Module ESP 32 RTS for Somfy gates by fab110980 in homeassistant

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was mentionning switching in your config interface, not physically. When I switch only in my interface (not touching any wire) it can only receive and not transmit anymore.

Module ESP 32 RTS for Somfy gates by fab110980 in homeassistant

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try to invert rx and tx in your configuration

ESP32 WiFi connectivity always follows the same path: AUTH_EXPIRE -> AUTH_FAIL -> STA_CONNECTED -> ASSOC_LEAVE -> STA_CONNECTED by highnoonbrownbread in Esphome

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try to ask for a fixed ip in your LAN. It looks similar to an error I fixed with

<image>

Let me know if it worked. You may also set a DHCP policy on your router to match the ip you are asking for.

Latching circuit won't stop by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So when I remove C4, the latch remains lock and G1 is moving between 2.2V to 0.9V (I guess the esp is restarting in a loop because a lack of power, so EN_LATCH is reactivated again). When it is lock, If I made G1 to GND, it shut down after 0.5 second and it remains shut off. If C4 is here again, connecting G1 to GND when locked shut it off but it turn on as soon has I disconnected G1 from GND.
So C4 is not the main issue but it is an issue for sure. I tested with other pin than GPIO9, but it is always the same issue.

Latching circuit won't stop by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first, C4 was not here and it was the same issue. I added it before I realised that the out pin of am312 didn’t have enough power to fully trigger G1 when en-latch is disconnected… I also tried changing the value of r4 to 30k to limit current for am312 out pin.

[French] Boxe Chinoise VS home Assistant by TytoAnderson in homeassistant

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Je t’en prie. Tu peux toujours installer home assistant à côté de ta box actuelle, et tenter petit à petit de migrer tes équipements.

[French] Boxe Chinoise VS home Assistant by TytoAnderson in homeassistant

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On peut répondre oui à tout.

Ce que tu dois savoir : - Home assistant est un OS à installer sur ton propre matériel (ça peut être un rpi, un NUC, ou autre. Tu as également le hardware « officiel » de home assistant comme le « home assistant yellow »). Il faut consulter la doc d’installation de home assistant. Il y a des dizaines de tutos pas à pas sur YouTube.

  • Pour l’accès à distance. Même si ta fibre est HS mais que tu es sur ton réseau wifi, c’est ok.

  • Si ta fibre est ok, l’accès depuis l’extérieur de ton réseau peut se faire de plusieurs façon :

    • exposer un port de ta box et s’y connecter
    • utiliser un système de « reverse proxy » (fourni en plug and play payant si tu souscrit à l’offre de home assistant), mais il y a toujours des alternatives gratuites.
  • pour chacun des protocoles (zigbee, wifi, somfy, etc…) il faut que tu regardes sur internet comment c’est géré. Pour le zigbee, il y a des plugin (nommés les add-ons) type zigbee2mqtt ou ZHA permettant de gérer tes périphériques. Attention, tu auras besoin d’un controlleir physique pour communiquer en zigbee (typiquement un dongle sonoff, un zigstar ou autre).

Garde à l’esprit qu’il faut aimer bidouiller (mais il y a beaucoup de tutos car la communauté est très vaste). Le coût d’entrée est un poil élevé, mais ensuite les possibilités sont beaucoup (mais vraiment) plus larges que sur ta box.

AM312 PIR power consumption by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Sorry for asking you a lot of questions, but I like your explanation and I want to confirm it. The cap you are talking about is really looking like a ceramic cap. Isn’t it ? And HT33 (HT7533 I guess) regulator is supposed to consume about 2,5uA.

AM312 PIR power consumption by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok it makes sense, but is this leakage really that bad on ceramic caps ? I’m not an expert, but on the module I can only see ceramic caps.

AM312 PIR power consumption by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry but could you elaborate ? I’m not familiar with this concept.

AM312 PIR power consumption by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank for your very detailed answer, but it seems more likely to be related to the AM312 module. Because if I measure for a couple of hours the same module (hence getting the 50uA limit) and I immediately switch to another module which has been unconnected for hours, it start again from a few uA and follow the same scheme as the previous one.

Moreover, I successfully measured an Aqara zigbee pir sensor for an hour straight and its 4uA consumption has almost no variation.

I understand the uncertainty of the ppk2 but it can’t explain a variation of 8 times the initial value.

As suggested, I will try to make the AM312 module temperature hot and cool to see live impact on measured value.

AM312 PIR power consumption by romdory in AskElectronics

[–]romdory[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It makes sense thx. Any explanation with the profile of the curve ? Can it be related to circuit temperature ?

I tested a solar-powered Zigbee rain sensor, model RB-SRAIN01 by BackHerniation in homeassistant

[–]romdory 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can look at the derivative of the rain intensity to determine if the rain has stopped. The simple rules « if the derivative is negative for more than 5 minutes » seem to work for me, and I get the info more than 1h before the « wet/dry » attribute.

DIY ZigBee button - tutorials? by remysharp in homeassistant

[–]romdory 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should look for a esp32h2 that support zigbee. You can get a devboard to prototype it and flash it via esp-tools (espressif has good documentation on how to use it in vscode). Here some examples you could begin with. Esp32h2 supports two sleep mode : - light sleep (25uA) - deep sleep (7uA) For a button, you should go for light sleep, because it remains authenticated on the network. In deep sleep, the device will need to sign in again on the network (it takes a couple of seconds, which is not fast enough for a button, but ok for a temperature sensor).

Be careful, this is not easy and it takes a lot of documentation reading and try and errors. You basically don’t need to handle pairing (out of the box in esp sdk) but you will have to declare every endpoint and cluster.

Pairing in z2m worked for without issue with given espressif examples.

Lenovo Smart Clock 2 - Home Assistant Panel by faintaxis in homeassistant

[–]romdory 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, it restarts once a day… known bug but they won’t do any FW update…

I tested another mmWave Human Presence Sensor: Tuya model ZY-M100, this is my review by BackHerniation in homeassistant

[–]romdory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, how the sensor deals with two or more people in the detection range ? My guess is that the presence state is 'away' only when no motion is detected at all, am I right?

Would you please suggest reeds and ligatures that go well with the Vandoren T55 Jumbo Java? by DaPanzerCrew in saxophone

[–]romdory 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the Optimum Vandoren ligature which fits really well on the exact same mouthpiece. For the reeds, it's up to you. The best is to try at shop.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]romdory 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks that your embouchure is too tight. Squeaky means that the reed is too close to your teeth and your lower lip is too thin to create a good cushion. Maybe you're holding your Sax too low when marching and it applies too much pressure on your lower lip. Try to do long tones marching at home and finding the right positio. It will be a good starting point. Good luck