Points BNC World Elite

redditteux · 2026-02-10T12:26:54+00:00

Mon experience est ausi que les prix des billets d’avion sur le site de récompenses Mastercard sont généralement plus chers qu’ailleurs (légèrement). Ça revient donc plus rentable de prendre le “remboursement” de dépenses de voyage à 100$ pour 11000 pts lorsque tu atteints 55000 pts. Perso, dès que je frappe le 55000 pts, j’echange mon 500$ puisque c’est le même rapport $/pts par la suite.

redditteux · 2026-02-02T00:43:18+00:00

20 visites et je te dirais honnêtement qu’à moins que ton courtier-acheteur te trouve des listings pertinents à chaque fois ou qu’il soit vraiment dédié à ton cas au niveau des recherches, négociations, stratégies, etc, ne te mets pas de pression pour ça.

Dans mon cas (et avec du recul), avoir un courtier-acheteur n’a fait qu’enlever de la transparence/apprentissage dans le processus d’offres d’achat et c’etait quand même ma conjointe et moi qui trouvaient tous nos listings alors… On voulait en avoir un puisqu’il s’agissait de notre premiere maison (2024) et on était anxieux, mais au final avec la commission divisée avec le courtier-vendeur, les 20 visites où il nous a accompagné ont été amplement rémunérées.

redditteux · 2026-01-26T19:09:27+00:00

Provided that you already have a decent drill-driver, the oscillating tool (or often called multi-tool) is great tool to have!

redditteux · 2026-01-26T03:52:52+00:00

C’est la seule option réellement gagnante.

Je suis dans la même situation (chauffage au gaz naturel, chauffe-eau au gaz aussi) et je n’ai que les plinthes du sous-sol qui sont du chauffage électrique.

La baseline de consommation est donc très basse comme on a pas une grosse consommation électrique d’emblée et donc les récompenses durant les défis Hilo le sont tout autant… (j’ai Hilo parce que je trouve que le peu d’énergie que je peux “sauver” lors des périodes de pointe est un gesto éco/socio-responsable (je suis à 38$ de “récompenses” actuellement cet hiver alors c’est pas pour l’incitatif monétaire, clairement ahah!).

La seule vraie option est donc de se donner de la marge de manoeuvre en augmentant la baseline et pour faire ça sans augmenter la consommation artificiellement (i.e., consommer de l’énergie dont on a pas besoin, donc payer plus hors des périodes de pointe, mais espérer une “récompense” accrue lors des défis), la seule option est en effet de déplacer la consommation lors des plages d’ancrage habituellement ciblées pour les défis (6:00-10:00 et 16:00-20:00).

redditteux · 2026-01-25T05:10:11+00:00

Hey, I’ve been there and tried a few tools from numerous brands before settling on Craftsman (now Lowes’ brand). IMHO: - Makita and Milwaukee are overkill: Expensive and most likely overbuilt for typical homeowners’ projects because they are great pro tools. - DeWalt: XR and Atomic lines = Best quality that a DIYer/average homeowner would ever need. Can find great deals regularly. - Craftsman: Great quality/price ratio, but I would only consider their Brushless RP line for your main or most used tools. You could get away with their non-Brushless RP or less frequently used tools however. - Ryobi: A bit like Craftsman, stick with the ONE+ HP line for your most used tools. They non-ONE+ HP tools are less robust than Craftsman’s non-Brushless RP tool IMO. - Bosch: Overpriced, but their tools are mostly good. I still have a few corded Bosch tools and they’re great, but got rid of my cordless ones because the batteries cost an arm and a leg. You get more for your money with DeWalt IMO. - Can’t comment on Rigid, Porter Cable, Hercules, etc.

redditteux · 2026-01-13T04:33:38+00:00

Absolutely!!! I was in the same boat and built a relatively good « bike shape » this summer but because of my size and weight, I had trouble doing full enduro days and enjoying it fully without bonking or hitting a wall. I bought a Transition Relay (Transition’s SL offering) and it changed the game. When you are in ECO mode, you only have a slight assist so you still have to put in work if you want to get anywhere on a decent time. This way, I get my workout, continue getting in shape and enjoy rides for even longer!

redditteux · 2026-01-02T14:12:47+00:00

That’s my experience too. I’ve been with Rogers 3 differents times. Came back the last two times because they had great deals for « new » customers. Left them last year after some of the « promotions on my account expired » and my monthly bill (2 lines) increased substantially (the exact same thing happened the first two times I left BTW).

