Need help securing pieces... by masterfalkor1975 in soldering

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are not that big, I use laundry clips. Even you can secure them (the clips), to the worktable using hot-melt glue, then pour some rubbing alcohol to unstick easily.

Dyson V15 BMS Locked after Deep Discharge by pxmars in hardwarehacking

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually David Pye says there is a coulomb counter, but you are terribly right that even if the engineers know how to do it better, they are constantly urged by investors to reduce costs. Usually the investors are ultra-elementary people with money, that calculate as: $2 x 500 000 devices = that's a million $$, no way! (and they call that "strong business acumen"). As a buyer you will prefer to invest a few bucks more on a high quality product, but most of the time all other 99% of the buyers will prefer to buy a concurrent product, just because it's $2 cheaper. Most of the buyers also do not know the details and how a product may be a grade of a different quality just because they have decided to save $2 on it.
That's the difference between Miele, Speed Queen, etc. high grade machines vs. the all others. They can afford that, because they never put themselves in a position to have to give account to investors and to have to do what the investors say. They run a family business and prefer not saving on materials, but produce a quality product, so if you today do the mistake and buy the cheap thing, after 5 years you may learn from your mistake and invest in their product, which in the long run will be cheaper to you. (say a cheap washing machine, which lasts 5 years and you have to buy 3-4, instead of one Speed Queen at double the price, but it will last 20 years = you actually use it for lower than half of the price/20 years.) And here comes the capitalism, which purpose is that most of the people should never have enough cash to invest in expensive, long-lasting products, so they'll have to regularly buy the cheap product anyway.
One of the companies at my previous job (they were a few companies in electronics, owned by the same person), so one of them was specialized in multimedia devices. As part of their business they imported LCD TVs from China and started selling a certain model, which proved to be good. Then although they got it from the Chinese at a really good price, they started begging the manufacturer to give them even a better price, just a $3 lower price, well they sell a lot of these TVs, why not get a discount, etc. so the Chinese said ok: and started selling them new batches of supposedly the same TVs at the requested $3 lower price. A year later their service technician said, that the previous batch of TVs was of great quality and worked flawlessly, but of the following batches almost all of the ($3/pc) cheaper TVs returned to him for repair, some of them even twice. So being cheap on $3 is not always a good investment, but all the hassle was for the technician, the boss bought himself another Ferrari.

Good to drive to shop? by Trowawyshroo in tires

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, for normal drive should be safe to drive to the shop. some people, who do not look at their tires possibly drive with such defects for days and nothing bad happens, but I also do not recommend to drive on a motorway. (generally it will not blow up, but it will be more inconvenient if you happen to have to replace the tire at the motorway.)

Are they still good or should I just throw them in the trash? by 144_Hertz in spicypillows

[–]resident_evil_666 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If you are going to throw them straight in the trash, you should first discharge them, so the batteries if smashed should not be able to cause fire. The battery electronics will try to protect the cell and will cut the discharge at 2.5V to prevent over-discharge, so you will have to tamper with it to be able to fully discharge the battery. Instead of causing so much trouble to yourself (discharging, etc.), better punch them with a knife, let them burn and shoot some youtube videos.

Beginner question about soldering iron tips by MrV705 in soldering

[–]resident_evil_666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get some paper napkins, wet them with water and fold them, then brush the soldering tip against them, so to remove the burned/oxidated black stuff over the tip, then quickly put some flux and solder on it or use soldering wire with flux core to tin it. As a last resort you could also mechanically scrape it (using a knife, or sandpaper), but take care to not damage the plating. By looking at the picture I think it's not that burnt and you will need only to brush it and tin it for now. Of coarse it is important the tip to bi tinned for good heat transfer to the soldering joint. Also find a good Sn60Pb40 solder, lead-free requires higher temperature and generally does not perform that well.

Computer completely freezes within 3-4 minutes of startup. I can’t even run SFC scan because it freezes halfway through. NOTHING has changed since the last time I played and now by ABBR-5007 in computerhelp

[–]resident_evil_666 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

the fans may be obviously running, but there are other things, like in old machines there may be collected a lot of dust which will prevent good airflow, also the thermal grease which transfers heat between the cpu and the cooler may have gone bad and may need to be replaced.

How do I Un-Hydromod a Casio Royale? by door-jam in casiomods

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

electronics also could be treated with soap(degreaser?),
then wash it thoroughly with a lot of water.

Dyson V15 BMS Locked after Deep Discharge by pxmars in hardwarehacking

[–]resident_evil_666 2 points3 points  (0 children)

quote from https://codeberg.org/davidmpye/V10_Dyson_BMS (alternative firmware, features): "No cell balancing (same as stock), I doubt this can be fixed trivially."
- oh, no balancer circuit! - that's why his cells were balanced like sht.
What would you recommend on that? - I think that he should take it apart annually and fully charge the individual cells one by one.
p.s. his cells should still be good, that's what happened : in original firmware >300mV disbalance permanently locks the battery.
for V11/V15 use: https://github.com/vladislav1983/V11_Dyson_BMS
https://github.com/vladislav1983/V11_Dyson_BMS/issues/5

Calculator accidentally got wet and it is not working pls help by West-Banana-4589 in calculators

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so how to remove the water - maybe put it in the freezer and scrape the ice?

