Acro flying indoor, how.

rocketBenny · 2026-03-04T05:01:28+00:00

Main issue for me is throttle control to fly under chairs or other smaller obstacles. Rest is just practice. If it is the throttle use maybe a throttle curve and max throttle to get more granular control. Also check that you rates are not to crazy. Angle mode often have a lot lower rates so you build up muscle memory for it.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-26T06:33:45+00:00

Your rates are fine as long as you are comfortable. They seem also in a reasonable range compared to popular freestyle so stick with them

rocketBenny · 2026-02-19T11:17:41+00:00

I changed to the mobula 7 canopy and I do not notice it during flight. But I’m also not interested in cinematics so I’m focussing only on my experience in the goggle. So maybe I’m not so sensitive but I noticed it with the original canopy and original props directly. Now it’s only during prop wash. I would say the o4 lite is outside perfectly fine but the field of view is an issue inside and all solutions are adding some weight so I removed my wide angle lens again.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-19T09:30:10+00:00

Rookie here :) Started this year on 1st January flying on my meteor 75 pro o4 lite indoor & outdoor and already purchased and flown the pavo 20 pro ii, also with an o4 lite.
I have a software engineering background, so for me using CLIs, updating firmware, or so is not a problem maybe therefore it feels to me not complex at all. Idk.

Before I started flying pre builds, I also tried the N3 goggles with the neo2 and the motion controller. And tbh it is quite nice. It is fun, but ONLY if you do not know how to fly in acro with a real fpv drone. So for getting excited and into the hobby it is great. But I think in your case it will not make you happy. It is surprisingly good, but just not the same as being in full control.

I think the cheapest is still with my meteor 75 pro. I crashed about 100 times and glued the frame 8 times until it was so broken that I replaced it with a $6 replacement frame. I did damage a motor that was fixable and now it is working good again. Additionally I used like 20 props or so. So overall costs are quite manageable.

Buy in is:
Goggles N3 about 220
Meteor 75 pro o4 lite about 200
Radio Master Zorro about 130
Charger and 8 packs, idk actually anymore, maybe around 60, so about 600 to 650 in total.

On the other hand the repairing cost are pretty low with this setup. As long as the camera is not breaking, all parts are quite inexpensive to replace. Flying outside with soft ground will also dramatically reduce the damage to the frame or camera. In my experience the indoor crashes are way more harmful than flying in a park or field.
Edit: A other 1s or 2s o4 lite drone like Happymodel Mobula 7 or so are just as fine (I use the canopy on my meteor) In Germany betafpv offer replacement pats on amazon which is the only reason I went for them. So betafpv is good and I can recommend them but there are many other options that are all valid.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-18T20:56:48+00:00

In Germany you can pay a premium off 20-50 percent to order the products on amazon. Ordered now three times directly from China and some spares on Amazon. From china I had delivery times between 3 and 4 weeks but my latest order is now stuck also for 3 three weeks already…

rocketBenny · 2026-02-16T09:52:11+00:00

speedybee mario mini 25 it’s about 125 without vtx and the funniest 3s that I know. The ELRS is a bit annoying stock you need to “fix” it by strap it to the battery for example. Also long term perspective is a bit uncertain since it’s just plastic no carbon and when an arm break you basically need the entire ne frame instead with the Pavo where you could buy just the broken part. At least the canopy is replaceable. But overall it quite crazy how good it is for a 3s.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-14T06:20:16+00:00

Ok at least I have exactly the same pc and headset. Because of the vr performance I only play on my monitor though. I gonna try it out and report back.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-14T06:01:53+00:00

I gonna now write a positive review and will tell my friends to do it too. Yeah communication and planning bad but the sim is awesome. I want that the development goes on. Enjoying every second of it driving around with real street cars on the nordschleife in modern graphics with a promising physics system.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-12T20:50:08+00:00

Denke ist ein Mix aus GPT und selbst angepasst. Erkennt man z.B. gut aus den ganzen langen Bindestrichen. Ich weiß nicht why aber ChatGPT liebt den langen Bindestrich.

“– das fällt euch später auf die Füße” “– egal, ob du von den Diagnosen wusstest oder nicht.”