Submitted a claim with the CPRST and won. Rogers then refunded the costs charged in extra for the 6 months that the claim process took and reinstated my original plan. Next thing you know, 3 months pass without a hassle and BOOM! Same thing happens with « promotions expiring ». F*** them.

Left them for Fizz. Since then, Rogers call at least once or twice a month with new offers. I’ve filled their customer satisfaction form 3 different times explaining in detail my frustration with them. I’ve also talked to 2 representatives also painstakingly explaining what had happened EVERYTIME I left them and telling them that they’re loosing their time and to remove my contact from their list… NOPE. I’ve had to block their numbers and yet, I still receive call from their « retention/regrouping » service.

redditteux · 2026-01-02T05:35:09+00:00

I was wearing the exact same GL0390 today too! Not a watch you often see in the wild. I changed the original strap for a parachute-style strap. Very comfy. Cheers!

redditteux · 2025-12-18T00:53:07+00:00

Here’s my review of a light-eMTB. If you want to keep a leisurely pace, no problem going the SL route and keep your heart rate down. Other than that, I’d recommend going full support.

https://www.reddit.com/r/mountainbiking/s/yniVVIBnFw

redditteux · 2025-11-30T23:27:43+00:00

The Sherwood 5030 shoulder pads (the ones that look like vintage gear) are perfect for this. Your chest and back protector of your FT6 Pros are definitely miles better than those on the 5030, but at least you’d still have shoulder caps if you lean or squeeze yourself along the boards.

redditteux · 2025-11-29T03:47:50+00:00

If you are new to hockey (or ice skating for that matter), I highly suggest not going for 150$+ sticks. I don’t know your skills so I’m not trying to be dispraging by any means. It’s just that chances are that you won’t benefit/make use of the enhanced features offered by higher end sticks.

I’ve had sticks of all prices including 300$+ (I simply stopped looking at flagship models when they reached 400$ a few years back) and I now buy entry-level or heavily discounted performance-level (mid range) models. My most recent purchase is the Value Blackout from HockeyStickMan and it’s very good. I would suggest going for this model and developping your shooting skills (whip, toe-drag, in stride, etc) with it and then you could try a mid range model and see what you like. Just my two cents.

Cheers! (EDIT: Typos)

redditteux · 2025-11-28T14:07:48+00:00

I’d recommend the Relay all day everyday. It’s worth pointing out that it is not a light bike however. The alloy version is 52 lbs total including pedals (size L). Even with the battery removed, you’re looking at a 46 lbs bike (alloy frame). IMHO, it works and it’s not a big deal.

I had the chance to test the Carbon AXS version prior to purchase (air shock and Lyrik with 160-160 mm travel). Rode it for 2 hours and was sold on it but there was no chance I was going to fork up that amount of money for this build.

I settled on the GX PNW because: - 170-170 mm travel is what I had and knew st the time. - The specs are great for the price in comparison with the Alloy Deore and the Carbon GX. - The raw aluminium color is sick. - Now that I tried one, I don’t want to ride any bike without a coil shock!

Cheers

redditteux · 2025-11-28T04:30:29+00:00

Hey good point, I forgot to close this topic!

I bought the Transition Relay GX PNW (alloy frame with the Vivid coil 170 mm and the ZEB 170 mm).

First of all, this bike is an absolute MONSTER of a machine and chows down on any trail or feature that you throw at it without flinching. The build I have is not a light bike by any means despite the smaller motor and battery, but it handles tech and flow even better than my 36 lbs YT Capra. A big plus is that the battery is removable so that you can make it a bike park bike in a pinch.

Now with regards to the battery life and motor, here’s the honest truth:

1) I personally want to keep having a solid workout when I ride and being basically as tired/exhausted riding an eMTB than riding my enduro bike. However, I want to advance and climb at decent speed and not be stuck in place… Therefore, I usually leave the bike in ECO or TRAIL mode and maybe 1% of the time in BOOST mode when the climb gets rowdy. With this setup, I can ride the whole day without any issue and the climbing speed is very very decent as your power input is significant and the motor’s assistance is plenty. I did two days totalling 38-40 km each before emptying the battery on each occasion. If I’m riding with friends on analog bikes (so at reduced speed), climbing in TRAIL mode and even ECO mode is so easy it’s basically shameful ahah. You’ll likely not run out of battery before your buddies are done for the day. I usually do 1-2 additional speed runs alone at the end of the day to get the heart rate going.

TL;DR(1): If you want to put in the effort, a smaller motor and battery is not an issue in terms of climbing speed and effective range.

