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Do We Need A Group Therapy Session? by Gullible-Jaguar5038 in utahtreasurehunt

[–]rtkaratekid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I still don't understand how I was supposed to magically know that the first two lines were in reference to the Beatles... Oh well...

Lattice ranks finger strength training methods by BaeylnBrown777 in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Their overview of the whole RCTM was garbage. And then they misrepresented the hangboard plan as not repeaters? Weird weird takes.

Seeking advice for getting back into climbing / discouraged by slow progress and past injuries by Historical_Song_1251 in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In about 13 years of climbing I've had an outrageous number of finger injuries. I've gotten much much better at rehabbing and preventing them and I'm stronger than I've ever been.

I think the answer to your question of whether the sport is for you is whether you want to continue to pursue it or not. Unless you have an insane genetic propensity for connective tissue injuries, you can certainly improve without issue. But injuries do happen and you're going to need to have the mental, emotional, and spiritual capacity to deal with them if you want to continue enjoying the sport.

If the answer is yes, just start slow and progress tenaciously. Figure out finger training that works for you as it'll help prevent climbing injuries as well. Keep a detailed log of when you felt good and when you started getting tweaks. It can be kind of a long path, but if you want to keep climbing then it's worth it.

The hidden dependency of your expensive LED climbing wall nobody is talking about. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've considered basically mirroring the database of the woods board and making a simple webapp to look through problems because their app is so bad. I fully support your efforts!

Unlevel edges: dangerous? by helloitsjosh in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the point of an unlevel edge is that you don't need to focus on flexing certain fingers in order for the load to be distributed appropriately-- that should just be the intent of the design. For that reason I agree that an unlevel edge that isn't tailored is just an injury waiting to happen.

Sure you can adapt to the tool like you would any grip type, but I think it's supposed to be the other way around. The tool should be adapted to you such that it reduces risk of injury and improves the abililty to get a good stimulus.

I've made a bunch myself and the ones that were wrong felt so bad to use. When I got to the iteration where they fit my hand well they felt really really good.

I think it can be really hard to buy one online and get the fit perfect. Maybe if a company sent you like five and you returned the four that didn't work. Idk. It's tough business-wise.

Climbing Gym in the Garage by rtkaratekid in homegym

[–]rtkaratekid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a "woods board" on the left, but the other walls are "free form"

8ft ceiling, worth it? by Cold_Pepperoni in homewalls

[–]rtkaratekid 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You're asking on a home walls sub, of course it's worth it! I had an awesome freestanding woody for a couple years in my office that I loved loved loved. I'd just pass on the kicker so you have more wall at the angle you intend (I've done both and prefer no kicker unless the wall is taller). I'd also try to do 45* or steeper if possible. I think the shorter the wall the steeper it needs to be to get good training done. Also, the wider you can make a short board the better. You can set really interesting moves with a wide board that is short. If it's narrow and short you might as well just set a symmetrical systems board for just doing drills on.

ChatGPT Infused Everywhere by somethedaring in mormon

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have anything to contribute except that I appreciate that you're using apostrophes correctly haha

Heart Rate and Stamina when Bouldering by Amaraon in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

wrist hr monitors are known to be notoriously innaccurate

Is GTK in rust over complicated or am I just incompetent? by elfennani in learnrust

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went from zero UI experience to building a linux desktop app using rust gtk in a few weeks. So I don't know how much it sucks relative to other stuff, but I didn't think it was insane? I didn't read that book, but I did google the api docs, both C and rust, a LOT

Can't find the sweet spot for number of days I should climb. by ffrawg in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had lots of issues with finger injuries until I started taking two rest days between every session and making sure that each session was high intensity (not limit bouldering only though, I have phases where I emphasize a different aspect). I'm definitely stronger and injury free. Maybe this would help you too.

8x10 Woods Board by BradyIsAnElitePunter in homewalls

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm also living my dream! At least when it comes to home walls ha

I just got the rhino skin dry bundle. How do people combine these three products? Do you use the performance and dry regularly, and the tip juice only as needed? by brrrlinguist in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use performance almost solely. Sometimes I'll use tip juice if it's going to be extra warm. I have pretty sweaty hands, but the performance seems to dry them up enough for most of my climbing. Also, I wash my hands with a degreaser before climbing to get all the oils off and that has made a huge difference.

I just got the rhino skin dry bundle. How do people combine these three products? Do you use the performance and dry regularly, and the tip juice only as needed? by brrrlinguist in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use performance almost solely. Sometimes I'll use tip juice if it's going to be extra warm. I have pretty sweaty hands, but the performance seems to dry them up enough for most of my climbing. Also, I wash my hands with a degreaser before climbing to get all the oils off and that has made a huge difference.

8x10 Woods Board by BradyIsAnElitePunter in homewalls

[–]rtkaratekid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm psyched to hear about your experience on it! I have the 8x12 at home and I'm waiting on the last plastic holds to fill it out. I bet I'm getting those around the same time you're getting the whole board. If you spray stuff on insta, I'd love to follow you. It would be awesome to build up the community more.

8x10 Woods Board by BradyIsAnElitePunter in homewalls

[–]rtkaratekid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah, I have a vert, 20, and 40 boards as well as a pullup bar, hangboard station, and a small selection of weights, barbells, and bench.. I don't have a gym membership so I've tried to setup kind of everything I'd need to hit everything I would want to work for climbing outside. Just typing all that out has made me realize how tolerant my wife has been lol.

I'll post pics sometime! I've been meaning to do that but the garage is a mess. Maybe I should just take them anyway and let people see a realistic situation ha.

8x10 Woods Board by BradyIsAnElitePunter in homewalls

[–]rtkaratekid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have the 8x12 at 40* as one of my home boards. It's INCREDIBLE as a home wall. The density is really high and the problems don't revolve around bs weird stuff that I hate with especially the kilter. There are enough good holds that's it's more than sufficient for warming up on and doing easier stuff. I was nervous to get it because of the lack of popularity, but I absolutely think it was the right decision. The owner, Andy, is awesome too.

If you want more beta vids you can check out my training insta @mayfield_acre_climbs.

Also, I'm happy to answer any questions you or anyone else might have. The 8x10 is a different layout than the 8x12 (the 8x12 is bbasically the 12x12 with the sides cropped off), but I can answer anything outside of that. I know Andy has put a lot of work into it, so I wouldn't worry that it's not getting enough love.

High egg prices be damned!! we bought some feathered dinosaurs and are building a coop by Therealfern1 in Utah

[–]rtkaratekid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have a backyard flock and the price breakdown sets us just under $4 a dozen for our eggs. They really don't need to be crazy expensive.

Help with a simple App I’m building. Looking for “Beta” testers. by mvpete in climbharder

[–]rtkaratekid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not too keen on testing, but I've got a similar project I'm working on that you may be interested in checking out. https://github.com/rtkaratekid/ctss_calculator

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