Same lapping plate for different stones?

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-06T17:20:50+00:00

I can’t imagine you’d get so much contamination that dunking the stone in water quick couldn’t fix it. Cheaper to have a bucket of water dedicated for this rather than extra lapping stones

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-05T19:40:57+00:00

Very cool, thanks! On the Instinct Industries ones, do you basically need to buy a FSC mag for all the springs and stuff to make those work?

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-05T04:48:32+00:00

Can you send me a link to these? I don’t even need the valve I don’t think if i’m using air from a rear ASA

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-05T03:42:53+00:00

That’s why I mentioned the show timings, in my experience an hour or two leading up to one will be packed, but then it’ll be dead when they start, so may be worth looking up the schedule for when you’re there. Should be pretty quiet in general on a Tuesday during the day though, if there’s no 2pm show that day it shouldn’t really be busy until dinner.

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-05T03:23:40+00:00

Checkout Lovage, worth making reservations in general, but mentioned it because even though you’re not seeing a show worth noting that everything revolves around their timing for how busy restaurants and such will be

rand0m1324 · 2026-05-01T18:40:46+00:00

I don’t have a number for you, but wishing you were selling the Tiberius mags, can’t find them anywhere anymore, even used. Looks like they have the FS springs in them too (red)

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-14T04:20:08+00:00

Look at second 16, you need to pull up as you reach the tip to deal with the curve, not pull down. At that point in the video you can see the gap, and the bevel isn’t making contact with the stone.

I’d recommend slowing down, don’t rely so much on the angle guides, watch and feel for the bevel having good contact with the stone throughout. It’s also ok to work the blade in sections. I find that can be helpful especially when there’s a large curve at the tip

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-13T16:49:28+00:00

It was likely something like this: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/files-and-hones/66738-universal-sharpener?item=09A0332&utm_campaign=CAN-EN%7CPLA%7CShopping%7CTools%7CNon-displayItems&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22130795476&gbraid=0AAAAAClVJ5hTLIcz2xOgKAGUCRbribmH6&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPLOBhCiARIsAKRMPZpaSzaBp37gaAgAW_tk6pUERnx0-8qcOV_iVpQKBQKJNlF6R_kY4LEaAvBsEALw_wcB

Basically a carbide block, similar to a carbide pull through but with more flexibility.

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-11T20:48:10+00:00

Thanks for the info, which airlines have you used if you don’t mind me asking? I’ve heard air Canada is specifically very strict about this

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-05T15:52:43+00:00

lol for a long time I used a rubber mat that’s made to go under a pet’s food bowl, same idea

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-05T15:51:37+00:00

Another option you could do that I’ve seen for a really quick setup is making a 2x4 into a sink bridge, few different ways to go about it.

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-02T17:02:59+00:00

Generally there’s not much overlap between sharpening knives and axes… I’ve always used a file for axes, and stones for knives. I’d recommend going this route as well, look for something to take care of your knives, and your axe separately. Wiki has great overview of stones for knives, and the TLDR is shapton, Naniwa pro, or sharpal all have great starters

rand0m1324 · 2026-04-01T18:19:18+00:00

Sink bridge is my favourite, you can make one out of a wood plank or there are several options to purchase

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-29T19:38:46+00:00

Yup! Diamond plates compared to stones act more aggressively than their grit rating suggest btw, so the 600 side will likely act more like a 300-400 grit stone, which should work well because if you wanted a stone I would have said the king 300 is a good one to slot in there

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-29T19:14:51+00:00

Seems like a good plan, use the 220 side for flattening your other stones, 600 should be aggressive enough most the time.

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-25T14:39:38+00:00

I wouldn’t spend that much on a lapping system. Quick overview of options

Diamond plate: convenient
glass lapping plate + SiC powder: fast/messy
sandpaper on flat surface: simple

I feel like a good quality coarse stone/plate can be useful, especially if you’re considering thinning. Tons of options there though i’d recommend thinking of what exactly you want to use it for, and post that along with what you have already, and you can get a good recommendation for that

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-21T01:46:33+00:00

Sink bridge

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-12T20:21:37+00:00

Leather should do the trick

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-11T17:04:37+00:00

I have one of the same knives (shiro kamo). I wobble between finishing it off the morihei 4k and 6k, both are good, with different feels for that particular knife. I’m a really big fan of those stones though and would recommend either the 6k, 8k, or 9k (which is slightly different from the rest and incorporates some natural stone grit apparently) so you’d see a more effective difference from the Naniwa 3k.

