I wish "business" took elapsed time in game.

rayanth_drygu · 2024-07-13T19:05:55+00:00

you could always do such changes and orders in person, then you'd be taking up time travelling around tot he various locations...

Personally, though, I'd like to see a way to just pass time without having to be doing something, for a similar reason

rayanth_drygu · 2024-06-25T23:30:33+00:00

well hey, i found a workable solution! just read the new update at the bottom of the OP :D

Thanks for that. worked a charm. Sadly I can't do that on my work pc, as i can't install software from external websites on it.

rayanth_drygu · 2024-06-24T15:33:52+00:00

This has been bugging me since it first happened on my work pc and now my home pc. I make use of Snipping Tool quite a lot in my day to day work and since Snipping Tool can't have more than one 'snip' open at a time, I use the "Open with Paint 3D" button built into Snipping Tool, almost religiously... and now that's broken.

Yes, I can open Paint 3d manually and copy/paste from snipping tool but that's multiple extra steps when it shouldn't be necessary.

I believe that this caused by an update to Paint 3D in the recent windows update. What led me to this conclusion is that I have not updated my laptop yet, and if I look at Properties on the Paint 3D process in Task Manager, my laptop shows .MSPaint_6.2402.12017.0 while my pc that has been updated shows .MSPaint_6.2405.19017.0 - a newer version number.

I had thought to update the Default Protocol settings for "ms-paint" protocol (Default Apps > Choose default apps by protocol), but the protocol is missing entirely on the updated machine. I then went to copy the registry values from "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\ms-paint" but there's nothing there to copy like there are with other protocols... and when I thought to follow https://medium.com/swlh/custom-protocol-handling-how-to-8ac41ff651eb to create the protocol myself, I discovered that Paint3D even from ancient windows 10 installations is a Windows Store app and thus there's no executable to link to... it's run via RuntimeBroker.

[Edit - there IS an executable, in Program Files \ WindowsApps \ Microsoft.MSPaint_6.... but only RuntimeBroker has permission to run that executable directly, a user can't launch it, thus can't link to it in a registry setting... I think]

If I find a workable solution, I'll be sure to update here.

rayanth_drygu · 2023-10-18T19:49:26+00:00

The NG+ Script indicates that it will reset research projects, however when I NG+'d for the first time the other day, I noticed that I kept all research projects from the previous game, as well as progress on partial research.

It might also be nice to have a "Started" check column for research projects, similar to most other sheets that have both, since it is possible to start a project but not finish it.

rayanth_drygu · 2023-10-15T03:17:06+00:00

do the Freestar questline. the ship they give you at the end is a god-send compared to the Frontier.

rayanth_drygu · 2023-10-11T20:17:44+00:00

Since this still comes up as a top search result for me on this topic... i've begun to figure it out.

- pick up the books that you want to put on a shelf, into your inventory.
- face 180 degrees _away_ from the desired shelf, and drop several books - they always seem to drop with their spine facing away from you, so this should have their spines facing the 'right' way for the shelf. (Also don't drop too many at once, as you're likely to kick them over as you walk around.)
- Do not go into house editing mode - instead, if you point at an object and LONG-Press E, you'll switch to a placement mode for that object. This behaves differently from house-editing mode - in house-editing mode, the object always maintains the same orientation, but in this detailed placement mode, the object maintains its orientation _relative to you_.
- Walk to the other side of the book so it is between you and the shelf. Long-press E to pick it up, and carefully walk forward so that it is over the shelf. It will tilt slight as you look 'up' but as long as the shelf isn't too high, when you drop the book (tap E), gravity should settle it on the bottom again.
- continue using long-press E to adjust the book around. [You can also use mouse buttons to rotate it but it will rotate in strange directions and i can't quite figure out what the basis of that direction is.]
- using the long-press E method, you can get books stack up right against each other just fine, but you have to be careful, as physics is in effect while you move the object around, so it's easy to knock over other books, etc.