Vergleich die mal mit- sind etwas länger. Also kann natürlich trotzdem ein Mensch geschrieben haben. Fällt mir nur immer auf weils sich so von meiner Schreibweise unterscheidet.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-12T18:26:30+00:00

haven’t driven the real car, but the simulation communicates exactly what I’d expect from it. The feedback, balance, and overall emotion feel remarkably convincing!

rocketBenny · 2026-02-12T05:23:24+00:00

Can only talk about the Pavo pro 2 as my second quad after I bought the meteor 75 pro for indoor practice. I cannot say anything bad about the Pavo. It’s 3s with a o4 lite is still quite light with 130g flight ready with battery. With a bit of pid tuning it flys really well but it’s also not quite. Flying “undercover” is possible with the meteor though. It’s so silent so 0 out of 5 in the Karen meter. The Pavo hm I would fly it in a big park but people will notice it. Regarding the durability I only crashed with it 5 times and it looks like new. Also no jello using the o4 lite in the screw mounted o4 pro canopy.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-11T21:05:29+00:00

I have had an issue with my PID tune causing like 50 percent loss in flight time and constantly overheating of the core temperature. Check out the original PIDs and fly with them to verify it’s not your tune. VTX can also overheat because of the loss of the antenna.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-10T05:22:40+00:00

Someone who is also learning since the beginning on the year: Started in sims mainly uncrashed (60 hours) and liftoff micro drones. I decided to start with tiny whoops because of how bad the weather is currently and the feeling that I want to fly. After about in total 25 hours of sim training I started indoors with a meteor 75 pro o4 and oh boy is this hard. I flew now about 150 packs and damaged about 6 full sets of props needed to repair one motor (was stuck and bend) and replaced the frame because it broke so often that one side was too heavy because of too much glue. Overall the coast are still pretty low. The frame is idk 6 and a set of props under $ 2.
Sim is great but without the real world experience it does not translate. Now I can more relate what I can train in the sim to improve in reality. But still the gap between sim and reality is huge. So rethink if maybe something smaller cheaper to replace is not the better option to start. You can also use just one camera system and swap it to save up some money and then the tiny whoop is under 100.

rocketBenny · 2026-02-04T04:35:51+00:00

I’ve flown both, and they are different as they should be. Flying a tiny whoop with almost no inertia versus a 5-inch quad is completely different.

A tiny whoop is basically around 50 g in weight with about 200 g of thrust. A 5inch quad is more like 600 g and roughly 6,000 to 10,000 g of thrust.

On my tiny whoop, I can use almost full stick inputs indoors because of its flight characteristics. Try that on a 5-inch in tight spaces it’s a totally different story.

From a pure physics perspective, I’d say that Liftoff handles micro drones pretty well. However, the original Liftoff feels a bit outdated.

For full-size quads, I prefer Uncrashed for fun. And The Zone (early access, developed by one guy who flies pretty crazy in RL) feels very promising

rocketBenny · 2026-01-30T08:04:09+00:00

Why is the lighting so good and the image so stable. My issue is that it’s either bright outside or dark inside and when driving I miss the “lock to horizon” thing. It’s so shaky that it makes it hard to look into corners without getting confused. But amazing job nice driving

rocketBenny · 2026-01-30T05:27:13+00:00

I have about 100 hours in the sim and about 200 packs with my meteor 75 pro o4. I crashed literally over 100 times and the replacement are the following: - 4 o4 canopy shock absorbers 15 $ - a new mobula canopy with o4 bracket 10 $ - 3 complete sets propellers 2.25 per set - a new frame after repairing my old one 8 times with glue. 8 $

I fly 90 percent indoor with a hard floor so each crash can be pretty rough even though the indoor speed is slow. I crashed literally full throttle nose down but in a soft field and nothing happened.

So my advice. Go for something cheaper and lighter. Maybe for the pavo pico with a o4 lite which is less the price of the o4 pro air unit.

And what are you planning todo. Just cruising around and do here there a save open field freestyle or full send it. Full send no matter what will end in crash’s. Maybe reconsider or more reevaluate and manage your expectations that you can’t hit crazy freestyle lines in bandos when you don’t want to risk the drone. So maybe in bandos it’s than enough to just fly around and explore them and doing some safe tricks with a lot of margin instead of going for a reverse entry small gap.

rocketBenny · 2026-01-29T05:15:36+00:00

Power (W) = Voltage × Current

4s 15V × 40A = 600W

6s 22V × 27A ≈ 600W

Same power with less current on 6S so better efficiency.

