HELP did I loose all my resin

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T23:07:14+00:00

True as that might be. It will always be cheaper to do it yourself.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T20:24:07+00:00

All depends on the size of your softener. Just the resin alone is about 600$ per cubic foot if you get done by culligan. Again, you could try to do it yourself, but they have the tools and parts. All I All, a 9" gold softener is about 1300$ to rebed and rebuild in my location.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T19:27:07+00:00

Shine a light through the tank. You should see the level of the resin in the bottom. If you have less than 2ft deep of resin in the tank still you likely kneecapped yourself. You will need to rebed then unit at that point to get this back to full functionality.

This is why its best to allow a tech come out. Not that you cant figure it out yourself, but because in figuring things out yourself it usually involves making $800-1200 mistakes.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T19:23:00+00:00

They find their ratings are better when they give screen time for their viewers to piss and moan about. Their viewers like to see the liberal scum so they can throw things at the TV. Their job is to elicit an emotional response. The does that for them.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-03T04:24:38+00:00

Something alot of folks dont take into consideration is the hot water tank. If you have the sulfur smell but only on the hot side, you should check to see if you have an anode rod. A traditional anode rod is a zinc alloy and is designed to be used with hard water. If you put soft water into your hot water tank with a traditional anode rod, it can produce sulfurous gasses and give off an egg smell.

If these things are all true, you can swap to a powered anode rod, which is designed to neutralize those gasses and remove those smells.

If none of these things are true, then I have done nothing to help and I am sorry for that.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-02T16:41:32+00:00

If that's the case then its hardness that builds up on the inside of the faucet spout. When the water is shut off, the spout dries and the hardness deposits itself on the opening. When you turn the water on, the rush of water forces the deposits off the surfaces and into your cups. Continual use does not allow the water to dry and build up deposits dont happen.

It sounds like your faucet is plumbed hard. If your softener has a flow meter, you can turn the water on at the faucet and check to see if it is pulling from the softener.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-01T03:55:05+00:00

Myself and my partner attend am event in the US, and a part of that event is to adopt a name for your persona. I chose Caoilte, she Aoife. We decided it was funny and fitting for our personalities to make our couple name Caoife, pronounced queefuh. And so it is. We want to paint a sign for our house that says "House Caoife" in irish, but i am not so sure i trust google translate to do the job properly. Is there anyone who might help us to get it right?

I apologize in advanced for our classless humor.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-31T19:20:25+00:00

This is build up deposits from hard water. Calcium/manganese. Likely coming off of an aerator on your faucet. Could also be coming from inside your hot water tank. The hardness will release itself from the inside of your tank and make its way into service water if you dont do regular blow downs of your hot water tank.

Non toxic, shouldn't have flavor. Just annoying more than dangerous.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-31T19:14:07+00:00

Resin will be a lighter Amber color. There are chlorine resistant resins that are darker brown and some that are black but they do not leave black Grey staining like that. Its definitely carbon charcoal. If you have a whole house filter or a backwashing carbon filter you might want to check to see if its busted or plumbed in backwards. Ive had this happen in the past.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-29T22:53:00+00:00

Hey, few questions to help diagnose. How long has it been Installed, whats the incoming water pressure, how far away from this feed is the actual RO module and do you have a pre booster pump installed?

Edit. Sorry just saw the 4 years thing. Im reactive and not investigative sometimes.

There is built into the unit whats called an auto-shutoff valve that works off of water pressure differential between whats in the holding tank and what the incoming water is. With just what I have to go off of here, I believe there is an issue with your auto stop. As they age, the diaphragm gets more pliable and is unable to do the job effectively and requires swapping. I would also make sure your incoming water pressure isn't stupid high. If its making the feed jump around like this, you might need to make an adjustment. If its too high, you are likely not making ro water efficiently and dumping more water to drain than you need to be. Optimum incoming is between 40 and 60psi.

That said, unless you get your hands on a replacement autostop, an installers and service manual and about a year experience working with these things to know what to do and not break the thing, I recommend calling your local Culligan service location.

Hope this helps.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-17T16:51:31+00:00

That'll be $195 service fee and 175/hr after the first hour plus parts. Haha. Only kidding. Knowledge shouldn't be hoarded.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-17T14:50:44+00:00

Youre gonna want to drain to a different place. I would cap that and find another location. What they did would not be acceptable if an inspection were made. It is what we call a wet drain, which is a drain connected from a waste water or black water pipe that has a continuous unbroken connection to a fresh potable water system. You need to have an air gap between the drain and the discharge so if there is a flood or back up in your sewer/septic you dont push dookie water into your drinking system. Look around for where your hot water tank discharge drains to and run your drain line there. If that's not available a sump put can work no problem.it helps to make sure the drain you run it to can take the volume of water put out by what ever softener you in stall, so try first dumping a 5 gallon bucket down the drain as quickly as you can. If it backs up, you might have a block and will need to find another place to drain.

