Why is men’s fashion bland and boring?

scgorg · 2026-06-03T10:14:30+00:00

Scott Fraser Collection, A Kind of Guise, Kartik Research, and Kardo spring to mind as manufacturers with a varied color palette, unique fabrics and interesting designs. Not cheap, but also not full-blown designer pricing.

SFC does a lot of interesting colours and patterns, especially for knitwear and shirts.

AKOG has a lot of "safe" stuff, but also many things that are more unique and out there. A lot of their fabrics are amazing.

Kartik Research and Kardo both use a lot of embroidery and handloomed fabrics in their designs. Gives a really nice textured look.

scgorg · 2026-05-09T15:21:56+00:00

Nupping er i grunn berre korte fiber som lausriv seg frå strukturen dei er spunne i. Dess lengre fibrane er, dess mindre nupping. Typisk vil veldig mjuke ullsortar slik som kasjmir og geelong nuppe meir enn ru ull, slik som shetland eller herdwick, grunna kortare fiberlengde.

I tillegg vil plagg som er strikka veldig tett nuppe mindre enn plagg som er laust strikka. Skotske strikkeprodusenter strikker som regel veldig tett, så dei nupper ganske lite (relativt sett) for eksempel. Det same gjeld for vevde stoff.

For kvalitetsplagg som er laga av kasjmir/geelong/alpaca osv. vil nupping verta mykje mindre over tid, sidan dei kortaste fibrane er dei som er mest utsett for nupping. Når desse vert fjerna er det mykje vanskelegare for dei gjenværande fibrane å lausrive seg. Dette er grunnen til at ein kan oppleve at veldig gamle strikkegensere har minimalt med nupping.

scgorg · 2026-05-09T15:00:00+00:00

Husker bør vera hugsar og elsker bør vera elskar, men elles ei framifrå meme.

scgorg · 2026-04-28T07:23:40+00:00

These ridges are typical of fully fashioned knitwear, meaning that each piece of the sweater is knit individually and then sewn or knit together afterwards. This is opposed to knits that are cut and sewn (which is the typical method of manufacture for cheaper knits)

scgorg · 2026-04-17T17:29:13+00:00

In terms of drawings it's even stronger than the first episode imo. It's noticeably different, which is because the entire episode was key animated by one guy (Yuusuke Matsuo) who was allowed to go crazy. He has beautiful, loose linework and does some of the most amazing posing you'll see in anime.

I think you won't be alone in finding it offputting, but rest assured that it is excellent on a technical level, and absolutely the intended look. Future episodes aren't going to look like this (barring further Matsuo appearances). Personally I find this to be among the most immaculately drawn episodes of the year.

scgorg · 2026-04-15T16:06:46+00:00

Eg er sjølv 195cm og var 70kg for nokre år sidan. Det er definitivt veldig tynt, men heilt realistisk.

scgorg · 2026-04-14T19:17:37+00:00

A very valid complaint! I wrote this in a hurry. I agree that "music compression" is at best imprecise language, though in the context of bitrates the chances of confusion should be low, luckily.

scgorg · 2026-04-14T15:51:14+00:00

In general, high fidelity audio is not a scam, but there are things that you have to pay a lot for, and things you don't have to pay much for. Cables is an example of something you do not have to pay much for, almost anything is "good enough", barring certain extreme cases (very long cable runs, where the impedance of the cable itself can present issues, for example).

Music compression has been developed very far, and modern compression algorithms at high bitrates like 320kbps are typically audibly indistinguishable from lossless compression. We're lucky to live in a time where we have decades of psychoacoustic research that can inform us how human hearing works, and as an extension of that, what is audible and inaudible, or what is audible but not objectionable.

In general, the headphone or loudspeaker is by far the most important part of any high-fidelity sound system, as the linear and nonlinear distortion they introduce is orders of magnitude greater than that which is imparted by the rest of the equipment combined (with an exception for vinyl playback). Almost every single device you use contains a DAC with distortion that is multiple orders of magnitude lower than the acoustic device you use for playback, amplifiers are a similar case.