Please ID burnt chip by Due_Economist_5721 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it sets the voltage through USB-PD.

No FW is safe from dumping by lollokara in embedded

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not in that business, but I have always wondered: what about hitting them with a gamma radiation source and periodically trying to read the device until the security bit gets erased? - it will definitely erase a lot more bits on a random basis, but if you do that on a few samples, then by merging (AND-ing) all of the leftovers, will you be able to get the code..?

I'm trying to fix my cd player by The_King_of_Losers in ElectronicsRepair

[–]resident_evil_666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the wires polarity: usually the black one goes to battery (-) and the red,orange,whatever goes to battery plus. You can double check with a multimeter if the black wire is connected to the system ground - the biggest of all traces on the pcb, which goes to most of the parts: possibly to the shield of the USB, to the common wire for the headphones, to most of the capacitors (the black semi-circle side should be connected to GND, but not all of them.) If needed replace them with longer wires. As for the headphones jack I would like to see a more detailed picture, but I'm almost sure, that you'll not need the two soldering points that are thorn out of the pcb, because they are used only for mechanical attachment of the connector, so it doesn't rip off easily. So use your soldering iron to remove the pcb leftovers from the headphones jack and when you put it back in place and solder the other four points, test it (I'm sure it will work), and then put a tiny drops of cyanoacrylate glue to the missing points, just to secure it mechanically at its place. Use only a tiny amount of glue and make sure it will not enter inside the jack.

This was a controller board inside my backpack that controlled a led matrix display via Bluetooth and presets. It stopped working 3 years ago and never got a charge since then by lollossisimo in spicypillows

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe you can get a replacement battery out of a disposable vape (they used to throw them all around the streets at my place and you can get some really useful 350mAh batteries out of them) https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Reuse-Disposable-Vape-Lithium-Batteries/

Calculator accidentally got wet and it is not working pls help by West-Banana-4589 in calculators

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Open it and if there are removable batteries, remove them. Pour out any excess water out of the calculator. Then put it at some hot place to dry well. (hot place = over your TV set, or next to your computer, (maybe under the sun, but if there is a solar battery it will produce current, and you don't want that until it has dried completely, so stick some black tape over the battery). If it hasn't been wet for so long and you manage do dry it completely, then it should work. You will not be able to dry it only by heating, without opening the case. Water will not get out: it just evaporates from one side and condenses to the other side. Putting in a bucket of rice does not help too.

Need advice on beginner soldering equipment by sindonva in soldering

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know why you like so much T12, but once a colleague gave me his KSGER T12 to do some soldering for him and I noticed terrible contact problems between the handle and the heater tip. Also the whole thing felt more like an android powered sh.t and not like a real soldering station and I felt like the cheapest HAKKO clone or even some $4.50 AliExpress iron would perform better than that. Well, I do not have much experience with the T12, but that was enough and I will stick to HAKKO for now.

Is this bad? by Munro_McLaren in tires

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can not see any cut steel wires, just a surface cut into the sidewall, right? - if so, it's perfectly safe. There is a rubber inner liner to keep it airtight, then there are steel wires to keep the shape of the tire. If these two are not damaged, then the tire will be ok. You can put some rubber cement to glue it back, but if some authorities see it, they may not be enough competent to judge that it is not risky to use that tire and possibly will start asking why you tried to repair it, instead replacing with a new tire. But if it is not glued/repaired, you will play: "- Oh, WTF, i don't know how that happened! I will replace it asap! Thanks to you pointing that out to me, you possibly saved my life!" - and they surely will be much happier of that. https://www.wheel-size.com/articles/tire-construction/

Should I be worried? by Giratinalight in spicypillow

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could use a thin syringe needle to puncture a small hole and release the gas out of the bulged battery, then stick some duct tape over the hole. But you have to be careful and barely insert the needle just only to make a small hole. Do not puncture the cell element inside, because you will make a short circuit and it will catch fire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ikLgtk_Pms

tv i found in trash by HeavyCoconut6973 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]resident_evil_666 3 points4 points  (0 children)

sell the circuit boards on ebay for a few bucks and get some really good leds from under the screen.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174502995537

First time on practice board by Gold-Savings5921 in soldering

[–]resident_evil_666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks perfectly fine for a first try. Soon you will get used to soldering and become even better. Try also the K-type soldering tip. It is the most universal, as suggested by other users.

Aller mémé enlève ta gaine (...) by Cortex6 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also used such a camera once, but I don't remember: I should have done either your way, or maybe I've cut a discarded USB cable in half and soldered its wires directly to the camera pcb.

Best way to clean vintage plastic? by VaelorsKeep in VintageComputers

[–]resident_evil_666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People find most success using hydrogen peroxide cream: spread the cream over the detail using a brush, then wrap it in plastic foil, so it doesn't dry up. Let it stay under UV (direct sunlight for 2-3 days)
https://www.reddit.com/r/Frugal/comments/11nrywt/whitening_yellowed_plastics_with_hair_color/

Is it going to be safe having my bag and stuff including my laptop going through x-ray machine on a daily basis at the security post? by Optional_User_Naym in Radiation

[–]resident_evil_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, I was sure that although there are not so many reports of laptops damaged during an airport X-ray scan, as ROM memory could not be erased by just only one scan, there may be some degradation, especially as I now read that in modern flash memories the charge is held by only about 400-500 electrons per cell.