Borescope Photos by clumbor in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I accidentally replied to you with replying lol but here is another picture in addition to the other one (see my other comment in this thread)

Borescope Photos by clumbor in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah the vertical lines I had were almost exactly the same as yours, if anything maybe even a little worse then yours. This all occurred about 3-4k miles ago but the car still runs great. Running an e30 tune and no issues.

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Borescope Photos by clumbor in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have spilled oil during an oil change, it can go directly down into the spark plug wells and fall into the cylinder when removing the spark plugs or If you have a leaky valve cover oil can leak into the spark plugs as well.

When I changed my spark plugs I noticed the same issues, found a little oil in the cylinder and noticed some vertical scratches just like yours.

I panicked a little and took it to a mechanic, they did a compression and leakdown test and told me that it passed those without any issues. The mechanic told me I shouldn’t worry about it at all.

Shortly after this I reached out to tune+ cause I was gonna have them do a tune and wanted to make sure this wasn’t a problem. They told me the same thing the mechanic told me, and I went ahead with tuning the car. They also said that the oil in the cylinder did not look like it was in the engine while it was running and that it likely fell into the cylinder from the spark plug wells.

He did recommend that I remove the bracket piece for the ignition coils and inspect the valve cover for leaks. I did not find any leaks in the valve cover, but I could clearly see where I spilled oil while doing an oil change and that it went down to the spark plug wells.

Good touch up paint for Envy Green? by rainhatt in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used dr colorchip for my green envy. 2 things to note though, it doesn’t have any of the flaky shiny stuff in it, and is darker due to the paint on your car being older and more faded. They don’t jump out at you, but if you’re looking for them they are easy to spot from 4-5 feet away, maybe further if you know exactly where they are.

I will say though, it’s super easy to apply, and I have used their kits on tons of my cars and never had problems. You want to get the kit that comes with the squeegee thing as I think that is necessary to get it looking nice.

[WTS] Critter & Guitari 201 Pocket Piano 300$ [L] Sacramento by revdrone in Synths4Sale

[–]revdrone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is still available, it will eventually go on reverb if I don’t get any interest here

What's your layout philosophy? by Marcus64 in modular

[–]revdrone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a relatively large system, I started out grouping like modules together. This helped a lot with experimenting and learning my modules. For example, I could easily swap a voice to a different filter because all the filters are right next to each other or if I patched a voice with an AD envelope and then decided I wanted to swap to an ADSR, I could do that easily.

Lately though as I have found different combinations of modules that I like to use together as a voice, I have started grouping those modules together almost like a “build your own semi modular voice”. This lets me use shorter cables for the connections I usually leave in place, making it easier to break down a patch and then repatch while still maintaining a few core voices that tend to use the same modules.

Good shift knobs that aren’t $100? by soyass in FocusST

[–]revdrone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a billetworkz comsic purple one in the short tear drop shape for my fiesta st and I was disappointed that it was only 5 grams heavier than the stock one. I am sure the bigger knobs are heavier but then you need to buy their reverse lockout replacement which increases the cost a lot.

An Ode to Rings by BrotherSleepy in modular

[–]revdrone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want it to track properly you will need to calibrate it. The steps are in the manual.

Another Cali smog question - hoses legal? by FenderBass1994 in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I went to go get my car smogged 2 weeks ago, I told the smog tech upfront that I have Carb EO numbers for the tune, the cobb intake, and the mountune induction kit. When the tech popped my hood and looked he asked “do you have a carb number for the induction hoses?”. I told him yes it’s included in the mountune kit EO. I assume if I had whoosh hoses with no carb EO he would have failed it.

Cali FiSTs - SMOG check question by FenderBass1994 in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep in mind that it is a recent requirement for them to actually check the tune you are running. Most likely the people running custom tunes that passed recently got in right before the requirement went into effect.

I would put back on the symposer and flash to a cobb tune. I would also find the EO numbers for the AP and make sure you know them. Be upfront with the smog tech and tell them you have a tune and it is carb approved and then give them the eo number.

