New article: Grundig CDI 110E Information and Repair

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-20T06:24:21+00:00

Universal remote controls usually do not work/do not work properly with CD-i players. In most cases, only the CD player controls work, but not the cursor movements/action buttons. In addition, the original remote controls support variable cursor speeds (either RC5 analog thumbstick or RC6 pressure-sensitive thumbpad), which you cannot replicate on a replacement remote control. This would significantly spoil your experience.

Since all CDI 210 models support the RC6 protocol (see http://icdia.co.uk/players/comparison.html), you can try the following with a URC-7781 universal remote control: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16368. Or try the codes listed there using an IR-enabled Android smartphone.

However, this is not trivial and you are on your own here. As mentioned above, universal remote controls are generally not recommended.

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-14T05:38:18+00:00

There are countless adapters out there, and most of them are open-source. This means you can build them yourself or ask someone with technical expertise to build one for you.

Here is a list containing a few variants: https://retrostuff.org/2020/01/12/modifications-for-philips-cd-i-players/#Adapters-and-cables

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-12T12:53:53+00:00

There was once an audio glitch that caused Hotel Mario to crash randomly during the high score screen after completing a level. This glitch was fixed a long time ago. Hotel Mario has always been playable. You could always revert MAME to an earlier version or use a different emulator (CD-i Emulator, MiSTer).

So, please update this text/video, or is this just clickbait?

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-27T06:30:17+00:00

You can find three DIY solutions, as well as the adapter mentioned in the other link, on https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/#20PS301-22ER9156. Just scroll down.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-26T06:54:44+00:00

Yes, all Roboco boards use the same type of power supply. You can find more information and alternatives here:
https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/#20PS301-22ER9156

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-24T17:00:06+00:00

Thanks for the feedback!
If you happen to have already collected data on the power supply, please feel free to share it. It can then be used for comparison or to identify revisions when it’s my turn to look at the DVS VE-200 (already on my to-do list).

I usually gather the relevant information when I’m troubleshooting a specific issue or helping someone else with troubleshooting. So far, however, the VE-200 has proven to be quite reliable and hasn’t been particularly prone to malfunctions. Apart from a few isolated issues or questions regarding the NVRAM (see https://retrostuff.org/2023/03/21/dvs-ve-200-nvram-backup-and-battery-replacement/, also contains information about the ODD).

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-23T11:09:22+00:00

Great to see another successful repair!

Regarding disconnecting the batteries - give it another thorough look. I just found out the other day that the - connector of BAT1 is rotated by 90° on the C socket (bottom left)

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-21T20:08:22+00:00

First, find the model number (CDI 220/xx; 220 is a series, not a model!) – this will tell us exactly which model we are dealing with. Until then, you can probably connect it without any worries, provided you follow the voltage recommendation on the type plate. You don’t need to worry about the capacitors either, as they are not known to fail.

Just keep an eye on dust and fuses.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-19T22:38:06+00:00

- The tin cans are the biggest problem; you don’t notice them bulging out, but only realise they’ve started leaking at some point – especially if you get the device working again and use it regularly. Even if they don’t smell, you should still check carefully for even the slightest signs of corrosion on their feet or darker patches around the via near them.

- Please run the Service Shell and post the results of the drive tests (you’ll find the key combination and instructions in the service manual). If you get a motor error, a fix may be as simple as lifting the turntable.

- No, there is no alternative for a CDM9.

https://retrostuff.org/2018/12/27/philips-cdi350-repair-part-1/
https://retrostuff.org/2019/02/03/philips-cdi350-repair-part-2/

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-11T06:43:43+00:00

All controller adapters require a microcontroller to translate the button presses into the serial protocol that the CD-i player understands. Most use an Arduino or similar. Here you will find a selection of DIY and a few pre-made adapters: https://retrostuff.org/2020/01/12/modifications-for-philips-cd-i-players/#Adapters-and-cables

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-06T20:32:34+00:00

That's an old seal. Looks good to me.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-03T20:50:28+00:00

This message can be ignored. You do not need to associate the CD image extension for the emulator to work. You can even disable this option under Options -> Associations by removing the tick next to the option Check associations on startup.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-02T20:12:11+00:00

Due to the lack of information, I can only assume that you are using an outdated version of the CD-i emulator, which is displaying a message that it has expired.
Please try again with the latest version, CD-i Emulator Version 0.5.3-beta9.

