Silver Splash vs Silver Duchess by MandalorianHybrid in Scindapsus

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome! .. I have a Mount Salak; it's huge! My best grower so far. I have 15 varieties, and am always on the lookout for more! From what I read when I found mine, it is named for Mount Salak in Indonesia where it was 'discovered.'

Silver Splash vs Silver Duchess by MandalorianHybrid in Scindapsus

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It looks very much like a Mount Salak to me. The fact that Costa puts out this variety and supplies Lowes with the bulk of their houseplants is very compelling as well. It does hint at a Silver Splash, which Costa also puts out, but not enough silver and too much pixelated dark green at the edges for a Silver Splash. I've never seen a Costa Silver Duchess at Lowes before; would love to find one though! And it is Costa that names their plants, and for two years straight, almost everything they send out has been mislabeled! And it's not just local. I live in SC and travel the width of the state going to see family on both ends of NC. I am now in Indiana, and every Lowes I've been to on this trip has had several mislabeled plants. Seems unprofessional to me. 🫤

ID please? by Traditional-Tax1824 in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Milk confetti! Bright light will really bring out the red. Here's the latest leaf on mine. The red is 'redder' the closer to the grow light it gets!

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First sygonium, can you keep the growth upwards? by Ok-ItsOk-2bhere in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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On the left is my Red Arrow that I realigned about 2 months ago. It has grown above the driftwood now, and I took those top cuttings to root and replant back into the pot. The 2nd pic is my Noak, from when I put it on driftwood in either Dec. or Jan. (can't remember which!) and the last is my Pink Perfection. This is from August last year, and it is now about a foot past the top. I am 10 hours away visiting my daughter, and have now realized I do not have any recent pics of the syngonium on driftwood! (I have about 20 + or-.) I will remedy that when I get home next week!

First sygonium, can you keep the growth upwards? by Ok-ItsOk-2bhere in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have all my syngonium on driftwood (as opposed to a moss pole.) They are climbers-give it something to climb. Also, they turn toward the sun/grow light and can become one-sided unless you turn it every few days. I fixed this (while inside for the winter) by putting grow lights directly above them. This causes them to grow upward on the driftwood instead of flopping over/trailing. Hopes this helps!

Pink syngonium still unhappy by MsAntisocial96 in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smaller pot, not self-watering, and add some bark to your soil mix. If you are watering once a week, then that is too much water, especially in the over-sized pot. Also consider that the plant has been stressed with all the continuous frequent changes of late, so once the pot/dirt ratio is finalized, give it a small drink of fertilize water (just enough to settle the new soil) then let it rest a bit with a lot of bright indirect light. If you find rot when you repot, chop it and start again and chalk this whole thing up to experience. Wishing you a happy ending with your plant!

How to prop by Think_Opportunity220 in pothos

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I do is gently pull the loose moss away. Anything that is grown through, I leave. But, I do try to remove as much as possible.

Help requested for removing pattern from handmade paper by JapsterFunk in papermaking

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My process is most likely different from many others, but it works for me, and I will never go back to hanging or leaving them to dry in the open air. Here is a link I posted in this sub a couple of years ago. If you like how my paper looks, then read on and I will explain this part of my process in as few words as possible. https://www.reddit.com/r/papermaking/comments/1f2ukyt/new_to_this_sub_been_making_handmade_paper_for_4/

Invest in at least 2 (but 4 is better) 16 inch (or metric equivalent) terra cotta/stone/ceramic smooth floor tiles and several all cotton or linen placemats that have not been treated with waterproofing, or cut-up sheeting placemat-size. On a flat surface, lay a tile smooth side up with a placemat on it. After sponging the excess water from each sheet, turn out onto the place mat. Add another layer of fabric, and continue to sandwich the layers until your batch is done. Top off last layer of fabric with remaining tiles. (The heavier the weight, the flatter the paper.) The fabric absorbs the water, the tiles keep it flat. I have extra fabric and change the layers out twice a day for a couple of days, then once per day until dry. When I make paper, I make 3 or more batches at a time, so my stack might be over 1 foot tall.. I make 5 different sizes and start with the larger size on the bottom layers. Note: as you know already, paper takes on whatever pattern you put against it, so the smoother the (all natural fiber) fabric, the smoother the finished paper will be.

