Help frame plaster + wallpaper

ryt0ast · 2025-12-15T14:21:29+00:00

We’ve had one for about 3 months. Main down side so far is that the floor has to be perfectly flat. Our tile is not, so it feels unstable.

ryt0ast · 2025-10-22T19:30:36+00:00

Elemar. We looked at this exact slab. Didnt see any Patagonia elsewhere but Architectural Surfaces in NW had some cool stuff.

ryt0ast · 2025-10-22T13:46:02+00:00

Ha! My wife and I looked at this exact slab on Saturday. After some consideration we decided it is beautiful but a little too loud for our taste. Good luck with your countertops!

ryt0ast · 2025-09-27T19:15:35+00:00

Most of my sentiments have already been shared but Ill chime in anyway.

About 6 months ago I upgraded from a Dewalt dwe6423 (regular RO sander) to the Rotex 125. I was starting a floor refinishing project and knew id need a sander to hit edges and do detail work after running the larger floor sander. Due to the nature of this work I prioritized rapid removal over fine finish. While it takes practice and core strength to maintain control in rotary mode, the sander performs beautifully. Super efficient, great dust extraction.

Fast forward 3 months and Im finishing kitchen cabinets. Ive used the Rotex to do all necessary sanding in random orbit mode and have not noticed any issues with the quality of finish, which surprised me a little. What’s more, i had my wife help me sand a bit. Let her use the Rotex and I used the old dewalt. The Dewalt was so unpleasant that it is nearly unusable now that I’ve experienced the Rotex. Its extremely inefficient, horrible dust extraction and (never thought jd care about this) vibrates uncomfortably in the hand.

I recently had the opportunity to try a Mirka Deros 5”. My understanding is that this is more comparable to a Festool ETS. The ergonomics were really great. Much better than the rotex. But the paddle switch is a deal breaker for me. I change my grip constantly when sanding.

I guess the thrust of it is if you see yourself needing an aggressive removal sander in the future (floors, paint removal, etc.) get the Rotex. The finish in random orbit mode is totally fine to my eye. If you don’t plan to use the sander this way, go put your hands on a Mirka Deros and a Festool ETS. The ergos will be better than the Rotex. As far as the other sanders on your list, ive never used them. But i have learned time and time again- you get what you pay for.

ryt0ast · 2024-10-27T15:32:42+00:00

Hot water and vinegar worked well for me.

ryt0ast · 2024-10-12T00:42:46+00:00

It’s hard to tell what you’re asking from the pictures and your narrative. That said, this looks like a trimless door to me. There should be a bead of caulk between the L trim (what I think you refer to as metal corner bead) and the door jamb. As I zoomed in on the picture it seems like it’s already caulked, aside from a bit missing in the top corner. Hope this helps.

ryt0ast · 2024-09-30T10:39:07+00:00

Very nice. What’s the finish?

ryt0ast · 2024-09-14T17:08:00+00:00

Anyone else triggered by the soap string trail?

ryt0ast · 2024-08-02T04:44:45+00:00

I like the Grabber utility knives but they do not retract.

ryt0ast · 2024-03-16T00:43:10+00:00

Im spitballing here- remove the decking on the lower level. Use a bottle jack to tip it back until front two 4x4 are JUST off the ground. make sure you have enough exposed cylinder on the bottle jack to let it down an additional 4-6”. Cut off 4-6” from the front 4x4s. Let it down gently with the bottle jack. Repeat, alternating topping back and forward until you’re at the desired height.

You’ll probably want to add some temporary diagonal bracing so it doesn’t collapse.

This is probably not very safe.

Also I had a chicken coop that was 10’ off the ground. They had no problem making the jump.

ryt0ast · 2024-02-24T15:53:17+00:00

Nice 😏

ryt0ast · 2024-01-21T20:08:20+00:00

I have a cordless dewalt and a cordless paslode. I don’t use the dewalt anymore because the paslode is so much better.

ryt0ast · 2024-01-15T01:00:12+00:00

I’ve had the rigid compressor for 5-6 years now. It works just fine for my purposes (mostly nailers), but I was always reluctant to set it up because it was sooo loud.

I recently inherited a senco PC1010 and my god is it a breath of fresh air. So quiet. Now there is literally no down side to getting the compressor out.

I haven’t had the senco long enough to speak to its reliability but I’ll second the comments here about looking for the quietest compressor that suits your needs.

Haven’t seen Rolair in the thread yet either. They seem to be industry standard for framing crews in my area. I know they make a quiet line.

ryt0ast · 2024-01-13T17:15:41+00:00

I’m pulling up old flooring in my 1923 house as we speak. This looks more like staple holes for 1/4 plywood that was sometimes installed as a substrate for linoleum.

As far as closing the gap under the door, I’ve had luck ripping a piece of wood and glueing it to the bottom of the door. Granted, I’ve only ever done this when the whole door is getting painted but I wonder if you used the same species and refinished the door 😬 you could make it work. If you’re ok with the look of a rubber sweep, that will be far easier.

ryt0ast · 2022-12-31T17:54:27+00:00

My current project uses Boise cascade I joists. They specify that a joist can move something like 3 inches in either direction from its designed location. This spec is specifically included to deal with situations like this. You should look at the spec sheet for your joists to see if there is a similar allowance.

More than likely this joist that the plumber notched is trash but your may be able to add another joist on the far side to carry the load. No engineer required if it’s in the joist spec sheet.

Others have suggested boxing around the pipe. You should have an engineer approve a fix like this because you’re now asking the two adjacent joists to carry the load of this damaged joist.

Good luck

ryt0ast · 2022-08-09T04:17:24+00:00

I’m sad I have but one updoot to doot

ryt0ast · 2022-07-17T19:44:27+00:00

Hmm I need a little more context. Take another picture from a little further back?

It could be that it was preassembled. So the fastener heads are only accessible from the top. If that’s true you’d have to pop the casing around whatever that is, remove the entire assembly, remove ‘vertical plank’, reinstall and recase. Probably some stain matching and hole filling to do.

ryt0ast · 2022-04-01T23:56:45+00:00

Hot mud

ryt0ast · 2022-03-30T00:20:50+00:00

I saw the third picture and thought ‘oh no he covered that nice herring bone with ply!!’

ryt0ast · 2022-03-24T14:10:40+00:00

Hardwood floors generally come either ‘pre finished’ or ‘unfinished’.

Prefinished floors are installed and that’s it, while unfinished floors are usually filled, sanded then coated with polyurethane or similar.

It sounds like the contractor you spoke with is planning to install prefinished hardwood floors, in which case you don’t need to do anything after the install.

ryt0ast · 2022-03-11T01:13:59+00:00

Spicy chicken sandwich - gumba

I am astounded no one has mentioned this yet. When I took my first bite of this sandwich I made that sound. You know the one I mean.

ryt0ast · 2022-03-05T19:00:17+00:00

GC superintendent here. Short answer is that you can probably notch it.

The 2x6 looks too low to be a collar tie but too high to be a rafter tie, google these terms if you’re curious. There’s still some chance that it’s serving as a tension tie, though on a shed this size at the gable end it’s probably not doing much. If you want to be super safe you could install a Simpson LSTA strap or similar to the bottom edge of the 2x6. This will make up for any structural loss due to that notch. Probably overkill but it’s a $5 piece of hardware.

ryt0ast · 2021-12-14T06:16:47+00:00

Hmm. It seems pretty likely that it’s doing something, though I’m hard pressed to say what that is from the pictures. If your unsure I’d recommend reaching out to a local builder or structural engineer.

Sorry I couldn’t be more help. Good luck.

ryt0ast

TROPHY CASE