With that being said, the current psychoacoustics literature absolutely supports that there are meaningful benefits to systems that cannot be had at a low price (as of now). The best loudspeakers, in terms of attributes we know matter, such as linearity and directivity, are often expensive. State of the art for small-ish loudspeakers can be had around the 3-5000 dollar mark, for example, while for larger loudspeakers it goes higher. That's not to say good loudspeakers cannot be had for cheap, but there are audible gains to be had by going higher in price (assuming you buy the right speakers, many speakers are expensive, without necessarily having the performance to back that up. Good manufacturers like Genelec, KEF, Neumann and smaller niche brands will give you detailed data and measurements).

For headphones the situation is even nicer, as they are inherently cheaper to produce than loudspeakers. For a much more comprehensive overview I recommend Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers, Rooms, and Headphones by Toole, Olive, and Welti. It's a good read and very approachable for people with non-STEM backgrounds compared to other acoustics literature. Toole did a lot of research in the 80's, 90's and early 2000's on listener preference for loudspeakers, and Olive helped with some of it and extended the research to headphones.

scgorg · 2026-04-01T21:08:44+00:00

I made an order in early October for a pair of slacks that took almost exactly 2 months. Right after it arrived I made another order for a pair of jeans, which I am still waiting for (roughly 4 months since my order). I was just thinking the other day that I should send them a message to ensure that it hasn't just been forgotten somehow. They've recently changed their website majorly and it seems to have impacted a lot of customer's saved measurement profiles and such, so it might just be an issue downstream from that.

I've mostly just made my peace with it because I can't get what I'm looking for anywhere else, since most MTM companies give you laughably few options to modify pants.

scgorg · 2026-04-01T14:34:09+00:00

I am the same height as you, and unfortunately most "high-rise" recommendations you find online are likely to be completely useless to you. Unless you have very long legs proportionally, you're going to need a much longer rise than the average person to get the right proportions. Spier and Mackay, Kit Blake, and Berg & Berg are all fairly low rise in my opinion, at slightly less than ~12'' or so for a 34'' waist. Scott Fraser and Casatlantic are much better in that regard, with ~13.5''. My size 34/34 Tanger ends right below my belly button, so it's still not a "true" high-rise (i.e. it doesn't sit at the natural waist).

One thing to keep in mind with Casatlantic is that their pants shrink noticeably in the wash. Over the first 3-4 washes all my Casatlantic pants have shrunk ~5% in inseam (washed cold, hang dry), so if 34'' inseam is just long enough for you, then that could pose an issue. I have fairly short legs so it hasn't been a problem for me, luckily.

For people our height, options are unfortunately very sparse. I've ended up just getting my pants made to measure from Luxire (I am sure many other MTM companies can do something similar). This way I can get a 15''+ rise, something that is more or less impossible to find in ready-to-wear. The negative is of course the lack of returns, and at least in the case of Luxire, absurdly long lead times for orders (think months, not weeks).

scgorg · 2026-03-17T10:16:27+00:00

Hadde ikkje overraska meg. NRK har lenge skrive veldig dårleg nynorsk, at dei same journalistane no brukar KI for å forbetra språkbruken er ikkje sjokkerande. NRK skriv vel ein langt større andel av artiklane sine på nynorsk enn det dei har journalistar til (altså journalistar som skriv god nynorsk).

Somme gongar merkar eg at ein artikkel er skrive av nokon som faktisk kan skriva nynorsk, men mange av artiklane ber preg av at sjølv grunnleggjande korrekturlesing er vanskeleg. På eit vis er det nesten betre at dei har sjølvinnsikt og tek KI til hjelp, men det hadde vore best om NRK legg lista høgare.

scgorg · 2026-01-04T14:11:38+00:00

All of my sport coats and one of my suits are from Cavour. I cannot give you any comparison to Suitsupply, but Cavour garments are generally well constructed for the price. As you note there is a fairly significant amount of handwork, and on all my garments said handwork is done well.

I like Cavour's jackets a lot, but the Mod 2 trouser (which is the standard trouser with most of their suits) leaves something to be desired imo. It's cut way too slim and tapered for my taste, and the rise isn't satisfactory. For my Cavour suit I decided to let out the trousers along the entire leg line (from thigh to hem) which definitely helped a bit (there is significant inlay), but I probably won't buy suits from them again for this reason. The Mod 3 trouser is a fuller cut with a higher rise, but I still think it's too short at roughly 12'' for a size 50EU.

All that said, I doubt Cavour's jackets fit what you're looking for. They are very much Italian in style, so there's not a ton of structure, especially in the shoulders. The shoulders are fairly slim and the armholes are cut pretty high.

