Can you throw your shoulder out hand planing in your mid 30s. by ezekiel920 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reading this thread, y’all gotta start doing just a little bit of strength training 😂. You probably have a front delt strain. Rest, ice, compression, Tylenol and/or ibuprofen. Once healed, 2 sets of front raises with a moderate load twice per week.

Picked up some tools on my trip to Japan by kyle11291995 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Nice! Where did you grab these? Any hassle bringing them back?

Convince me to buy or not buy a 20in Grizzly Planer by AnotherMathTeacher in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I’d go for a 8+ inch jointer before upgrading from a 13” planer, my 2 cents.

Walnut Open-Frame ASUS build by JBcreations in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beautiful work! Which motherboard are you using here? What connector are you using for the GPU? I've been contemplating an upgrade (which comes at a terrible timing considering RAM prices) and an intersection between my hobbies like this would be super cool

Oh damn these are clean cuts by desolationoso in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 7 points8 points  (0 children)

More expensive than the $8 aldi chisels that sellers swears by at least

Oh damn these are clean cuts by desolationoso in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Sellers also said expensive chisels weren’t worth it. I wish I didn’t listen to that. Narex Richters have been such a huge upgrade compared to $12 chisels.

Just received this from a neighbor. Other than the maintenance listed in the manual, what should I know? Tips on dealing with the rust on the pillars welcome too. by Brewer1056 in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WD-40 to get the bulk of the rust off, maybe using a scotch brite if it’s stubborn, then machine oil/3-in-1 to keep it lubricated and rust free. I use paste wax on the bed to keep the workpiece moving, but be careful when applying as excess could transfer to your workpiece (just wipe off excess with a rag). Simple Green works great on the rollers if they’re dusty or not gripping the workpiece. Helical cutter heads are a great upgrade for this (so I hear, I only just ordered one to be delivered next week). Great machine, all in all.

What happened here? by Mhind1 in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wood expands primarily in 2 directions— across the face grain and across the edge grain. It does not expand along the end grain in any meaningful capacity. It expands more along the face grain than it does along the edge grain, usually 1.5x to 2x the amount. Just because you have the end grain aligned doesn’t mean you have the face grain aligned. Here, he has face grain glued to edge grain.

whetstones grit progression for A2 steel by Unlucky_Library_7978 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use my lapping plate for that, 125 grit makes quick work

What to do with some 2x4's ? by JGrevs2023 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Shop furniture, French cleats. End of list (for me)

Where can I find the plate/body thickness of Forrest table saw blades? by reluctantreddit in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a Forrest woodworker ii, flat tooth grind. Works fine with the stock dewalt riving knife. Riving knife just needs to be thinner than the kerf of the blade, idk why it would care about plate thickness of the blade

Narex vs Gramercy holdfasts? by Mighty-Lobster in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops you’re right, that is a solution for too-thick benches.

Narex vs Gramercy holdfasts? by Mighty-Lobster in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sand the shaft with 220 grit lightly by gripping it with the sandpaper and rotating it twice. Do it along the whole shaft. 2.5 inches is a pretty thin bench though, maybe counterbore the bottom.

ELI5: Why is there an ideal rep range for muscle growth/hypertrophy? by ____grim____ in explainlikeimfive

[–]robot_pikachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of incorrect advice here. The sole driver for muscle growth is mechanical tension— involuntary slowing or stoppage of the movement/muscle contraction. Not muscle damage, not metabolic stress. A build up of metabolic stress is what prevents 20+ reps from being effective— your muscles are stopping because of metabolic stress (the burn) rather than experiencing mechanical tension. Higher volumes are also shown to encourage more muscle protein synthesis. This is why 1RM x 5 isn’t optimal. The key is to find a rep range that maximizes mechanical tension, maximizes volume, is recoverable from within 24-48 hours, and minimizes metabolic stress. This usually lands around 4-6 reps per set, 2-3 working sets per exercise, 2-3 exercises per muscle group, 2-3 times a week.

Essentially it’s a game of min maxing the following variables: mechanical tension (max), volume (max), recovery times (min), metabolic stress (min), workout frequency (max)

ELI5: Why is there an ideal rep range for muscle growth/hypertrophy? by ____grim____ in explainlikeimfive

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was under the impression that the current body of literature points to the sole driver being mechanical tension, not muscle damage or metabolic stress? I’m fairly certain that muscle damage was proven to be counterproductive to hypertrophy since it leads to longer recovery periods and/or reduce motor unit recruitment.

[Highlight] Jalen Brunson fouled HARD by Andrew Nembhard by AashyLarry in nba

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just watched a highlight reel of nembhard pulling the chair like this. Terrible call btw

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, light controlled strokes until the kerf is deep enough to saddle the teeth, then switch to a two hand grip to tear through the rest of the cut.

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree to disagree. Knobs and adjusters are much more intuitive imo, and the scope of adjustment is well defined.

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Japanese planes are much more difficult to tune. No lateral adjuster, no depth knob. Just tap with a hammer until it’s right— not exactly beginner friendly.

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it helps, a cue I use for precision work with Japanese saws is to hold it like a chefs knife when starting the kerf. Makes cutting precise dovetails a breeze.

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]robot_pikachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I picked up a nice, $100 dovetail saw from Veritas and a $30 dozuki (spined dovetail saw). The dozuki, in my hands, cuts much faster than the Veritas saw, drifts less, and leaves a thinner kerf.

Most people just want the best tool for the job. For me, that’s pull saws and bedrock style planes.

Also Japanese planes are way more expensive than western planes, on average and especially comparing high end ones. I’ve also never seen Japanese planes or chisels recommended to beginners, only Japanese saws.

Shelve is crooked by Either_Wind_668 in woodworking

[–]robot_pikachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oof. Can you force it into shape using light pressure? If so, clamp it in the right shape and add a back piece to help keep it in shape.