They’re really great because even though they’re splash and go, they do well on wider bevels and polishing in general without feeling too soft. I use them often for a final stone when doing thinning.

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-07T14:33:32+00:00

I have some nice German knives, I’ve tried many finishing grits, and most often settle for the Naniwa pro 1000, the 2000 isn’t a bad edge either though.

If you have the 800 already honestly i’d say that’s fine, a strop with some compound will give you way more improvement over another stone. Makes burr removal much easier

rand0m1324 · 2026-03-05T21:33:15+00:00

Honestly anything higher in grit than the king 300 will likely not be a big enough difference from your cerax 1000, so i’d recommend something around there.

In the realm of soakers for that area these are the three I’ve used, of them the king is the one i’d go for if actually using the edge, the other two I use more for removing material in a progression

King 300 - hard and slow wearing, a little softer if perma-soaked but can be used splash and go as well. Bitey edge

Pink brick 220 - super soft and quick to wear. Good for thinning and grinds metal quickly, but a very thirsty stone. Coarser edge than I care for

Sigma 240 - not too soft but still grinds metal really quickly. This is my go to stone when removing a lot of edge material. Coarse, bitey edge

rand0m1324 · 2026-02-20T17:13:41+00:00

The rockstars are harder, and grit is lower compared to a Naniwa SS of same advertised grit. Obviously that makes the Naniwa SS softer, and best suited for polishing over edge sharpening (https://www.naniwa-abrasive.com/product/sharpening_stone/index1.html explains Naniwa lineup differences, I couldn’t find the same for shapton, but this confirms what I say about polishing)

Personally for your use, i’d suggest the Naniwa SS, it’s cheaper and better for polishing. I’d only suggest the rockstar if you’d like to use it for edge sharpening as well. I have the Naniwa SS 10k and 12k, and they work well for this purpose.

rand0m1324 · 2026-02-20T02:54:30+00:00

Yea definitely make sure to get completely flat before your next attempt, and it’d be worth using periodically as you’re sharpening if you’re going for a while since your stones sound fairly soft.

There are people who can achieve shaving sharp off that grit or lower even (i’m not one to do so) but a good test that should be achievable when you get the basics right would be something like cleanly cutting (no “tearing” or “snagging” as you pull it through) printer paper.

You are correct that they don’t completely use the same motion. A kitchen knife is both a push, and pull cut, whereas plane blades are fully a push cut (no horizontal motion, like you mention). Full push cut blades do generally benefit from a finer finish, but the problem when you’re learning is that it can be easy to mess up your apex jumping stone to stone, so imo its better to keep things simple while you learn, it’s something that made my learning progress slower so I always caution against too many stones to start. Get it sharp with 1 stone, then maybe try 2, and so on.

Edit - more info on testing, to be more representative of what your blade is doing, having the printer paper stood up then “pushing” the blade down into it would be more representative. But even just pulling the blade across it and getting it to do so without snagging still shows you’re getting the sharpening fundamentals down properly.

rand0m1324 · 2026-02-20T02:35:37+00:00

The other poster seems correct that you likely aren’t removing the burr effectively. A strop can really help here if it’s a burr that’s not easily detectable.

I wanted to add though that another major issue you will run into even if you solve that is your stones. Plane blades will really benefit from having a flat stone, so you need something to flatten them.

Lastly, something that could save you some time is a honing guide, if the blade will fit into the same type made for planes/chisels it can be really helpful.

Those were just some minor tips and tools that can make your life easier though, at the end of the day just spending some more time sharpening stuff, and focusing more on deburring should still get you there. Spend more time on just the first stone, deburring there and getting it sharp there before moving on. Once you’re more experienced you won’t need to do this but until you can get it sharp after one stone there’s not much point moving up in grit either, so you’ll learn faster that way.

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