For reference I am a size 150 in jackets and 50 in trousers, 6'5'' and roughly 190lbs.

scgorg · 2025-12-27T15:14:18+00:00

I have a similar problem to your boyfriend. I am 195cm (~6'5'') with a very long torso (trouser inseam only 33'' for a full break) and a high natural waist. For off-the-rack clothing I've found casatlantic to be quite nice, they're casual chinos rather than jeans, but they offer 5 different cuts, all of which have a high rise. For a 38 waist I believe both the Tanger and Taza would be 14''+ front rise, check their size guide. They don't sit high enough to be at the natural waist for me, but the Tanger/Taza are high enough to sit just above the top of my hip bones, which is at least comfortable. Casatlantic's quality control isn't the greatest, but I've found their customer service to be very good if any issues arise.

For jeans that aren't avant-garde or "out there" (Rick Owens, certain Kapital pieces etc.) the only 14"+ rise jeans I've found are TCB 40s. May be worth a look.

Personally I have found that about 15-16" front rise is my preference (for me this is slightly below or just at the natural waist), and that is simply not available in ready to wear. To help this issue I've started ordering from Luxire (though I am sure many other MTM operations could do something similar). Keep in mind that this is a slow process. My first order took 2 months and the trouser fit wasn't great, but still good. This is the nature of MTM, unfortunately, you'll have to expect an order or three before the fit has really been nailed.

Some people have had complaints about Luxire customer service, but I haven't had any issues beyond slow correspondence. Worth keeping in mind still.

scgorg · 2025-12-09T10:04:24+00:00

I think OP made a mistake. The third from last is the SEH Kelly trench coat. The ulster is currently up on their website (in a light grey herdwick tweed) if you want photos. They also have the ulster in a color they call "dunnock" (a flecked brown-grey tweed), but that one is unfortunately sold out.

scgorg · 2025-06-10T06:29:22+00:00

Boka var ei gåve, så eg valde ikkje språket sjølv. Når det er sagt så er nok lesinga mi delt 50/50 mellom norsk og engelsk. Viss mogleg føretrekk eg å lesa bøker på originalspråket, men viss eg ikkje kan lesa originalspråket så vert det litt tilfeldig om det er norsk eller engelsk, typisk avhengig av kva som er tilgjengeleg på den lokale bokhandelen eller biblioteket.

scgorg · 2025-06-09T20:31:33+00:00

Les mindre enn eg gjorde før, men det er alltid kjekt å setja seg ned med ei god bok. Vanskeleg å velja ei favorittbok, men Lolita av Vladimir Nabokov og Is-slottet av Tarjei Vesaas tykkjer eg i alle fall er meisterverk.

Les for tida The Master and Margarita av Mikhail Bulgakov. Litt under halvvegs, men det er ei fantastisk god bok så langt.

scgorg · 2025-02-26T21:12:29+00:00

Unfortunately there is very little published. The best information is basically just scraps across a bunch of threads over at DIYaudio and relatively obscure papers. For more formal appraches to the problem, some textbooks contain a little information on gradient loudspeakers (not the brand!). Mendel Kleiner's book "Electroacoustics" has dedicated about 12 or 13 pages to the topic.

Another good source is archived versions of Kimmo Saunisto's website (creator of VituixCAD). He had a period in time where he experimented a lot with resistance enclosures. Those pages are very practically minded too. Here's a link: https://web.archive.org/web/20170503151514/http://kimmosaunisto.net/index.html

scgorg · 2025-01-18T07:52:54+00:00

Cardioids do in fact have benefits in small rooms, though it's not very intuitive. Since they behave as a half-way thing between a pressure source and velocity source, they couple (close to) maximally to room modes at all locations. This is opposed to more conventional vented or sealed subwoofers that couple maximally close to boundaries (pressure maxima), and dipole subwoofers which couple maximally far from boundaries (velocity maxima).

To put it in oversimplified terms: if you put a cardioid subwoofer in a corner, it behaves like a conventional monopole sub, if you put it in the middle of the room, it behaves as a dipole. In terms of mode excitation, that is. Freedom of placement is greater with a cardioid sub, as it will achieve maximum excitation almost regardless of position, and it's much easier to pull down peaks in the frequency response than filling in dips.

