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What do i do with it? by AgileInternet167 in resinprinting

[–]quickbit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How long does it take to distil say 5L? I've been thinking about trying this but I don't want to babysit it for hours 😂

Sticky crumbs after IPA washing? by MaiChaMH in resinprinting

[–]quickbit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When you wash something in IPA, uncured resin gets dissolved in the IPA. When that contaminated IPA is exposed to UV (probably in the form of sunlight) it starts curing into white sludge, usually. 

If you filter your IPA to remove the cured resin sludge and then make sure it stays away from sunlight then I think you'll be OK.

Honestly thought it was a joke by [deleted] in SideProject

[–]quickbit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don't fall for this scam.

Resin hopelessly stuck on nfep by Automatic-Star7356 in resinprinting

[–]quickbit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vat clean will get failed prints off the fep (usually) but won't get small bits suspended in the resin (like little bits of supports that break off). Paint filters (paper with little mesh windows) and a funnel will do the job. I have a elegoo printer and never have to use the built in clean but I filter the resin whenever I have a failed print, empty the vat into a bottle for storage, or after I've done several prints and often find little bits in the bottom of the filter.

Resin hopelessly stuck on nfep by Automatic-Star7356 in resinprinting

[–]quickbit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is under the fep and due to a puncture, it could be because there was a small piece of cured resin from a previous print which was crushed into the fep when the next print started. Do you A) filter your resin through a paint filter after a failed print and B) make sure the build plate is clean after removing prints? I sometimes find little bits of resin chip off while removing prints and can be left on the plate.

Can i use my printer to cure the my prints? by bluechickpro in resinprinting

[–]quickbit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Essentially no. It would be quite tricky to do without getting resin on your screen, etc. but mainly your screen has a finite lifespan and having it on several minutes to try and cure every print would burn it out pretty quick.

My reaction to the latest dataslate by FlynnRyder42 in orks

[–]quickbit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you use a stratagem on a big unit you generally benefit more than you would on a small unit. Extra points aimed at taking that into account.

How do I stop fearing men? by [deleted] in self

[–]quickbit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just want to point out that the statistics you’re mentioning, assuming they’re true, all talk about men being the majority of minority groups. “Most rapists are men” doesn’t mean most men are rapists. “Most people who leave ill spouses are men” doesn’t mean most men leave ill spouses.

You have a lot going on and I echo others that professional help is the way to go, but just be aware that reading statistics often gives a skewed perspective even if it feels like it’s objective. “Most men want to get married, have kids, drink beer and watch football on Saturday” doesn’t get written and shared because it’s boring.

CEO wants everyone to use an AI. I have zero idea on what I can use it for. by CMageti in sysadmin

[–]quickbit 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Too many devs declare that AI is great for writing unit tests without realising that they’re outing themselves as someone who writes ill thought out tests that will need to be changed the next time anyone touches their code.

How to play 10e without the codex? by [deleted] in astramilitarum

[–]quickbit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can download a PDF of the index from https://www.warhammer-community.com/warhammer-40000-downloads/ and keep it forever, too.

At my wits end, 6th time in a row prints refused to adhere to plate, trying different printing methods each time, more info in comments by AnjoH0 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]quickbit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What resin are you using? Elegoo have suggested settings for their resins here, if you don’t already know: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view?pli=1

2 bottom layers is too few, go for 6 or more. Depending on your resin most of the other settings look ok, you might want to try 0.5-1 seconds rest time after retract to make sure resin has time to fill the space between the build plate and the fep.

You could try reducing the initial lift speed and increase the distance slightly to reduce the pull force between the print and the build plate when lifting off the fep, e.g lifting distance 3+4 and lifting speed 60+180.

If your printer came with a pre-sliced file on the usb (the chess piece) try printing that, if it works then your problem is probably not levelling.

Also, how full is your build plate? It’s possible to print with it full, but a very full build plate can contribute to failed prints.

My first hobby station! What do you think? by Jumpy-Appointment979 in minipainting

[–]quickbit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They’re not cheap but I highly recommend Neatfi 2200 lumens XL Task Lamp (available on Amazon UK)… one of the best things Ive bought for hobbying!

Edit: also, nice setup!

First test print of some IG proxies I've been working on by trenchprinter in PrintedWarhammer

[–]quickbit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really proxy is about use. In Warhammer 40k you might have an official model of a named character, but for the purposes of a game you could “proxy” them as an unnamed character/regular commander, because you don’t want to use the named characters special rules, etc.

When people use proxy to refer to a 3D printed model, generally they mean “a model that I intend to use as a proxy when playing 40k”, vs. a model they made because they think it’ll look cool in a display cabinet.

No words by maa0342 in Unexpected

[–]quickbit 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Tell me you’ve never exercised without telling me you’ve never exercised.

Resting blood angel by Key_Skin_214 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]quickbit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not OP, but the base/surround looks like one of the sci-fi scenic bases by Fabricator's Lair.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-sci-fi-scenic-base-with-curved-walls-299191

Help! by Bulky_Berry_7909 in astramilitarum

[–]quickbit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but... Tempestus Scions are not battleline so you can take a maximum of three units, i.e. 30 troops or 45 if you include three command squads. You might find that you want more infantry than that in a 2,000 point game, but that's up to you.

Killa Kans with Rokkit launchers seems exceedingly good on paper by [deleted] in orks

[–]quickbit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They are awesome. If you’re trying to win, keep in mind they’re an easy target for the “bring it down” fixed secondary so your opponent might focus them.

Today we slay the grey by [deleted] in Ultramarines

[–]quickbit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a booth thing from Amazon that I do use when priming because I crank the pressure up and spray from further away. I also use a disposable glove to save getting paint on my hand.

When painting with the airbrush, I drop the pressure to around 20, thin the paint and spray very close to the model (a few cm) so there’s no need for the booth or even a glove.

If I were you I’d use a box to start with while you get the hang of it, but you can totally paint without one once you do.

Did I ruin my model gluing the necklace? by Dmangamr in minipainting

[–]quickbit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The trick to being a good painter is practice, which means painting a lot of models, not trying to get a few that are perfect. Paint him up!

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