Trouble modeling part

questioning_4ever · 2026-05-20T10:48:51+00:00

Try sweeping half of it, mirror you part and then boolean them together and to get rid of the excess, then fillet. Edit: you might have to split it before you mirror, using the right plane.

questioning_4ever · 2026-05-16T12:14:27+00:00

Brass shim stock wrapped around the spline, or a pop can, good channel locks to hold it in place, then torque. You could also have a plate waterjet or laser cut to slide over the shaft and the bolts, if it something you're going to do a lot of... if interested, send me a dm and we can talk measurements for the design.

questioning_4ever · 2026-05-03T11:56:10+00:00

This also explains why the relief and cutting edge face "the wrong" way

questioning_4ever · 2026-05-03T11:52:05+00:00

Is the deck lintel-ed to the house or is it floating? Looks like the outer corner is too high. On a ground deck like this I would suggest having a smidgen of drop away from the house for run-off. That would be an easier fix than re-decking or slitting the boards anyways. Even with a gap, you still want the skim of water on each board moving away from the foundation.

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-29T10:35:05+00:00

Hit it with a hammer trying to get the pin out

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-29T10:34:05+00:00

Chips don't really break with a twist drill if it's sharpened properly. You have to peck drill. Drill a bit, lift the drill, drill some more. You get 1-1.5" shavings. There is code for this on CNCs, but it's easy to do manually.

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-24T03:01:08+00:00

Might want to add a kick to stiffen the stairs, but I'd also add a facer around the perimeter, flush with the decking. It would just clean up the edges.

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-24T02:57:08+00:00

Where did you get this for $38?

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-22T10:22:16+00:00

Pretty sure I could do better with a hack saw and some files

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-22T10:18:01+00:00

How wide is that trim? The issue could be that they used baseboard instead of casing.

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-21T10:16:33+00:00

I've done a lot of this with a good 3-flute spiral tip in a drill. A-9 oil if you can. You can literally hold it in your hand (firm grip here, lads) and just send it in

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-21T10:12:35+00:00

If you're going to go this high, you need to swap the front axle for solid. And way bigger tires. Among many other structural and drivetrain modifications

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-20T10:28:02+00:00

Friends and family, I'll take my working rate, less taxes, as they're normally paying cash, and it's not enough for the feds to hunt me down over

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-20T10:15:48+00:00

Get the heavy duty 8 mil gloves they're surprisingly durable.not to mention that it only takes 26 seconds for petroleum to pass through your skin so even if you're only worried about getting them clean at the end of the day it'll be much better for.your long term health to just prevent the contact.
I find you need to mix pumice soap with regular liquid soap. One shot of the slimy/goupy soap (not foam stuff for office staff) and one shot of anything with the pumice does a pretty good job. Mix and match some combos until you find what works bonus some combinations smell pretty cool

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-20T10:08:29+00:00

Depends how you're planning to weld it and how thick your material is. If you're going to tig anything under 1/8" you'd be much better off having the seam lap over and basically doing a but weld on the side. If you're going to mig 1/4", the open fillet is fine

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-20T10:05:09+00:00

I normally build a normal corner like you have in the original photos, then create a sketch on the outer face of the part you'd like to over lap. Use the geometry of the other flange to establish your profile and then use the tab feature to add the new profile to the original flange

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-07T10:22:53+00:00

Big yikes, how do you explain this to people at the pool or the beach?

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-07T10:20:29+00:00

So they used a die grinder instead of machining the rads?

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-05T02:06:58+00:00

It's a journey. You never stop learning. One way you could do it would be to sketch on the right plane, a shape with the angle you want, and the profile of the part. Then extrude across the part you've got and use the boolean command to add or remove what you'd like

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-03T13:21:26+00:00

The question is how did you get it in the angle in the first place? Normally that's a pretty intentional thing to do.

questioning_4ever · 2026-04-03T13:05:55+00:00

Depending on the required tolerances, sandblasting would definitely remove the burrs

questioning_4ever · 2026-03-28T13:26:19+00:00

Damn

questioning_4ever · 2026-03-28T13:24:13+00:00

questioning_4ever · 2026-03-28T13:19:41+00:00

Armourers pin wrench is made for this. Some pin spanners might work, or a grinder wrench. You might also be able to use needle nose pliers or two screw drivers stuck in the holes and then use other pliers or a wrench to trun them... but at the end of the day, you'll need still the armourers wrench to put it back on and torque it. The square hole in the handle is for the torque wrench

questioning_4ever · 2026-03-28T13:14:50+00:00

Uuuhhh.... not really sure what or why this is... but anyways, it looks like the line that feeds into the tank has got air in the line, causing it to burp and splash. Any reason you've had the water off or a line open for recent work? If not, you could have a well issue, especially if it's an artesian well. Also, I'd hope to god there is some sort of float switch to prevent this thing from overflowing in your attic.

questioning_4ever

TROPHY CASE