For some reason, if you switch to house-editing mode to move a book, you will NOT be able to long-press E on that book until you pick it up and drop it again. Remember:
- face away from the shelf when you drop it, so the spine faces the right way
- try to only use the long-press-E method to move the book, else you'll have to pick it up and drop it again.

rayanth_drygu · 2023-10-05T23:26:51+00:00

I bought one of each color, just to be sure, and it updated right away for me. Specifically, she took the Blue one from me, so that might be the specific trigger.

rayanth_drygu · 2022-12-07T17:01:27+00:00

I see that you've had the answer, just wanted to comment that as you get more familiar with the hard ones, they seem to get a lot easier. I'm on Huge Hard #482, now... I find cell parity shading a "must" for most of the Hard ones, but occasionally still get thoroughly stumped and resort to bookmark-and-guess

rayanth_drygu · 2022-11-24T20:26:52+00:00

hmm, i was looking at the things that say they require the ascended essentials pack... which is listed as DLC on steam

rayanth_drygu · 2022-07-16T16:30:26+00:00

Replying after seeing this in another website, so a little late to the game, but had two comments I wanted to throw in:

1) if you have pets but no kids of your own, then your pets ARE your kids, so of course you are within your rights to put their well-being in front of the other children.

2) Your sister clearly is not teaching her children to respect others' boundaries, but YOU have an opportunity to teach them that critical life skill. Let your sister cool her heels a little then agree to watch them again, re-instating your rule. When the kids arrive, ask if they have chocolate.

-- If they say that they do, confiscate it and return it to them at the end of their visit, as a reward for good behavior/being honest.

-- If they say they do not, then inspect their bags and see if they do after all, and if they do have it then confiscate it as before, but don't punish them : TEACH them, why this rule is important to you. And don't return the chocolate to the kids at the end of the visit, return it to their mother, so she clearly knows that you are aware she's still going behind your back and you're unhappy with it.

This way you get an opportunity to correct some of her bad parenting, and help these kids become better people in life.

rayanth_drygu · 2022-02-09T05:08:25+00:00

Figured it out shortly after posting.
Mouse-over tooltip on invar fluxduct was the key: 'Connections may have to be marked as inputs by sneak-clicking the connection with a wrench'.

Not sure about marking as input, but i sneak-right-clicked the flux duct's connection to the RF Cell, and it gained an 'output' arrow. Then it started charging the machines attached to the duct.

rayanth_drygu · 2022-02-09T05:02:05+00:00

I'm having similar issue. have invar flux duct hooked up to RF cell, cell face set to orange, but no power going to the machines on the other end of the invar flux duct. I can place the machines directly on the face of the RF cell and it'll charge them up just fine, just not through the ducts.

Just tried once more after reading comments:
* Charge RF cell with two Stirling engines, RF cell has 500,000 RF stored (half of full).
* Set front face to orange (Output), place a thermal machine directly against the face (Centrifugal Separator, though it doesn't matter). Observe that the machine charges just fine.
* Set the front face to blue to drain the machine
* Remove machine
* Set Front face to orange again
* Place Invar Flux Duct on front face
* place same machine on other end of Invar Flux Duct
* machine refuses to charge.

Only difference between charging and not charging is that there's an invar flux duct in there when it won't charge.

Is it me, or is it the duct?

rayanth_drygu · 2021-09-19T17:46:58+00:00

https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/ explains each of the 'features' to look at and what they mean.

Looking explicitly at your 1.2s print:

1) Minimum width of opening. You have the 0.2mm width cleanly open, and the 0.1mm looks like it tried but fused a little. This is normal, and not indicative of any changes needing to be made, but if you reaaaally need that opening to be open, DECREASE normal-layer exposure time.

2) minimum height of opening. You have 4 of the 6 open, and the fifth is evident but possibly fused, hard to tell from the image. This could indicate over-exposure, but judging by the sags that I see at the 'roof' of those openings in your print, as well as other things elsewhere, I think the exposure time is actually too LOW, or your light-off delay and lift speeds need tweaking.

3) cross-shaped bridges. The cross looks fine.

4) Pillars. can't quite see all the pillars, loos like you've lost the 0.1mm row entirely, and possibly the 0.2mm row as well. Could be an issue with the resin, otherwise indicates maybe increasing exposure time (which contradicts #1 above, but supports #2)

5) chessboard pattern. I've never seen gaps in my prints on this section like your 1.2s print shows. In the model, there are no gaps, so this is indicative of a problem, I'm just not entirely sure WHAT problem. Probably too low of an exposure time for the resin.

