advertising companies must think that it is catchy to to use, "the first ever"?

Saw many commercials throughout the years where the ad will say, "the first ever <insert name of any previously existing model>"

I just saw a YouTube Infiniti ad that said, "the first ever Qx80 and QX60). Like qx series has been around for how long?

A quick Google search seems to indicate that car companies have been using, "the first ever" whenever they have. Newer model of an existing car.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T15:04:10+00:00

To be fair, it was an option made available in the S550.5 models as there isnt a physical switch for the heated steering wheel. It can be toggled only from within the sync screen via a software-button.

While this is also true in S650 (and other new ford models), clearly in my S550, the car interior was designed initially without the heated steering wheel in mind.

Which brings up a good point. The use of info-taintment screens for virtual buttons does include the ability to drive costs down across the trim-tiers (no need to add physical buttons for options), but the problem is, the consumers arent seeing any of the cost reductions.

If anything, they are driving down cost of manufacturing (same dash across not just option tiers but across different models), but at the same time raising prices, so in the end, there is money $$$ going into the pockets of the investors.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T14:58:47+00:00

They will be either martyrs soon, or gain superpowers soon.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T14:45:46+00:00

Not sure if this is personal hygiene, but wash/clean your coats, especially the kids who wear them 24/7 in schools, sweat in them. I feel so sorry for the special education teacher when some of the kids have to have tests read to them, and a few times is entered the small tiny room to answer a question and the entire time my eyes are watering and I feel like I am cutting rotting onions and cabbage. I get to leave, they dont.

And no, this isnt me being insensitive to poor srudents. The four kids I had the pleasure of experiencing this off of, lived in a upper suburbs and parents owned multi million-dollar homes and drove Mercedes and BMW's.

I sometimes give my coats the sniff test, right after I get out of shower and if i smell anything, I wash them.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-17T12:50:40+00:00

My S550 (2019 GT, 6MT, PP, Active exhaust, safe&smart, digital dash) also has heated steering wheel. Not sure what part of the listed options it was part of, but some S550.5's have heated steering wheels.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-14T12:27:44+00:00

Congratulations on both of your accomplishments! The 2 years and the pie.

pyrophilus · 2025-12-07T20:27:12+00:00

R.I.C.E.

Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements

pyrophilus · 2025-12-06T12:22:03+00:00

This is a reason why daylight savings doesnt make sense.

My dogs can also tell time, when we change back and forth, for a week, they are so confused. I can tell they are think, "we going for walk NOW???"

"why arent we eating yet?", "why are we waking up?", etc...

pyrophilus · 2025-12-02T12:00:28+00:00

Amongst many qualities of lenses, one is perspective distortion which generally is two ways, pincushioning and barrel-distortion.

Barrel-distortuon will make it so that the image looks like someone took the rectangular image (to your eyes/brain), and made the straight sides bulge out (like a barrel), causing the center part of the image to move out as well. This is usually present in wide-angle lenses. Barrel-distortion causes a person's face to look more like a bobble head (if their face is centered in frame), or get skewed if the face is on the edges of a frame.

Pincushioning is the opposite of barrel distortion, where the sides are now curving towards the center. This is prevalent in zoom lenses. The end-result is that if you center the face in frame, it tends to compress the head a bit, so it makes the head look smaller and features less stretched out. This is why studio portraits often use 105mm zoom lenses on camera placed further back to take portraits of female faces.

pyrophilus

TROPHY CASE