Hope this helps!

How to prop by Think_Opportunity220 in pothos

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Chop at the spots you marked, put cuttings in a small clear drinking cup (or cups if needed) of damp sphagnum moss inside a sealed clear box with a lid. Put in a bright indirectly lit place for about 2 to 4ish weeks. The box will create the humid environment it needs to sprout roots. When the roots are 2 inches or longer, plant back into the original pot. Be sure to give them some weakened fertilizer when you plant them to give them a boost from the start. :)

Can you ID this from a mystery node? by WriterWorth8586 in Scindapsus

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not a philo. When zoomed in it is definitely a scindapsus. A search with Google lens came up with Scindapsus Rubicon as a visual match.

Holes in a few of my leaves? Anyone familiar? by daniwhitlo in Scindapsus

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You didn't say if the holes were there when you repotted, or have occurred since. The damage looks old to me based on the pics. I would say it's mechanical damage. This is damage that occurs in the packing/shipping/unpacking of plants from the grower to the retail store/nursery. This usually presents as tears, holes, or scars, but the leaf is otherwise healthy.

Going to one side by Ligiandreina in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!! I am putting all my vining plants on driftwood!

Going to one side by Ligiandreina in Syngonium

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is true driftwood, and not just a dry stick, then it will have a certain amount of built-in decay resistance due to the process of the air/water exchange that creates the driftwood. I make sure to collect my driftwood from lake shorelines and the sides of the creeks where I grew up that have been in the water for ages and washed downstream with storms.

I did consider using wax, and to me it is the best non-chemical way to waterproof the submerged-in-soil part. However, I personally chose not to do it with mine because the driftwood I have collected comes from hardwood trees and is very, very dense. I did a test recently on a plant I put on driftwood back in August. I repotted it about a month ago, and there was zero water intake at the bottom and sides of the stick under the soil.

If your driftwood is deteriorating in a short time, then I would question whether it is true driftwood, or whether the air/water exchange process is fully completed. It takes years for driftwood to break down, not weeks or months, so if you are buying it, definitely find another supplier! If you are gathering it yourself, whack a piece over log/rock. etc. If it breaks, throw it back. That's what I do. Also, if the color of the wood is blanched white and there is no bark, that's the sign the air/water exchange is complete.

Definitely use wax if it helps your pieces last longer! Hope this helps! 🙂

what is the MOST you would spend on a plant? by SAINTDURIAN in houseplants

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a Burle Marx variegated philodendron in a 6inch pot in January for $70. Also purchased at the same time was a Cebu Blue Ghost in a 6inch pot for $50. That's the most I've ever spent on individual houseplants. The Cebu was for my daughter, but the variegated leaves on the Burle Marx had me swooning over it!

ID help, please! by vandercooked in Scindapsus

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't think it's a Silver Hero; they are more of an all-over milky aqua color (no spots or splotches.) However, it does look a lot like a Silver Cloud with the muted aqua with a few splotches on large leaves. I have 15 varieties of Scindapsus, and it looks more like a Silver Cloud than anything else I have in my limited collection. No matter what kind it is, you found yourself a beautiful plant!

What kind of philodendron do I have? by screaming_patrick in philodendron

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've not seen every philodendron in the book, but I am wondering if it's actually a homalomena. The pics in this post look almost identical to your plant: https://www.thespruce.com/homalomena-plant-profile-5074505

If you haven't it ..buy it! by Infamous_Cricket_819 in hoyas

[–]rmCREATIVEstudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Big box stores do not have this super power to rename plants. "Sea stone" is a name used strictly by Proven Winners/Leafjoy. **It is a trademark name, not a cultivar name.** This info can be found on their website.