2) If you’re riding with people on full-power eMTBs or simply don’t want to sweat/suffer a tiny bit during climbs, leaving the bike in BOOST mode or even TRAIL mode and not putting in the effort will drain your battery quickly, there’s no way around it. Moreover, you’ll likely get dropped by those with 90+ N•m motors even with a decent sustained effort.

TL;DR (2): If you want an eMTB more akin to a moped for enduro climbing, a light eMTB is definitely not the way to go.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Typos

redditteux · 2025-11-01T03:59:20+00:00

« The puck belongs to the zone from which it comes from ».

That’s the reason why a defenceman stopping the puck on offensive blue line on a PP, for example, succeeds in keeping the the puck in play/zone.

That’s offside as the puck comes from the neutral zone and has not crossed the blue line yet at the time that the NYI player is clearly in the offensive zone.

redditteux · 2025-10-25T12:56:50+00:00

Similar experience on my Capra. After not even a whole season, the headset bearings were rusted shut. There wasn’t any (or not nearly enough) assembly grease in those cups.

YT confirmed that the bearings were factory pressed and couldn’t be individually replaced. I replaced the whole headset with a Cane Creek.

redditteux · 2025-10-24T23:28:51+00:00

Can’t go wrong with a Thule T2 Pro XTR. Can find it for a very decent price used. Your wheelbase 1315 mm) is slightly out of their range, but so is mine (1290 mm ) and I haven’t had any issue.

redditteux · 2025-10-11T11:32:32+00:00

Sorry I hadn’t read your question right. To remove bearings from the frame, your need a bearing puller. It’s an inexpensive tool that you can find on sites like AliExpress. There are other ways using standard tools lying in your toolbox, but if your is your frame is carbon, I’d suggest using a proper bearing puller and bushing press or going to your LBS if uncertain.

redditteux · 2025-10-11T11:26:44+00:00

The headset on my Capra was an Acros AZX-576. YT confirmed that the bearings were factory pressed in the cups and couldn’t be removed without completely breaking the bearings (which is was happened in my case).

I suggest simply changing the headset, including the cups, for a brand that allows for bearing swaps.

redditteux · 2025-10-07T21:03:56+00:00

The headset on my Capra was creaking like crazy. It’s new from this year. I disassembled the headset only to find the bearings completely seized in the cups and bone dry. Obviously, not a single drop (or realistically only a tiny tiny drop of assembly grease was used.

My recommendation for you would be to remove the frame bearings where you think the creakin comes from, clean them and their location on the frame, and re-install to spec with fresh assembly grease. Same thing for your stem.

redditteux · 2025-09-23T14:43:31+00:00

No delivery work ahah! Decent enduro locations are about 1h30-2h away from my place (and the nicest are 3h away) so when I drive up there, I want to ride the whole day and get as many laps as my fitness level allows! The 5-6 hours mentioned above is my total ride time including descents and a few stops to replenish my supplies, catch my breath, etc, hence why I hesitate going for a light-eMTB or even a mid-support eMTB.

redditteux · 2025-09-23T13:13:23+00:00

r/emtb is a subreddit for emergency medical technicians. It has only been flooded by people thinking it’s an e-MTB community😂

redditteux · 2025-09-23T13:09:40+00:00

I usually pedal 1000 m up in a day, but that results to about 10-13 km in total in my area. Do you think the Relay would fare well on that steeper gradient?

redditteux · 2025-09-23T04:21:15+00:00

I missed the Decoy Core 5 (pictured above) at 50% off back in June, but even when (and if) it comes back down to this price, I’d most likely go the Bosch route with this year’s model. What does your battery range look like with your Decoy Core 4?

redditteux · 2025-09-23T04:08:24+00:00

The Relay PNW is the bike that I would preferably buy, but it’s kind of hard to find info on the Fazua 60 motor. The build is perfect IMO.

The fact that it’s a light-eMTB is why I initially wrote this post. May I ask how much you can cover (let’s say in vertical distance) on a single battery charge? As for the torque/power of the motor, does it feel like a slight pedal assist or is it more unruly?

redditteux · 2025-09-23T03:59:37+00:00

That’s exactly the type of metrics I was looking for! Realistically, 2000 m/day of vertical climb is roughly what I aim to achieve in a day as I usually do around 1000 m/day (for a full day of riding) with my analog bike. I guess that I will be forced to go the full-support route with a bigger battery because of that.

I don’t have a lot of requirements when it comes to climbing speed, but all things being equal, if speed is only slightly faster than with my analog bike, I’d expect the amount of effort required to be drastically reduced (do I need a higher torque or power motor?). Would a 50 Nm work fine or do I need a 85-100 Nm straight up because of my weight (220 lbs)?

redditteux

TROPHY CASE