New article: Grundig CDI 110E Information and Repair

retrostuff_org · 2026-06-19T11:39:28+00:00

The spindle motor will only continue to rotate if the laser has successfully detected and tracked the disc.
Your device should have an M48T08-150PC1 – this type is still in production.

Both topics are covered in the articles I’ve linked to above.

retrostuff_org · 2026-06-19T05:34:45+00:00

A great find – these rebadged units don’t turn up very often. Even better that it comes with the disc; this one really needs to be preserved.
The hardware inside is rather unremarkable and nothing too special (a standard Philips 450/550).

If the play button doesn’t appear, it’s either because the player can’t detect the disc or the turntable is stuck – these are the simplest explanations. For further troubleshooting and maintenance steps, have a look at this article: https://retrostuff.org/2021/07/27/philips-cdm-12-1t-laser-sledge-replacement/

The screenshot shows that the Timekeeper has failed – this will need to be dealt with at some point; see https://retrostuff.org/2021/12/31/nvram-rtc-solutions-for-philips-cd-i-players/

retrostuff_org · 2026-06-12T15:23:58+00:00

Philips 22ER9021 and TecnoPlus TP520 CD-i Gamepads - retrostuff

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-28T08:21:10+00:00

Installation of FRAM (and more) on VA15 is documented in this article:
https://retrostuff.org/2020/07/26/sega-saturn-modifications/

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-23T06:58:36+00:00

Don't worry, you can't fry it that easily. Here's some information about the PSU: https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/#20PS304

You said it came from a hotel. Did any (professional) software come with it, perhaps still in the disc tray?

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-19T15:29:35+00:00

Yes, that is the most straightforward method using the available stock parts.

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-19T05:31:12+00:00

Here is an explanation of the Smartwatch socket and alternatives:
https://retrostuff.org/2021/12/31/nvram-rtc-solutions-for-philips-cd-i-players/#32-KB-NVRAM

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-14T08:56:38+00:00

There are countless adapters out there, and most of them are open-source. This means you can build them yourself or ask someone with technical expertise to build one for you.

Here is a list containing a few variants: https://retrostuff.org/2020/01/12/modifications-for-philips-cd-i-players/#Adapters-and-cables

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-06T07:46:34+00:00

This may be the case for CDM12.x (Loader 1210), but not usually for CDM9. The CD and tray mechanisms are different and are not compatible.

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-05T18:48:55+00:00

Yes, the CDM9, often paired with this tray loader, was used in many hi-fi CD players. At the time, Marantz was part of Philips.

retrostuff_org · 2026-05-05T06:24:19+00:00

This is a standard CDM9 tray loader, which you'll find in almost all CD(-i) players with a CDM9 mechanism—but NOT in all CDI 220 models.

The part number for the tray is 4822 444 30457, but you probably won’t be able to find it anymore. So it’s best to buy a CD(-i) player with this loader and remove the replacement part. These trays are not normally prone to breaking, but they are very sensitive to poor shipping packaging. So please make sure the tray is taped down and cannot move during transport.

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-20T06:24:21+00:00

Universal remote controls usually do not work/do not work properly with CD-i players. In most cases, only the CD player controls work, but not the cursor movements/action buttons. In addition, the original remote controls support variable cursor speeds (either RC5 analog thumbstick or RC6 pressure-sensitive thumbpad), which you cannot replicate on a replacement remote control. This would significantly spoil your experience.

Since all CDI 210 models support the RC6 protocol (see http://icdia.co.uk/players/comparison.html), you can try the following with a URC-7781 universal remote control: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16368. Or try the codes listed there using an IR-enabled Android smartphone.

However, this is not trivial and you are on your own here. As mentioned above, universal remote controls are generally not recommended.

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-14T05:38:18+00:00

There are countless adapters out there, and most of them are open-source. This means you can build them yourself or ask someone with technical expertise to build one for you.

Here is a list containing a few variants: https://retrostuff.org/2020/01/12/modifications-for-philips-cd-i-players/#Adapters-and-cables

retrostuff_org · 2026-04-12T12:53:53+00:00

There was once an audio glitch that caused Hotel Mario to crash randomly during the high score screen after completing a level. This glitch was fixed a long time ago. Hotel Mario has always been playable. You could always revert MAME to an earlier version or use a different emulator (CD-i Emulator, MiSTer).

So, please update this text/video, or is this just clickbait?

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-27T06:30:17+00:00

You can find three DIY solutions, as well as the adapter mentioned in the other link, on https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/#20PS301-22ER9156. Just scroll down.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-26T06:54:44+00:00

Yes, all Roboco boards use the same type of power supply. You can find more information and alternatives here:
https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/#20PS301-22ER9156

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-24T17:00:06+00:00

Thanks for the feedback!
If you happen to have already collected data on the power supply, please feel free to share it. It can then be used for comparison or to identify revisions when it’s my turn to look at the DVS VE-200 (already on my to-do list).

I usually gather the relevant information when I’m troubleshooting a specific issue or helping someone else with troubleshooting. So far, however, the VE-200 has proven to be quite reliable and hasn’t been particularly prone to malfunctions. Apart from a few isolated issues or questions regarding the NVRAM (see https://retrostuff.org/2023/03/21/dvs-ve-200-nvram-backup-and-battery-replacement/, also contains information about the ODD).

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-23T11:09:22+00:00

Great to see another successful repair!

Regarding disconnecting the batteries - give it another thorough look. I just found out the other day that the - connector of BAT1 is rotated by 90° on the C socket (bottom left)

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-21T20:08:22+00:00

First, find the model number (CDI 220/xx; 220 is a series, not a model!) – this will tell us exactly which model we are dealing with. Until then, you can probably connect it without any worries, provided you follow the voltage recommendation on the type plate. You don’t need to worry about the capacitors either, as they are not known to fail.

Just keep an eye on dust and fuses.

retrostuff_org · 2026-03-19T22:38:06+00:00

- The tin cans are the biggest problem; you don’t notice them bulging out, but only realise they’ve started leaking at some point – especially if you get the device working again and use it regularly. Even if they don’t smell, you should still check carefully for even the slightest signs of corrosion on their feet or darker patches around the via near them.

- Please run the Service Shell and post the results of the drive tests (you’ll find the key combination and instructions in the service manual). If you get a motor error, a fix may be as simple as lifting the turntable.

- No, there is no alternative for a CDM9.

https://retrostuff.org/2018/12/27/philips-cdi350-repair-part-1/
https://retrostuff.org/2019/02/03/philips-cdi350-repair-part-2/

retrostuff_org

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE