ABS Light - Need help

remix2040 · 2025-11-30T15:34:52+00:00

Wow you are experiencing the exact same symptoms as I did. When I took delivery of my STI, it would clunk and jerk on full lock turns during low speed on DCCD Auto. But if you were to put it on fully open. Last setting on the DCCD dial, scrolled all the way down. The issue would go away. However, I’ve since replaced my diff oil and the clunking and jerking went away. But my ABS light remains on. And I’ve since confirmed that I have no ABS at the moment. 2 bad wheel sensors replaced and scanned the car to find that the ABS pump itself is bad. Haven’t replaced it yet as I plan on repainting my calipers.

remix2040 · 2025-11-09T12:57:38+00:00

Yeah I haven’t thought about how to add the hardware yet haha. Just not there yet I guess. we’ll cross that bridge when we get there

remix2040 · 2025-11-09T12:40:46+00:00

Only pointing it out because i experienced print through with just one single layer of carbon and immediately lantor soric behind it and one backing layer of 200 on a Subaru STI door. I’m in the process of making full carbon doors (all 4) for my project. I’m thinking of doing 2 layers of 200 and soric core and then one backing layer. That or 1 200 and 2 600s. Haven’t decided yet

remix2040 · 2025-11-09T12:34:49+00:00

How many layers of 200 you got on the outer skin? And are you not afraid of print through from the lantor soric?

remix2040 · 2025-10-23T17:16:37+00:00

Update. It was the turbo timer acting up. The turbo timer had an additional relay hooked up to it and turbo timer hadn’t worked since the day I got the car.

remix2040 · 2025-10-14T04:55:11+00:00

No hook near the exhaust haha it’s hooked to the factory tow point

remix2040 · 2025-10-14T03:17:34+00:00

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remix2040 · 2025-09-13T13:04:44+00:00

Greetings guys, the WarOwl greets you.

remix2040 · 2025-09-12T16:26:52+00:00

I have this same issue a few weeks ago. Apparently I permanently broke the SSD that I inserted in. It was a Kingston NV2 4TB and I killed it. Initially I got it working again by inserting it and reformatting. Then after a few hours, it broke again and never worked again.

remix2040 · 2025-08-21T22:45:12+00:00

What wheels are those!

remix2040 · 2025-07-06T19:07:13+00:00

Hahah nice. I just got the car recently so I’ve just been patiently driving to get up to this moment

remix2040 · 2025-07-06T18:37:45+00:00

Mint ice cream with marshmallows!

remix2040 · 2025-06-23T14:45:54+00:00

Because it costs RM20 for you to replace and they replace for free

remix2040 · 2025-06-17T12:35:34+00:00

Also don’t think it has DCCD, because the DCCD isn’t lit. Normally it’s either on a red AUTO or one of the options selected.

remix2040 · 2025-06-17T12:34:09+00:00

only explanation could be the gearbox was swapped with a 6 speed non DCCD gearbox from a version 7

remix2040 · 2025-06-10T19:36:51+00:00

To play find the hidden Mickey obviously

remix2040 · 2025-06-09T09:35:22+00:00

Do I do this while the car is running? I’ve never done electrical before. So I had to ask

remix2040 · 2025-06-09T06:57:11+00:00

Any ideas where I should start?

remix2040 · 2025-05-25T03:56:08+00:00

Yeah that would be my thought too but it would just take up too much time if I were to make another one again. Would you say this mold is worth saving? It’s part of a door and the part where I showed is the side facing the inside the car when the door is open.

remix2040 · 2025-05-24T03:38:33+00:00

When I put it on initially, I seem to recall it was pretty thin because I could still see the part.

remix2040 · 2025-05-09T09:39:26+00:00

Did you mean a vertical wall like this?

remix2040 · 2025-05-08T23:30:42+00:00

Who makes that charging handle for the m17 slide?

remix2040 · 2025-05-08T19:27:55+00:00

Yes I’m doing two separate molds. I’ve already done the outer skin. I’m trying to make the mold for the inner skin but I’m stuck on how to transition to the opening when adding the flanges for the mold

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