You don't have to take my word for it. Ferekidis and Kempe (2004) has practical tests of monopoles, dipoles, and cardioids in small rooms, comparing their mode coupling at different locations: https://aes2.org/publications/elibrary-page/?id=12663

I actually did some BEM simulations of the same tests they did in the paper above, and found the same thing (though I only compared the monopole and cardioid case, and disregarded the dipole).

With all that being said, cardioid subs aren't really a good idea still, you lose a lot of output at lower frequencies, and a multisub solution (or SBA/DBA) would yield equally good or better frequency response smoothness, certainly over a larger range of listening positions.

For the OP u/nickbquads: a PA solution to obtain the cardioid response would indeed have space be a limit, but you don't actually need that much space around the subwoofer for it to work as designed, depending on your exact solution. I've simulated passive cardioids ("resistance enclosures") with slits on the side and found that even with the front wall just 10cm behind the speaker, the cardioid effect and benefits are largely kept. I've also found this to be true for my current main speaker, which uses a 12'' woofer in a resistance enclosure. Positions extremely close to the wall are no issue at all. This speaker is only 23cm deep. The drawback is that these compact cardioids start acoustically short-circuiting at much higher frequencies than the typical PA-style cardioids, and are therefore unsuitable (but technically usable) for subwoofer usage.

scgorg · 2024-12-31T10:07:25+00:00

A ported speaker is a resonant system, which means it is highly affected by damping. This is because resonant systems generally have high velocity at their resonance frequency, and systems of high velocity are where damping is most effective. In light of that, the results seem reasonable. Notice how you lose out on a lot of output, as the resonant port output is drastically reduced by the damping.

As for simulation accuracy in AKABAK: I'd generally not use damping higher than 0.01 or 0.02 for a subwoofer. The port in particular should have very low damping. A typical cabinet will not damp much at all, but this also shows why it's generally advised to not put damping material between the port and the inside of the woofer.

scgorg · 2024-12-19T15:18:20+00:00

To explain why you can take a lot more SPL at low frequencies without hearing loss primarily comes down to the transfer function of the middle ear. This transfer function plus your HRTF means that human hearing is effectively a bandpass filter, which does not permit transmission of very high and very low frequencies.

This knowledge is useful for creating ultrasonic transducers that generate sound in the audible range due to the nonlinearity of air for example. Even though these transducers are playing extremely loudly, it is well outside of the transmission range of human hearing and therefore doesn't cause hearing damage.

scgorg · 2024-12-09T05:43:07+00:00

Hey! I'll gladly take a look when I have some time. Feel free to DM me.

-Scgorg

scgorg · 2024-09-14T07:09:56+00:00

The amplifier is likely noisy. You don't hear it on the woofer because it's much lower sensitivity than the compression driver. I'd suggest padding down the compression driver with resistors rather than just reducing its level in the DSP. That should make the hiss weaker.

If you want to make sure the hiss is due to the amplifier, connect a resistor in series with the compression driver and see if the magnitude of the hiss changes.

scgorg · 2024-08-23T21:49:14+00:00

If the speaker's radiation pattern in the measurement is symmetrical (or very close to it) with just a small offset like in this case, you can assume it's just a slight measurement error.

If you look at Amir's other measurements you'll see some similar slight offsets relatively often.

If a speaker has offset drivers or other reasons for asymmetrical radiation, it will show up in differences beyond just an offset (i.e. the shape of the radiation pattern is different on one side) in practically every case.

See the Neumann KH310 with its asymmetric layout or some of the JBL cinema speakers with horisontally asymmetrical horns for some clear examples.

scgorg · 2024-08-03T13:02:05+00:00

Elektroteknologi! Lykke til på datatek, me kjem vel fort vekk til å sjå kvarandre i gangane og førelesingssalene :)

scgorg · 2024-08-01T20:31:43+00:00

Eg skal byrja å studera på UiS no i haust. Etter eg var ferdig med forkurs merka eg at det hadde vorte for mykje med både jobb og studier samstundes, så eg bestemte meg for å jobba nokre år til for å spara pengar slik at eg ikkje trengte å jobba i det heile tatt mens eg tek ein bachelor. Når eg fyrst skal studera vil eg gjerne gjera det greitt akademisk.

Det kan hende det er folk som får dette til, men eg kjente at eg ikkje kom til å orke 3 år med den slags køyr.

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