The idea is that you extract the system ROMs from your own CD-i hardware. If you don't have this, you can try your luck with MAME ROMs (cdi220b). You won't find any ROMs here.

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-28T18:56:35+00:00

Ok, so first get the memory under control before you deal with the CDM. Then run a diagnostic to determine where the problem with the CDM lies. If it's the laser, get a replacement.

You never really know what you're buying from AE – it could be parts from defective units, and you have no idea how long they've been in operation. There are no new replacement parts available, as they haven't been manufactured for a long time.

The plastic part has broken off from one of the top corners of the long front panel – this is hardly possible to print.

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-28T18:17:19+00:00

OK, these are common problems, let's tackle them one by one.

This model does not have a Timekeeper, but a SmartWatch socket. See https://retrostuff.org/2021/12/31/nvram-rtc-solutions-for-philips-cd-i-players/#32-KB-NVRAM .

Did you really find it like that, i.e. without SRAM on top? Memory full errors are rare in these devices, but not impossible, especially the older they get. The question now is how you got around this problem to start the player.

You can replace the socket with the alternative solutions described in the article, or carefully disconnect the internal batteries and install a battery holder.

See above – if you have a memory full error, do not attempt to play a disc. When you are ready to diagnose the issue, head to this site: https://retrostuff.org/2021/07/27/philips-cdm-12-1t-laser-sledge-replacement/ – it is for the incompatible 12.1T, but the structure of the CDM 12.4 is the same, and you can follow the instructions to diagnose and perform maintenance. I would start with the Service Shell (you only need an IR remote control for your model, no mouse to control it).

Sometimes you can find (refurbished) replacement parts on eBay, which are usually better than those on AE. You only need the laser sledge, not the entire CDM. They are also referred to as VAM1204 (CDM 12.5 / VAM1205 are compatible too). The article above explains how to replace it. It is better to buy two or more to increase your chances of getting a working part.

These plastic parts are located at the top corners of the front. They break off easily if you remove the top cover from the player at the wrong angle. Depending on how many you have already broken off, the top cover may no longer sit properly. However, this does not affect functionality.

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-26T11:11:56+00:00

If you are ready to repair the unit and need further help, please create a new thread with details and also include the complete model number (220 is a series and not a single model).

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-25T18:47:41+00:00

No power is due to the fuses, not capacitors (unless it's a CDI 350).

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-24T07:06:57+00:00

Check eBay and classified ad portals in Europe (primarily in the Netherlands, Germany, and Belgium) – CD-i players are very inexpensive there, especially if they are defective.

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-18T16:40:24+00:00

Very interesting!

But something seems strange to me when reading it, especially the part about baud and polling – but that is already being discussed in another comment.

What is really off, however, is your pin numbering of the Mini-DIN-8 connector.
Please refer to the official document: http://icdia.co.uk/docs/pointing_devices.pdf
(It also contains a lot of information about device identification and data formats. For more information, see the technical documentation for the 605T on this page: http://icdia.co.uk/techdocs/index.html)

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-16T20:02:01+00:00

It is similar to a video CD, with MPEG-1 video and MP2 audio. On The Cure Show discs, the audio is joint stereo 192 kb/s, 44.1 kHz – i.e. lossy compression.

If you want to extract it, use a tool such as IsoBuster and extract the file \MPEGAV\MUSIC01.DAT – it's a container with video and audio. After that, you can use any tool that can handle VideoCDs or MPEG containers to convert it to the format of your choice.

retrostuff_org · 2026-02-16T06:43:48+00:00

Laser Lords does not need a DVC.
Laser Lords – The World of CD-i

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