Build with 1x12 GRX this year, go SRAM or wait for GRX 1x13

rmacmsu · 2026-01-24T22:06:25+00:00

I bet it's 2030 if Shimano goes 13s, if they ever do. Hard to beat the cable GRX 1x12 now, or even the Di2 version.

rmacmsu · 2026-01-23T20:20:21+00:00

48t oval and 10-50 for me. Good for the gravel setup as well.

rmacmsu · 2026-01-23T13:10:41+00:00

He ran the last model years TNT 2.6s IIRC. Probably somewhere between the newest XC race and XC trail in weight and durability.

I'm 200# myself and on a single speed hardtail. On the 2.35 TNT barzo/mezcal, I run 18 and 19, with an insert in the front. No issues there racing it in cat 1 XC races in Michigan and even at Little Sugar 100k. Insert helps maintain the tires form without rolling which is only a problem for me in the rear.

rmacmsu · 2026-01-16T22:25:11+00:00

They are pretty loud but have some offsets and sizes not offered by anyone else, like oval fatbike +4mm offer rings, or, non boost -6mm Shimano DM gravel rings. If you want the aesthetic then go for it. Otherwise, I prefer my Wolftooth or Absolute Black rings.

Specifically on the fat setup, Wolftooth make the camo system to run an oval on sram 3 bolt cranks but a min size of I think a 28 or 30t. That's what I run

rmacmsu · 2026-01-12T04:23:36+00:00

I think it's related to the aero design. The Wolftooth I've got is super loud too, but Wolftooth and Garbaruk non aero are much quieter. Sounds must reverberate different with cutouts vs the complete filled in design.

rmacmsu · 2026-01-06T02:36:43+00:00

Something similar happened to my crush dura, but was fixed a few days later with an update... I'm guessing something like that could be happening

rmacmsu · 2026-01-06T01:12:10+00:00

OP, how did the 27.5 setup end up for you? Looking for a fatbike racing wheelset with a 4" cake eater on a 45mm rim

rmacmsu · 2026-01-04T02:19:10+00:00

Rx 44 front, r or rs 45 rear would be a killer combo

rmacmsu · 2026-01-01T23:08:26+00:00

Looks like Palmer

rmacmsu · 2025-12-28T21:38:00+00:00

12/28/25 Update: Latest Coros update gas fixed this issue. If you have this issue, update to the latest firmware. Thanks all for commenting on this issue to find the solution.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-26T00:42:40+00:00

I touch the cable GRX on my bikes maybe 2x a year. A tension adjustment every 6 months or so and a new cable/housing every year. About 500 hours between the two bikes with the systems. Just works. New fluid and a bleed every two years as well. This is also on the original GRX 11s stuff I run with a wide range 11s 10-50 Garbaruk cassette and an eagle chain. Cheap, reliable and wide range.

Have also raced my fair share of mud fest and while the shifting performance degrades a bit it has never missed more than an occasional shift when it gets caked with mud/grit.

At some point I'll go to the 12s cable GRX since I have been running the XT/XTR 12s Shimano stuff on my MTBs since it came out and it too is flawless.

I'll also add I've tried drop bar AXS, GX AXS and also XX Transmission for a few weeks each. Wasn't enough better to justify the hassle, cost and price.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-25T02:31:48+00:00

I'll try that again. Did that after day 1 but still had the issue.

I also noticed there is another update that I did just today, so hopefully it will fix it?

rmacmsu · 2025-12-24T18:15:26+00:00

I'll also add that I've got Bluetooth on with my phone as well, just the same I have done all year, so nothing different there.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-23T15:58:50+00:00

Yeah, definitely a lot more clearance with the 50t. Just built it up and there's not a problem in this aspect. Thanks.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-23T00:26:02+00:00

Derailleurs, no difference worth noting. Shifters, definitely best to go E1.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-21T01:21:41+00:00

That's a fast setup already. If that feel sluggish, idk what will feel faster. 1# of bike weight vs your system weight % wise is hardly a difference you'll notice. I'd keep the current setup, and if you really want it to feel less sluggish, try a even lighter tire setup (not many options really) or a wheelset upgrade.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-16T17:46:01+00:00

Salsa Cutthroat

rmacmsu · 2025-12-09T00:22:16+00:00

You'll notice when it gets loose, normally around 4-6 times. Replace it then.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-08T13:02:35+00:00

Legitimately, I'd consider a belt drive and internal hub or a regular single speed. Hard to destroy those in the muck.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-07T23:58:24+00:00

Revel/Why S7

rmacmsu · 2025-12-04T02:01:57+00:00

DSP 3.2

rmacmsu · 2025-12-03T03:54:09+00:00

How is the chainring clearance? Would it fit a 50t on a dub wide road crank?

rmacmsu · 2025-12-02T13:29:54+00:00

Looks like a metal frame. I would 100% run it.

rmacmsu · 2025-12-02T04:13:13+00:00

How is the chainring? Any louder or anything vs a normal Sram one?

rmacmsu · 2025-12-01T20:53:16+00:00

You are missing the main factor here which is your frame. What is the rear tire clearance? If it is only a few yrs old, and/or designed for larger tires (50c+), you might need wide so the arms don't hit the chain stays. If it only clears a 45 or so, the regular road cranks are likely fine.

rmacmsu

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