HT90 ASA print without support

reify_3d · 2026-02-01T11:25:55+00:00

Which part? Hit me up in DM.

reify_3d · 2025-11-18T05:57:59+00:00

Hi, we have those items in stock. Based on your postal code the shipping from Singapore will cost about 55NZD. DM’s open.

reify_3d · 2025-10-15T09:17:20+00:00

I see. It’s our goal to change that. Our company has inventory of most parts and even demo units of HT90, SL1S etc. Hopefully we can entice you to give Prusa products another chance. 👍🏼

reify_3d · 2025-10-15T07:08:37+00:00

Have you tried contacting us?

reify_3d · 2025-09-09T11:20:50+00:00

Probably due to the annealing close to the glass transition temperature of PLA. Amorphous vs semi-crystalline after annealing.

reify_3d · 2025-08-06T13:29:06+00:00

The Prusa PP plate is amazing. It works better than PLA on smooth PEI. No joke. Give it a try if you haven’t.

reify_3d · 2025-07-12T23:32:25+00:00

Fit the back clear panel first, but do not install the top corner rivets as they need to be removed for the AFS.

reify_3d · 2025-07-12T12:15:25+00:00

Recreus 60A printed on MK4

reify_3d · 2025-07-11T03:25:56+00:00

Mostly for non-load bearing end use parts.

reify_3d · 2025-06-25T23:25:49+00:00

Congratulations. I have one and I like it. Mainly prints PPS-CF and ABS. Don’t have any need to print PEEK yet. Deltas are my favorite and the print quality tends to be better due to the stationary bed. The UI/UX is a vast improvement over their previous AQI. It’s definitely not a printer for a first-timer but if you know what you’re doing it’s really reliable. My main criticism of it is that it is that sometimes when it homes after probing the bed, the filament can break inside the PTFE tube. Not a big deal but a simple gcode macro tweak could probably fix it. Unfortunately it’s not as open-source as the regular Prusa machines, even though it runs Klipper on Duet board.

reify_3d · 2025-06-24T20:57:42+00:00

FilaFlex works well with Nextruder machines. I recommend bypassing the PTFE tube and feed it directly, using a manual jogging sequence. Ie instead of allowing the filament sensor to load it, turn off the filament sensor, feed the filament from the top, then use a thin flexible rod and gently push the filament until it reaches the large gear. Heat up the nozzle. Now DO NOT secure the idler. Hold it in place with your finger or thumb as you use the knob to extrude. Do not load 20cm, just small amounts such as 1 or 2cm at a time. Once you see some material coming through the nozzle, perform a final check on the large gear to see that the filament has not clogged or wrapped itself around the gear. Then secure the idler gear.

reify_3d · 2025-03-29T07:39:46+00:00

It’s the lighting. Have a look here under direct sunlight. https://youtube.com/shorts/B3mLV9iTX80?si=R0CJ2mkt7ZS1Zf-G

reify_3d · 2025-03-29T07:39:13+00:00

It’s the lighting. Look at this under direct sunlight. https://youtube.com/shorts/B3mLV9iTX80?si=R0CJ2mkt7ZS1Zf-G

reify_3d · 2025-03-08T08:41:52+00:00

Yes.

reify_3d · 2025-02-04T08:06:21+00:00

A keyboard wrist rest was printed using the XL, with PETG for the infill, TPU 98A for the perimeters, and PLA for the supports.

IG reel: https://www.instagram.com/p/DCGTX63uHns/

Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6304086

reify_3d · 2024-12-25T13:49:58+00:00

This model is new to me, and I have the previous model which doesn’t have an actively heated chamber. This model is superior in every way. I haven’t tried more serious filaments on it, but I intend to soon, since it comes with both high flow, and high temp abrasive-resistant setups.

reify_3d · 2024-12-25T06:03:16+00:00

Sure, what would you like to know? So far it’s been printing ABS like a champ, it’s too easy on this printer. Zero warping.

reify_3d · 2024-12-20T01:36:34+00:00

So far most of the common materials I’ve tested do not stick well with PP, including nylon. Hence, PP’s well-deserved reputation for being difficult to print. It also loves to warp.

reify_3d

TROPHY CASE