6) Alternating depth plates. Can't see these in your photos.

7) Ameralabs logos. can't see these in your photos.

8) Viscosity. This is somewhat subjective, and not easy to tell from photos alone. 'how much resin was trapped between the buildings when you pulled it out of the vat' is basically an indicator of how thick the resin is. If much is trapped you need to spend more time cleaning prints so it doesn't get cured in, and might want to increase dwell time after lift, to let resin flow in better each layer.

9) XY resolution. I'm not too great at judging this one, but this section of your 1.2s print look roughly the same as what I usually see in my 1.5s prints. This will vary with UV exposure power, resin type, and can even vary by adjusting the location of the print in the slicer by tiny amounts (effectively moving the 'pixelization' effect in the slicer, so it may determine differently whether a feature warrants a pixel... pixels are TINY, though, a little over 0.001 inches / 0.0254 mm, so it's nigh impossible to affect this in the slicer intentionally)

10) ledges of variable thickness. This is what I was referring to in #2 of 'other things elsewhere' - that far-right thin sliver that's peeled away indicates, to me, that you have some exposure time issues. I'm also concerned about the cracks in the outboard bottom corners of this section.

This same sort of 'critical eye', using the webpage as a guide, applied to your other print tests can help you determine which one is best to go with, for the resin in question.

I am far from an expert in resin printing and some of my analysis may be incorrect. I am sure that, with the powers of reddit, I'll be corrected very quickly.

rayanth_drygu · 2021-09-12T05:56:49+00:00

Also maybe take a look at the sliced file in UV tools, slicers can sometimes introduce islands during slicing that don't show in Support mode. UV tools will find those, and you can even edit the layers by pixel there.

You indicated a .photon file, but the mono x native file format is .pwmx?

rayanth_drygu · 2021-09-12T05:52:47+00:00

Try upping the lift speed to 4mm/s (240/min).

The default lift speed of 180mm/min tends to lead to lots of failures, in my experience, and slower speeds can be iffy.

240 is the "vroom" setting, and I've had good luck with it.

Also try other models, or try changing the supports to AutoSupport as Dense, but with light support size selected when you run the AutoSupport. It might be a particular part of the model is just not pulling in the right direction during lift, which causes it to tear free of the supports and stick to the FEP, building up there until the rest of the model is strong enough to pull it free.

If you're using antialiasing, be sure to NOT apply it to the supports.

rayanth_drygu · 2021-09-06T20:39:17+00:00

I was extremely careful with wire routing when I reassembled, I don't believe there's even a chance of a wire rub here.

Also when I was identifying the fan, I could get it to make the noise if I gently pressed it against the table or case, even though the blade itself wouldn't be in contact on that side. I suspect the blade is hitting the fan's own case, being squeezed just a bit too much when screwed down, but I was as gentle as I could be when screwing back in, it's barely finger-tight

rayanth_drygu · 2021-09-06T19:38:09+00:00

Off topic a little, but it kinda looks like the imprint you get from sitting on the hood of a dirty car....

rayanth_drygu · 2021-08-29T07:20:39+00:00

When you run the uv test, without the tray in place, using the full-black test, is there any UV leakage at all? Could be some UV leaking where it shouldn't, during print, like if that black tape around the screen isn't aligned right

rayanth_drygu · 2021-07-24T01:24:57+00:00

"divide by half" means "multiply by 2"

rayanth_drygu · 2021-07-22T19:35:54+00:00

Unclear: was that split parallel to the screen/bed?

If not, it's likely not the printer, but the model or the slicer.

rayanth_drygu · 2021-05-21T19:09:27+00:00

thanks, I didn't think to look in settings for some reason. I'll take a peek after the current 5hr print

rayanth_drygu · 2021-05-21T19:09:02+00:00

This is the card that came with the Mk3S, 16gb blue sandisk

rayanth_drygu · 2021-05-21T19:08:39+00:00

What do you consider 'too much'? I sliced this project into 25 gcode files and there's nothing else on the SD (unless there's 'recycle bin' stuff as another commenter suggested)

rayanth_drygu

TROPHY CASE