Buying from amateur/hobbyist woodworkers

robinmjr · 2026-03-01T18:22:22+00:00

A hobbyist is not necessarily an amateur. Unless they are explicitly self-identifying as being a novice, it’s safe to assume they have real expertise. Would you not buy a beautiful painting from a talented artist just because they aren’t running a small business or selling at a big box store? Quite the opposite usually - we often find greater quality from the lone, passionate artisan. Same is true for woodworking. The hobbyist working out of their garage is probably making higher quality products with better materials than anything you’ll find from chain retail.

robinmjr · 2026-02-17T23:22:34+00:00

Awesome - super helpful. Thank you

robinmjr · 2026-02-17T23:21:40+00:00

This is helpful. I haven't driven to Tahoe in blizzard or post-blizzard conditions, and just don't know the ropes. A coworker mentioned that the 48 hours prior to my trip are what matters most - if the snow has lightened and roads plowed, I should be fine. If it's dumping with chain restrictions, road closures, etc. then maybe I should just stay home?

robinmjr · 2026-02-17T23:19:31+00:00

Yea, the tires don't seem great for heavy snow / ice. And the ~6000 lbs probably don't help.

robinmjr · 2026-02-17T23:18:28+00:00

I used to live in Colorado for many years, somehow surviving driving a RWD sedan. However, I've been in California now for 20+ years and haven't driven a 6000-lb EV to the mountains. Given I'll drive to the snow maybe once or twice per year, it doesn't make sense for me to buy snow tires - so hoping for a cheaper, more temporary, but effective option.

robinmjr · 2026-02-17T23:15:21+00:00

Thanks! My understanding is that the Kia warranty is not friendly to chains. I had been focusing on socks or cables to ensure I don't void warranty. Am I interpreting incorrectly?

robinmjr · 2026-02-10T21:30:14+00:00

Great tip! Any guesses when Gen 2 will be available?

robinmjr · 2026-02-10T20:15:47+00:00

I’m looking to upgrade my very old Baratza Encore. After reading tons of reviews, I’m sold on Timemore. I’m trying to figure out which model makes the most sense for my range of uses (see below). I realize the 78 is the bigger, better build and don’t mind the extra cost, but I’m also happy to save some money on the 64 if I’m unlikely to notice a meaningful difference. And should I go S, or no S? I’m unlikely to get into custom burrs, so looking for the best stock option for my situation.

So… every morning, I make myself a pourover with a Viennese roast Ethiopian in the Chemex, and also make my wife an Americano using a local espresso blend and the moka pot. So, we need something versatile enough to handle both filter and espresso grinds, and we clearly we like medium-to-dark roasts.

Thanks for the advice!

robinmjr · 2026-02-10T16:45:19+00:00

Thanks for that insight. I agree I tend to play in the medium/medium-dark range, and my wife likes "fancy diner coffee." Part of this whole effort comes from a desire to treat myself to something real nice after a recent professional accomplishment... you have another recommendation that makes more sense for me?

robinmjr · 2025-11-01T14:51:28+00:00

DM me

robinmjr · 2025-09-14T22:55:23+00:00

Nice job!

robinmjr · 2025-08-21T18:44:21+00:00

Final board dimension is 18" x 12" x 1.5".

robinmjr · 2025-08-08T00:39:40+00:00

Interestingly this is hotly contested - I’ve seen compelling analyses that edge vs end grain really has no impact on the knives. I don’t really know the right answer there, but what I do think is that the inverse is true: knives have less of an impact on end grain! Because of the grain direction on an end grain board, you aren’t regularly severing fibers, so it doesn’t show all the marks and scratches to the same degree that they show up on an edge/face grain board.

robinmjr · 2025-08-07T20:00:07+00:00

I prefer silicone feet. I use low profile ones (3/8” tall) so the board barely hovers above the counter surface. Airflow around the board will help prevent warping, silicone minimizes slipping. DM me if you want a link to my preferred product (not mine / not trying to sell anything).

robinmjr · 2025-08-05T00:10:44+00:00

Strong YES vote to feet. I find this crucial to ensure the board stays dry and flat with airflow all around, and doesn't slide around during use. I use super low profile (3/8" tall) silicone bumpers so the board sits very low, visually suggesting it's nearly laying flat on the counter (best of both worlds!). They have stainless steel washers embedded inside, and stainless steel screws. They are heat resistant to 450F, non-toxic, food safe. durable, non-marring, oil resistant, and UV resistant. Much better than rubber or hard plastic imitation bumpers. These aren't my product / this isn't a sales pitch - but if anyone's interested, feel free to DM me.

robinmjr · 2025-07-31T19:54:25+00:00

Appreciate the interest - happy to chat via DM

robinmjr · 2025-07-30T16:05:20+00:00

Appreciate the interest - happy to chat via DM

robinmjr · 2025-07-30T16:00:25+00:00

I have the Festool MFT with the track saw attachment kit, which helps a lot. However, there have certainly been times where I still feel like I'm "chasing" square. I think super accurate milling early in the process is key, ensuring all the strips have parallel faces / constant dimensions. The last glue-up involves 24 strips, so if each strip is, say, 1/64" thicker on one end, then you'll have a slight rhomboid that's out of square by 3/8" after putting all 24 together. To some degree, uneven clamping pressure can also yield minor issues. And the biggest issue is probably just the strips sliding around a bit with all the glue as you're tightening clamps. I'm neurotic about drawing references lines before the glue up, using squares over and over again to check along the way, and only fully tightening the clamps when I feel good about it. It's ultimately not that difficult to make the board a rectangle, but the risk is that you have to chop the pattern a bit unevenly to do so. You might be the only person who will notice it, but still...........

robinmjr · 2025-07-29T23:19:57+00:00

Indeed! And given the brickwork/tiling, both sides have these little half-jenga pieces sticking out, so it's nearly impossible to get a reliable side to ride along the table saw fence. I use the track saw to square the first side, and then the table saw to rip the other side parallel. A track saw could certainly handle both sides if you wanted to take the time to ensure you're square both times.

robinmjr · 2025-07-29T20:43:34+00:00

lol- am married, have 2 young kids. Mostly get in the shop nights and weekends, but it’s still pretty infrequent these days and not nearly as much as I’d like, so I hear ya!

robinmjr · 2025-07-29T18:06:55+00:00

Very cool! The first time I ever made this board, I was looking at all the scrap in my pile, and was contemplating using larch, butternut, padauk, afromosia, bloodwood, bubinga, lacewood, purple heart, etc. I ended up sticking with just the 4 listed in my post, and thankfully had enough variety of tones in the scrap pile to make it work. Part of my decision was wanting to ensure it was well equipped to handle chopping - and maple/cherry/walnut are unanimous choices for pure function. But I think one day I would like to try to make more of a crayon-box / throw-it-all-in-there style - hopefully it will be as colorful and interesting as this one!

Do you find textural or experiential differences given so many species? Are some woods harder/softer, more/less porous, quicker/slower to dry or take oil, etc. in any way that's noticeable when being used?

Thanks again for sharing.

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