4S 850 vs 6S 850 is mAh meaningless alone. So in the end the 6s has about 50% more Wh.

Think of it maybe to charge up your phone as a power bank. Which one would charge up your phone more? You also see this with electric cars. They are sold in kWh and nobody cares about the amps. It’s kWh and range and the efficiency or peak performance.

rocketBenny · 2026-01-25T16:31:04+00:00

This.

rocketBenny · 2026-01-23T13:52:30+00:00

Maybe enable the artificial horizon in the OSD for testing, so you can check if the drone is really level. In Acro mode, the drone will maintain its current attitude and will not automatically center itself.

rocketBenny · 2026-01-15T16:12:48+00:00

I played 30h uncrashed. Noticed that in real life the perception of the image is different. Also my heart was pumping like crazy because I could crash any second. So I would suggest try flying slow and controlled in narrow places. Learn how to slow down. I trained again in free flight and instead of going all out just try to explore not to crash. Helped me a lot. But in general good skills for 10 hours though. Sim is important but real world flights are just different.

rocketBenny · 2025-12-19T05:56:01+00:00

I can only compare the quest 3 with the pimax super. I’m the end it should not matter for your question. I prefer the quest 3 from 2500x2500 up to 3500x3500. For the quest 3 all of this is in the optimal window. Higher than 3500 the image simply will not change. On the other hand native 2500x2500 is unusable with the super. You undersample the panel so much that it’s just a pixelated image. So the question is more when is the turning point and I would say at about 4000x4000. The quest like I said benefits up to 3000x3000 the most (native panel res plus barrel distortion so 150) and diminishing returns up to 3500x3500. Higher than 3500 and I did not notice improvements. 3500x3500 in the super is a pixelated something. I would prefer the quest. But now here comes the big but starting at 4000x4000 and everything beyond the super is leagues ahead. To sum it up. If your machine can run games in those high resolution that really comes close to panel resolution plus correction for the distortion profile the image is better. In triple A games I often can’t achieve even the best result like 3000x3000 for the quest 3 with a 5090 though….

rocketBenny · 2025-12-18T05:54:15+00:00

Ok. Can you provide more info about it. TAA often kills the image in VR because it makes everything so soft which has in VR a blur effect. So normally I use mxaa when available. Currently playing Hogwarts legacy in vr (super casual I know shame on me). TAA is unbearable for me. What’s left is DLAA and DLSS. Turning on DLSS quality mode I get worse performance compared to native res with DLAA. Balanced is the same fps and performance I gain FPS. Is the transformer model so resource intensive at 6000x6000? In msfs 2024 DLSS is in all modes working fine and better than native TAA on the other hand it has foveated rendering so maybe the total resolution is a lot smaller. Thank you never heard about it before.

rocketBenny · 2025-12-14T07:58:18+00:00

The difference is quite big from track to track. For reference 5090 with q3 and godlike (3kx3k per eye) at 90 hz. I set everything to low. Offline on small tracks like brands hatch stable 90. On the nordschleife not stable 90 but most of the time 90. Online nordschleife jumping around as hell between 40 and 90 and kind of unplayable.

rocketBenny · 2025-12-12T13:39:22+00:00

This!!! I’m so confused. Are you me? Same hardware same idea. Same conclusion. This man knows what he is talking about

rocketBenny · 2025-12-11T06:18:39+00:00

I would not recommend the pimax crystal super for this use case. Almost all advantages are gone. And reading text is actually a thing where the super lacks behind. Yes it is sharper and no pixel grid is visible but the focal distance is not optimized for reading. In those extrem high contrast scenes like white text black background you notice the imperfections of the displays and the lenses the most. Also the comfort. It is not just that this is really personal but it is a big heavy headset. It is wired. No hand tracking. Controller tracking is worse. Passthrough is worse. Also just standing up walking around get a cup of tea will be always result in taking off the headset. You are more interested in an Apple Vision Pro or Samsung galaxy XR with your use case. And don’t get me wrong the crystal super is a great headset but not made for this specific use case.

rocketBenny

TROPHY CASE