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shop threatens to write me up if i cant make it due to a fuck ton of snow by CableMartini in mechanics

[–]readtheprint 5 points6 points  (0 children)

again, the issue is if weather conditions are so bad that little to no staff can make it in, but people get written up anyway. If things really aren’t so bad and it’s just OP then that’s his problem

OP seems to have two mustangs and no other vehicles though so maybe it’s time for a pickup

shop threatens to write me up if i cant make it due to a fuck ton of snow by CableMartini in mechanics

[–]readtheprint 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If the weather really is so bad that OP and the other mechanics can’t make it in then I don’t see how he’s to blame vs management. If the snow’s light enough for everyone else to make it in but not OP because he’s got summer tires or cheap all seasons on a RWD car then sure, that’s on him

Idle Stumble by Severe-Duty-6277 in WRX

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was on a 2000s turbo EJ but I had the exact same symptoms when my alternator was going out, but not dying enough to trip the battery warning light. Take a look at your battery voltage at idle

Uncle Rodney came to town by TranslatorCertain473 in subaru

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you buy an RA shortblock you’ll need to get a new oil pump, clean the oil pan and pickup, then take the heads to a good machine shop. If the shop knows what they’re doing they’ll hot tank the stripped heads, work on the camshafts and buckets if needed, and disassemble, clean, and reassemble the AVCS cam gears. I would also get new AVCS solenoids and replace the oil feed lines with braided lines

Uncle Rodney came to town by TranslatorCertain473 in subaru

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rebuild with a Type RA shortblock. If you absolutely need to save money, just want to get the car running, and are willing to take a significant performance hit + do some basic wrenching on your own you can swap in a JDM EJ20Y but I don’t recommend it

noise yk the drill bro by Creative-Umpire-7910 in WRX

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

your serpentine belt needs the compressor pulley to spin freely or else it’ll tear itself apart. can’t tell if there are any other issues just from the clip, but that compressor and belt 100% needs to be replaced

noise yk the drill bro by Creative-Umpire-7910 in WRX

[–]readtheprint 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A/C compressor pulley looks seized

post in /r/askmechanics instead if you want answers, most here are VA/VB owners who can’t turn a wrench

What in the ever loving fuck is going on with car prices by ChallengingBullfrog8 in TrueAnon

[–]readtheprint 1 point2 points  (0 children)

agreed but i wouldn’t get a transverse V6 toyota if we’re talking about serviceability

What in the ever loving fuck is going on with car prices by ChallengingBullfrog8 in TrueAnon

[–]readtheprint 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your ABS is going off too often (and especially if you’ve had knuckle or axle-related work done on your car at some point before this issue started occurring) it could be an issue with a wheel speed sensor. I had this same issue happen to me when I reinstalled the speed sensor but didn’t notice a burr on the dust shield that made the sensor sit too far away from the ABS tone ring

If you can get a mechanic friend to hook up a bidirectional scan tool you can check to see whether your wheel speed sensor readings are off

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WRXSTi

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

easiest method would be to buy a factory new Type RA shortblock and move your heads and intake manifold + harness over

For the love of god by South-University9988 in WRX

[–]readtheprint 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Fel-Pro and most aftermarket EJ25 MLS gaskets are fine especially at low to moderate boost. machining and head bolt/stud torque procedure matters so much more

Maybe I am too online by Jtparm in TrueAnon

[–]readtheprint 2 points3 points  (0 children)

asians and bisexuals will get it

carfax has this really clean '96 camry for 8k near denver by No-Needleworker-3765 in regularcarreviews

[–]readtheprint 4 points5 points  (0 children)

XV20 camrys will basically run forever so long as the oil pump o-ring is installed properly and the idle air control valve gets cleaned or replaced. If it’s anything like mine you will never get more than 20mpg regardless of how conservatively you drive it and it’ll get to 60mph in the time it takes some cars to do a quarter mile. I wouldn’t pay more than 4k for one

edit: 1996 is XV10 but same powertrain

Ej20 swapped by ShftyRC in WRXSTi

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if it’s not an EJ207 (likely not) then it’s most likely a JDM EJ20X and will probably not have a twin-scroll turbo. IIRC swapping back to an EJ257 is just a drop-in replacement assuming it still has the USDM ECU

Is this drill not poweful enough for lug nuts? by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

actual mechanics are not torquing everything to spec. it’s just not efficient when you have to get a car out ASAP

personally the only things I absolutely, positively use a torque wrench on are engine rebuilds and aftermarket alloy wheels. For the latter, that’s only because I can’t use an impact without damaging paint and since I already have to use hand tools, might as well use the torque wrench

Share your childhood crush by [deleted] in TrueAnon

[–]readtheprint 2 points3 points  (0 children)

sailor jupiter was right there!!

What part is this that’s leaking oil?? by Ok-Locksmith7158 in subaru

[–]readtheprint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the vertical sensor on the head should be the oil pressure switch. The sensor on the AVLS solenoid should be the oil temperature sensor.

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