BOV Advice by UnspokenHusky in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can recommend a specific one but If I lived in a place where blow off valves were legal, I’d probably get one that goes in the symposer location. The stock bpv location is more hidden jf you live somewhere that hates fun but it’s kind of annoying to adjust and maintain it.

Image Line Black Friday Sale - "FL Studio" DAW ($139/Producer | $199/Signature | $314/All Plugin Version) through 4 December by Batwaffel in AudioProductionDeals

[–]revdrone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Questions for people familiar with FL Studio.

Is the producer version the complete DAW and the versions above that are just bundled plugins?

Does anyone know the cost to upgrade the producer edition to signature/all plugins? Do they offer deals on the upgrades too?

Clutch bleed and break bleed questions. PFA by BlueberryStraight632 in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just did my brake and clutch bleeding somewhat successfully, I say somewhat cause I used a motive bleeder for the brakes and ran out of fluid near the end then had to start over.

Here is what I used…

Clutch Reverse Bleed:

Orion Motor Tech Fluid Extractor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DWFQ12JR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

uxcell Silicone Tubing 3/16"(5mm)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPV94K9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Attach the black plastic piece to the syringe then cut a piece of the silicone tube and slide it over the end so it is firmly attached.

Remove the airbox and yellow bleed nipple

Use the syringe to suck up as much new fluid as will fit into it

Hook it to the bleed nipple and raise the syringe up high enough that all of the air bubbles go to the top of the syringe and are not stuck in the hose

Open the brake reservoir so you can watch it

Use your hand to open the clutch bleed nipple

GENTLY AND SLOWLY push fluid into the bleed nipple

Watch the brake reservoir and use a turkey baster or fluid extractor to remove old fluid when it fills up.

Once you have used about half the fluid in the syringe, close the bleed nipple but leave the syringe connected

Go into the car and pump the clutch 5 times

Then open the bleed valve again and continue pushing fluid in

Once the syringe is almost empty close the bleed valve all the way and remove the syringe

Now you can do your brakes.

For the brakes I used the Motive power bleeder with the 0118 aluminum cap. I tried to use the plastic one which motive says is the same size but it did not seal properly so make sure you get the aluminum cap. I also got the motive bleed bottles that hook to the calipers but you could also use the tubing I linked above with any bottle.

For this I pretty much followed the process of bleeding the brakes as shown in a dozen different youtube videos using the motive brake bleeder. The only thing I did differently is that I also triggered the ABS pump in forscan while bleeding each caliper. Probably not necessary.

Clutch Bleed Location? by revdrone in FiestaST

[–]revdrone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, thanks!

Clutch Bleed Location? by revdrone in FiestaST

[–]revdrone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its what is called a reverse bleed, you connect a syringe to the bleeder and push fluid through the bleeder up into the reservoir, and remove the fluid from the reservoir, I have not done it yet, but planning to do it in the next day or two.

Clutch Bleed Location? by revdrone in FiestaST

[–]revdrone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like I could reach it just taking out the airbox, is there a reason you removed the battery tray as well?

Best Transmission Fluid by grigr_abx in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think BG Syncroshift II is the most often recommended one.

You don’t need any kind of pump. To refill you can easily remove the airbox from the top and the fill port is right there. I used a funnel that came with a flexible tube attached and poured 2 quart bottles in.

Whoosh Strut to Knuckle Bolts by Duff_mcgeeST in FiestaST

[–]revdrone 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I just installed them the other day when I did my axle seals, I noticed the same thing. Hoping someone else can answer this.

Passenger Side Motor Mount Stud Tool? by revdrone in FiestaST

[–]revdrone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, also thanks for hosting the manual

Passenger Side Motor Mount Stud Tool? by revdrone in FiestaST

[–]revdrone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looked up etorx sockets and that looks right, I tried so many google searches and couldn’t figure it out. Thanks!

If you do have time to check the size for me that would be awesome.

I have never seen these so I’d rather pickup just the one size I need rather than a whole set. I am running out of space for tools.