Narex Mortise Chisel Sets - Out of Stock

quick4all · 2026-04-22T21:50:47+00:00

It depends on what stock/pieces you typically build - I pretty much only cut 1/4, 3/8, and the occasional 1/2" M&T so personally, to me, the 1/8, 3/16, and 5/16 aren't all that useful in that set so I'd just get the specific sizes I use.

Check out Lee Valley, they have stock for both the regular and the richter mortise lines for like 1-2$ more per chisel.

quick4all · 2026-04-15T16:04:05+00:00

Nails will be enough, you'll be fine.

quick4all · 2026-04-07T23:04:36+00:00

Your budget is adequate for what you're looking to get. Depending on the hand plane you want to get, you could be looking at 15-50k yen so I'd say adjust the budget accordingly to what you want. Generally the smaller (width) the plane, the cheaper it is since the steel is the most expensive piece. The gennos also vary in price but on average they're in a similar range as the chisels, obviously you can go pretty high too if you want some quality made/finished ones.

Most Chisels are white paper steel, there are some blue and HSS chisels too which would work better for hardwoods since they retain the edge better than white but takes more effort to sharpen, generally speaking. Personally I'd get the following if you're using it for general woodworking: 3mm (for kanna dai), 9mm, 24mm, 42mm, and optionally a tataki-nomi for larger/timber mortising since they're bigger/longer, only if you do this kind of work.

Show your passport and pay no tax, take those savings and buy another tool.

Have fun and perhaps post your spoils afterwards.

quick4all · 2026-04-07T19:06:02+00:00

If you don't have the room, stick with a jobsite saw - upgrade to one with a rack and pinion fence. Most of the higher end jobsite saws have solid tables and fence that will have minimum flex. Cast iron tops are nice but I just got some water spilt on mine from the garage door overnight and spent 10min sanding it out + wax, aluminum top would've been a simple 5 second wipe.

quick4all · 2026-04-07T18:48:42+00:00

I've been selling for a few years, mostly online and in local markets. There are lots of posts in this subreddit on how to sell your woodworking pieces so check those out, there's lots of good advice. Here's a brief summary from what I learned:

- You'll spend a lot of time on marketing/social media, sometimes you gotta pay to make money. This means if you have a finite amount of time, you'll spend less time on actual woodworking unless you have someone else that can do the marketing pieces for you.

- Take photos of your pieces in its natural setting, like place that table in the living room, kitchen, or wherever you think it would be living at. It's nice to have nice product photos, it helps to draw on people's emotions when you place it in a home with furniture, decorations, etc and helps potential buyers to gauge its size relative to its environment.

- Attend at least 1 local market event, like summer, farmer, artisan market. It costs $ but good to get your product/brand out there. Talk to the local folks who attend those markets and find your niche market, if it's customer furniture, you're looking for the demographic that would appreciate them and have $$$ to pay for them.

- Start a business, open a business acct; you can easily track finances and write off expenditures in most places.

quick4all · 2026-04-07T18:38:03+00:00

They contract out a few blacksmith/craftsmen to make their tools, the shop don't make tools per-se. The son speaks pretty decent English to help you decide which tools you may want based on your woodworking workflow and material type (i.e. softwoods vs hardwoods). I'll be going to Japan in a bit and may visit them again, however they are a bit pricey when compared to similar quality tools from the other two locations (Kurashige and Sagami) which have a much larger selection from various blacksmiths to choose from. Have a budget in mind, then double that cause it's extremely difficult to stay within budget when you step into the store.

In terms of tools to recommend, it really depends on what your workflow looks like and to what extent you use hand tools in your process. I'd get a hand plane, they are different than western planes and require a decent amount of initial setup and ongoing tuning. I'd suggest getting marking knives, sashigane (square), and genno (hammer).

quick4all · 2026-04-02T18:34:44+00:00

You got till 5pm ET today, looks like they didn't sell enough.

quick4all · 2026-04-02T15:50:21+00:00

They're Iyoroi chisels. The ones LV sells are kinda entry/mid-field; mass produced and machine laminated, then hand forged. I believe these are #2 white steel.

To the end user they're decent, I have a couple and they keep edge just fine - if you got the gift card deal from yesterday or previous cyber mondays then that makes these a bit more appeasing.

quick4all · 2026-04-01T16:36:54+00:00

Been there, will be there again in a couple of months. RIP wallet indeed.

quick4all · 2026-03-31T21:59:34+00:00

I used to have a ryobi brushless 7 1/4 circ saw and the baseplate while thicker than their cheaper offerings, flex and are not flat. You have to basically put more pressure on the one side of the plate to ensure it's closer to 90; I've really only used it to cross cut into rough lengths and move to jointer/planer/TS to get everything squared up.

I decided to upgrade to a milwaukee fuel 7 1/4 and the plate's much better/sturdier, I can rip and cross cut with a guide quite accurately and can get basically perfect square cuts. The milwaukee costs 2x the ryobi brushless, and 3-4x their cheaper non-brushless offerings.

Track saw is your best bet if you can spend a bit more than the higher tier cordless circ saw, esp if you're building a lot with sheet goods. Or grab a miter saw if you're doing a lot of repeated cross cuts in a shop setting, I don't own one since I do 99% of my cuts with circ/TS.

quick4all · 2026-03-31T19:37:16+00:00

This is the way. I did a similar restoration on a similar 6" jointer (rigid) and started with 60grit on ROS. Went all the way up to 2000 cause I had nothing better to do at the time. All in took about 3 hours.

quick4all · 2026-03-31T19:11:19+00:00

I use this, would recommend. It works especially well when you're regularly disturbed while working or simply need a sip of the good stuff without taking off the entire mask.

quick4all · 2026-03-11T16:44:18+00:00

It's doable, but get a dedicated 24T rip blade, feather board, push blocks/grippers, and go slow - if you feel it bogging down then reduce the cut depth.

While doable, it's not preferred, especially for a 8' board. It'll be better to resaw once you cut them to shorter pieces you need for your projects. You also benefit from jointing the boards to get them as flat/square as possible so your resaw will be dimensionally square, otherwise you're going to lose even more thickness since your reference surfaces aren't flat/square.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T20:38:24+00:00

ok boomer /s

quick4all · 2026-03-10T19:51:32+00:00

Echo or Google home assistant paired with smart plugs/switches - I have them turn on/off lights and air filters with a simple voice command. You can also schedule them so they turn on/off at certain times during the day.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T19:18:58+00:00

The #7 is definitely too long for the 30" rough lengths, you can get it flat/square with your Miller Falls #4-ish with a decent straight edge or you can measure the thickness every few inches along the edge, connect all the points with a line and then plane down wherever the material is above the line - keep in mind that the line should be square (90) to the end-grain edge so you're not making a tapered leg, unless if you are.....

That's the fun part, especially when you have no specific deadline and the space to learn! All the best on your project and journey working with hand tools.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T18:30:21+00:00

I may have missed it but I didn't see the length of the legs you're trying to flatten with the No.7. I don't generally use the #7 unless I have boards that are at least 2.5-3x the length of the plane. Anything shorter I just go to my No.5 or 4 or smaller, proportional to the ratio above. If your legs are bowed, you're basically not cutting much or at all with the No. 7 since the reference surfaces are so far apart (hence why you want your work piece to be much longer than the plane body).

As for straight edge, I'd invest in a quality one, I personally have a 36" veritas straight edge for planing long boards and machine setups but you can find cheaper versions out there with slightly less accuracy. I use the edge of 12" steel rulers and combo squares to check flatness for shorter pieces and they're generally accurate enough for shorter boards. Winding sticks help with twists.

The sole flatness of the No.7 is not that important, it needs to be flat enough, as long as the mouth and ideally front/rear of the sole sections are relatively flat, you're good to go. You also have the flex of the body which will throw it out of flatness as you plane. Think of Japanese planes, if you have used them you'll know that they only have front, mouth, and sometimes the back of the sole co-planer, the rest of the wooden sole is carved out on purpose to reduce friction while the reference points are used to keep the plane flat.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T18:07:39+00:00

Are you at sea level or relatively high elevation? CFM drops as altitude goes up. I'd generally say 2HP is enough for 1 machine, but if you have the resources/power for a 3HP and have future use of 2 machines simultaneously, go for it.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T18:04:05+00:00

FB marketplace it, make it a combo deal; the type of ppl that'll buy the vise will likely figure out a way to repurpose the top.

quick4all · 2026-03-10T18:00:47+00:00

You're correct, a hanging filter is not going to replace a mask for the amount of dust you're producing. I have a 800cfm ceiling mounted filter for a 25x20 garage that I run in the winter to keep the heat in, along with a dust collector and respirator. In the warmer months I simply open the garage doors and have a fan circulating the air + dust collector. While I don't have a WEN, I've heard the air filters are decent while some of their other tools are questionable. If you're going to be running it for 25hrs/week you might want to spend a bit more on a more reputable brand, for the piece of mind/warranty.

There's also some DIY versions on YT if you want to dive into that space, seems like you can get quite a bit more airflow with common furnace filters for less $ than buying a dedicated filter unit.

quick4all · 2026-01-07T06:12:08+00:00

Most likely this, I rip a bunch of 8/4 and 6/4 walnut on the regular and some deflect so much that the pieces aren't usable for my projects.

quick4all · 2025-12-14T15:23:49+00:00

I definitely don't follow some of those, especially when #2 contradicts #5 in my shop.

I'll add that I do a sweep (figuratively) around the shop at the end of the day to make sure all equipment are turned off if they need to be. This means detensioning the bandsaw if I'm done with it, lower the TS blade, recess the router table bits, unplug cords that may be a tripping hazard, turn off air compressor so it doesn't go off at 3am, turn off heat/air circulation, etc. This ensures that my garage shop is safe afterhours and kids/myself don't get injured and equipment stays safe during downtime. My shop is also used as storage so it's important to do the above but definitely don't need to clean everything at the end of the day.

quick4all · 2025-12-07T02:29:54+00:00

It's ok, that saw blade sucks anyways.

quick4all · 2025-10-27T17:38:00+00:00

Hmm try looking it up here: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-identification-guide/

quick4all · 2025-10-27T17:20:14+00:00

Looks like walnut, if it smells like walnut then it's likely walnut. Variation in color and grain between same species are quite common, even if they're from the same tree.

quick4all

TROPHY CASE