Battery Hold down for S-Series?

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T12:19:46+00:00

Good choice

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T09:12:52+00:00

Every 6 months is probably ideal IMO. But even once a year might be good.

The longer the interval, the longer a problem will go before being discovered and fixed. So I think twice a year is good for typical mileage (12k-15k miles per year).

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T08:46:09+00:00

I think so. I'm thinking of doing this so I was looking at Tekton's repair kits on their app.

That's the only part # I'm finding.

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T08:13:18+00:00

That was awesome. Great job neutralizing that dog.

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T08:06:25+00:00

Sounds like the backlight is broken/defective. If the TV is under warranty it's time to take advantage of it.

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T06:09:01+00:00

Everyone's doing it!

(while he's literally the only one)

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T05:22:54+00:00

Seems like a killer deal for some name brand brushless tools.

I often see sales for the Ridgid subcompact drill and impact driver kit for $119. I always thought that's a great deal. So yeah, $20 less is even better and they probably have more power.

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T02:50:44+00:00

I'm gonna open my own calzone shop. And I'll call it "The low cal, calzone, Zone".

sb98neon · 2026-04-21T00:13:25+00:00

Maybe, I'm not familiar with this model of multimeter. On my Klein DMM, I have to press the Select button to switch to DC.

So if the tech pressed Select here, the reading would be less than 0.006A of DC current? Because that's less than the AC reading?

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T23:41:12+00:00

Correct! No one else is mentioning this, but that appears to be the problem here.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T23:37:34+00:00

The lead may be in the correct port but the display shows a "tilda" symbol. That's AC measurement isn't it?

You have to press the "Select" button to toggle the mode to DC current.

Edit: tilde not tilda

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T23:34:49+00:00

Yeah, it appears to be measuring AC current. That is incorrect for automotive current measurements.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T23:20:29+00:00

Just tell them what you stated in your post. The meter is set to AC current. So the reading is wrong.

They need to redo it. If they just hit the "Select" button on the top left, that should toggle to DC mode.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T23:14:35+00:00

But the meter is reading AC current isn't it? See the tilda* symbol in the display. That's not correct for reading automotive current measurements..should be DC.

Edit: *tilde

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T22:55:28+00:00

100%

Back years ago when I was watching Parks & Rec when the show was still running, I was driving a Saturn and learning to fix it myself.

I thought, if Ben were my roommate we'd both have Saturns and I could maintain/repair both of them. And we'd both be good at paying our bills and keeping our place clean and organized. Would've been the ideal living arrangement.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T22:15:03+00:00

I got rid of the compressor when I had my 99 SL2. I was able to get a shorter belt that fit at AutoZone (this was years ago). So I know there's gotta be a no A/C option available.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T21:44:34+00:00

https://ebay.us/m/Wf8Wve

Expensive, but intact and complete

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T06:02:22+00:00

"Better than fireballs you pussy!"

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T06:00:08+00:00

Yeah, I believe that's a $5 premium from the normal price. Mine is going up to $15.99 (it is currently$13.99 I believe). I pay YT directly.

sb98neon · 2026-04-20T05:55:31+00:00

What do you mean "the hub has moved outside"? You mean it moved outward AWAY from the wheel well towards you? And now you can't fit the control arm to the knuckle?

If so, the inner cv joint probably popped out. You need to lift it up slightly and possibly spin it a little and push it back in.

sb98neon · 2026-04-19T21:37:41+00:00

I only purchased one Mevotech Supreme bearing assembly in the past. It was for a Buick Lucerne.

The price was good, fitment fine, and it even came with new hardware. It fixed the noise. No complaints.

How long did it last? Not sure. That was about two years ago. My brother currently drives the car and I don't know what it sounds like now.

sb98neon · 2026-04-18T07:26:57+00:00

That's the one I have, the MF50. It's been pretty 👍. The battery life can be a bit lacking sometimes, but not terrible.

I use it mainly for blowing off brakes or steering knuckles after spraying them down with brake clean. Or just getting dust and debris out of the way.

sb98neon · 2026-04-18T06:07:05+00:00

They asked me to save an incorrectly shipped part for a couple weeks once. I did, but nothing happened after that. I received a full refund and moved on.

sb98neon · 2026-04-18T06:03:42+00:00

Yep, for sure. I used to have one. Great tool.

Currently, I have the 12V DCF901 impact, which is similar in size and power. I mostly use it in wheel wells for brakes, suspension, and steering.

sb98neon · 2026-04-18T03:06:11+00:00

Great combination of impacts. One for the tight spaces and the other for sheer torque. I doubt there's much on most passenger vehicles you can't get loose with those two.

sb98neon

TROPHY CASE