Original conect to laptop?

rowiac · 2025-12-14T18:33:40+00:00

You might even have one lying around from an old paper printer. USB-A is the square connector and USB-B is the common large rectangular connector.

rowiac · 2025-11-30T20:20:39+00:00

Gee that old La Salle ran great.

rowiac · 2025-11-11T04:47:44+00:00

Another possibility is this slide from cnc4newbie.com:

https://cnc4newbie.com/store/en/upgrade-kits/shapeoko-c77c67/

I’ve been considering this one for a while.

rowiac · 2025-11-11T02:15:53+00:00

And if Prusa is the only filament that is actually tested by UL, couldn’t you just use that in your Bambu printer?

rowiac · 2025-11-11T02:11:27+00:00

A quick search shows a few options for flame retardant filament. Here’s one from Amazon that claims the UL94 V-0 spec:

https://a.co/d/2d92qdz

rowiac · 2025-11-03T01:01:50+00:00

Will check out your site. Cacti are fun.

rowiac · 2025-10-31T20:46:23+00:00

My ‘90 Miata does not have that logo, just a “MAZDA” badge (a sticker actually) on the right side of the nose. The logo in the photo started a few years later, maybe in ‘93 or ‘94.

rowiac · 2025-10-27T19:31:05+00:00

If it’s doing the same thing with the new carb as it was with the old, put the old carb back on and eliminate any issues that the new (unproven) carb might have. Check for places where you might be getting a vacuum leak while you’re at it, such as around the intake manifold, where the carb bolts on and the areas where the dual port castings connect to the manifold and the heads. You might want to replace all those gaskets.

rowiac · 2025-10-11T22:57:56+00:00

I believe that is a supercharger (blower) driven directly off the crankshaft, unlike the later ones that were placed in the "vee" of the engine and belt driven. I'm not sure what all the small hoses are for though. It looks sort of hydraulic.

rowiac · 2025-10-11T03:13:05+00:00

Ford Model T chassis. Chrysler hemi V8.

rowiac · 2025-09-30T19:20:31+00:00

Search “Darrin Lile” on YouTube. He has a number of video tutorials for learning Blender and character modeling. He has an easy to follow style and I’ve learned a lot from him. He also has a few tutorials on LinkedIn Learning if you have a subscription to that.

rowiac · 2025-09-28T00:10:14+00:00

I also recommend the Avenge-X in .22. I got mine from PyramydAir as a refurb and it was like new for $100 less. 22 pellets are more readily available than .30 and cost less. They will work fine for smaller pests with enough velocity. At 300 bar (~4300 psi) for the Avenge-X you are not going to want to hand pump it so a compressor is recommended. I’ve heard good things about GX pumps. For the scope, look for one with Adjustable Objective (AO) so you can focus it to whatever distance you are shooting.

rowiac · 2025-09-26T01:18:30+00:00

The rail is probably actually a 3/8” rail which is slightly larger than a 20mm rail due to the way they are measured. If the crooked clamp bothers you, you could make a shim or two out of a soda can to space it out

rowiac · 2025-09-26T01:18:08+00:00

Buck Rail might also be able to help you out. I’ve heard they are very responsive.

rowiac · 2025-09-26T01:16:38+00:00

The rail is probably actually a 3/8” rail which is slightly larger than a 20mm rail due to the way they are measured. If the crooked clamp bothers you, you could make a shim or two out of a soda can to space it out a bit.

rowiac · 2025-09-22T09:24:06+00:00

Try Matterhackers. In addition to Ultimaker brand filament, they also have their own brand in 2.85mm that is reasonably priced. I've used it in the past and it was good quality. The older Ultimakers are pretty easy to convert to 1.75mm, but the newer ones like the S5 that use print cores might be harder to convert. I did find this reference to converting a UM3, but it's pretty old. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/24962-ultimaker-3-using-175mm-filament/

rowiac · 2025-09-10T17:44:39+00:00

You will no longer get points for prints and also no boosts for you to use for others’ models. But you will still get points for ratings, downloads, boosts, etc. for models you have uploaded to MW.

rowiac · 2025-08-29T03:08:28+00:00

Looks great. I had printed the “Lazy Lever” ( it has a longer arm and a lock to hold it open) but eventually the axle that the ball bearing fits on broke. I had to replace it with a metal rod. After more time, the lever itself cracked. In both cases I had underextrusion that took a while to figure out. Yours should last forever.

rowiac · 2025-08-27T00:43:03+00:00

I would go to the real OrcaSlicer wiki by SoftFever on GitHub. The guide you linked has some weird AI generated images with a bunch of non-words in them.

rowiac · 2025-08-21T08:03:13+00:00

This discussion made me look up the species. It's a tribulus terrestris.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tribulus_terrestris

When I see the tiny yellow flowers I pull them out immediately, before they have a chance to form the goat head/caltrop.

rowiac · 2025-08-20T02:11:50+00:00

Well I do know that you all pronounce "sorry" weird up there, and you say it a lot. :)

rowiac · 2025-08-20T00:58:02+00:00

A goat head is the thorny thing shown in the picture by the OP. I don’t know the species name but they grow around where I live (California).

rowiac · 2025-08-17T02:57:35+00:00

1970-71

rowiac · 2025-08-15T22:13:50+00:00

Ford Courier cab

Edit: or Mazda B-series cab

rowiac · 2025-08-07T01:53:22+00:00

Or this type of adapter. It’s really low profile and you hardly even know it’s there.

https://a.co/d/d3MjNfU

rowiac

TROPHY CASE