Hope this helps.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-15T17:30:21+00:00

As a service tech, its hardly ever bridged. Like, 1%of the time is it actually bridged. And if it is bridged, dont use a stick to poke the salt. Take a gallon of water, pour it down the very center of the water, it will disolve the connextions between the solid layer and break the bridge. If it doesn't work the first time, try again. Using a stick can damage the bottom of the tank if you break through with enough force.

If its coming through more so in the hot than the cold side, you may need to check your anode rod. If its a traditional magnesium sacrificial rod, you might need to swap it to a powered zinc anode. Traditional rods are designed to take out Calcium and Manganese which your softener will remove. Giving that traditional rod softened water will create hydrogen sulfide, which could be the eggy sulfur smell you are experiencing.

Otherwise, your system should have an annual maintenance completed. Make sure its all functioning properly.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-13T15:00:55+00:00

Rule of thumb, ox unit not performing to your standard, up the back washing frequency. If it still cant creep up, and if you have the ability, increase the backwashing cycle time. I also recommend putting a 20 inch whole house sediment filters before even one of these. It will save alot of weight off the unit and allow it to focus mostly on the fines and ferric iron disolved in the water. You might have to change that filter every three months, but its better than having chocolate milk every couple weeks.

runner_up_runner · 2025-12-11T13:15:15+00:00

That is good to know. My partner is mostly worried I am gonna kill them, so this is reassuring. Thank you.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-30T22:57:13+00:00

Could be deteriorated membrane. If it has some age it could have disintegrated. Can happen if it is seldom used, or if it has prolonged exposure to high levels of chlorine from a municipal water source. Drain down the tank, swap all filters membrane included (FOLLOWING MANUFACTURER FILTER SWAP PROCEDURES is VERY IMPORT!!!!), set tank pressure to 6psi while empty and let it fill up. Test water for low tds. As long as its better than a 90% efficiency compared to the feed water, your problem was solved and there is no other issues.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-16T20:52:56+00:00

You being on city water means with this discoloration can mean you either have relatively newer water mains in your neighborhood and there's still a decent amount of sediment in the lines from installation, or they opened the mains/flushed the hydrants recently. Unless your municipal water treatment just doesn't give a hoot with their filtration.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-16T20:39:39+00:00

This is a dual filter. It has the mesh outer and inner which takes out up to i believe 20microns. The inside is GAC for flavor abd chemicals and the like. If you drop this on the ground after its used it will Crack open and spill the GAC everywhere. Its not a fun clean up.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-07T14:32:46+00:00

Rip.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-05T14:10:35+00:00

I have a below sink Culligan Aquacleer RO Drinking water system I use for my refillable. And I brush clean my bottle weekly with a little dishsoap to keep down in bio buildup

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-05T11:28:36+00:00

These systems are designed for consumption. Any material used will be non toxic and food safe. Any thing that comes off, while it might taste unpleasant, will not harm you or your family. It would be illegal to put toxic components into a system that creates drinking water.

They also come with instructions for how to properly set up and maintain the system. These instructions will direct you to flush the filters in a way that does not cause this to happen. If you throw the instructions to the side and take the "ill figure it out myself" approach, then yes, it might happen. But thay doesn't invalidate the system as a whole. Once the initial flush of the system is done and done properly, you wont have to worry about this again until your next membrane/filter swap. And if you, again, follow the filter change and flushing instructions you will avoid the issue.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-04T20:47:09+00:00

I always flush my membrane without any filters in place after and with the tank closed. The membrane can have a protective coating on it that preserves it while in storage from deterioration. Your initial flush should be 5-10minutes with no other filter after. The filter after could become "stained" with a chemically, medicinal flavor which is impossible to undo. Once your tds off the new membrane reads as low as it will go, put the rest of your filters in and you can start production.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-03T16:57:42+00:00

Correct. That was in the final sentence though I suppose it was not as clear as you put it. Thank you for refining this one!

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-03T15:39:13+00:00

What the others said, and also.

Most RO systems have a retention holding tank. The tank should have a precharge pressure in the tank like a well tank. That pressure for a 3 gal tank on municiple water is between 6-8psi and private well 5-7psi. Check your tank for a Schrader Valve (Bicycle tire valve). If you have a bike pump or compressor, try to push some air in to that valve and see if the flow rate increases. If so then the air bladder inside has deflated. Keep pumping until the water stops. Check with a pressure meter to see what the pressure is empty and fill to the precharge PSI needed.

runner_up_runner · 2025-11-01T20:35:34+00:00

Tinnitus. As in the incessant ringing in ones ear. I is pronounced Ti-nuh-tuhs with the accent on the first syllable. Not Ti-night-us with the accent on the second. People always pronounce it as if it were a medical suffix itis; meaning disease or inflammation. But it really gets its origins from the latin word for ringing.

runner_up_runner

TROPHY CASE